Author Archives: Patty

About Patty

Patty Enrado was born in Los Angeles and grew up in the Central Valley of California. She has an BA in English from the University of California at Davis and an MA from Syracuse University's Creative Writing Program. She lives in the San Francisco Bay Area. When she is not writing about health information technology, volunteering at her children's schools and raising her family, she is writing fiction and blogging about life after 50.

Family vacation in France: Day 10 in Bayeux

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There’s a graveyard in northern France where all the dead boys from D-Day are buried. The white crosses reach from one horizon to the other. I remember looking it over and thinking it was a forest of graves. But the rows were like this, dizzying, diagonal, perfectly straight, so after all it wasn’t a forest but an orchard of graves. Nothing to do with nature, unless you count human nature.
– Barbara Kingsolver, American novelist

On our way to our first tour stop, we encountered a cow crossing, outside of Bayeux, Normandy, France.

We got up early in the morning for our personal tour of Normandy, particularly Gold Beach (the D-Day Museum at Arromanches), Longues-Sur-Mer (the German fortifications from the Atlantic Wall), Omaha Beach (including a visit of the Military Cemetery Memorial and the Landing Beach), and Pointe du Hoc (the Ranger’s Memorial and the cliffs they had to scale). The tour was all morning. In the afternoon, we were on our own, so we added Utah Beach D-Day Museum in the town of Sainte Marie du Mont and went back to Omaha Beach to explore further. There was so much to see and so much information to let wash over us, we decided to go back to the Military Cemetery’s Visitor’s Center, since we didn’t go there in the morning, and the Overlord Museum, on our way out of Bayeux to our next destination.

The cliffs along the Utah and Omaha Beaches.

Another view of the cliffs near Omaha Beach.

It is difficult to put into words what we experienced. I’d seen the WWII movies and thought it would be an interesting history lesson, but the more details and depth we absorbed from what happened in Normandy during WWII, I grew to appreciate just what was at stake here – life, liberty, freedom – and what was sacrificed. I was so moved by my experience in Normandy. As David said when we were watching the 4th of July fireworks at the Oakland A’s game the day before July 4th and listening to the patriotic songs, he felt a depth of gratitude that he’d not fully appreciated before. I felt the same way.

The barbed wire that the Germans ran along the bluff still remains.

We were led by our guide, Antoine, who was a nice but serious fellow. Our first stop was Pointe du Hoc Ranger Monument, situated on a bluff overlooking the beaches. The Germans heavily fortified this area along the Utah and Omaha beaches. Interestingly, the cliffs are so steep that the Germans were not expecting the Allied forces to scale the cliffs, and so, they turned their guns in the opposite direction for an inland attack. The U.S. Army Rangers had other ideas. The 225 hand-picked rangers scaled the cliffs with the task of disabling the German gun battery, a move that was necessary in order for the landing of Allied forces on the beaches to be successful. Only 90 survived. Ponte du Hoc is full of eroded bunkers and craters created by 10 kilotons of bombs that were dropped within a span of seven weeks. We stood at the top of the bluff and looked in awe at the cliffs that the Rangers scaled. Amazing. The German gun battery included more than a mile of tunnels connecting its battlements. It held six 155mm guns that were capable of firing as far away as 13 miles, reaching both Omaha and Utah beaches. Despite the heavy bombing, which commenced in April 1944 until June 6th, the bunkers survived.

A bombed-out gun battery, Pointe du Hoc.

A viewing platform above one of the bunkers, Pointe du Hoc.

Inside a bombed-out bunker, Pointe du Hoc.

Plaque in one of the bunkers honoring the U.S. Rangers who gave their lives to the cause, Pointe du Hoc.

Antoine provides background as we walk the path to the Pointe du Hoc Ranger Monument, near Omaha Beach.

The Dagger Memorial represents the Dagger the Rangers used to get them up the cliffs. We walked in and out of the observation bunker, which housed the officers and enlisted soldiers’ quarters, and command room. The Rangers only had 30 minutes to get off the beach because of the rising tide. Upon reaching the bluff, they discovered that the Germans had moved and hidden the guns a half-mile inland, but the Rangers eventually found the guns and destroyed them.

The Dagger Memorial, Pointe du Hoc.

There were many informational panels along the walkway of the Pointe du Hoc Ranger Monument. Here is one: “Sacrifice: The Price of Freedom: Of the 350,000 Allied personnel who took part in the D-Day invasion, including 156,000 troops who landed on Normandy’s beaches, approximately 9,000 were casualties on June 6. By the end of the campaign for Normandy, the Allies suffered more than 200,000 casualties, including over 50,000 killed.” On the French side, “more than 90,000 French soldiers died defending France in 1939-40. Another 58,000 soldiers and approximately 20,000 members of the French Resistance died fighting alongside the Allies from 1940 through 1945. The famed French 2nd Armored Division came ashore on nearby Utah Beach and suffered more than 1,000 casualties spearheading the Allied drive into Paris. Although thousands of French civilians died during the Normandy fighting, the population continued to welcome and assist Allied troops.”

More barbed wire and treacherous cliffs, Pointe du Hoc.

Next we visited Omaha Beach. My touchstone was the film Saving Private Ryan. Standing there, where people were peacefully walking on the beach or frolicking in the water, I couldn’t comprehend what had happened here that day June 6, 1944. It’s unfathomable. Nearly half of all D-Day casualties occurred at Omaha Beach, which was nicknamed “Bloody Omaha.” We saw the metal memorial, entitled Le Braves, which was sculpted by the Parisian artist, Anilore Banon, and erected for the 60th Anniversary of the D-Day Landings. The sculpture honors the liberators, symbolizing “the rise of freedom on the wings of hope.” The sculpture was only to be displayed temporarily, but supporters rallied to keep it still standing, and so it still stands.

The Braves, 2004, the metal statue at the center of Omaha Beach.

Family portrait with The Braves, Omaha Beach.

Eight nations’ flags fly here, representing the countries who took part in the invasion, though only two American assault units landed in Omaha Beach, namely the 1st Infantry Division and the 29th Infantry Division (a National Guard citizen army unit with, understandably so, little combat experience). The mission was ill-fated for these men. Despite heavy Allied bombing before the invasion, the heavily armed Germans surrounded the four-mile-long beach above the cliffs on three sides. The 500 German soldiers and their 1 gun nests picked off the American soldiers as they disembarked the landing ships. The troops kept coming, and by the end of the day, 34,000 soldiers had landed. The Germans were eventually pushed inland. Still, it was not without great sacrifices, which were not lost on us as we stood surveying the beach.

Paragliders over Omaha Beach makes for a surreal scene.

Two bronze soldiers, commemorating the Bedford Boys. The small town of Bedford, Virginia, sent 35 men to the landing forces. Of the 35 men, 19 were killed.

Next, we visited the WWII Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial. As we approached the green grass and the rows of white crosses, I kept thinking of Saving Private Ryan, my only touchpoint for this place. How moving was standing at the edge of the grass and surveying the lines of marble tombstones – 9,386 of them. Overlooking the cemetery is a memorial with a pool and a rising statue representing the spirit of American youth. The statue is surrounded on either side by two walls depicting two enormous reliefs of the Battle of Normandy and the Battle of Europe. Behind the that memorial is the semicircular Garden of the Missing, which includes the names of 1,557 soldiers who died but whose remains were never recovered. Among the soldiers buried here are the Niland brothers, who inspired Saving Private Ryan. Other facts: Among those buried, 33 pairs are brothers lying next to one another, a father and son, 149 African Americans, 149 Jewish Americans, and four women.

The line of white, marble tombstones is a sobering sight at the WWII Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial.

A close-up of the tombstones, WWII Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial.

Another view of the crosses. I was mesmerized by them. WWII Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial.

The reflecting pool and Memorial from a distance, WWII Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial.

One wall of the Memorial depicts the Battle of Europe.

The other wall of the Memorial depicts the Battle of Normandy.

On the other side of the Memorial is the semicircular Garden of the Missing.

A close-up of the wall with the names of the soldiers whose bodies were never found.

One last look at the tombstones as they gleam and recede in the background.

The last stop of the tour, within the town of Arromanches, was Gold Beach, where the British troops landed. What’s fascinating here is that the Allies built their own port rather than try to seize a German port. In an engineering feat, within 12 days – in the midst of battle – the Allies built Port Winston, which served as the base in Normandy that aided in the liberation of France, the push to Berlin, and the end of WWII. We visited the D-Day Landing Museum (Musée du Débarquement) in Arromanches and saw dioramas, models, photographs, and videos of how the artificial harbor was built. Pretty remarkable.

Musée du Débarquement, Gold Beach.

Remnants of the man-made harbor at Gold Beach.

Eight country flags flying over Gold Beach.

That concluded our private tour. After lunch in Bayeux, we plotted our free afternoon. We hopped into our rental car and took off for other sites and returned to Omaha Beach. Along the way, we stopped for photos of the beautiful countryside.

My fascination of bales of hay in the Italian countryside carried over to France.

Queen Anne’s lace grows wild along the roadside. We ended up getting a decorative pillowcase with this beautiful flower.

Artsy photo of bales of hay with fence post and grains in the foreground, Normandy, France.

Bales of hay with French road sign, Normandy.

Stopping by an old cemetery to take photographs, Normandy.

Close-up of three tombstones in an old cemetery, Normandy.

Next stop was to the town of Saint Marie du Mont, specifically Utah Beach, a campaign that Eisenhower added late in the game. Two U.S. paratrooper units, the 82nd and the 101st Airborne Divisions, parachuted behind enemy lines the night before D-Day. Unfortunately, many landed off-target. The Germans had flooded the farmlands in the area to make a push up the peninsula to the port city of Cherbourg difficult. Tragically, many paratroopers landed in the swamps and drowned. In fact, more than 1,000 paratroopers sacrificed their lives in order to clear the way for the actual beach landing. Still, Utah Beach was overtaken within 45 minutes, with 194 American soldiers perishing, thanks to the fact that the beach was defended by conscripted Czechs, Poles, and Russians who had no skin in the game. It took three weeks, however, before the troops overtook Cherbourg.

The Germans scattered Czech hedgehogs on the beaches to keep landing crafts and tanks from penetrating the German line of defense. The hedgehogs are scattered around the Utah Beach museum.

The Utah Beach Landing Museum (Musée du Débarquement).

There are a lot of museums on D-Day scattered throughout Normandy, but the most memorable museum for me was the Utah Beach Landing Museum (Musée du Débarquement) because it highlighted the human element, the faces of the French townspeople and American soldiers, and their stories. Indeed, in 1962, Michel de Vallavieille, the mayor of Saint Marie du Mont, began his campaign to build the Utah Beach D-Day Museum as “a living expression of the town’s appreciation and gratitude for the Allies’ sacrifices.” Vallavieille, a boy during WWII, was injured by Allied bombs on his family’s farm, but he held no ill will, understanding that the bombing was necessary to liberate France and bring an end to WWII. The museum includes many panels of American soldiers and French residents sharing their stories of D-Day and their mutual support and friendship.

A statue of soldiers disembarking from their Higgins landing craft outside of the Utah Beach Landing Museum.

Inside the Utah Beach Landing Museum, a wooden Higgins landing craft.

 

The museum underwent two major extensions. Its third major extension includes a fascinating story stemming from a visit by two American brothers on June 6, 2007: “With an interest in the Second World War, David and Gene Dewhurst visit the Utah Beach D-Day Museum on a family trip. In an exhibit, they recognize a photo of their father, Major David Dewhurst, posing at the foot of his B-26 Marauder with his crew and learn that he was a decorated squadron commander, who courageously led the final bombing run on the German stronghold WN5, moments before the Allied landing at Utah Beach. The two brothers are stunned by their discovery, as their father, Major David Dewhurst, had died when they were very young, and they knew very little about him. Inspired by their visit, the brothers decide to spearhead the major renovation and expansion project that had been under review for several years. They go on to finance over a third of this ambitious project.” Four years later, in 2011, the museum reopened with 23,000-square feet of gallery space. This is an amazing museum – the best of the lot. The images stayed with me long after we left.

The B26-Martin Marauder “Dinah Might” was the U.S. Army’s high-speed medium bomber. Major David Dewhurst was the commanding officer of the squadron assigned to drop bombs on Utah Beach.

You are now entering Utah Beach.

Picking up shells for Isabella along Utah Beach.

The tide is out at Utah Beach. It’s difficult to imagine what happened here 74 years ago.

There was so much to see in one day. We breezed through some of it in order to see as much as we could. We could have stayed an extra day and it still would not have been enough to see everything. We didn’t even make it to two other beaches, Juno and Sword, which were fought by Canadian, and British and Canadian troops, respectively, let alone Dunkirk, which is farther up north. I told Jacob he’d have to return. And so must we.

At the end of the long pier at Omaha Beach, Jacob and Isabella stare out into the English Channel.

Family vacation in France: Day 9 in Bayeux

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This operation is not being planned with any alternatives. This operation is planned as a victory, and that’s the way it’s going to be. We’re going down there, and we’re throwing everything we have into it, and we’re going to make it a success.
– Dwight D. Eisenhower, American army general, statesman, and 34th President of the United States.

Picturesque Bayeux, France.

We left Rouen in the morning, but not without drama, courtesy of the tight parking spot and lane leading out the hotel underground garage! We didn’t think we needed a code to get out, but we did. The problem was, we didn’t have a code. So as we scrambled to figure out if David should call the front desk or I should go to the front desk, the car with a German couple came up behind us, making a tense situation even more stressful. The man kindly gave us the code. I got out of the car and at the entrance of the garage exit to help guide David out of the lane. But David had trouble with the stick shift, and the garage door came down. While I stood outside, I heard the car rev up and then a bang. I thought, oh no, the car backfired and hit the German couple’s car! The next thing I know, the garage door goes up and our rental car comes out, with the German man having driven it out! He said our car merely tapped his car and took off. With a sigh of relief, we took off and said au revoir to Rouen!

Water wheel and stream in Bayeux, France. Our AirBnB apartment is the building on the left with the poppies at the window sills.

As I mentioned in my first blog of our France vacation, the whole reason we came to France was because Jacob, our WWII buff, wanted to visit Normandy. So here was the crowning jewel of the trip for him. We were going to stay in Bayeux for two nights and explore the various sites of Normandy and D-Day. Before we checked into our AirBnB, we stopped off at the Musee Memorial 1944 Bataille de Normandie. This museum is dedicated to the Battle of Normandy, so lots of tanks and weapons, mannequins in various uniforms, military maps, timelines, and dioramas, and historical panels and videos. This is for the hardcore WWII military buff, which meant this was not Isabella’s cup of tea. But we were indulging Jacob, our graduate. Isabella will get her turn in three years.

Museum of the Battle of Normandy, Bayeux, France.

Display in the Battle of Normandy Museum, Bayeux, France.

One of the many tanks at the Battle of Normandy Museum, Bayeux, France.

Adjacent to the museum is the Monument to Reporters (Le Mémorial des Reporters), a beautiful garden and memorial to all the reporters who have died in the line of service, reporting on wars and other conflicts around the world since WWII to the present. The grassy walkway through this green garden with white roses bushes wends its way among standing stone tablets that list the names of those fallen, categorized by year. The monument was inaugurated on October 7, 2006. According to the Bayeux Award for War Correspondents, “in 2015, 110 journalists have perished because of their profession or in dubious circumstances. Reporters Without Borders assures that of those 110, 67 have been killed for the sole reason of being journalists. In total, 787 journalists have been killed on the job since 2005. To that number, 27 netizens and 7 media associates can be added. This worrisome situation can be explained by the peak of violence against journalists in the last decade. They are now deliberately targeted and all the efforts put toward their safety have failed so far.” We noticed that some years bore a long list of names, and we tried to match the conflict to the year. At any rate, this was a very moving tribute.

The very moving Monument to Reporters, Bayeux, France.

A shady part of the Monument to Reporters, Bayeux, France.

After lunch, we settled in our very cute apartment above a local artist’s shop and next to a stream and waterwheel. What’s more, we had a view of Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, which is yet another beautiful cathedral and as big as Paris’s Notre-Dame. Miraculously, Bayeux was spared any bombing and its cathedral and buildings remained intact, which is a gift not to just the town and France, but to all of us visiting. The cathedral is a mix of Romanesque (ground floor) and Gothic (upper floors) architecture. The high central window above the altar contains rare 13th-century stained-glass pieces.

Approaching the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Another view of the imposing Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

The entrance of the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Outside details of the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France. Note the flags of France and Great Britain flying at the top.

Stained-glass window in the upper part of the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Statue detail in the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Stained-glass windows on the ground floor of the Notre-Dame Cathedral in Bayeux, France.

Light filtering through the windows on the stairs and columns, Notre-Dame Cathedral in Bayeux, France. And no tourists!

Jacob and Isabella goofing off in front of the timeline, Notre-Dame Cathedral in Bayeux, France.

Upper-floor windows and ceilings of Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Beautiful stained-glass windows in the upper floors, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Ground-floor stained-glass windows, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

The altar, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Close-up of the altar, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Curves and light, columns like folds of heavy cloth, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

More stained-glass windows, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

The other side of the steps – light and shadows and no tourists, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Gargoyle detail, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

The Tapisserie de Bayeux Museum was steps from our apartment. You can’t take any pictures of the actual tapestry, which was made in the 11th century, but I can share its history and story. Once believed to have been displayed in the cathedral’s nave, the tapestry, which spans 70 yards, is made of wool embroidered onto a linen cloth. A historical document meant to inform the largely illiterate citizenry, the tapestry tells the story of William the Conqueror’s journey from duke of Normandy to king of England. William successfully battled England’s King Harold at the Battle of Hastings in 1066.

The Bayeux Tapestry museum is literally a stone’s throw from our apartment in Bayeux, France.

The tapestry is housed in this enormous building in Bayeux, France.

Today was a nice introduction to Bayeux and set us up for our big half-day tour of Normandy for tomorrow.

The kids by the oft-photographed water wheel and stream, which runs alongside our apartment in Bayeux, France.

A very cute shop operated by an artist who painted many of the poppy and other designs on canvas and textiles is the ground floor of our two-story apartment in Bayeux, France.

A room with our view: Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

The view of Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France, at night.

Family vacation in France: Day 8 in Rouen

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It’s on the strength of observation and reflection that one finds a way. So we must dig and delve unceasingly.
 – Claude Monet, French Impressionist painter

While the rest of the family was excited for our next leg of the trip, I was very sad to leave Paris. For one, it was nice staying in one place for a while. I loved the energy of the city. I am definitely an urban dweller compared to the rest of the family. I also wanted to keep exploring other neighborhoods; there’s so much more to see and do. But it just means I must return to Paris. We got our taste of what it’s like to drive through Paris and to get to Charles de Gaulle Airport, a city unto itself. Gridlock. We rented a car at the airport and thus began the driving journey part of our trip.

The kids’ room with a view from the Mercure Hotel in Rouen: the medieval town.

Our room with a view at the Mercure Hotel, Rouen.

First stop was Rouen, about 84 miles northwest of Paris and 1.5 hours on the road. We figured out the toll system – which signs to follow to get into the right lanes for pay by credit card! It was our first stay at a hotel, the Mercure Hotel in Rouen. We had an adventure driving on cobbled streets through barricades to get to the hotel’s underground parking lot, and another adventure parking the car in the very tiny stall. No doubt we were an amusement to the German tourists who parked their two cars with ease. David gets a gold star for driving, driving stick shift, and coming up with alternatives when our British-speaking GPS system led us astray (she was more accurate than our GPS system in Italy, but she was not without error).

The medieval town of Rouen.

See the half-timbered homes in Rouen.

This Gothic structure houses city administration offices.

The bulge of the half-timbered buildings is characteristic of the medieval homes dating back to the early 1500s in Rouen.

Rouen is a 2,000-year-old city that boasts medieval half-timbered houses and Gothic architecture. In its heyday, Rouen was the country’s second-largest city next to Paris with 40,000 residents. The Normans made Rouen its capital in the ninth century. It was home to William the Conqueror before he moved to England. Joan of Arc, whom I vividly remember learning about when I was a child, was burned at the stake here in 1431. She was canonized in 1920 and later became the patron saint of France. Sadly, in April 1944, Allied bombers destroyed 50 percent of Rouen as they sought to break down the Germans’ control of Normandy leading up to the D-Day landings. Once we checked in (see our amazing room with a view), we immediately hit the cobbled streets, admiring the Gothic structures that house city administration. We admired the medieval structures that are still standing. You’ll notice that they bulge out, a characteristic that authenticates the age of the building.

An open-air market near the town square, Rouen.

The Big Clock in Rouen.

An antique/vintage shop in Rouen. I found a couple of chairs I would have loved to have brought home.

Always scenic – a French flower shop, Rouen.

We visited the Joan of Arc Church, Eglise Jeanne d’Arc, a modern church that was completed in 1979. The town’s Normandy Nordic roots is captured in the church’s Scandinavian architecture. The church boasts 16th-century windows, which were salvaged from a church that was bombed during WWII. Nearby the town square is a restaurant called Restaurant La Couronne, supposedly the oldest restaurant in France, but also made famous by American chef and author Julia Child. In 1949, Child ate her first French meal here and thus changed her culinary world and the American culinary scene. We did not eat dinner here, though it would have been cool to do so. Next time.

Stained-glass windows in the Joan of Arc Church, Rouen.

Statue of Joan of Arc, Joan of Arc Church, Rouen.

The Scandinavian architecture of the Joan of Arc Church, Rouen. See how the windows look like eyes with a helmet on top!

Restaurant La Couronne, made famous by Julia Child, Rouen.

The main reason we came to Rouen was to see the Notre-Dame Cathedral, which was made famous by the many different studies Claude Monet painted of the Gothic façade at different times of the day. Constructed between the 12th and 14th centuries, the cathedral endured lightning strikes and wars. In fact, the cathedral was bombed in WWII required extensive rebuilding. It’s a gorgeous cathedral. No wonder Monet painted it several times.

Notre-Dame Cathedral of Rouen. Hold your breath!

A close-up of a the frilly Gothic architecture of Notre-Dame Cathedral, Rouen.

Another view of the facade of the Notre-Dame Cathedral at Rouen.

Even closer, a detail of Notre-Dame Cathedral, Rouen.

Statues on the facade of Notre-Dame Cathedral, Rouen.

Stepping into Notre-Dame Cathedral at Rouen.

The ceiling of Notre-Dame Cathedral, Rouen.

A quiet, reflective moment at Notre-Dame Cathedral at Rouen.

David’s view of the light hitting the stairs, Notre-Dame Cathedral at Rouen.

In a twist on Who Wore It Best?, my version of the same stairs, Notre-Dame Cathedral, Rouen.

Statues at Notre-Dame Cathedral, Rouen.

Statues in light and shadows, Notre-Dame Cathedral, Rouen.

We dined at La Petite Auberge (164 rue Martainville), which is a Rick Steves recommendation. It’s nearby the equally impressive St. Maclou Church (Eglise St. Maclou). Isabella surprised us all by eating a whole big bowl of mussels. We ate outdoors, and while it was a cool Normandy evening, the wind died down enough for us to enjoy our meal. We only stayed one night in Rouen. Traffic in Paris ate up our hours. It may be one of the times when you say, we’ll return and stay a while.

Our restaurant, La Petite Auberge, was right around the corner from St. Maclou Church, Rouen.

Somebody was being funny. Jacob had his first glass of wine our first night at Galerie Kitchen Bistro, but once he turned 18, he started drinking wine with us during meals. He is getting used to it, trying to discern the change in taste when you pair wine with food.

Salmon salad, served two ways for David, La Petite Auberge, Rouen.

Goat cheese salad for me, La Petite Auberge, Rouen.

Isabella’s goat cheese and crouton salad, La Petite Auberge, Rouen.

David’s steak with cheese sauce and mushrooms, La Petite Auberge, Rouen.

My zucchini lasagna was a little overdone, but still worthy, La Petite Auberge, Rouen.

Isabella’s mussels! At La Petite Auberge, Rouen. She ate the whole thing.

Isabella’s chocolate fondant with creme anglaise, La Petite Auberge, Rouen.

It got dark after 10pm, which is when we finished our only dinner in Rouen at La Petite Auberge.

Family vacation in France: Day 7 in Paris

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Oh Paris
From red to green all the yellow dies away
Paris Vancouver Hyeres Maintenon New York and the Antilles
The window opens like an orange
The beautiful fruit of light
(“Windows”)”
 ― Guillaume Apollinaire, French poet, writer, art critic, from Zone

Today, Thursday, June 21st, was our last full day in Paris. It was Summer Solstice, which means Paris celebrates with live music and revelry in the streets across the city. It was Jacob’s 18th birthday, which means he can now vote and drink wine in France, which is something that he did on a regular basis the rest of our vacation here. We also met up with friends from El Cerrito who were also visiting Paris at the same time. It was a special last day in Paris and summer day period.

Happy Birthday to Jacob, who turned 18 atop Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris! What a memorable birthday for you!

We got up early and returned to the Paris Catacombs, and we successfully got in with the second wave of entrants. “The ossuary known as the Catacombs was created in the late 18th century in abandoned underground quarries dating from the 15th century in the locality of ‘Tombe-Issoire.’ The first bones were transferred here from what was the largest Parisian cemetery at the time, the Saints-Innocents Cemetery, located in the ‘Les Halles’ district. The cemetery was closed in 1780, at the request of the municipality, due to concerns for safety. The Quarry Department, created by a decree of the Royal Council on 4 April 1777 with the aim of protecting and fortifying the Parisian subsoil, was put in charge of choosing and developing the site for the ossuary. Little by little, these former limestone quarries began to house the bones from all the cemeteries of central Paris, particularly during the urban development work carried out by Prefect Haussmann, up until 1860. Beginning in the early 19th century, the Catacombs were opened to the public, creating a wave of curiosity that attracted a growing number of visitors.”

The Paris Catacombs – enter at your own risk!

After a descent of stairs, we enter the depths of Paris and its series of pathways.

Apparently, something happened in 1859….

The organizers of the ossuary were very meticulous about stacking the bones and skulls. I was impressed!

And they were very creative in how they stacked the bones, too, in the Paris Catacombs!

Something happened in 1787, too, at the Paris Catacombs.

I can attest to the fact that this is a very popular attraction in Paris. The tour route is quite long. You access the galleries via a staircase of 130 steps leading to 20 meters underground. These long, narrow corridors follow the paths of the streets above ground. It was a fascinating tour, with only a handful of people being let in at a time, which greatly enhanced the experience of exploring the underground. I’m glad we went, as strange an experience as it was. It was literally like looking at the history of Paris as if they were layers of sediment, given the years listed for various events.

Clearly, we were enamored with the bones and especially the skulls, at the Paris Catacombs.

How many photos can one take of bones and skulls? Apparently a lot. I curated carefully, at the Paris Catacombs.

After we emerged from the underbelly of Paris, we walked back to Notre-Dame Cathedral and finally got a chance to ascend the towers to catch yet another view of the city from above. Isabella especially appreciated the ascent, given her affinity for The Hunchback of Notre Dame.

We’ve seen city views from the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe, and now Notre-Dame Cathedral. It never gets old.

Another view of the Seine River and one of the spires of Notre-Dame Cathedral, Paris.

The gargoyle’s view from atop Notre-Dame Cathedral Tower, Paris.

What these statues have witnessed through history! Notre-Dame Cathedral Tower, Paris.

The gargoyle atop Notre-Dame Cathedral, with the Seine River and the Eiffel Tower in the background, Paris.

One last sweeping view of Paris from atop the Notre-Dame Cathedral Tower, Paris.

We wandered around the Island of Saint Louis, which was fast becoming my favorite neighborhood of our time in Paris. The shops were so colorful and quaint.

Quaint street of shops on rue Saint Louis en l’Isle, Paris.

Sweet shop on rue Saint Louis en l’Isle, Paris.

More quaint shops along rue Saint Louis en l’Isle, Paris.

Puppet shop! On rue Saint Louis en l’Isle, Paris.

My friend Laura recommended this patisserie and ice cream shop. It was always closed when we came by. So now it’s open and we had to try to many flavors…. rue Saint Louis en l’Isle, Paris.

We chose well with our ice cream flavors! At rue Saint Louis en l’Isle, Paris.

Remember this beautiful shop, Galerie Kara. We would return on our last full day from Versailles to Paris to get my “butterfly” earrings, rue Saint Louis en l’Isle, Paris.

Our last day walking on the many bridges over the Seine River and enjoying the beautiful trees lining the banks.

For the most part, Isabella and Jacob got along really well. They were best buds on this vacation. Sharing one of many moments on the bridges overlooking the Seine River, Paris.

Artful photo of the Seine River and colorful tables on the banks, Paris.

We met up with our friends, Yoko and Bruce Keilin, and their kids. Our sons were on the same traveling baseball team for several years, and Bruce and David were part of the coaching crew for the Hornets. It was really nice to meet up with them for dinner at Le Caveau de l’Isle (36, rue Saint Louis en l’Isle, 75004 Paris), where we had eaten a few nights before.

Yoko Keilin and me on the Saint Louis Bridge over the Seine River, Paris. It was windy and cold!

Sharing good wine with friends at Le Caveau de l’Isle, Paris.

Taking a picture of Bruce and David. You can see Yoko and me in the mirror, Le Caveau de l’Isle, Paris.

This salad looks familiar – it was delicious the first time, so I ordered it again this time, at Le Caveau de l’Isle, Paris.

David’s meat and potatoes, Le Caveau de l’Isle, Paris.

My duck confit and potatoes. I was spoiled with duck confit at the other restaurants, but this one was good, at Le Caveau de l’Isle, Paris. Very artfully presented.

Afterwards, we walked around the neighborhood to hear the music and see the sites. It was freezing and windy, which was quite the opposite of the night before when it was hot late in the evening! We didn’t stay out late because we ill-dressed for this kind of weather! We also had to pack up, as we were heading out of Paris in the morning. We said good night to the Keilins and returned for one last night in our AirBnB apartment in such a wonderful neighborhood in Paris. I was really sad to be leaving this bustling, lively city. I can’t wait to return, but other parts of France beckoned to us. Happy Summer Solstice, Happy Birthday to Jacob!

A popular music act that we stayed and listened to on Summer Solstice, Paris.

A lively Summer Solstice celebration outside of Notre-Dame Cathedral with the Keilin and Enrado-Rossi families.

Family vacation in France: Day 6 in Paris

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It took me time to understand my waterlilies. I had planted them for the pleasure of it; I grew them without ever thinking of painting them.
 – Claude Monet, French Impressionist painter

There are many day-trip destinations from Paris, depending upon how you create your itinerary – Versailles, Chartres, Giverny. We had planned an overnighter in Versailles, but no such trip planned for either Chartres or Giverny. We decided to take a bus tour to Giverny. In retrospect, I would have included an overnighter somehow to Giverny. The bus tour roundtrip was longer than our actual time in Giverny, especially with the traffic getting back into Paris, and I would have loved to have spent time in the town of Giverny, where Claude Monet is buried and the streets are lined with many shops, including antique shops. Next time!

The print shop where we purchased our etching of the Paris park chairs. That’s Jacob and Isabella, and I’m peering in the window again.

We didn’t have time to stand in line for the Catacombs in the morning because we were off to a late start, so we walked around the neighborhood. We wandered into F. Charbonnel, a shop for engravers, lithographers, and woodcut/linocut artists, because we saw an etching of the park chairs in the window. We purchased the etching, an “aquatinte,” titled “Aux Tuileries” by Corinne Lepeytre. Aquatinte is an intaglio printmaking technique, a variant of etching. In intaglio printmaking, the artist makes marks on the plate that are capable of holding ink.

From the bus window, a view of the French countryside outside of Paris.

A medieval bridge that was bombed out during WWII, right before the town of Giverny.

After a quick lunch near the Louvre, we boarded our tour bus to Giverny, which took about 1.5 to two hours for the 50-mile trek. We got there about three in the afternoon. Once we got into the garden, we were wall to wall with other tourists. It was also very hot. The crowds thinned out after an hour or so, and we were able to enjoy parts of Claude Monet’s enchanting home, beautiful garden, and surreal waterlily pond. In 1883, Monet, his wife Alice, and their blended family of eight children settled in the pink and green farmhouse, and he spent some 40 years at Giverny.

Every imaginable color of dahlia was in Monet’s Garden.

A cheerful bright dahlia in Monet’s Garden.

I think this is an onion. Whatever it is, I love it and have seen it all over Paris. I’d love to grow this in my garden.

The grand alley that splits Monet’s garden in two and leads to his farmhouse.

Commemorating my painting as an undergraduate of the grand alley with a photo of me beside it.

I’ve long admired Monet’s water lily paintings. Seeing them in person at the Orangerie Museum takes one’s breath away. And being in his beloved garden – especially for this gardener! – was magical (once the crowds thinned, of course). At every turn, we came upon different kinds and colors of lilies and dahlias and flowers I’d never seen before. The garden is symmetrically laid out in beds. A “grand alley” splits the garden in two and sports arches of iron trellises with climbing roses all the way down the alley. I had to take a picture of this. When I was at UC Davis and thought I was going to minor in art, I took a painting class taught by the famed painter, Wayne Thiebaud. Our last assignment was the “imitate a masterpiece.” I immediately thought of imitating an Impressionist painter because I thought it would be easy for me to do, given that painting was a major weakness of mine (drawing is another story). At any rate, I chose Monet’s entrance – the grand alley – to his Giverny farmhouse. Needless to say, it was a disaster and it was embarrassing to put it up against my classmates’ amazing imitation masterpieces. I put down my brushes and paints after that class and didn’t pursue the minor. But being at the entrance of the grand alley, I surely appreciated the beauty Monet saw and the desire to immortalize such beauty with his paintings.

Even the outside of the farmhouse is colorful!

Selfie with Isabella in front of the farmhouse.

The house is pretty amazing – colorful, full of paintings and his beloved Japanese prints, homey yet grand. I loved walking through the rooms. I loved the yellow dining room and the blue kitchen. I loved the warmth of the bedrooms, and his study where I picture reading books and writing and being creative.

One side of the dining room – the hearth and more Japanese prints.

The cheery yellow dining area.

Paintings in the study. The walls are full of paintings.

Another part of Monet’s study. It’s an enormous room.

One of the cozy bedrooms.

A view of Monet’s Garden from a bedroom on the second floor.

After touring the house and the gardens, we took the pedestrian tunnel under the main road to get to the Water Garden. I think we all took a million pictures of the Japanese bridges, the weeping willows, the pond full of life and water lilies. We actually got some pictures without tourists in it, no small feat. I could have stayed here for hours, just sitting and gazing at the colors, the light, the reflections in the water. It’s very peaceful. We didn’t have much time for the entire tour, but I’m glad we came. The town and the gardens demand another visit!

Monet’s Water Garden. Almost no tourists in this photo!

Weeping willows, lilies, and water lilies.

Close-up of the water lilies.

The Japanese bridge in the background from our vantage point of another bridge.

A burst of pink flowers amid the water lilies in Monet’s Water Garden.

No tourists in this picture of Monet’s Water Garden.

Reflections of a brilliant sky and clouds in Monet’s Water Garden.

More reflections in Monet’s Water Garden.

Isabella in Monet’s Water Garden.

When we arrived back in Paris, we got tickets for the Batobus water taxi, which does a loop on the Seine, stopping at all of the major monuments and museums. This was something Isabella wanted to do. We caught it at the Orsay Museum dock and sailed through Saint-Germain-Des Prés, Notre-Dame, Jardin des Planties,Cité de la Mode, Hotel de Ville, the Louvre, and then we got off at Champs-Elysées in search of dinner in that area. We ate dinner at Le Ponthieu (51 Avenue Franklin Roosevelt 75008, Paris) since we were going to walk to the Eiffel Tower to take night photos. Isabella and I had confit canard, which was very good. Our poor waiter, who apologized for knowing little English – and we apologized for our lack of French – was running around waiting on all the tables. We were burning up, despite having our table near the open patio. It must have been in the 80s at nine in the evening! We left him with a nice tip for trying to take care of us.

An excellent duck confit and the best, creamiest potatoes au gratin ever.

Approaching the Eiffel Tower as the sun goes down close to 10 in the evening.

So many people were out taking photos of the Eiffel Tower at night. We took some amazing pictures and left before eleven. The taxis were charging exorbitant prices for the straight shot back to our apartment, so we stubbornly said no and walked the entire way. We walked mostly along the Seine to avoid traffic, but also to enjoy the people who were dining picnic-style along the waterfront and those who were dancing and frolicking at riverside restaurants. As I walked on, I kept thinking how I would have loved to have lived this kind of carefree life in my twenties! My feet were tired by the time we reached the Orsay Museum. We stopped on the wooden foot bridge so David could take more amazing photos of the Eiffel Tower. It was midnight by the time we got back to our apartment. It had to have been the hottest night in Paris for us thus far. But such weather allowed us to enjoy the very long walk from the Eiffel Tower to close to Notre-Dame Cathedral. I need to find out the distance so I can see how many steps we took! At least such a walk is burning the calories from all that good food we are eating.

The Eiffel Tower at night, with the half moon on the right.

Another view of the Eiffel Tower and the moon.

Looking straight up at the Eiffel Tower all lit up.

And now the family selfie with the Eiffel Tower.

The graceful curve of the Eiffel Tower at night.

One last picture of the Eiffel Tower before we head back home.

Looking back at the Eiffel Tower, with the moon rising.

One last look at the Eiffel Tower from the wooden foot bridge over the Seine River.

On the other side of the wooden foot bridge over the Seine is the Orangerie Museum. Good night, Paris!

Family vacation in France: Day 5 in Paris

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The last time I saw Paris.
Her heart was warm and gay.
 – Oscar Hammerstein II, American writer, theatrical producer, and theatre director of musicals

On Tuesday, we ventured to nearby Saint-Chapelle, a Gothic church built between 1242 and 1248 for King Louis IX – the only French king who is now a saint. Saint-Chapelle has the most amazing stained glass ever. Words can’t describe what photos can just barely do justice. The first floor, or basement, was built for staff and commoners. The ceiling is painted with fleurs-de-lis.

The Gothic architecture of Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

Detail of Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

When you first walk into Saint-Chapelle, you are enchanted.

Assuming this is Saint Louis? At Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

Then you climb the spiral staircase to the Chapelle Haute and you are overwhelmed by the 15 separate panels of stained glass. According to Rick Steves, there are 6,500 square feet of stained glass, which is about two thirds of its 13th-century original. More than 1,100 Biblical scenes are depicted, from Creation in Genesis to the end of the world. Taken together, you really have to sit back and take it all in, after taking all those pictures!

Once you come up to the main floor, you will be floored by the stained glass.

More stained glass beauty at Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

Another view of the stained glass, Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

One of the 15 panels, Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

Another awesome view, Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

Close-up of the stained glass center, Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

Detail of a stained-glass panel, Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

After taking our fill of Saint-Chapelle, we walked quite a ways to the Musée Picasso (Picasso Museum), which houses the largest collection of his work in the world. We are talking some 400 paintings, sculptures, sketches, and ceramics. The day that we came, however, a strike in the City kept only a part of the museum open. We saw what we could, which included several studies of Guernica (1937), Picasso’s famous painting of a Spanish town experiencing an air raid during the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939). We saw the original Guernica painting in Madrid, but we appreciated all the studies that Picasso had done leading up to the painting. He painted the original in Paris. Picasso stayed in Paris for the duration of the Nazi occupation of France.

A study of Guernica by Pablo Picasso, Picasso Museum, Paris.

Study of a horse and bull for Guernica, Picasso Museum, Paris.

Another sketch for Guernica, Picasso Museum, Paris.

Painting and study of woman weeping for Guernica, Picasso Museum, Paris.

Another study for Guernica, Picasso Museum, Paris.

After a leisurely outdoor lunch at Le Trés Or bistro (9 rue du Trésor, 75004 Paris), near the Picasso Museum, we trekked back to the Paris Archeological Crypt to learn about the Roman ruins from Emperor Augustus’ reign, the medieval village plans, and diagrams of early Paris. It was quite fascinating, especially the touchscreen interactive displays.

Lunch at Le Trés Or bistro , near the Picasso Museum.

Whatever it was, it was good! At Le Trés Or bistro.

Enjoying the trees at lunchtime.

Family selfie time after going to the Paris Archaeological Crypt, which is near Notre-Dame Cathedral.

For some reason, we indulged in Jacob’s search for the Eiffel Tower Lego set. We did not see it at the museum store. So we walked for a really long time to get to the Lego store in Paris. David calls it the Lego death march, which was exacerbated by my foot pain. My right foot was perfectly fine fit in my Dansko sandals, but the thick strap bothered a bone on top of my left foot, hence the discomfort on this long trek. As fate would have it, they did not have the Eiffel Tower, but they ironically had the Statue of Liberty – perhaps it wasn’t so ironic after all. Jacob purchased it, and we began the long walk back to our apartment.

Appreciating all the fountains I come across in Paris. Trying to remember if this is the one at the park where I had to rest my feet on our long walk to the Lego store, where we discovered that they did not have the Lego Eiffel Tower but they did have the Statue of Liberty. Go figure!

We walked this wooden footbridge over the Seine many times during our stay in Paris.

After such a brutal late afternoon, at least we knew we were in for a treat for dinner. Taking up on another one of Laura’s excellent restaurant recommendation, we dined at Le Caveau de l’Isle (36, rue Saint Louis en L’Isle, 75004 Paris) on Saint Louis Isle, in what has become one of my favorite areas in Paris. Another great recommendation!

A quaint street – rue Saint Louis en l’Isle.

Le Caveau de l’Isle, 36, rue Saint Louis en l’Isle, 75004 Paris.

Always start a meal with a good wine…. at Le Caveau de l’Isle, Paris.

My shrimp/avocado/hearts of palm artichoke salad, Le Caveau de l’Isle, Paris.

Main dish of duck with honey sauce, Le Caveau de l’Isle, Paris.

Pear with dark chocolate sauce, Le Caveau de l’Isle, Paris.

Chocolate lava cake with creme anglaise, Le Caveau de l’Isle, Paris.

A familiar sight – Notre-Dame Cathedral at twilight.