Monthly Archives: July 2018

Family vacation in France: Day 16 in Chantilly and Senlis

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Whoever does not visit Paris regularly will never really be elegant.
 – Honoré de Balzac, French novelist and playwright

It’s difficult to enjoy Day 16 of a family vacation when Day 16 is the last day. It was on my mind when I woke up in Versailles that morning and throughout the day, though I did my best to live in the moment. We were originally slated to drive from Versailles to Senlis, where we were going to spend the night because it was only 15 miles from Charles de Gaulle Airport, where we needed to drop off the Hertz rental car and would be flying out of. But I was hoping I could somehow get to Paris and get these “butterfly” earrings that I was coveting our last night in Paris (but the shop was closed before its listed close time). After a “discussion,” David said we’d drive through Paris to Senlis, which is something he didn’t want to suffer through – Paris traffic. But that’s what we did. It was not without drama, as on the way into Paris, a road-raged motorcyclist tried to speed ahead of our car as David merged. He slapped the side-view mirror on David’s side of the car before speeding off, but then we saw him slow down in our lane and force the two cars ahead of us to pass him. To my horror, he slowed down to my side of the car and slammed the side-view mirror in. Thankfully, he drove off. At any rate, we drove to the shop in Île Saint-Louis, I hopped out in front of the shop and purchased the earrings, and we drove off.

From Paris, after a difficult time getting out of Paris, thanks to our GPS’s bad directions, we drove straight to Domaine de Chantilly. This would be our seventh and final château to visit, if you’re counting Versailles as a château and not a palace – and the Château de Chantilly was a fitting end to our run of French châteaux.

Château de Chantilly from the entrance.

Impressive statue, but I don’t know who this is. Perhaps the Duke of Aumale? Château de Chantilly.

A panoramic view of the Château de Chantilly.

The French-style garden, Château de Chantilly.

Château de Chantilly, which was built during the Middle Ages by various owners, is a beautiful castle. “Anne de Montmorency, constable of king François I, inherited the Château de Chantilly and transformed the building, located on a rocky outcrop, into a Renaissance-style château. The Condé dynasty subsequently extended the domain, commissioned the French-style garden from Le Nôtre, had the Great Stables built, and made the domain a place of cultural and gastronimcal festivity.”

Hunting dogs statue, Château de Chantilly.

Corner of Château de Chantilly.

A view of Château de Chantilly coming from the Great Stables.

A view of Château de Chantilly surrounded by water.

Château de Chantilly was destroyed during the Revolution. Henri d’Orléans Duke of Aumale, who was heir of the last of the Condés and son of king Louis-Philippe, the last of the French kings, spent 23 years in exile in England, where he acquired a massive collection of paintings, furniture, books, manuscripts, and decorative arts. When he returned to France, he rebuilt the château to house his collections. The duke has a singular vision that ruled his life – to “embellish and restore Chantilly.” He created the Condé museum within the heart of the château specifically for his treasures. The museum houses 550 works presented on dark red walls. There are three Raphael paintings and a Delacroix painting in this collection. The library and reading room house nearly 19,000 works, including 1,500 manuscripts.

The most impressive and dramatic room in Château de Chantilly for me was the Gallery of Painting.

A Delacroix painting, Château de Chantilly.

One of three Raphael paintings, Château de Chantilly.

Luminous Française painting, Château de Chantilly.

A Pompeii mosaic on the floor of the Rotunda in the Gallery of Painting, Château de Chantilly.

Ceiling painting in the Rotunda in the Gallery of Painting, Château de Chantilly.

Painting and sculpture, the Gallery of Painting, Château de Chantilly.

I’m envious of the Reading Room. Look at all those books and manuscripts on two levels! Château de Chantilly.

Close-up of the protected stacks of books in the Reading Room, Château de Chantilly.

Detail of a stained-glass panel, one of many telling Biblical stories, Château de Chantilly.

“With no direct heir, he decided to bequeath the Domaine de Chantilly and its treasures to the Institut de France, which groups the five Academies, in his 1884 testament.” His will stated that his paintings – hanging on several levels in the 19th century fashion – had to be maintained and could not be loaned out of Chantilly. “He sought to make the Domaine de Chantilly a place of exception open to the public.”

The Duke of Aumale’s paintings remain hung the way he wished – 19th-century style of hanging on several levels on a wall, Château de Chantilly.

Paintings in the appropriately named Gallery of Painting, Château de Chantilly.

Elaborately decorated cabinet, Château de Chantilly.

Detail of a painting in the corner of a ceiling, Château de Chantilly.

Another Pompeii mosaic but hanging over a mantle, Château de Chantilly.

Staircase looking up to where the Chapel is located, Château de Chantilly.

Staircase detail, Château de Chantilly.

The Chapel, Château de Chantilly.

Detail of statue in the Chapel, Château de Chantilly.

A cabinet full of beautiful, detailed fans, Château de Chantilly.

Looking out into the courtyard from inside, with a screen providing texture, Château de Chantilly.

Before we ventured out on the very warm day, we had lunch outdoors in the château’s La Capitainerie Restaurant. I savored my last glass of wine with lunch and my last French lunch.

Gazpacho on a hot day, yes, La Capitainerie Restaurant, Château de Chantilly.

My dish of fish, La Capitainerie Restaurant, Château de Chantilly.

David’s steak, La Capitainerie Restaurant, Château de Chantilly.

Getting punchy on our last day in France, La Capitainerie Restaurant, Château de Chantilly.

After lunch, we ventured to some of the gardens, but we missed much of the sprawling grounds. We did not step down past the château to the French-style garden, which is somewhat reminiscent of the garden at Château de Chambord and designed by André Le Nôtre,  French landscape architect and the principal gardener of King Louis XIV. We missed the numerous fountains, water features, and collection of statues. We also missed the Anglo-Chinese garden, which was designed in 1773, and the Petit Parc, which was created in the early 18th century.

Fountain in the 19th century English Garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

The Temple of Venus from afar, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

The château from the English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Bust, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Stopping for duck watching, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Isabella contemplating her reflection in the stream, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Bench and stream, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Stream reflecting the sky and clouds, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Bridge over stream, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

We did venture to the English garden, which sits on a plot that was left vacant from a part of Le Nôtre’s gardens that were destroyed during the Revolution. There were quaint bridges, park benches by the stream, fountains, and ponds thick with water lilies. As we made our way across this garden, we captured beautiful photographs of Château de Chantilly with the water in the foreground. I have to say that there were so many memorable views of the château.

Apologies for four straight photographs of the château from the English garden, but it was difficult to curate such a beautiful view, Domaine de Chantilly. This one is from far away, with the château framed by reflective stream, trees and grasses, and the glorious sky and clouds.

Coming around the bend, a little closer view of the château from the English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Closer still to the château from the English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

My lone entrant of the château bordered by nature, Domaine de Chantilly.

The lush and peaceful English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Stream and trees, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

On the Island of Love, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Great Men’s Bridge, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Water lilies, stream, sky, and clouds, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

We made our way to the Great Stables, which were built in the 18th century and were considered a horses’ palace. Originally dedicated to hunting, they were converted to barracks during the Revolution. They were converted back to stables in 1815. Isabella was in heaven going through the Museum of the Horse, which was inaugurated in 2013 in the 15 rooms of the Cour des Remises in the Great Stables. She got to see some beautiful horses and we bought her a pair of stirrup earrings to commemorate her time at Domaine de Chantilly.

Detail of the entrance to the Great Stables, Domaine de Chantilly.

Angry carousel horse, Museum of the Horse, the Great Stables, Domaine de Chantilly.

Isabella with horse sculpture, the Great Stables, Domaine de Chantilly.

One of many horses in the Great Stables, Domaine de Chantilly.

The Great Stables from afar, Domaine de Chantilly.

As we made our way back to our car, we savored our walk around the château and more views of this beautiful estate. Three different wedding parties were having their photography session on the grounds. I couldn’t think of a grander place for such an event. While tourists roamed the grounds, the château was never crowded, and we made our way without encountering any congestion.

Another view of the memorable Château de Chantilly.

We drove to Senlis and had another challenging drive to our hotel for our last night. La Villa Camille is a charming rustic hotel, but the road it was on was under construction, so we were stuck and David had to back out on the very narrow roads. We ended up calling our host and he came out to direct us where to park. Then we encountered another problem – his booking streams weren’t synched up, and he had not room for us. But he came up with a solution, and we ended up with his room in the attic. It’s a very roomy attic with beds for everyone. We had a lovely view of Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Senlis, which was constructed beginning in 1153.

Our room with a view, Notre-Dame Cathedral de Senlis, La Villa Camille, Senlis.

Quaint cat and sign, La Villa Camille, Senlis.

The courtyard garden, with orange horse and a reclining Jacob, La Villa Camille, Senlis.

Our attic room, La Villa Camille, Senlis.

Sitting area off of the bathroom in our room, La Villa Camille, Senlis.

The kids’ side of the attic room, La Villa Camille, Senlis.

The view of Notre-Dame Cathedral de Senlis from La Villa Camille’s courtyard garden, Senlis.

Feeling bad about the mix-up, though in the end everything was fine, our host at La Villa Camille made reservations for us for dinner at La Scaramouche (4 Place Notre Dame, 60300 Senlis), which is across from Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Senlis. It was a Saturday evening, a wedding had taken place, and so we didn’t get an outdoor table. We ate inside, and though the food was magical, we were sweating inside because it was so warm and the restaurant had no air conditioning! But would I trade our evening for just any restaurant with air conditioning? Non! The wine was heavenly, the food gastronomically satisfying, and the dessert sinful. Fitting for our last meal in France. It was also Jacob’s last glass of French wine. Sigh.

Notre-Dame Cathedral de Senlis, which was across from La Scaramouche.

Cocktails, please, La Scaramouche, Senlis.

Bread and charcuterie, La Scaramouche, Senlis.

Delicious crostini with goat cheese, La Scaramouche, Senlis.

Jacob’s potatoes and chicken, La Scaramouche, Senlis.

My last French meal of duck, canard, La Scaramouche, Senlis.

David’s tuna, La Scaramouche, Senlis.

Isabella’s duck, La Scaramouche, Senlis.

The front of La Scaramouche, Senlis, where we wished we were seated!

By the time we finished our dinner, Notre-Dame Cathedral de Senlis was all lit up.

After dinner, we stayed up for a drink with our La Villa Camille host in the hotel’s whimsical garden. We talked politics, similarities between France and California (our host felt there were similarities), and his family history (he showed us framed letters that his forebears received from Napoleon and WWII dignitaries). His home was decorated with so much family history. I wish we had more time to appreciate La Villa Camille. We would have loved to have stayed longer, but repacking beckoned us, as well as a very early departure. It was nice, however, to have spent our last night with a drink and congenial conversation. Bonne nuit and au revoir!

Notre-Dame Cathedral de Senlis early in the morning of our departure from our window of our room, La Villa Camille, Senlis.

Family vacation in France: Day 15 in Versailles

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Everything ends this way in France – everything. Weddings, christenings, duels, burials, swindlings, diplomatic affairs – everything is a pretext for a good dinner.
– Jean Anouilh, French playwright

The next morning we took off for Versailles, but not before having chocolat chaud and croissants at Bigot Pâtisserie & Chocolatier, at the corner of Place Michel Debré and Rue Nationale, Amboise.

We said au revoir to Amboise, the Loire Valley, and La Tartue, our sweet home here. After chocolat chaud and croissants, our breakfast of choice in France, at Bigot Pâtisserie & Chocolatier, a family-run establishment for more than 100 years, we headed out. Our next stop was Versailles, a two-hour drive away. We ended our AirBnB accommodations and landed at the Hôtel le Cheval Rouge, which was built in 1676 as Louis XIV’s stables. The hotel was not that far away from the château. It was not the most appealing accommodation, but it had history, so we appreciated that.

Hôtel le Cheval Rouge, Versailles.

Once we checked in and dropped off our luggage after lunch, we footed it to Château de Versailles, about a 10-minute walk to the entrance. To say it was overrun with tourists and tourist groups is an understatement. We would have fared better to come at the opening. If we had come later in the afternoon, we would have had our visit cut short even more, as the château and gardens were going to close early, at 5:30pm, for a light show.

Approaching Château de Versailles.

At the gates of Château de Versailles. I had to be just as aggressive as the people around me to get our photo in!

Château de Versailles.

Detail of statue the outside of Château de Versailles.

The clock on the building of Château de Versailles.

Another detail of building, Château de Versailles.

Cool royal courtyard at the entrance of Château de Versailles.

Statue detail of outside of Château de Versailles.

Detail of statue, Château de Versailles.

We were body-to-body as we went from one room to the next. It was difficult to really appreciate what we were seeing with so many tourists in the rooms. We did the best that we could. I enjoyed the paintings on the ceilings – at least there I didn’t have to have tourists in my photos!

Tourists taking pictures on their smart phones, Versailles.

Versailles was home to French monarchs and was the center of culture in Europe for some hundred years. Louis XIV (1638-1715) turned his father’s hunting lodge into the grand palace that is Versailles, using the public treasury to fund his venture. Louis XIV gave himself the name Sun King because he “gave life and warmth to all he touched.” He was also compared to Apollo, the Greek god of the sun, with Versailles being the personal temple of Apollo. That’s why there are numerous statues and symbols of Apollo, the sun, and Louis XIV himself throughout Versailles. He was the absolute monarch for 72 years. His great-grandson, Louis XV, reigned from 1715-1774. Towards the end of his rule, France was faltering – its power abroad was weakening and civil unrest was brewing. When Louis XVI came into power in 1774, he married Marie-Antoinette, from an Austrian royal family, and they retreated to an idyllic existence in Versailles. Meanwhile, the natives were getting restless. The French Revolution of 1789, of course, turned everything upside-down. In 1837, King Louis-Philippe opened the palace as a museum.

Hall near the entrance of Château de Versailles, David’s take without tourists.

Hall near the entrance of Château de Versailles, my take without tourists.

Likely one of the apartments of the daughters of Louis XV, Château de Versailles.

Likely a room from the apartments of the daughters of Louis XV, Château de Versailles.

Elaborately decorated doors and ceiling paintings everywhere, Château de Versailles.

Detail of ceiling painting, Château de Versailles.

Selfie with David, Château de Versailles.

Same big room. I wish I remembered what room this is, but I’ll take a guess that this is a either a state apartment or one of Louis XIV rooms, Château de Versailles.

Another bedroom in the apartments of the daughters of Louis XV, Château de Versailles.

We walked through many rooms either very slowly because we were hampered by the crowd in front of us, or quickly to avoid said crowds. So, we didn’t the backstory to what we were seeing. Of course, we knew about the Hall of Mirrors. At the time, mirrors were a luxury, so the sheer quantity of mirrors, along with their size, made for a breathtaking sight. Nearly 250 feet long, the hall boasts 17 arched mirrors on the interior wall and 17 windows that offer an expansive view of the Gardens. In modern times, June 28, 1919, the Hall of Mirrors served as the place where Germany and the Allies signed the Treaty of Versailles, which ended WWI.

Hall of MIrrors, Château de Versailles.

Painting from the corner ceiling, Château de Versailles.

Another ceiling painting, Château de Versailles.

The library in one of the apartments, Château de Versailles.

Another ceiling painting, Château de Versailles.

The Gallery of Battles, which depicts paintings of French military victories, Château de Versailles.

Painting depicting George Washington and Lafayette defeating the British at the Battle of Yorktown, The Gallery of Battles, Château de Versailles.

Towards the end of the tour of Château de Versailles.

The gardens were spectacular. We walked past the big fountain and all the way down to the Petit Canal, or Grand Canal, where once French royalty glided by in imported Venetian gondolas. No gondolas here now. We would have rowed a boat on the canal, but the rental shop was closing early, too, for the light show. For that reason, I’m glad we didn’t come later, though at the expense of being elbow-to-elbow with tourists. We didn’t explore all of the gardens, which I regretted because I could see down the trails here and there that beauty awaited just around the corner. You could spend an entire day just in the gardens, which was my favorite part of what I saw of Versailles. We also didn’t see Trianon Palaces and Domaine de Marie-Antoinette. If we ever come back – David would likely say no – I’d come first thing in the morning and spend the afternoon exploring the gardens.

Statue outside of Château de Versailles.

Methinks this statue outside of Château de Versailles is Poseidon.

From the steps at the top of the gardens, you can see all the way to the Grand Canal, Versailles Gardens.

Latona’s Fountain, Versailles Gardens.

Close-up view of Latona’s Fountain, Versailles Gardens.

Detail of Latona’s Fountain, Versailles Gardens.

Family portrait with Château de Versailles and dramatic skies in the background.

Stately marble statues lining the groves, Versailles Gardens.

Statue in Versailles Gardens.

Same statue, looking skyward, where he is pointing to sunlight, a break in the clouds, Versailles Gardens.

A grove of beautiful trees, Versailles Gardens.

Detail of a statue with mask, Versailles Gardens.

Apollo’s Fountain with reflection of the sky, Versailles Gardens.

The astonishing Apollo’s Fountain, a close-up, Versailles Gardens.

David takes a picture of me taking a picture of Isabella and Jacob, Apollo’s Fountain, Versailles Gardens.

David’s photo of Jacob and Isabella at Apollo’s Fountain, Versailles Gardens.

And my photograph of Jacob and Isabella at Apollo’s Fountain, Versailles Gardens.

While we were waiting in line to purchase a souvenir for Isabella’s friend, Jacob came from another part of the museum shop and said he saw a girl who looked like an exchange student we had housed three years ago for three weeks in the summer. We told him it was probably someone who looked like Violette. Another clerk came to the register to help out the lone clerk. She called us up since we were next in line. As she rang us up, she said, “Aren’t you the family who I stayed with in San Francisco three years ago?” How bizarre to have stumbled upon her at this particular time and place! It was also awkward, as we did not bond with her; otherwise, we would have kept in touch and let her know that we were visiting her homeland. We chatted for a few minutes and then we were on our way out of Versailles.

My panorama of Versailles.

We dined at Le Bouchon du Marche, near our hotel. The chalkboard menu was all in French. Our server was quite accommodating, trying to explain the various menu items. She was great and we had a really nice meal in Versailles. We were only staying one night in Versailles, and we were gearing up for our last full day in France, and our last night in our hotel.

Window of Le Bouchon du Marche, Versailles.

The other window of Le Bouchon du Marche, Versailles.

My almond salmon dish, Le Bouchon du Marche, Versailles.

A good bottle of red, Le Bouchon du Marche, Versailles.

Father and son enjoying dinner outdoors, Le Bouchon du Marche, Versailles.

Isabella’s chocolate torte drowning in creme, Le Bouchon du Marche, Versailles.

David’s dessert – berry ice cream in warm cherry sauce! Le Bouchon du Marche.

We ate breakfast at a nearby pâtisserie on our way out of Versailles. One more look at the religieuse!

Family vacation in France: Day 14 in Amboise

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Give me books, French wine, fruit, fine weather and a little music played out of doors by somebody I do not know.
– John Keats, English Romantic poet

We had scheduled three days in Amboise, the Loire Valley. It was our third day, and we were game for two more châteaux. David pointed out in retrospect that we should have visited just three châteaux and leisurely examined all of the grounds. I wish that, too, but sometimes on your first trip to any new country, any new place, is a splash, so to speak. You go in and see everything that you can, with the understanding that you will return. At least that’s what I’m hoping!

Château de Chambord.

Château de Chambord
Château de Chambord is a beast of a château – allegedly six times the size of the average Loire castle! The entrance is from the back, but as you walk around the building, you begin to appreciate the scale of this massive château, which boasts 440 rooms and a fireplace for every day of the year, according to Rick Steves. Its history is equally expansive and fascinating. In 1515, François I was enthroned and became king of France. He began construction of Château de Chambord in 1519, the same year that his dear friend, Leonardo da Vinci, died in the Loire Valley. The château was still under construction when François I died in 1547, but his son, Henri II, carried on the construction as he ascended to the throne. The work was suspended for some 70 years until Gaston, Duke of Orléans was granted possession of Chambord. After the duke died, Chambord returned to the crown, Louis XIV. In 1725 the former king of Poland, Stanislas Leszczynski moved into Chambord. After Leszczynski moves out in 1733, Chambord is granted to Maurice, Count of Saxony, by King Louis XV. Maurice died in the château in 1750, and in 1781, the park and the château are entrusted to the royal stud farms. During the French Revolution, in 1792, the furniture was auctioned off. Two more dignitaries would be granted Chamboard, but in 1840, the château became the first on the list of Monuments historiques de France to be registered.

Another view of Château de Chambord.

Outside spiral staircase, Château de Chambord.

Detail of a a tower from the rooftop, Château de Chambord.

Close-up of the rooftop, Château de Chambord.

Enjoying the rooftop views of Château de Chambord.

Batman view of a tower, Château de Chambord.

Dizzy yet? Tower, Château de Chambord.

More views of the rooftop, Château de Chambord.

Last exterior shot of Château de Chambord.

Unbeknownst to us, Château de Chambord is surrounded by Europe’s largest enclosed park, a game preserve with a 20-mile-long wall and wild deer and boar. Originally a hunting lodge, Chambord became somewhat of a monument to the royal sport. The château is laid out in the shape of a Greek cross – four towers and wings surrounded by stables – and has four floors with soaring ceilings. The architecture of the château is modeled after an Italian church. The ground floor hosts reception rooms, the first floor royal apartments, the second floor temporary exhibits of contemporary artists and a hunting museum, and the rooftop boasts a terrace with fantastic “far as the eye can see” views of the gardens and beyond.

From the rooftop, you can see forever, at least the manicured gardens, Château de Chambord.

Detail of the garden at Château de Chambord. You can see how big it is in scale to the people walking below.

On the far left of the gardens is the entrance, shops, a hotel, restaurants, and a pond, Château de Chambord.

Isabella at the stables with a horse friend, Château de Chambord.

The main attraction of Château de Chambord is its double-helix staircase. This grand spiral staircase sits in the middle of the structure and consists in two separate flights of stairs, twin helices proceeding upwards around a hollow newel post. “If two persons choose to use different flights, they will espy each other through numerous loopholes as they ascend – without ever meeting.” Hmmm. I didn’t notice that while going up and down the staircase. While not a cozy place – indeed, many inhabitants found it too big and too cold – there’s a stateliness about Chambord. I can’t imagine spending a winter there, but I bet it was beautiful throughout the seasons.

The grand staircase in Château de Chambord.

David looking down at me from the stairway, Château de Chambord.

Going up the grand staircase, Château de Chambord.

Interior detail in the massive stone wall, Château de Chambord.

Detail of a column, Château de Chambord.

We lunched at one of the outdoor cafés, amusing ourselves with a group of Chinese women tourists, who brought their own portable reflectors, for professional-grade photographs. One woman was dressed in a bright, crowd-stopping red flared dress and wide-brimmed hat. She posed the most, no surprise. But luckily, again, we didn’t encounter elbow-to-elbow tourists at the châteaux. After we ate our artfully prepared lunch, we headed out for the last château in the Loire Valley.

Tourists taking pictures at Château de Chambord.

Curry chicken and a glass of rosé at an outdoor café, Château de Chambord.

David’s crème brûlée at Château de Chambord.

Berry custard at Château de Chambord.

Château de Cheverny
After the massive, thick, and brutish Château de Chambord, we found Château de Cheverny to be more refined and stately. This hunting château was built and furnished in a 30-year span, from 1604 to 1634, which is a blink of an eye compared to the construction phases of the previous châteaux that we visited. Château de Cheverny has been in the same family – the Hurault family – since the beginning. It was opened to the public in 1922. The viscount and his family actually still live here, on the third floor. Interestingly, Château de Cheverny survived the French Revolution – at the time, the count’s relatives were well liked by all, including the village farmers, even up to today.

The stately Château de Cheverny.

The rooms were fully furnished. There was an interesting Lego exhibit at the Château de Cheverny. Every room had a Lego character or structure. We weren’t privy to what was going on or what each exhibit meant, but we enjoyed seeing these Lego structures/characters, some of which are contemporary, in this historical setting.

Dinner is served in the elaborately decorated dining room, Château de Cheverny.

See the Lego portrait to the left and some Lego statues on the table, Château de Cheverny.

A knight’s armor and weaponry, Château de Cheverny.

The chapel at Château de Cheverny includes a Lego portrait of The Last Supper.

One of the family apartments, Château de Cheverny.

A child’s bedroom, Château de Cheverny.

What is a Lego Scooby Doo dog and other Lego dogs doing in this child’s room in the Château de Cheverny? We never found out.

Château de Cheverny bedroom with a wedding dress on a mannequin and veil over a chair. But what is the significance of the detective at the window and the basset hound?

A tapestry hangs in the Arms Room with weapons, a sedan chair, and a snare drum from the count of Chambord, Château de Cheverny.

We checked out the kitchen garden, which has a hanging orchid garden, which misted the flowers at timed intervals. We walked through the apprentices’ garden, which stands between the Château de Cheverny and the Orangery. The garden reflects a combination of French classical geometry and formal flowerbeds and English-style perspective with its views of the ground. We had ice cream at the Orangery, which is at the end of the walkway. The 18th century orangery was originally used to shelter the orange trees in the wintertime. The first orange trees in France were said to have been brought from Spain to Queen Anne de Bretagne for her gardens in Blois. During WWII, it is said that the Orangery sheltered numerous French national property, including the Mona Lisa! Today, it’s a charming café.

This massive Sequoia Géant was planted here near the dog kennels on the grounds of Château de Chevern in 1870!

Statue and rooftop of Château de Cheverny.

Pool behind the Château de Cheverny.

The arbor leading to the Orangery, Château de Cheverny.

The 18th-century orangery once protected the Mona Lisa during WWII, Château de Cheverny.

A pom-pom fuschia dahlia, in the kitchen garden, Château de Cheverny.

Hanging orchids getting misted under an arbor, the kitchen garden, Château de Cheverny.

When you are at Château de Cheverny, you can hear barking and howling. The kennels near the trophy room and kitchen garden house some hundred French hounds, which have a V for Vibraye shorn into the right flank of each hound. Cheverny remains an important hunting venue, much to Isabella’s dismay. We missed the labyrinth maze, the Jardin de Tulipes (tulip garden), and the canal with electric boats. We also didn’t see the Expo Tintin Exhibit. I’m familiar with Tintin but not intimately; Château de Cheverny was prominently featured in one of the Tintin movies.

This hound was friendly, at the dog kennel, Château de Cheverny.

Super hot hound takes a splash in the watering hole, dog kennel, Château de Cheverny.

By the end of the day, we were effectively and collectively château’d out. We decided that on our last night we must dine out in Amboise. On the recommendation of our host and Rick Steves, we made a reservation for La Fourchette (9 Rue Malebranche), on a quiet, dead-end street near Rue Nationale. It was a short walk from our Amboise house. This tiny, unassuming family diner is deceptively simple in its décor and cuisine. But the food is incredibly flavorful. The restaurant offers only two options for entrées and plat at fantastic prices. We ate outside and witnessed many disappointed people who didn’t have reservations being turned away. They likely had three serving times, and after that, the restaurant is done for the evening. We definitely recommend eating here if you find yourself in Amboise. We’re so glad we ate here for our last meal in Amboise, and in the Loire Valley.

La Fourchette, near Rue Nationale at 9 Rue Malebranche, Amboise.

Our tartare starter was delicious, La Fourchette, Amboise.

I don’t remember what I ordered, but it was good, La Fourchette, Amboise.

Anticipating dessert after a tasty dinner at La Fourchette, Amboise.

Chocolate cake in a pool of mint, La Fourchette, Amboise.

My dessert, a tart of sorts, La Fourchette, Amboise.

This house on our way down from our Amboise house to the Loire River has a placard that proclaims when it was built – 1638!

Family vacation in France: Day 13 in Amboise

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History is written by the survivors. And I am surely that.
 – Queen Catherine de’ Medici, Italian noblewoman, queen of France from 1547 until 1559, by marriage to King Henri II

On the drive from Mont St-Michel to Amboise, we showed Isabella and Jacob pictures of the châteaux of the East side of the Loire Valley and asked them to pick their top two. Jacob picked Amboise and Chambord, while Isabella selected Chenonceau and Cheverny. When we decamped in Amboise, we saw Château Amboise, down the street from our AirBnB house. Today, based on proximity, we paired up Chenonceau and Chambord, which was about an hour’s drive through the leisurely Loire Valley countryside.

But first, before we head out, breakfast of chocolat chaud and croissant in Amboise.

Yummy pastries in Amboise.

I can’t promise you that this is the last photo of bales of hay, but it was the last time David acquiesced to my request to “pull the car over so we can take pictures of bales of hay.”

Château de Chenonceau
Château de Chenonceau is a 16th-century Renaissance palace that spans the Cher River – and one of the most-visited châteaux in all of France. We got there mid-morning, after traversing the countryside and stopping for more bales of hay photo opps, and the tourist situation was not bad at all. There were a few buses and tour groups, but nothing like the other big monuments in Paris. We counted ourselves lucky. Like Château d’Amboise, Château de Chenonceau is a grand castle, but Château de Chenonceau took my breath away.

There’s a lovely tree-lined walkway leading up to Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Two reclining lions greet you at the entrance of Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

The château and mill, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

I was taken by the stories of the past owners and occupants of Château de Chenonceau. Thomas Bohier and his wife Katherine Briçonnet tore down the fortified castle and mill belong to the Marques family who owned it before. The Marques tower was all that was left, and Bohier restored it to the current Renaissance style of the 16th century. The château is built on the piers of the old fortified mill. The Château has been nicknamed “the château of the ladies,” as it was home to many notable women, including the most famous – Catherine de’ Medici, who married King Henri II. In 1547, King Henri II donated Chenonceau to his lady, or mistress, Diane de Poiters, who was known for her beauty, intelligence, and business acumen. Diane, who was a French noblewoman and courtier at the courts of King Henri II and his son, King Frances I, or François I, wielded enormous power in her position. She created spectacular and modern – at the time – gardens. After Henri II’s death, however, Catherine kicked out Diane, banishing her to Château de Chaumont-Sur-Loire, which we visited in the afternoon. Such banishment couldn’t have been all that bad if you think about what she ended up with – it’s not the Château de Chenonceau but it’s still a castle. At any rate, Diane lived an interesting life. Simonne Menier, of the Menier chocolate factory family, was the “last” lady of Château de Chenonceau and matron at the time of WWI. She was in charge of the hospital installed at the château’s two galleries and equipped it at her family’s expnse. More than 2,000 wounded were treated here up until 1918. Simonne also was part of the French Resistance during WWII. How appropriate that she be the last lady of Château de Chenonceau.

You can rent a boat and row beneath the arches of Château de Chenonceau on the river Cher.

A beautiful, unobstructed view of Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

The other side of Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Back to the actual château: The rooms are sumptuously decorated with paintings, tapestries, elaborate ceilings, lush wallpaper, and grand furniture. The downstairs kitchens are a chef’s dream, which includes a pantry with fireplace and bread oven, dining room for employees, butchery with hooks to hang game and blocks for chopping, and lots of polished copper pans.

The Chapel, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

My favorite room – the Gallery. It was once Diane de Poitier’s bridge, but in 1576, Catherine de’ Medici had Jean Bullant build a gallery upon Diane’s bridge, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Part of the amazing kitchens! This is the dining room where the employees ate, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Part of the amazing kitchens, this room shows just some of the copperware on the wall, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

I’m fascinated by beds in these châteaux. This room is in memory of Gabrielle d’Estrées, the favorite and great love of King Henri IV, and mother to his legitimate son Cesar of Vendôme, Château de Chenonceau.

Catherine de’ Medici’s bedroom leads to two small apartments, which form the exhibition rooms. This exhibition room presents a magnificent ceiling decorated with a canvas painting, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

The Five Queens’ Bedroom, a name given to this bedroom in memory of Catherine de’ Medici’s two daughters and three daughters-in-law. The walls are decorated with a suite of 16th-century Flanders tapestries. The fireplace is Renaissance, the 16th-century coffer ceiling comes from the apartments of Louise of Lorraine and bears the coats of arms of the five Queens, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

A beautiful carved cabinet cornered by wall-length tapestries, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

The staircase bears sculpted leaves representing the Old Testament. It is notable for being one of the first straight staircase to be built in France based on the Italian model, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

A tapestry displayed in the new Medici Gallery, which unveils a previously unseen collection of paintings, tapestries, furniture, and pieces of art, Château de Chenonceau, Chenondeaux, France.

The grounds are so massive, we didn’t get to everything on the property. We appreciated Diane’s Garden and Catherine’s Garden. While we did make our way to the center of the Italian maze, created with 2,000 yews, we didn’t get to the carriage gallery, the 16th-century farm, the Orangery (tea room), and the vegetable and flower garden, which supplies the beautiful arrangements that adorned many of the rooms in the château.

Jacob and Isabella contemplating Catherine’s Garden, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Catherine’s Garden: Looking out over the water and the park, its paths offer magnificent views of the château’s west facade. Its design centers around five lawns, grouped around a circular pond and dotted with rounded box hedges, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Another view of Catherine’s Garden, which is “bordered by a low wall, lined with pleached ‘Clair Matin’ roses, that overhangs the moat. Standard roses and borders of lavender, pruned low and round, trace out a harmonious design,” Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

On the other side is Diane’s Garden. “Two perpendicular and two diagonal paths border eight large, lawned triangles decorated with delicate scrolls of santolina,” Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Diane’s Garden: “The raised terraces taht protect the garden when water levels rise in the river Char are decorated with urns, and offer a chance to discover the shrubs, yew trees, spindle trees, box hedges, and viburnum tinus arranged around the beds,” Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Diane’s Garden: “In the summer, more than a hundred hibiscus syriacus flower here. Between these flowering shrubs, flowerbeds underline this garden’s strict geometry,” Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Diane’s Garden: “In Autumn, pansies alternate with daisies and flower throughout Winter. In Spring, petunias, tobacco plants, dwarf dahlias, verbena, and begonias are planted out and bide their time until the next Autumn. All around the garden, the walls that support the terraces are clad with ‘iceberg’ climbing roses,” Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Making our way through the maze. I can just see where I need to go, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Ah, we made it to the center, a raised gloriette, a small monument covered with flourishing willow, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Amazingly, 10 gardeners grow more than a hundred different varieties of flowers, which two full-time florists source for the interior floral decoration, and more than 400 rose bushes! I was so inspired by the floral arrangements; while David was taking photos of the rooms – the furniture and paintings and wall and ceiling decorations – I was mesmerized by the floral arrangements. I had so many photos that I had to severely curate my flower photos. What a heavenly position to secure as full-time florist for Château de Chenonceau!

The first of eight curated floral arrangement photos, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceux, France.

A close-up of another beautiful floral arrangement, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

A row of bouquets that matches the room it’s in, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Ethereal floral arrangement, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Close-up of another purple floral arrangement, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Floral arrangement, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Airy floral arrangement, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

This château was a family favorite in the Loire Valley; it was going to be difficult to top this place. After lunch at the restaurant on the grounds, we headed for our next château.

Beautiful woods near the maze, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Along the walkway back to the entrance and exit of Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France. We saw muskrats coexisting peacefully with the ducks in the pond.

Au revoir, Château de Chenonceau!

Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire
The Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire is tucked away in the quiet town of Chaumont. The grounds are quite expansive and require a bit of an uphill hike to reach it, but the effort is worth it and the view of the Loire River is spectacular. The château was founded around the year thousand by Odo I. Later, a Norman knight shored up its fortress, but he and his son, who had no heir, passed it on to his great-niece whose family by marriage, the d’Amboise family, retained the château for the next five centuries. In 1465, Louis XI had Chaumont burned to the ground to punish Pierre I d’Amboise over an aristocratic revolt against the king. Once pardoned, Pierre and his son – and later his uncle – began rebuilding the château. In 1550, Catherine de Medici bought the chateau, which was profitable from the toll on the Loire and numerous farming plots. She used Chaumont-sur-Loire as a hunting ground and stopping place when she traveled between Château d’Amboise and Blois. After Diane de Poitiers was given Château de Chaumont after surrendering Château de Chenonceau to Catherine de Medici, Diane continued with Chaumont’s construction – though she rarely stayed there – up until her death in 1566. The château’s current appearance is credited to de Poitiers’ hand in its restoration.

David said that Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire looks like a Disneyland castle. I keep think of Lord Farquaat from Shrek. Still, I think this is a beautiful château.

Another view of Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire, with the green lawn and rows of lavender.

The courtyard of the Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

A view of the Loire River from the top of Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

Another view of the Loire River from the viewing platform at the top of Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

Before you get to the château, this pathway is lined with adorable covered chairs that face the Loire River, Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

The château survived many owners during the Age of Enlightenment and the Romantic Era. Another interesting, though tragic story: The last private owner, Marie-Charlotte-Constance Say, heir to the Say sugar refineries and princess by marriage to Henri-Amédée de Broglie, implemented many changes to the château, making it grand for receptions for many European and Eastern sovereigns. Through reckless speculation by the director of the Say sugar refineries, the de Broglie family lost a third of its fortunes. After Henri-Amédée’s death, his widow Marie-Charlotte-Constance mismanaged her remaining fortunes, which was further decimated by the Wall Street Crash of 1929. Despite marriage to another royal, who was 31 years her junior, Marie-Charlotte-Constance and her husband encountered numerous financial setbacks and were forced to divide up the Domaine de Chaumont. In 1937, the French State launched an expropriation procedure “in the public interest” and took possession of the property in 1938, including the tapestry collection and furniture that the State deemed historical. A national monument, the Domaine became regional in 2007.

King Henri I’s emblem, the porcupine, is seen throughout the château, particularly above fireplaces, Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

The elaborately decorated and colorful Chapel, Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

Detail of stained-glass window coat of arms, Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

Beautiful carved column and spiral staircase, Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

Yes, that’s me taking a photo of the dining room, which boasts an incredible fireplace (in the background) by Antoine Margotin, Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

Sugar sculpture under glass in one of the rooms of Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

Somebody’s bedroom! Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

In the Upper Galleries at the Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire, a 2018 tribute to Jacques Truphémus called Paysages, highlights his works. Balthus regarded Truphémus as the greatest French painter.

Floral arrangement at the Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

One more porcupine emblem at the Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

The expansive grounds include stables, a model farm, greenhouse, vegetable and children’s garden, gardeners court galleries, bee farm, among other structures and points of interest. The Domain of Chaumont-sur-Loire is the “foremost Centre of Art and Nature entirely devoted to the relationship between nature and culture, artistic creation and the impact of landscape, our heritage and contemporary art.” From late March to early November, contemporary art exhibitions and installations are set up in the château, Prés du Goualoup, farmyard, stables, and historic grounds. For the Domain de Chaumont-sur-Loire International Garden Festival, which runs from late April to early November, this year’s theme was Gardens of Thought. The garden festival is “a mecca of garden projects and landscape design” – installations by contemporary artists, photography exhibitions, and gardens of creation. Just walking the length of the gardens would require half a day. We loved exploring the gardens, finding one surprise or treasure after another. One can’t rush through the garden and fully appreciate the beauty of nature and art entwined and the inspiration of these artists. Well, we did rush through it, though we did appreciate the gardens. I would absolutely come back to Chaumont and spend a day here.

Reflecting pond, Domain of Chaumont-Sur-Loire International Garden Festival.

Lone maple tree and its reflection, Domain of Chaumont-sur-Loire International Garden Festival.

The grounds of Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

Flowers of Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

My favorite garden photo of the Valley of Mist, International Garden Festival, Domain de Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

We had to rush through the gardens to get back to Amboise in time for Isabella’s horseback riding lesson late in the afternoon. A horseback ride was the request, but a riding lesson was just as appreciated by our horse-loving daughter. David, Jacob, and I were content to hang out and try to avoid the heat of the day while Isabella trotted around with Flo, her French horse.

Isabella and Flo, Amboise.

Exhausted from a very full and warm day, we got lazy and had another dinner at home, which I didn’t mind since our Amboise home was the most inviting abode we’ve had on our vacation.

A Little Free Library installation on a street in Amboise, France.

Behind our street is a wall of a stony hill and there are actually homes built into the stone in Amboise. Amazing.

Family vacation in France: Day 12 from Mont St-Michel to Amboise

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Beauty perishes in life, but is immortal in art.
– Leonardo da Vinci

My bales of hay, Brittany countryside, France.

A picture of David taking a picture of the bales of hay so you can appreciate the scale, Brittany countryside, France.

We left Mont St-Michel early in the morning after breakfast. We drove for the longest part of our travels – about three-ish hours – to the Loire Valley. Our destination was the town of Amboise. The Loire River, stretching east to west, separates northern and southern France. Historically, the river and its fertile valley have been significant, as the Moors leveraged the Loire as they marched from Morocco into Europe. We arrived midday and ate lunch at La Scala along Amboise’s main street, Quai du Général de Gaulle, before meeting our host and getting situated in our AirBnB house. We stayed in a delightful three-story Medieval-style house with a deck not too far away, about a 10-minute walk, from the Château d’Amboise.

My seafood pasta lunch at La Scala, Amboise.

Our Amboise AirBnB house, named La Tortue (the turtle) on Rue Victor Hugo.

The patio/entry area of our AirBnB house in Amboise, Loire Valley.

To the left of the entry is the ground-floor bedroom where Isabella and Jacob stayed. They had their own bathroom, and we had a washing machine. The only complaint from the kids was the house centipedes that crawled on their feet when they were in the bathroom!

The ground-floor level has a spiral staircase that takes you to the second floor of our AirBnB house in Amboise.

The second floor of our AirBnB house in Amboise comprises the dining, kitchen, living areas, plus the deck.

Our AirBnB house’s kitchen on the second floor, Amboise.

The living area of our Amboise AirBnB house. Jacob and Isabella pounced on the directions for connecting to the Wi-Fi.

The deck, off of the dining area on the second floor, that faces the stone walls for privacy at our Amboise abode.

Ascend the second-floor stairs to get to the top floor in our Amboise house.

The little sitting area of our master bedroom on the third floor of our Amboise house.

On the right side of our bed is a door leading to a sheltered view of greenery and stone mountain.

To the right is the master bathroom. Note the Medieval wood bracing throughout this beautiful house!

The beautiful wood staircase in our Amboise house.

Aside from its wines and agricultural bounty, especially apples or pommes, the Loire Valley is famous for the more than a thousand castles and palaces that are situated on its beautiful land. It became fashionable for Sixteenth-century royalty, especially those who loved to hunt, to ditched medieval castles for rich Renaissance palaces. According to Rick Steves, “Old-time aristocratic château-owners, struggling with the cost of upkeep, enjoy financial assistance from the government if they open their mansions to the public.” Given that Amboise is on the east side of the valley versus the west side, we were going to concentrate on seeing châteaux in this area.

Château d’Amboise, Loire Valley.

The Orléans-Penthièvre study houses a succession of late 18th century portraits showing the maternal grandfather and parents of the future French King Louis Philippe 1er, Château d’Amboise.

Soaring ceilings at Château d’Amboise.

The great part of Château d’Amboise was built in the late 15th century and was Charles VIII’s favorite royal residence in the Loire. Other residents included Louis XII and François I, who is responsible for bringing Leonardo da Vinci to Amboise in 1516. More on this later. The château has been open to the public since the 19th century. Visitors enter “the interior of the Royal Château of Ambois via the former foot soldiers’ passage, which was originally defended by a draw-bridge and portcullis. The gallery is decorated with the coats and arms of the château’s successive owners, from the 11th to the 19th centuries.” From the top of the castle – its Tour Garçonnnet – as well as from the edge of the gardens, you can appreciate the Loire River.

From the Tour Garçonnnet, Château d’Amboise.

To the left of the Tour Garçonnnet, you can see the Loire River and the roads and town of Amboise.

To the right of the Tour des Minimes of Château d’Amboise are homes along the Loire River. You can see the remains of a bridge that was bombed out during WWII.

From the Tour des Minimes of the Château d’Amboise, you can see the Naples Terrace gardens.

A close-up view of the Naples Terrace garden from the Tour des Minimes, Château d’Amboise.

“During the Renaissance, the king made a palace out of this château. It was a symbol of his power, center for political, economic, and artistic activity. It also stands in memory of an historical turning point, when different styles and trends from Flanders and Italy mixed. Italy, coveted by France during the entire first half of the 16th century, was also admired for its artistic vitality. Monarchs thus invited to Amboise many Italian artists and writers whose influence blended with French tastes to create the original style of the “Early French Renaissance.”

In the Cupbearer’s room, a tapestry of Queen Esther’s banquet, Aubusson Royal manufacture, 17th century, and bust, Château d’Amboise. “This room recalls the customs of the King’s table, where cupbearers served drinks. Medieval trestles were replaced with “Italian-style” tables. They were richly decorated and could be extended. The art of dining evolved slowly with the timid use of two-pronged forks (knives and spoons remained more popular until the time of Henri III).

This room, the bedchamber of King François 1er and his son Henri II, was occupied by his wife Catherine de Medici who, after his tragic death, played an active role in the affairs of the kingdom during her sons’ successive reigns. The room’s interior illustrates the introduction of perspective into 16th century decorative arts, Château d’Amboise.

The footlights along the pathway to exit of Château d’Amboise is both ghostly and ethereal.

In 1516, Leonardo da Vinci accepted the position of engineer, architect, and painter to France’s Renaissance king, François I. Allegedly, the king, who was only 22 years old at the time, brought the then-65-year-old artist and inventor to Amboise so he could “enjoy is intellectual company,” according to Rick Steve. Leonardo da Vinci is buried in the Gothic chapel, St Hubert Chapel, named in honor of the patron saint of hunters and constructed in 1493. Leonardo da Vinci dictated in his last will and testament on 23 April 1519 that he wanted to be entombed in the St Florentin church, Amboise. Upon his death on 2 May 1519, he was thus buried. His remains were exhumed and transferred to St Hubert Chapel in 1871.

The Gothic-style St Hubert Chapel, Château d’Amboise.

The stained-glass windows and ceiling of St Hubert Chapel, Château d’Amboise.

Stepping back to get a bigger picture of the interior of St Hubert Chapel, Château d’Amboise.

Light hitting the stained-glass window, St Hubert Chapel, Château d’Amboise.

The burial site of Leonardo da Vinci, St Hubert Chapel, Château d’Amboise.

Stained-glass window’s colorful reflection in the afternoon light against the stone walls, St Hubert Chapel, Château d’Amboise.

More reflections of stained-glass windows at St Hubert Chapel, Château d’Amboise.

Straight-up view of a stained-glass window, St Hubert Chapel, Château d’Amboise.

Leonardo da Vinci’s bust graces an area outside of the formal landscaped gardens. The bust marks the spot where Leonardo da Vinci was initially buried, on the spot of the St Florentin Collegiate (an 11th century Roman building). It was a very warm day we arrived, but we appreciated the symmetry and beauty of the gardens.

Bust of Leonardo da Vinci, Château d’Amboise.

The formal landscaped gardens of Château d’Amboise.

View of the Loire River from the terrace of the landscaped gardens, Château d’Amboise.

Picture frames to ponder what you see from various angles, at the top of the formal gardens, Château d’Amboise.

Another picture frame of Château d’Amboise and its formal gardens.

The Loire River from the formal gardens of Château d’Amboise.

Perfectly coiffed double row of trees at the formal gardens of Château d’Amboise.

Château d’Amboise from across the Loire River on the other side of Amboise.

We also walked around town to orient ourselves but also to enjoy our new surroundings. We were too tired to find a restaurant for dinner by the time we finished our walk. Having found the grocery store, the trusty Carrefour City, we picked up inexpensive but fantastic wine (under €9, euros) and all kinds of cheese (€2), pommes (apples), grapes, charcuterie, and voila, we had a wonderful meal at our beautiful abode. One châteaux down, four to go in the Loire Valley.

Beautiful flower I’ve never seen before along the main street of Amboise.

Bon appétit! Eating at home tonight in Amboise.

The next morning – our view of Amboise from our window.

Family vacation in France: Day 11 from Bayeux to Mont St-Michel, Part 2

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For more than a thousand years, the distant silhouette of this island abbey has sent pilgrims’ spirits soaring. Today, it does the same for tourists. Mont St-Michel, one of the top pilgrimage sites of Christendom through the ages, floats like a mirage on the horizon.
 – Rick Steves, from Rick Steve France

We left Bayeux after lunch and began our two-hour drive to Mont St-Michel, an island community in Brittany. I had seen pictures of Mont St-Michel before, and I found it surreal. David planned our trip – and kudos to him for that and for finding great accommodations in every stopover thus far – and he made sure we saw Mont St-Michel. It wasn’t on my bucket list before, but now it is and I can already cross it off my list. The road wound its way, and every now and then I would catch a glimpse of the abbey rising from the island in the distance. It is surreal to see it in person.

Approaching Mont St-Michel.

A vast mudflat surrounds Mont St-Michel and a bridge connects the island to the mainland. You can’t drive to the island. You have to park your car in these lots and take the shuttle over. We arrived mid-afternoon when the place was swarming with tourists coming and going. It’s a bit disorienting to see all these tourists and the hotels and restaurants crowding the edge of the main road. Still, we were excited the closer we got to the island.

The texture of the mudflats up close.

King’s Gate, which served as the fortified entrance during the Middle Ages, Mont St-Michel.

The Grand Rue of Mont St-Michel. This was taken on our way out, early in the morning, hence no stores open or tourists clogging the narrow street.

When we got off the shuttle, we wheeled our luggage through the cobblestone streets, up the narrow Grand Rue, main street, to check into our hotel. We followed the hotel clerk further up the street, and I wondered where our room could be and how would we remember where our room was! I’m glad we traversed higher because it isolated us somewhat from the tourist bustle on the Grand Rue. Our room was quiet and we had my desired room with a view.

The long and winding way to our hotel room, Mont St-Michel.

A cemetery on our way to our hotel room, Mont St-Michel.

Our room with a view during the daytime, Mont St-Michel.

Once we threw our luggage in and got oriented, we headed for the abbey, which was accessed by stairs leading you higher and higher on the island. Originally built beginning in A.D. 708, the current abbey is built on the remains of a Romanesque church, which was built over the remains of a Carolingian church. The abbey’s archives, which cover 1,200 years of history, were removed for preservation during WWII, though sadly most of it was destroyed during the D-Day bombing. Though many tourists and tourist groups were in attendance, the numbers dwindled, as it was late afternoon, and we took in the sights somewhat peacefully and took many photos without tourists.

It’s difficult to show photos of the abbey without having tourists in them, so we trained our cameras skyward, Mont St-Michel. Here you can see the soaring heights of the abbey.

Columns, windows, and light, the Abbey of Mont St-Michel.

Another angle of columns, ceiling, and windows, the Abbey of Mont St-Michel.

The enormous and barren rooms of the Abbey of Mont St-Michel.

From the information pamphlet at the ticket office: “The long history of Mont St-Michel is thought to date back to 708, when Aubert, Bishop of Avranches, had a sanctuary built on Mont-Tombe in honor of the Archangel. The mount soon became a major focus of pilgrimage. In the 10th century, the Benedictines settled in the abbey, while a village grew up below its walls. By the 14th century, it extended as far as the foot of the rock. An impregnable stronghold during the Hundred Years War, Mont St-Michel is also an example of military architecture. It’s ramparts and fortifications resisted all the English assaults and as a result, the Mount became a symbol of national identity. Following the dissolution of the religious community during the Revolution and until 1863, the abbey was used as a prison. Classified as a historic monument in 1874, it underwent major restoration work. Mont St-Michel has been listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO since 1979.

A time of quiet reflection in shadows and light, Mont St-Michel.

The soaring ceiling of the Abbey of Mont St-Michel.

The columns of the cloisters, Abbey of Mont St-Michel.

A darkened room, the Abbey of Mont St-Michel.

A lighter corner of the same room as above, the Abbey of Mont St-Michel.

“Saint Michael, head of the heavenly militia, was of great importance to Medieval religious sensibility. In the New Testament, Saint Michael appears in the Book of Revelation: he fights and defeats a dragon, symbol of the devil. To Medieval man living in expectation and dread of the hereafter, Saint Michael was the one who led away the dead and put their souls in the balance on the day of the last judgment.”

In 1776, a fire destroyed the west end of the church, resulting in a terrace that opens up to a grand view of the Brittany coast and countryside.

When you step out of the massive room in the picture above, you come upon this grand view terrace, which came about when a fire in 1776 destroyed the west end of the church. Here’s a panoramic view from high above the Abbey of Mont St-Michel.

Another view. You can see the road and bridge leading to Mont St-Michel.

The fertile Brittany countryside from the view of the terrace at the Abbey of Mont St-Michel.

A closer look at the countryside with rows of trees that I have grown to love here and, surprise, bales of hay! From the terrace of Mont St-Michel.

Another view of the water, from the terrace of the Abbey of Mont St-Michel.

The other side of the island is water bound. One can get dizzy looking below and seeing this building at the base of the island, Mont St-Michel.

This seagull is used to tourists taking selfies and group shots, Mont St-Michel.

View of the abbey as we descend the stairs down, Mont St-Michel.

After the abbey closed, we also stopped by St. Peter’s Church, where a statue of Joan of Arc stands by the entrance, recognizing her association with St. Michael, whose voice came to her to rise up with the French against the English. The church is dedicated to St. Peter, the patron saint of fishermen.

St. Peter’s Church is named after the patron saint of fishermen, Mont St-Michel. I am guessing that someone placed the soccer ball because France was making its way through the World Cup. Weeks later, the act must have worked because France indeed won the World Cup!

After dinner, David wanted to get photos of Mont St-Michel at night, all lit-up, so we strolled down to the mudflats and walked around to find good views while we waited for the summer sun to give way to the moon. It wasn’t cold, but it was windy. I decided to leave while it was still light, taking pictures along the way back to our room. Later that evening, David showed me his photos. You just can’t take enough pictures of Mont St-Michel.

Mussels and frites on Mont St-Michel. The food is fit for tourists. But no grocery store to get wine, cheese, bread, and charcuterie and eat with a view! Next time: Bring in dinner.

Waiting for the sun to go down on the mudflats, with Mont St-Michel in the background.

Looking up at the abbey on my way back to our hotel room, Mont St-Michel.

I gave up and headed back to our hotel room. Here’s our view from our room at night, Mont St-Michel.

The sun slowly goes down, Mont St-Michel.

The lights start coming on at Mont St-Michel.

The last picture David took before calling it a night. Beautiful, Mont St-Michel.

In the early morning, after our breakfast of chocolat chaud (hot chocolate) and croissants, we hightailed it out of Mont St-Michel. While the food trucks were unloading their goods, tourists started streaming in, by foot, by shuttle. Like water from high tide, it would soon be inundated with tourists, and we were very happy to have seen the abbey and the village without too much tourist distraction. I’m fortunate that we were able to visit Mont St-Michel. Crossed off our bucket list.

Leaving Mont St-Michel as the food trucks unload and before the tourists start their descent.

Au revoir, Mont St-Michel!