Seattle’s Chihuly Garden and Glass

I love to find the beauty in everyday objects.
 – Dale Chihuly, American glass sculptor

A boat filled with glass globes against a black backdrop.

A boat filled with glass globes against a black backdrop.

Last Saturday, when we were purchasing our tickets for the Space Needle, a package deal was also offered for the Space Needle and the Chihuly Garden & Glass (305 Harrison Street, Seattle, 206.753.4940). Without thinking, we went ahead and got tickets for both venues, which are next door to each other. When I asked our friend John who Chihuly was, he stopped in his tracks and said, in an incredulous tone of voice, “You’ve never heard of Chihuly?” Um, no, but I’m always up for learning about people I’ve never heard of. I was all ears.

An Education on Dale Chihuly
Dale Chihuly was born in Tacoma in 1941 and graduated in 1965 from the University of Washington with a degree in interior design. While at school, he had to take a weaving class as a requirement and decided to weave bits of glass into a tapestry, which spawned his interest in glass and led him to build a studio in south Seattle. One night he melted glass between bricks in an oven and blew it into a bubble, and from that moment on, Chihuly said he wanted to be a glass blower.

Suspended sea sculpture.

Suspended sea sculpture.

He went on to the University of Wisconsin, enrolling in the country’s first glass program, and afterwards went to the Rhode Island School of Design (RISD). In 1968, on a Fulbright Scholarship, he worked in a glass factory in Venice and then returned to found a glass program at RISD. “I like to work on a team and that’s how they work in Venice,” he said in an interview, which I found on YouTube. “I saw how important teamwork was to glass blowing, and that’s the way I taught glass blowing at Rhode Island.”

Close-up of the sea sculpture.

Close-up of the sea sculpture.

He elevated glass as a fine art after he and a couple of his friends cofounded the Pilchuck Glass School at Washington State in 1971. Whereas at the time Seattle had few glass blowers, now the city boasts more glass artists and glassblowers than any place in the world, according to Chihuly. In 1980, when sales from his galleries exceeded his income as a professor at RISD, he quit teaching and returned to Seattle, where he said he’s been ever since. Chihuly rarely blows glass himself, which is a result of having gone blind in his left eye from an automobile accident in England in 1976. Having lost peripheral vision and depth perception, he relied on team members to blow the glass. By not being the head glass blower and not having to focus on finishing the piece at hand, he’s been able to enjoy watching his team and participating in the entire experience. Some teams numbered as high as 18, though he had more than 100 artists and craftsmen working to produce his visions.

Filaments and drops of glass and light.

Filaments and drops of glass and light.

Chihuly has many well-known works of art, but at a certain point he began to expand into doing large architectural installations and commissions for residences, hotels, and casinos around the world, including Venice, Dubai, London, and Jerusalem. His garden series has been exhibited in London, New York, and Chicago., among other cities He has done about 15 to 20 different series of works in the span of 40 years. His glass baskets series, for example, was inspired by his collection of Native American woven baskets, but his series of seashells began as a result of a piece that unintentionally turned out looking like a seashell.

Glass rods and what looks like eggplant bubble up from the earth.

Glass rods and what looks like eggplant bubble up from the earth.

Chihuly is no longer actively blowing glass. Instead, he has devoted his time to painting. The Chihuly Garden & Glass includes his paintings, as well. “I want to have a good time,” he said, of painting. “And then I want to work. Hopefully, if I work for two or three hours, I might come up with something I haven’t drawn before. A lot of it is just working. If you’re doing it, things just happen. It should feel good while you’re doing it. If it starts to feel like work, then I’ll stop.”

Standing beside a glass yucca tree in the garden.

Standing beside a glass yucca tree in the garden.

Amazing exhibition hall, glasshouse, and garden
I didn’t have any expectations going into the Exhibition Hall, which is the best state to be in when you’re going to view an exhibit or see a movie or attend a concert. His work is pretty astonishing, and they are expertly lit and properly displayed against lacquered black walls and floors. The colors are deep and rich, and the patterns intricate. The shapes are the result of amazing control. He could not have achieved these works without a big and talented team. I recommend this exhibit, especially the Glasshouse, a 40-foot-tall, 4,500-square-foot structure made of glass and steel, which houses Chihuly’s 100-foot-long suspended sculpture resembling flowers in reds, yellows, oranges, and amber. The Glasshouse is where I’d want to have a grand party. The Garden exhibit is equally enjoyable, with glass plants and flowers mingling with live flora.

The suspended 100-foot-long glass structure hangs inside the glasshouse. The Space Needle is to the left.

The suspended 100-foot-long glass structure hangs inside the Glasshouse. The Space Needle is to the left.

Afterwards, we ate a late lunch at the Collections Café, which is part of the exhibition hall. The menu offers fresh and local ingredients and food that is inspired by Chihuly’s travels. The restaurant is a long rectangular shape, with 36 of his large drawings backlit on the wall facing the wall of windows. I got a kick out of the shadow box tables that displayed Chihuly’s collections of vintage and antique wares, including cameras, radios, wind-up tin toys, mercury glass, Christmas ornaments, and shaving brushes, among other old items. Tall shelves house carnival chalkware, and suspended above the ceiling were more than 80 accordions. What a great concept and way to display and share his collections. This vintage lover certainly appreciated it.

From the Chihuly Bookstore, a 1914 globe pocket watch with optical lens and skeleton key (Corter, handmade in New England).

From the Chihuly Bookstore, a 1914 globe pocket watch with optical lens and skeleton key (Corter, handmade in New England).

Café tables display Chihuly's vintage and antique collections.

Café tables display Chihuly’s vintage and antique collections.

Accordions are suspended from the Collections Café ceiling.

Accordions are suspended from the Collections Café ceiling.

The Space Needle, seemingly intertwined with the glass structure, viewed from inside the warm Glasshouse.

The Space Needle, seemingly intertwined with the glass structure, viewed from inside the warm Glasshouse.

Exploring Seattle’s Space Needle and Pike Place Market

In wisdom gathered over time, I have found that every experience is a form of exploration.
– Ansel Adams, American photographer and environmentalist

From Austin, I was supposed to head to Los Angeles and then Seattle on my five-city business trip, but I didn’t end up going to the last two destinations because of rescheduling issues. Still, since David and the kids were slated to join me this past weekend, we decided to stick with our original travel plans, and we flew just for the weekend to visit with good friends of ours, John and Kris. John and David have been friends since nursery school, and John was one of the groomsmen at our wedding. It’s a testament to their enduring friendship, though we haven’t seen them in two years and it’s been several years since we have traveled to the Pacific Northwest to visit them.

I’ve been to Seattle seven times. When I was on assignment in Seattle and Portland to cover an article on venture capitalism (VC) in the Pacific Northwest many years ago, I was able to conduct research on my novel. My father, his cousins, and many of his fellow compatriots traveled by steamship from Manila and entered the United States at the Port of Seattle. If the Filipinos didn’t have relatives already in the States to pick them up, most of them stayed in hotels in the International District, home of the citySeattle’s Chinatown, only to be conned by foremen into signing away their lives to migrant farm work. After my VC interviews, I was lucky enough to be in that area of town and found a couple of the infamous hotels where the men were given room until they were carted off to various parts of the country to pick whatever fruit or vegetable that was currently in harvest.

My view of the Space Needle through a web of tree branches.

My view of the Space Needle through a web of tree branches.

Atop the Space Needle
In all the times I’ve been to Seattle, I’ve never been to the Space Needle (400 Broad Street, 206.905.2111). It’s something you do, though, when you have kids, and after the fact, I’m glad that we went. I knew that it was built for the 1962 World’s Fair and celebrated the young city’s vision for its and the country’s future in space exploration, but that’s pretty much the extent of my knowledge of the iconic symbol of Seattle.

Of course, once there, I learned more. The theme of the World’s Fair was Century 21. This was the time of the Cold War, and the U.S. was in a race with the Soviet Union to determine who would dominate the space program. President Kennedy was supposed to attend the closing ceremony on October 21, 1962, but canceled due to a “cold,” which later turned out to be a cover for his having to handle the Cuban Missile Crisis.

A view of downtown Seattle from the Space Needle.

A view of downtown Seattle from the Space Needle.

After several attempts at finding the right centerpiece that would define the city long after the event was over – in the same way the Eiffel Tower did for Paris after the 1889 World’s Fair – Edward Carlson, president of Western International Hotels and chairman of the fair, found inspiration in the Stuttgart Tower in Germany. Several architects and versions of drawings later, as a result of trying to make the model structurally sound, the Space Needle’s current form came to be. Finding a location and financing – at a cost of $4.5 million – became the next obstacles. Both were obtained, and the Space Needle was constructed in just 13 months – just in time for the opening of the World’s Fair.

Every day nearly 20,000 people took the elevator to the top of the Space Needle, for a total of 2.3 million visitors for the duration of the fair. The Space Needle paid for itself in short order, and continues to be Seattle’s number one attraction. It takes 41 seconds to reach the top via the elevator, and your stomach definitely drops during both the ascent and descent. The 360-degree view of the city is wonderful. While we didn’t go to any of the other venues in the area such as the Pacific Science Center and the Experience Music Project (though we did go to the Chihuly Garden, which I’ll highlight in Wednesday’s blog entry), you could easily spend a day in the area.

Wandering around Pike Place Market at night.

Wandering around Pike Place Market at night.

Wandering through Pike Place Market
After a late lunch, we headed over to Pike Place Market, which has always been a destination every time I’ve come to Seattle. I enjoy walking up and down the stalls, sampling the jellies and other goodies and admiring the various goods crafted by local artisans. We also returned in the morning after Sunday brunch and were entertained by two street musicians, Whitney Monge and Morrison Boomer, whom we really enjoyed. Monge has a soulful voice, and the band had a kick to their music.

Kicking it up a notch with street band Morrison Boomer.

Kicking it up a notch with street band Morrison Boomer.

We picked up a salve that is supposed to clear up eczema, which my daughter has, and skin irritation, which David has, so we’ll see if the product by the Fay Farm – “handcrafted natural body products” – works (913 Tomchuck Lane, Greenbak, WA 98253, 360.222.3036, soapmaker@thefayfarm.com). Claudia Rice Kelly (Claudia Kelly’s Collection, 1916 Pike Place #12-341, Studio 253.941.2665) made some beautiful scarves, bow ties, and velvet jackets made of silk and velvet. Micks Peppourri (P.O. Box 8324, Yakima, WA 98908, 800.204.5679) had an overwhelming number of tasty pepper jellies, namely lime, pomegranate, and the cabernet. David and the kids went crazy over the Woodring Northwest Specialties spicy pickles and pepper and specialty jellies.

Admiring the scarves while being chatted up by the scarf lady.

Admiring the scarves while being chatted up by the scarf lady.

As usual, the weekend was too short, but John and Kris let us know there is plenty more to Seattle we’ve yet to see, including the Boeing Museum. So that just means we have to come back, which is always a good reason to me.

Drawn to an Art Nouveau-style scarf that had different colors on either side.

Drawn to an Art Nouveau-style scarf that had different colors on either side.

One thing I’ve embraced is that wherever I go, especially if I’ve been there before, I want to find something new to see, appreciate, and learn about. Whether it’s a vintage shop or a historical landmark or a novel destination – a hidden gem – suggested by a local or a visitor, find something new. It makes the usual special again and our world ever more expansive.

Seafood does not get any fresher than this at Pike Place Market.

Seafood does not get any fresher than this at Pike Place Market.

In search of Sunday brunch at Pike Place Market.

In search of Sunday brunch at Pike Place Market.

Transitions and Transformations: Carmela Rose Designs

Simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance.
– Coco Chanel, French fashion designer

Jewelry designer Carmela Rose.

Jewelry designer Carmela Rose.

Carmela Rose grew up in a farming commune in the small town of Summertown, Tennessee, where its school emphasized the arts, including painting and pottery. When she was eight years old, she got hooked on Native American weaving and beading. One day, Carmela and her friend made earrings out of seashells that were part of her older sister’s crafting supplies. When someone suggested that the two girls sell the earrings, they pinned them to a board, went door to door, and sold nearly all of their creations. Thus were the beginnings of the designer and businesswoman behind Carmela Rose Designs.

Taking a leap of faith
Fast forward to 2005 when Carmela moved to the Bay Area after leaving her job as bead store manager in Sacramento and being hired in a jewelry department of a downtown San Francisco department store. When she was undergoing training, she realized that there was a conflict between her day job and her three-year-old, part-time jewelry business. During this time, Carmela had registered for the Los Angeles Gift Show, whose entrance fee was nonrefundable. “If there was a time to take that leap of faith, that was it,” she recalled. She had some savings set aside and already had clients who were selling her jewelry in their Bay Area shops. Ultimately, the demand for her jewelry fueled her decision to become a full-time jewelry designer, and the financial cushion helped with the transition.

A mixture of opalite, Swarovski crystal, quartz crystal, smoky quartz, and sterling silver.

A mixture of opalite, Swarovski crystal, quartz crystal, smoky quartz, and sterling silver.

Carmela built up her early business doing guerilla marketing, “hitting the pavement” to show her jewelry and distributing printouts and business cards when she had the money, as well as having her website built to draw business. Sometimes she would call stores ahead of time; other times, she would get up early in the morning, drive to a location with a good shopping district, and select stores with a good fit. Carmela looked for stores that had a good location and whose products were aligned with her jewelry’s aesthetics. She works with sterling silver and gold-filled metals, so she looked for stores that didn’t sell jewelry with plated metals or faux finishes, but rather focused on stores that specialized in natural fibers and simple, elegant, and classic styles. “Sometimes I would get really lucky and the buyer would be there and take the time to look and buy on the spot,” she said. While it doesn’t happen as often as it used to, at the time the economy was growing.

The first pieces of my collection from 2005: chalcedony, peridot, freshwater pearls, and sterling silver (left and middle) and labradorite, freshwater pearls, glass seed beads, and sterling silver (right).

The first pieces of my collection from 2005: chalcedony, peridot, freshwater pearls, and sterling silver (left and middle) and labradorite, freshwater pearls, glass seed beads, and sterling silver (right).

While the economy has picked up in the last year, Carmela still does guerilla marketing. “It’s not something I’ll ever stop doing,” she said. She also participates in approximately five trade shows annually, including the San Francisco gift show, which is smaller than the Los Angeles gift show, an apparel show, and the sample sale trade show that takes place in October in San Francisco.

Vintage Carmela Rose: vintage sterling silver, tourmaline, and Czech glass (left) and vintage lampwork glass, freshwater pearls, and glass with a gold vermeil clasp.

Vintage Carmela Rose: vintage sterling silver, tourmaline, and Czech glass (left) and vintage lampwork glass, freshwater pearls, and glass with a gold vermeil clasp (right).

Back in 2005, Carmela met Jen Komaromi of Jenny K in El Cerrito at the sample sale trade show. “At trade shows, you sometimes instantly click with a buyer,” she said, of their meeting. “They look at your stuff and instantly know they can sell it. I got the sense that I could trust her. We had this instant ability to communicate. I felt comfortable enough to push her to buy two pairs of earrings.” And that’s when Jenny K began selling Carmela Rose jewelry, and that’s when I began my Carmela Rose collection.

A mix of labradorite and agate earrings, along with vintage favorites: vintage plastic flowers, aqua quartz, and sterling silver and vintage burnt yellow Lucite, Swarovski crystal, and sterling silver.

A mix of labradorite and agate earrings, along with vintage favorites: vintage plastic flowers, aqua quartz, and sterling silver, and vintage burnt yellow Lucite, Swarovski crystal, and sterling silver.

Relying on valuable marketing skills, overcoming challenges
Carmela gained valuable experience managing and marketing in her previous job at the bead store, and had already worked in many trade shows by then, traveling and meeting different buyers. “It gave me the skills and confidence to put my own larger creative goals into motion, because I’d been a part of that whole experience,” she said. “I was already skilled at marketing other people’s creativity and the ideas and personae of other designers more than my own.”

Vintage brass, tokens, garnet, Swarovski crystal, and 14k gold-filled hooks.

Vintage brass, tokens, garnet, Swarovski crystal, and 14k gold-filled hooks.

Marketing is the broadest challenge from day to day, and responding to customers’ needs is critical, according to Carmela. “You have to find new ways to do things and spend the time and energy to market,” she said. Figuring out how to measure one’s success is a skill that is also needed on a daily basis. “You have to assess whether something is working or not, and that’s often hard to do if it’s something that you’re passionate about; it’s hard for a lot of designers,” she noted.

Vintage Lucite, vintage Swarovski crystal, and sterling silver earrings, surrounded by andalusite, 22k gold vermeil leaf, and 14k gold-filled hooks (left) and citrine, brass leaves, and 14k gold-filled hooks.

Vintage Lucite, vintage Swarovski crystal, and sterling silver earrings (middle), surrounded by andalusite, 22k gold vermeil leaf, and 14k gold-filled hooks (left) and citrine, brass leaves, and 14k gold-filled hooks (right).

Carmela weathered the economic recession, thanks to a few loyal clients. New shops and new interest in her jewelry opened up last year, at the same time she was contemplating starting a family. “It worked out really well – having a home business and having a baby,” she said. “That’s my new direction. Things are looking really positive again.” While business not as booming as it was in 2005 and 2006, Carmela feels that she is moving in the right direction. “The most pleasant surprise is how supportive people can be, and all the wonderful people I’ve gotten to know – whether collectors, colleagues, clients or friends over the year,” she said. “Knowing some amazing and inspiring people have helped me get through the tough times.”

One of my favorite statement earrings, which give off an Art Deco vibe: Vintage Lucite, garnet, and 14k gold-filled hooks.

One of my favorite statement earrings, which give off an Art Deco vibe: vintage Lucite, garnet, and 14k gold-filled hooks.

The joys of designing jewelry
Carmela enjoys the freedom of being able to create something tangible out of a flow of ideas over any given time, and then releasing it to make room for the next creation. “And then to make a living out of it is unbelievable,” she said, with a quiet sense of awe. When pressed to name favorite pieces that she’s made over the years, Carmela is hesitant. She has cataloged everything she’s made, and while there are many pieces that she has enjoyed designing, her philosophy is to create something and set it free in order to make room for new pieces. “I’ve always felt that holding on too tightly to something would hold me back creatively,” she explained.

This necklace is one of my favorite Carmela Rose pieces: vintage sterling silver pieces mixed with oxidized sterling silver and Swarovski crystals.

This necklace is one of my favorite Carmela Rose pieces: vintage sterling silver pieces mixed with oxidized sterling silver and Swarovski crystals.

Having been in business, both part-time and full-time, for a decade now and coming out of the recession stronger and assured, Carmela knows a thing or two about designing jewelry and making a business out of it. The ability to form and maintain sound partnerships is the most important trait to staying in business, she said. Ultimately, at the end of the day, she advises aspiring designers to “be true to yourself but also make it your goal to make really good products that other people enjoy.”

Post Script: Rave review
As you can see, I’m one of those Carmela Rose collectors. One of the things I’ve appreciated through the years is watching Carmela’s style and designs evolve and change, from the freshwater pearls, glass beads, and labradorite pieces to the vintage lampwork beads pieces, to the vintage metals. From delicate to statement to delicate. Simple to elaborate to simple. I have a very soft spot for the earlier statement pieces, as well as the reclaimed vintage jewelry. If I’ve converted you with my collection, check out Carmela’s jewelry at Jenny K’s (6927 Stockton Avenue, El Cerrito, 510.528.5350), where she usually has trunk shows during the holidays and special events such as Mother’s Day and Valentine’s Day, which happens to be next week!

Early Carmela Rose pieces: Ruby quartz and glass with gold vermeil clasp (left) and carnelian, garnet, serpentine, glass, and 14k gold-filled (right).

Early Carmela Rose pieces: ruby quartz and glass with gold vermeil clasp (left) and carnelian, garnet, serpentine, glass, and 14k gold-filled (right).

Austin’s Sunday bluegrass brunch and the LBJ Library and Museum

It is the excitement of becoming – always becoming, trying, probing, falling, resting, and trying again – but always trying and always gaining . . .
– Lyndon Baines Johnson, 36th U.S. President, Inaugural Address, January 20, 1965

Threadgill's West Riverside Drive location did not have the Sunday gospel brunch today.

Threadgill’s West Riverside Drive location did not have the Sunday gospel brunch today.

An Austin bluegrass brunch to remember
Thanks to a recommendation from Irene Koch at BHIX, we set our sights on the Sunday gospel brunch at Threadgill’s (301 W. Riverside Drive, Austin, 512.472.9304). We arrived early, secured a corner booth, and enjoyed our Southern breakfast, but it turned out that the choir thought there wasn’t a performance today (perhaps because it was Super Bowl Sunday?) and wasn’t going to show up. Thinking quickly, we decided to hot-foot it to the other Threadgill’s location (6416 N. Lamar – Austin, 512.451.5440) and arrived a half-hour after the bluegrass performance began.

The Sunday bluegrass brunch was a go at the Threadgill's North Lamar location!

The Sunday bluegrass brunch was a go at Threadgill’s North Lamar location!

Though I would have loved to have waved and clapped my hands to a soul-stirring gospel performance, I am very glad we heard Out of the Blue, a trio comprising Jamie Stubblefield on guitar, Ginger Evans on bass, and Rob Lifford on mandolin. What a treat! We heard traditional bluegrass, as well as their renditions of Bob Dylan and the Beatles’ “My Life.” The best song was the lively one that, of course, I didn’t record. It’s called “The Hangman’s Reel,” and required a lot of flying fingers on the strings. I really love the sound of the mandolin, though I am fond of the guitar and the bass, as well. All three were terrific on their respective instruments. I was hoping to link to one of their songs, but the size of the files were too large. Definitely check out their site to hear their music.

Local bluegrass trio Out of the Blue making beautiful music.

Local bluegrass trio Out of the Blue making beautiful music.

Here’s an interesting piece of local history: Kenneth Threadgill, a country singer and tavern owner, opened his gas station at the Austin city limits in 1933 and sold gas, food, and beer – when the Prohibition law was repealed. In fact, he was the first one in the state to get a liquor license post-Prohibition. He transformed the gas station into a tavern that featured live entertainment. After the war, Threadgill and his Hootenanny Hoots played to packed houses, which included local college students who also performed on stage. One such University of Texas student was Janis Joplin, who became good friends with the Threadgills and sang at his venue. While some credit Threadgill’s for starting her career, the modest Threadgill said that she “started herself” at his place. Austin is known for its musical roots, and we were lucky to get a taste of local bluegrass.

The Living-large legacy of LBJ
After brunch, we went to the Lyndon Baines Johnson Library and Museum (2313 Red River Street, Austin, 512.721.0200, donation of $8 for adults), which is on the grounds of the University of Texas. The museum covers three expansive floors, and his archives alone house 45 million pages of documents, photographs, video, and audio files, which are the raw materials documenting his life and times.

The Lyndon Baines Johnson Library and Museum is an enormous building on the campus of the University of Texas at Austin.

The Lyndon Baines Johnson Library and Museum is an enormous building on the campus of the University of Texas at Austin.

While LBJ is known to many of my contemporaries as the President who was mired in the Vietnam War, it should be mandatory for all school children to visit this museum and see just how much LBJ transformed America and continues to influence all of us to this day as a result of his Great Society vision and legislation. It’s staggering to catalog the many groundbreaking pieces of legislation he pushed through Congress, but you know me, I have to give it a go.

Landmark legislation
I was familiar with the bigger pieces of legislation, namely the 1964 Civil Rights Act that ended segregation, the 1965 Voting Rights Act that eliminated poll taxes that African-Americans had to pay to vote and deliberately confusing literacy tests they were subjected to before they could vote, and finally the Civil Rights Act of 1968. I was also familiar with his Economic Opportunity Act, which was the centerpiece of LBJ’s War on Poverty and signed into law in 1964. The act created several social programs in the areas of education, healthcare, and the general welfare of those people in the lower-economic class. Head Start and Job Corps are two of the few remaining programs. I remember the now-defunct Volunteers in Service to America (VISTA) program when I was growing up, and much admired its work, along with Kennedy’s Peace Corps.

The LBJ Library and Museum face an expansive courtyard.

The LBJ Library and Museum faces an expansive courtyard.

In 1963, JBJ signed the Clean Air Act, which was established to combat air pollution and the first of many acts to protect the environment. LBJ was the first President to sign into law clean air and water quality legislation, and he went on to sign laws for pesticide control, water resource planning, solid waste disposal, highway beautification, air quality, and water and sanitation systems in rural areas, among other areas. The Water Quality Act combatted water pollution by seeking higher water quality standards, and the Wilderness Act formalized the process of designating wilderness areas for protection.

In 1965, he signed the Immigration and Nationality Act, which allowed immigrants of color – not just immigrants of European descent – to come into America. The Social Security Amendment in 1965 created Medicare and Medicaid. While the system needs an overhaul today, it remains, in my opinion, a critical safety net for older Americans, and indeed, for us all. I for one can say that without Medicare my sisters and I would have had to borrow money out of our homes to pay for the seven-plus total weeks that our mother was in the ICU and then an acute-care facility. Our mother was a hard worker, paid into her pension and Social Security, saved a lot of money, and even took out secondary health insurance, but there was no way she could have paid for those last weeks of her life.

LBJ also passed the Elementary and Secondary Education Act, and the Higher Education Act, which provided financial assistance for low-income families. The latter act provided Pell Grants, which my sisters and I received – and put to good use. The Heart Disease Care and Cancer and Stroke amendment to the Public Health Service Act and the Cigarette Labeling and Advertisement Act paved the way for research of diseases caused by tobacco use and awareness about the dangers of smoking.

The staircase from the 3rd floor to the 4th floor gives you a view of the impressive collection of LBJ's archives.

The staircase from the 3rd floor to the 4th floor gives you a view of the impressive collection of LBJ’s archives.

The Child Protection Act of 1966 ensured that manufacturers made safe toys. The National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act mandated safety belt use. (He also signed the Highway Safety Act the same year.) It reminded me of an older friend who used to give me rides to the evening choral rehearsals with the San Francisco State University choir. Whenever we would come to a stop sign, her right arm instinctively shot out, a reflex of the pre-safety belt days when it was common practice to put one’s arm out to protect the passenger. In that same year, LBJ signed the Freedom of Information Act, which allowed citizens to access formerly classified documents, and the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act, which was designed to provide more information to educate consumers.

In 1967, the Public Broadcast Act enabled the formation of the Corporation for Public Broadcasting, which in turn established the Public Broadcasting System and National Public Radio, which David and I enjoy, as do many of our friends. LBJ was responsible for creating the National Endowment for the Arts and the National Endowment for the Humanities under the National Foundation on the Arts and the Humanities Act. And in that year, he appointed Thurgood Marshall as a justice to the Supreme Court.

A photo-engraved magnesium mural of "A Generation of Presidents" includes LBJ in the Great Hall o the 4th floor.

A photo-engraved magnesium mural of “A Generation of Presidents” includes LBJ in the Great Hall of the 4th floor.

In 1968, he signed the Fire Control Act, Fire Research and Safety Act, and the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act. The Fair Housing Act guaranteed that people of color were not discriminated against when they tried to buy a home. By signing the National Trails System Act, LBJ created the 2,663-mile-long Pacific Crest Trail enjoyed by many a nature lover.

We spent three and a half hours at the museum, and that was only because the museum was closing. We hurried through the 10th floor, which had a smaller-scale version of LBJ’s Oval Office. I think another half-hour would have sufficed, but I learned so much about a man who had a vision about creating a better America and world through his Great Society but was tortured by an unwinnable war that he could not end. (A side note: The Fog of War, a 2003 documentary by Errol Morris about LBJ’s secretary of defense Robert McNamara, illustrates the complexities of the Vietnam War and LBJ’s dilemma. This documentary is highly recommended!) What is amazing is the legacy LBJ did leave, which I so anal retentively and chronologically cataloged.

Here are some amazing statistics that I took with me: When LBJ entered the presidency, the percent of Americans living in poverty in the U.S. was 22 percent. When he left, it was 13 percent. (Another source in the museum said that the reduction went from 20 percent to 12 percent.) No other president has been able to make such an impact on this scourge. He was instrumental in adding 36 sites – a total of 10 million acres – to the National Park System. And he was the founder of the U.S. space program, which fostered the belief that humans could achieve anything.

A statue of LBJ greets you at the entrance of his library and museum.

A statue of LBJ greets you at the entrance of his library and museum.

LBJ understood poverty after his freshman year in college when he took a teaching assignment in a small rural town in Texas called Cotulla, where his predominantly Mexican-American students were poor and often came to school on empty stomachs. Back then he understood that poverty is a symptom not a cause, and that in order to eradicate poverty, we would have to as a great society work together to ensure quality healthcare, education, housing, and job training, and address violence in our communities. The vision of the Great Society was not meant to be a handout but rather a hand up, to make individuals and their communities self-sustaining.

I doubt my kids – at ages 10 and 12.5 – would have had to patience to go through every display and exhibit as we did, but even if they could retain just a smidgeon of what I learned today, their knowledge of one of the most visionary presidents in modern times would have been enhanced greatly. There is truly not a day goes by that someone in our country is not impacted by legislation signed by LBJ. That’s quite a legacy. To quote LBJ: “The Great Society asks not how much, but how good; not only how to create wealth, but how to use it; not only how fast we are going, but where we are headed. It proposes as the first test for a nation: the quality of its people.”

A Meal to end an eventful day
How to end such a full day? After hitting up Feathers again, we decided to take on another suggestion by our friend at Uncommon Objects. We settled ourselves at Woodland (1716 S. Congress Avenue, 512.441.6800), which features appetizers such as spiced pork empanadas, southern corn fritters, and crispy fried Gulf oysters. We enjoyed the roast duck tostada as appetizer (slow-cooked pork seasoned with cumin, cayenne, and red chili in a masa crust with a tomatillo dipping sauce) and the porcini-dusted salmon on a blanket of leek risotta and drizzled with truffle oil. Both were worthy meals to close out my last full day as a tourist in this fun city.

Peasant Jewelry by Michael Hickey features deconstructed rosary pieces and a bone.

Peasant Jewelry by Michael Hickey features deconstructed rosary pieces and a bone.

Peasant Jewelry by Michael Hickey at Feathers. The religious medallion at the top opens up to an engraving inside.

Peasant Jewelry by Michael Hickey at Feathers. The religious medallion at the top opens up to an engraving inside.

Exploring Austin, vintage style

Fashions fade, style is eternal.
– Yves Saint Laurent, French fashion designer

Ever since I read an article in Elle Magazine a year and a half ago about Esperanza Spalding, American jazz bassist and singer who won the 2011 Grammy Award for Best New Artist, I’ve nurtured this desire to visit the city Spalding moved to from Jersey City – Austin, Texas. So when I found out I was going to moderate a roundtable event in Austin in early February, I gleefully pulled out the article and made a little list of destination spots.

So here I am, after a week-long business trip. I flew from Dallas to San Antonio, where my sister lives. Slight detour: We saw the movie, Quartets, which stars Maggie Smith and a cast of actors who had played in the symphony, sang opera on stage, or had some professional musical connection. The British comedy-drama is set at a retirement home for musicians and revolves around an annual concert to honor Verdi’s birthday and to raise funds to keep Beecham House afloat. As reviews have noted, it’s predictable, but it’s sweet and the performances of the veteran actors are touching, the scenery is quite beautiful, and one of my all-time favorite actors, Dustin Hoffman, debuted as the director.

Okay, back to the travels. On Saturday, Heidi drove us to Austin. It was in the upper 70s temperature-wise, which is a roughly 60-degree upswing from what it was when I landed in New York last Saturday. I ditched the parka and ski socks, but alas, I didn’t bring sandals, shorts, or short-sleeved tops, which is pretty much what everyone else there was wearing. It didn’t just feel like summer, it was summer in Austin.

Once we unloaded our things, we headed for South Congress Avenue, where two of Spalding’s favorite vintage shops reside. One of Spalding’s frequent haunts is Feathers (1700b South Congress Ave., Austin, 512.912.9779), which is actually tucked away on Milton Street, a side street of South Congress Avenue. One of the sales associates there told me that people are familiar with the store, thanks to Spalding’s article and honors it has earned such as Top 15 Vintage Shops in the U.S. I have to say that the four-room shop is quite impressive in that it is well curated and displayed by color. Dresses from the 1920s through the 1950s were fun to look at.

A hand-tooled leather purse from the 1930s-1940s, according to the salesperson at Feathers.

A hand-tooled leather purse from the 1930s-1940s, according to the salesperson at Feathers.

The moment I stepped into the shop, I immediately spotted a beautiful hand-tooled leather purse from the 1930s-1940s era, with a velveteen-lined interior and a pocket with what looked like it was once a mirror. I was told by the sales clerk that the jewelry designer – Michael Hickey of Peasant Jewelry – whose works I was admiring used to be local but has since moved to Pittsburgh. Upon further investigation, I’m not so sure this critical-access-nurse-by-day and self-taught artist ever lived in Austin, but his jewelry, which combines found objects, bones, reclaimed vintage, and deconstructed rosary beads to name a few of his materials, is popular here. In an interview from a 2009 Pittsburgh news media, he said that he customizes his jewelry according to the requests from shops – Austin gets his “truly dark stuff.” Hmmm.

Uncommon Objects' storefront on South Congress Avenue.

Uncommon Objects’ storefront on South Congress Avenue.

Spalding’s other vintage shop recommendation is Uncommon Objects (1512 S. Congress Ave., Austin, 512.442.4000), whose tag line is “raw materials for creative living.” The shop is deep and stuffed with an unimaginable number of vintage objects. It’s pretty dizzying, and it was pretty crowded. In fact, South Congress Avenue was teeming with college students, food trucks, and big SUVs and trucks (the automakers must make Texas-size SUVs and trucks just for the state’s citizens). We literally had to wait for a line of people to file out before we could walk in.

Every nook and cranny of Uncommon Objects is packed with vintage treasures.

Every nook and cranny of Uncommon Objects is packed with vintage treasures.

That said, once you step inside, you are greeted – or assaulted, depending upon your level of love for vintage – by a wonderland of antiques, vintage finds, and reclaimed vintage jewelry! What I found really appealing about Uncommon Objects is that the curators displayed the goods in an aesthetically pleasing way. Some of the stalls, or areas, comprising 24 purveyors of “curious goods,” were arranged by color – red, creamy white – while others were arranged by decade or era, such as the 1950s-style lamps, glassware, chairs, chandeliers, secretaries, and tall lava vases, which we had in our living room growing up, that defined one stall. It was fun to walk through and check out the many items. If not rushed and not having to avoid bumping into people all the time, I would have spent a good couple of hours exploring this fun shop.

Just one slice of Uncommon Objects' vintage jewelry display.

Just one slice of Uncommon Objects’ vintage jewelry display.

My favorite area, of course, was the jewelry cabinets, which would have been dripping with jewels because there were so many in the case except that they were displayed in a very organized (read: anal retentive) way. The shop had an amazing amount of 1930s to 1960s rhinestone earrings, brooches, and necklaces, but though I oohed and aahed over the dazzling pieces, I had to remind myself of a jewelry case full of eBay treasures back home (darn, the memory was good in that instance). Antique evening purses and gloves, reminiscent of nights out for the opera or symphony, broke up the rows and layers of jewelry.

I was mesmerized by a whole cabinet of reclaimed-vintage and found-object necklaces and bracelets by Ren of Lux Revival. We were told by the very patient sales clerk who waited on us that the artist is local, but upon further investigation, thanks to the internet, I discovered that the company, which was formed by longtime friends and collaborators Lisa Yesh and Ren Guidry, is actually based in Los Angeles. I’d rather support local artists, especially if I’m bringing something home and want to proudly say, “They’re local artists.” Maybe one or both were originally from Austin or spent some time in Austin, but the most I can say is that I got this beautiful, unique necklace from Uncommon Objects in Austin. And Heidi generously got me a necklace from the same designers, as well.

Lots of vintage cameras to choose from.

Lots of vintage cameras to choose from.

We checked out a cowboy boot shop, where you can’t touch the boots but you are encouraged to ask for help. Though lovely, hand-tooled, and with heels hand-stacked, the boots were out of my price range. The rest of the five or so blocks of South Congress Avenue were okay. By five o’clock, after not having lunch, I was ready to eat dinner.

All things cream-colored are on display here.

All things cream-colored are on display here.

Dining in Austin
We sought the recommendations of our Uncommon Objects sales clerk for a local dining experience that had good food, fewer crowds, and was reasonably priced. His co-worker gave him a hard time for not recommending many good places on South Congress Avenue, but we were done with the crowds. If we were to stay in the neighborhood, he recommended Woodland (1716 S. Congress Avenue, 512.441.6800) and Enoteca Vespaio (1610 S. Congress Avenue, 512.441.7672), a bistro-inspired café, which serves antipasti, pizza, pastas, and pastries.

He suggested going to another part of town, where a trio of restaurants would meet our needs. Justine’s Brassiere (4710, E. 5th Street, Austin, 512.385.2900) is a candlelit French bistro that features old jazz and reggae. East Side Show Room (1100 E. 6th Street, 512.467.4280) is a vintage live music bar and serves gulf shrimp and fried oysters, pork belly ravioli, goat meatballs, and grass-fed blue cheese burgers.

We settled on Hillside Farmacy (1209 E. 11th Street, Austin, 512.628.0168), which I imagined was a farm-to-table concept since the name of the restaurant played with the word “pharmacy.” The eatery and grocery, however, resides in an unassuming green building with a dirt parking lot, which was once called the Hillside Pharmacy in the 1950s. It was warm enough to dine outdoors in front of the restaurant, but once you walk in, you appreciate the theme, which recreates the drugstore vibe, complete with original restored pharmacy cabinetry, black-and-white tiled floor, and drugstore-type tables and chairs. We ordered the cheese platter and braised short ribs. While the cheese platter was good, the braised short ribs were bland and I had trouble (in the candlelit room) determining what was fat and what was meat. The bread pudding was more of a raisin French toast than what I’m usually accustomed to, and service was spotty.

All in all, it was an okay meal. If only I had read what restaurant Spalding had recommended – Justine’s – because I completely trust her taste in vintage shops. Next time!

We were slated to attend a Sunday gospel brunch at Threadgill’s, go to the LBJ Library and Museum, and return to South Congress Avenue for a quick review of the vintage stores again. Stay tuned for a review of these places on Wednesday.

Reclaimed vintage rosary beads, hook and hardware, and metal matchbox by Ren of Lux Revival, designed for Uncommon Objects.

Reclaimed vintage rosary beads, hook and hardware, and metal matchbox by Ren of Lux Revival, designed for Uncommon Objects.

A longer chain holds a reclaimed vintage metal matchbox by Ren of Lux Revival, designed for Uncommon Objects.

A longer chain holds a reclaimed vintage metal matchbox by Ren of Lux Revival, designed for Uncommon Objects.

The Sixth Floor Museum in Dallas: Reliving November 22, 1963

For of those to whom much is given, much is expected.
– John F. Kennedy, 35th President of the United States

My father was a huge Kennedy fan. We had one of those 1960s thick-padded, pleather ottomans in the family room closet that held my father’s Kennedy paraphernalia, which was mostly soft-cover, color books about the life and times – and assassination – of our 35th president. I don’t know whatever happened to those books, but I imagine my mother got rid of them, being the person who decluttered and constantly battled with my father’s Depression-era-induced hoarder mentality.

The corner 6th floor of the 7-floor Texas School Book Depository building is where Oswald shot JFK.

The corner 6th floor of the 7-floor Texas School Book Depository building is where Oswald shot JFK.

It was only fitting, then, that when I asked my sister, Heidi, what one thing I should see while in Dallas, she responded without hesitation – the Texas School Book Depository – now named the Sixth Floor Museum at Dealey Plaza (411 Elm Street, Dallas, 214.747.6660, $16 entrance fee for adults). This November marks the 50th anniversary of Kennedy’s assassination. I was only 21 months old at the time, but I remember the funeral processions of Robert Kennedy and Martin Luther King, Jr., on television years later. My father, of course, remembered and talked of the great tragedy. He was a New Deal FDR guy and like many people in the early 1960s was enchanted by the youth, charm, and vigor brought to the White House by Jacqueline and John F. Kennedy and their young children.The museum takes its name from the floor of the book depository where Oswald had shot the President.

Everything is on the sixth floor, though the seventh floor – which is the only area where you are allowed to take photographs – has a few more artifacts and informational placards. What is amazing is that the sixth floor holds approximately 40,000 artifacts, chronicling the JFK’s life and legacy. Everyone gets a headset to guide you through the maze of information. You get a very detailed history of the era from a political, cultural, and global perspective. And, of course, you get a very detailed accounting of that fateful day, which was poignant and left me bereft.The infamous corner was recreated, a large diorama depicts the location of the motorcade at the time of the shooting, and the conspiracy theories and the Warren Commission findings were treated thoroughly. The short films put you right at the center of times. The oral histories of eyewitness accounts were especially moving. One display held photos that eyewitnesses had taken, along with their cameras. And, of course, Abraham Zapruder‘s film of the assassination was displayed frame by frame. I confess that as I moved along in the museum, prompted by the audio recording, a sense of impending dread and agitation crept in the closer I got to the actual moment in time. It speaks to how well conceived and developed the museum is.

Photomosaic portrait of Jacqueline Kennedy on the 7th floor.

Photomosaic portrait of Jacqueline Kennedy on the 7th floor.

Pixels of JFK's image comprised Jacqueline Kennedy's large-scale photomosaic.

Pixels of JFK’s image comprise Jacqueline Kennedy’s large-scale photomosaic.

I was struck by Jackie Kennedy‘s grace and composure. I had forgotten how stunning and naturally beautiful she was, especially in her youth. When I looked at the many photos of the First Family and couple, it was easy to see why the nation was transfixed by them and buoyed by their love and support of the arts, her simple yet elegant sense of style, and their youthful idealism that spurred the younger generation to make better the world. On the seventh floor, two large-scale portraits hang. These photomosaics by Alex Guofeng Cao feature pixels of pictures that comprise the overall portrait. JFK’s portrait comprises pixels of Jackie, and her portrait comprises pixels of her husband.

JFK's photomosaic on the 7th floor.

JFK’s photomosaic on the 7th floor.

Pixels of Jacqueline Kennedy's photo comprise JFK's large-scale photomosaic.

Pixels of Jacqueline Kennedy’s photo comprise JFK’s large-scale photomosaic.

Looking down on the 7th floor where the motorcade was traveling by. The grassy knoll is in the background.

Looking down on the 7th floor where the motorcade was traveling by. The grassy knoll is in the background.

As I looked out the sixth floor window, onto the street where the motorcade passed and the grassy knoll farther out, I couldn’t help but wonder where we as a nation would be had JFK not been stricken. As one news report noted, it wasn’t just JFK who was shot, it was the President. And therefore the nation. I wandered around outside in the bright sunshine for a few moments, trying to get my bearings. The museum carefully, painfully records a historic moment in our history, and indeed the world. You come out of the Sixth Floor Museum somber and thoughtful. But if you are inspired by the many famous lines spoken by JFK and on display throughout the museum, you begin to walk forward briskly, with the notion that JFK’s legacy lives on in the good deeds you and I can do to sustain and respect our environment, help those less fortunate than we, appreciate our family and friends even more, and set worthy examples for our children. As JFK once said, “One person can make a difference, and everyone should try.” Words to live by.

A close-up of the Dallas cityscape.

A close-up of the Dallas cityscape.

Post script: Other points of interest
From the seventh floor of the museum, you can see the Margaret Hunt Hill Bridge, which was designed by the world-famous Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, connects downtown to West Dallas. Rising above the Trinity River, the steel bridge spans 1,870 feet long and 400 feet high at its tallest point. If you are familiar with Calatrava’s work (I had to write a brief summary of him for a SHPE Magazine feature article on famous Hispanic engineers several years ago), you will recognize his innovative point of view and how his creations are imbued with a sense of movement, rhythm, and freedom.

The Margaret Hunt Hill Bridge by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava.

The Margaret Hunt Hill Bridge by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava.

Top Chef aficionados know that past chefs Tiffany Derry, Tre Wilcox, and Casey Thompson hail from Dallas. Also, this season’s Dallas Top Chef contestants included John Tesar (Spoon Bar & Kitchen, 8220 Westchester Dr., Plaza at Preston Center, 214.368.8220), Joshua Valentine (pastry chef at FT33, 1617 Hi Line Drive, 214.741.2629), and Danyele McPherson (The Grape, 2808 Greenville Ave Dallas, 214.828.1981). Apparently, Wilcox resigned last week from his position of executive chef from the Village Marquee Grill & Bar (33 Highland Park Village, Dallas, 214.522.6035) to spend more time with his 11-year-old daughter. I didn’t get a chance to check out Derry’s restaurant, Private | Social (3232 McKinney Avenue, Dallas, 214.754.4744), which is a combination of soul food, Asian fusion, and global. Perhaps on the next visit!

My room with a view in Dallas.

My room with a view in Dallas.