Head in the clouds

Posted on June 7, 2020 by Patty

Rest is not idleness, and to lie sometimes on the grass under trees on a summer’s day, listening to the murmur of the water, or watching the clouds float across the sky, is by no means a waste of time.
― John Lubbock, English banker, Liberal politician, philanthropist, scientist and polymath, from The Use Of Life

When I was in elementary school, one of my teachers assigned us an art exercise to sit outside the classroom and draw the clouds. It was her way of teaching us about the different types of clouds by engaging us and tapping our creativity, instead of just going through the textbook. I remembered drawing them and falling in love with clouds. I even loved the names they were given – cirrocumulus, cirrus, and cirrostratus (the high clouds); altocumulus, altostratus, and nimbostratus (the mid-level clouds); and stratus, cumulus, cumulonimbus, and stratocumulus (the low clouds).

Flash forward several decades and I find that when I walk our dog, Sammy, and our previous family dogs, I have tended to look down at the sidewalk. Of course, I look at the homes in the neighborhood and the landscaping and flowers and trees. But I usually – most noticeably before shelter in place – spend that time thinking things through, either with work or my novel. On what I call our shelter-in-place walks (simply walks that David, Isabella, and I have taken around the greater neighborhood), I have paid more attention to details, to plants and flowers, trees and animals. But that’s for another blog post. I discovered the clouds again. One evening in particular, the clouds were so ethereal that I took photographs with my smartphone, fully know that they could never capture the wonder that I saw with the naked eye at that moment in time.

And yet, I was pleasantly surprised that many of the photos did their best to capture what I saw and produce in me an awe, a catch-the-breath moment. So I thought a few weeks ago, when I have time, when I make time, I want to share my cloud photos. And here they are. Enjoy.

This photo was taken on our early shelter-in-place (SIP) walks up the hilly Moeser Street and then a detour to get to El Cerrito’s Memorial Grove. It was about 5 o’clock on a mid-March middle of the week afternoon. San Francisco is on the left, with Alcatraz not far off. You can see the Golden Gate Bridge and Marin on the right. I didn’t think the clouds would be adequately captured, but there is a sense of the heavens in these clouds, an expansiveness, possibilities, even if they be filled with awe and dread.

Here’s an even farther view out of the Bay and city of El Cerrito below us. Here the clouds and sky really make one feel quite small and insignificant.

Final shot of that evening’s walk, with a focus on the clouds and open space in the sky above the Golden Gate Bridge and the Marin headlands.

I couldn’t escape the rooftops and telephone wires, but I had to capture this full-bodied cumulus cloud. I think about the plane rides where you go through a bank of clouds and there’s this other-worldly sense to it. I imagine to myself sometimes what would it be like to be in the middle of that cloud. Like thick Tule fog, no doubt.

When the sun is behind the clouds, these amazing shadows and shapes edged with light capture your attention. It was a windy late afternoon when I looked up and admired the clouds.

The other thing I love to do is watch clouds change shape and sail on by on a windy day. These clouds had such texture to them.

Stepping back, I wanted to capture this march of clouds being prodded by the wind.

The rest of the photos are from a single evening in May where I was mesmerized by the clouds and I confess that I couldn’t curate the many photos I took, so please bear with me. Here is a mix of feathery cirrus clouds and cotton-ball cumulus clouds.

More cirrus clouds intermingling with altocumulus clouds. This reminds me of a painting I imagine that my artist friend, Tana would paint.

I love the layering of altocumulus clouds against the cirrus clouds, how the dark altocumulus clouds contrast and come to the forefront.

This photo looks surreal. It reminds me of what a Raphael sky would look like. The sky is an amazing shade of cornflower blue. The cirrus clouds look like they’re raining down on the altocumulus clouds, with their white glow in the background giving this photo a three-dimensional feel to it.

When you go farther out with the camera view, it feels like a cloud fireworks – cloudworks – is erupting in the sky. I would love to see my artist friend Kathy render her interpretation of this photo.

The “tentacles” hanging down from these clouds remind me of jellyfish. And note the light edging the clouds in the top right-side of the photo.

The picture before this one was cropped. Here’s the full view. You can see the shadowy altocumulus clouds below the wispy cirrus clouds above it. I love the light and shadow play.

It was a half-moon evening. I love how the cirrus clouds around the moon looks like smoke from a cigarette and the subtle shades of blue in the sky and clouds.

Stepping back for the full effect, with the half-moon in view.

More loveliness. A close-up of the photo below. The white cloud on the left seems to sparkle.

The half-moon and the raining clouds. Goodnight Clouds, Goodnight, Moon.

Hawaiian family vacation

Posted on December 21, 2019 by Patty

Hawaii is not a state of mind, but a state of grace.
– Paul Theroux, American travel writer and novelist

It’s nearly the end of the year, end of December, and I’m just now getting to our family vacation and Rossi Family reunion on the Big Island of Hawai’i? Call me stubborn. It had been on my list forever, and now I’m finally getting to it. I won’t give much in the way of narration. In my haste, I offer photographs and captions. I will say that this was a family trip to honor David’s father, Jerry, who turned 80 years young in June and retired just a few months ago. A life well lived. And a nice place to celebrate. I spent a summer and Christmas in 1989 on the main island. It was great to be able to see another side of the beautiful islands of Hawai’i.

First, photos around our condo on the Kona side of the island. This is our view from our living room window.

After a rainstorm, we were graced with a rainbow. From our cluster of condos.

Another view near our condo by the waterfront.

Punaluʻu Beach is a beach between Pāhala and Nāʻālehu on the Big Island of the U.S. state of Hawaii. The beach has black sand made of basalt and created by lava flowing into the ocean which explodes as it reaches the ocean and cools. This volcanic activity is in the Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park. — Punaluʻu Beach is a beach between Pāhala and Nāʻālehu on the Big Island. The beach has black sand made of basalt and created by lava flowing into the ocean which explodes as it reaches the ocean and cools. This volcanic activity is in the Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park. Some resting big turtles.

This is the closest I could get to one of these gentle sea turtles.

Looking down the vast volcano floor at the Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park. We hiked all the way down and across. At least it wasn't too hot and humid. It was a pretty incredible experience. — Looking down the vast volcano floor at the Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park. We hiked all the way down and across. At least it wasn’t too hot and humid. It was a pretty incredible experience.

The floor was broken up in many places with hardy brush dotting the landscape and piles of rocks constructed by visitors.

How far are we going? I seem to be asking.

After the hike across the volcano floor and visiting the visitor's center, we headed east to hike through Akaka Falls State Park. — After the hike across the volcano floor and visiting the visitor’s center, we headed east to hike through Akaka Falls State Park.

Akaka Falls did not disappoint. It was spectacular.

It's not easy being green - except in Hawai'i. — It’s not easy being green – except in Hawai’i.

If I knew what I was looking at, I would let you know, but I can only stare, take a picture, and take a few moments in silence to appreciate the beauty of Hawai'i. — If I knew what I was looking at, I would let you know, but I can only stare, take a picture, and take a few moments in silence to appreciate the beauty of Hawai’i.

My favorite picture of Isabella and Jacob from Hawai'i. — My favorite picture of Isabella and Jacob from Hawai’i.

And the favorite family photo from Hawai'i. — And the favorite family photo from Hawai’i.

We ended the long day with burgers at Hilo Burger Joint. The Rossi clan!

The next day, a group of us went on a snorkeling trip to Captain Cook’s Cove. We didn’t get to the second spot, which was full of lava caves, because we got a late start from bathroom problems on the boat to an elderly woman who passed out and had to be brought back to shore. Quite an adventure before we even got to Captain Cook’s Cove. I didn’t last but 10 minutes. David kept saying, “You better tell them you can’t swim.” I grabbed a floating noodle, but that didn’t prepare me when I climbed off the last step of the ladder into the water. It was clear enough for me to see to the bottom, but the bottom was 200 feet away from me. So after scrambling and dragging David down with me, he safely brought me back to the boat, where I watched everyone else snorkel!

Isabella waves to David before she decides she is tired and he has to drag her back to the boat. — Isabella waves to David and then she decides she is tired and he has to drag her back to the boat.

A pretty cool picture of Jacob snorkeling.

I took this picture of Captain Cook's Cove. I didn't last but 10 minutes. David kept saying, "You better tell them you can't swim." I grabbed a floating noodle, but that didn't prepare me when I climbed off the last step of the ladder into the water. It was clear enough for me to see to the bottom, but the bottom was 200 feet away from me. So after scrambling and dragging David down with me, he safely brought me back to the boat, where I watched everyone else snorkel! — I took this picture of Captain Cook’s Cove. I didn’t last but 10 minutes. David kept saying, “You better tell them you can’t swim.” I grabbed a floating noodle, but that didn’t prepare me when I climbed off the last step of the ladder into the water. It was clear enough for me to see to the bottom, but the bottom was 200 feet away from me. So after scrambling and dragging David down with me, he safely brought me back to the boat, where I watched everyone else snorkel!

I found a museum downtown that was newly founded by enthusiastic volunteers who wanted to honor Hawaiian quilts - the Kona Hawaiian Quilt Museum ( 75-5706 Kuakini Hwy APT 112, Kailua-Kona, HI 96740). — I found a museum downtown that was newly founded by enthusiastic volunteers who wanted to honor Hawaiian quilts – the Kona Hawaiian Quilt Museum ( 75-5706 Kuakini Hwy APT 112, Kailua-Kona, HI 96740).

The quilt on the left is an antique. It was quite seditious for its time. Patriots would put these quilts on their bed, but when subjected to searches, they would flip the quilt over to hide their patriotism to the Hawaiian royalty. Pretty amazing history.

This quilt honors the fiery volcano eruption of 2018, which caused a lot of devastation to homes and flora and fauna.

Look what I found in the nearby shopping center - at the Hawaiian shaved ice shack - Halo halo with ube ice cream! — Look what I found in the nearby shopping center – at the Hawaiian shaved ice shack – Halo halo with ube ice cream!

We found a horse ranch on the Hilo side of the island, so Isabella could have her horse-riding fix.

While Isabella rode.... — While Isabella rode….

We cavorted with the adopted pig at the horse ranch.

Jacob found a friend among the many dogs on the ranch.

Afterwards, we went in search of Rainbow Falls and were delighted.

Have to get the mom and daughter photo in - at Rainbow Falls. — Have to get the mom and daughter photo in – at Rainbow Falls.

Not sure what kind of tree this is, but what a creation - a tangle of branches and roots. — Not sure what kind of tree this is, but what a creation – a tangle of branches and roots.

We had a great meal at the Fish and the Hog Market Cafe. It was a hoppin' place. — We had a great meal at the Fish and the Hog Market Cafe. It was a hoppin’ place.

I don't know what this is, but there was nothing left on the plate after Jacob was done. — I don’t know what this is, but there was nothing left on the plate after Jacob was done.

We took a Kona Coffee tour at Greenwell Farms. And it was good.

I don't know what this is, but it's pretty amazing. — I don’t know what this is, but it’s pretty amazing.

We also did a little tour of the Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory and sampled delicious chocolates. These are cocoa beans, or pods.

We did a lot of wandering, and met up with this fella.

Jacob patiently waiting for sea turtles to ascend.

We frequented Rebel Kitchen a few times for lunch ( 79-7399 Hawaii Belt Rd, Kealakekua, HI 96750).

Some type of fish dish at Rebel Kitchen.

And the last dinner on the Big Island with the Rossi clan at the Kona Brewing Company.... — And the last dinner on the Big Island with the Rossi clan at the Kona Brewing Company….

We went snorkeling in other local beaches. We had time on our last day for David and the kids to do one last dive into the ocean. David caught this sea turtle descending with a GoPro camera at Two Step State Beach. Fittingly, this is our last image of our time in Hawai’i.

Family vacation in France: Day 9 in Bayeux

Posted on July 16, 2018 by Patty

This operation is not being planned with any alternatives. This operation is planned as a victory, and that’s the way it’s going to be. We’re going down there, and we’re throwing everything we have into it, and we’re going to make it a success.
– Dwight D. Eisenhower, American army general, statesman, and 34^th President of the United States.

Picturesque Bayeux, France.

We left Rouen in the morning, but not without drama, courtesy of the tight parking spot and lane leading out the hotel underground garage! We didn’t think we needed a code to get out, but we did. The problem was, we didn’t have a code. So as we scrambled to figure out if David should call the front desk or I should go to the front desk, the car with a German couple came up behind us, making a tense situation even more stressful. The man kindly gave us the code. I got out of the car and at the entrance of the garage exit to help guide David out of the lane. But David had trouble with the stick shift, and the garage door came down. While I stood outside, I heard the car rev up and then a bang. I thought, oh no, the car backfired and hit the German couple’s car! The next thing I know, the garage door goes up and our rental car comes out, with the German man having driven it out! He said our car merely tapped his car and took off. With a sigh of relief, we took off and said au revoir to Rouen!

Water wheel and stream in Bayeux, France. Our AirBnB apartment is the building on the left with the poppies at the window sills.

As I mentioned in my first blog of our France vacation, the whole reason we came to France was because Jacob, our WWII buff, wanted to visit Normandy. So here was the crowning jewel of the trip for him. We were going to stay in Bayeux for two nights and explore the various sites of Normandy and D-Day. Before we checked into our AirBnB, we stopped off at the Musee Memorial 1944 Bataille de Normandie. This museum is dedicated to the Battle of Normandy, so lots of tanks and weapons, mannequins in various uniforms, military maps, timelines, and dioramas, and historical panels and videos. This is for the hardcore WWII military buff, which meant this was not Isabella’s cup of tea. But we were indulging Jacob, our graduate. Isabella will get her turn in three years.

Museum of the Battle of Normandy, Bayeux, France.

Display in the Battle of Normandy Museum, Bayeux, France.

One of the many tanks at the Battle of Normandy Museum, Bayeux, France.

Adjacent to the museum is the Monument to Reporters (Le Mémorial des Reporters), a beautiful garden and memorial to all the reporters who have died in the line of service, reporting on wars and other conflicts around the world since WWII to the present. The grassy walkway through this green garden with white roses bushes wends its way among standing stone tablets that list the names of those fallen, categorized by year. The monument was inaugurated on October 7, 2006. According to the Bayeux Award for War Correspondents, “in 2015, 110 journalists have perished because of their profession or in dubious circumstances. Reporters Without Borders assures that of those 110, 67 have been killed for the sole reason of being journalists. In total, 787 journalists have been killed on the job since 2005. To that number, 27 netizens and 7 media associates can be added. This worrisome situation can be explained by the peak of violence against journalists in the last decade. They are now deliberately targeted and all the efforts put toward their safety have failed so far.” We noticed that some years bore a long list of names, and we tried to match the conflict to the year. At any rate, this was a very moving tribute.

The very moving Monument to Reporters, Bayeux, France.

A shady part of the Monument to Reporters, Bayeux, France.

After lunch, we settled in our very cute apartment above a local artist’s shop and next to a stream and waterwheel. What’s more, we had a view of Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, which is yet another beautiful cathedral and as big as Paris’s Notre-Dame. Miraculously, Bayeux was spared any bombing and its cathedral and buildings remained intact, which is a gift not to just the town and France, but to all of us visiting. The cathedral is a mix of Romanesque (ground floor) and Gothic (upper floors) architecture. The high central window above the altar contains rare 13th-century stained-glass pieces.

Approaching the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Another view of the imposing Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

The entrance of the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Outside details of the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France. Note the flags of France and Great Britain flying at the top.

Stained-glass window in the upper part of the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Statue detail in the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Stained-glass windows on the ground floor of the Notre-Dame Cathedral in Bayeux, France.

Light filtering through the windows on the stairs and columns, Notre-Dame Cathedral in Bayeux, France. And no tourists!

Jacob and Isabella goofing off in front of the timeline, Notre-Dame Cathedral in Bayeux, France.

Upper-floor windows and ceilings of Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Beautiful stained-glass windows in the upper floors, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Ground-floor stained-glass windows, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

The altar, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Close-up of the altar, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Curves and light, columns like folds of heavy cloth, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

More stained-glass windows, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

The other side of the steps – light and shadows and no tourists, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Gargoyle detail, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

The Tapisserie de Bayeux Museum was steps from our apartment. You can’t take any pictures of the actual tapestry, which was made in the 11^th century, but I can share its history and story. Once believed to have been displayed in the cathedral’s nave, the tapestry, which spans 70 yards, is made of wool embroidered onto a linen cloth. A historical document meant to inform the largely illiterate citizenry, the tapestry tells the story of William the Conqueror’s journey from duke of Normandy to king of England. William successfully battled England’s King Harold at the Battle of Hastings in 1066.

The Bayeux Tapestry museum is literally a stone’s throw from our apartment in Bayeux, France.

The tapestry is housed in this enormous building in Bayeux, France.

Today was a nice introduction to Bayeux and set us up for our big half-day tour of Normandy for tomorrow.

The kids by the oft-photographed water wheel and stream, which runs alongside our apartment in Bayeux, France.

A very cute shop operated by an artist who painted many of the poppy and other designs on canvas and textiles is the ground floor of our two-story apartment in Bayeux, France.

A room with our view: Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

The view of Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France, at night.

Family vacation in France: Day 8 in Rouen

Posted on July 15, 2018 by Patty

It’s on the strength of observation and reflection that one finds a way. So we must dig and delve unceasingly.
– Claude Monet, French Impressionist painter

While the rest of the family was excited for our next leg of the trip, I was very sad to leave Paris. For one, it was nice staying in one place for a while. I loved the energy of the city. I am definitely an urban dweller compared to the rest of the family. I also wanted to keep exploring other neighborhoods; there’s so much more to see and do. But it just means I must return to Paris. We got our taste of what it’s like to drive through Paris and to get to Charles de Gaulle Airport, a city unto itself. Gridlock. We rented a car at the airport and thus began the driving journey part of our trip.

The kids’ room with a view from the Mercure Hotel in Rouen: the medieval town.

Our room with a view at the Mercure Hotel, Rouen.

First stop was Rouen, about 84 miles northwest of Paris and 1.5 hours on the road. We figured out the toll system – which signs to follow to get into the right lanes for pay by credit card! It was our first stay at a hotel, the Mercure Hotel in Rouen. We had an adventure driving on cobbled streets through barricades to get to the hotel’s underground parking lot, and another adventure parking the car in the very tiny stall. No doubt we were an amusement to the German tourists who parked their two cars with ease. David gets a gold star for driving, driving stick shift, and coming up with alternatives when our British-speaking GPS system led us astray (she was more accurate than our GPS system in Italy, but she was not without error).

The medieval town of Rouen.

See the half-timbered homes in Rouen.

This Gothic structure houses city administration offices.

The bulge of the half-timbered buildings is characteristic of the medieval homes dating back to the early 1500s in Rouen.

Rouen is a 2,000-year-old city that boasts medieval half-timbered houses and Gothic architecture. In its heyday, Rouen was the country’s second-largest city next to Paris with 40,000 residents. The Normans made Rouen its capital in the ninth century. It was home to William the Conqueror before he moved to England. Joan of Arc, whom I vividly remember learning about when I was a child, was burned at the stake here in 1431. She was canonized in 1920 and later became the patron saint of France. Sadly, in April 1944, Allied bombers destroyed 50 percent of Rouen as they sought to break down the Germans’ control of Normandy leading up to the D-Day landings. Once we checked in (see our amazing room with a view), we immediately hit the cobbled streets, admiring the Gothic structures that house city administration. We admired the medieval structures that are still standing. You’ll notice that they bulge out, a characteristic that authenticates the age of the building.

An open-air market near the town square, Rouen.

The Big Clock in Rouen.

An antique/vintage shop in Rouen. I found a couple of chairs I would have loved to have brought home.

Always scenic – a French flower shop, Rouen.

We visited the Joan of Arc Church, Eglise Jeanne d’Arc, a modern church that was completed in 1979. The town’s Normandy Nordic roots is captured in the church’s Scandinavian architecture. The church boasts 16^th-century windows, which were salvaged from a church that was bombed during WWII. Nearby the town square is a restaurant called Restaurant La Couronne, supposedly the oldest restaurant in France, but also made famous by American chef and author Julia Child. In 1949, Child ate her first French meal here and thus changed her culinary world and the American culinary scene. We did not eat dinner here, though it would have been cool to do so. Next time.

Stained-glass windows in the Joan of Arc Church, Rouen.

Statue of Joan of Arc, Joan of Arc Church, Rouen.

The Scandinavian architecture of the Joan of Arc Church, Rouen. See how the windows look like eyes with a helmet on top!

Restaurant La Couronne, made famous by Julia Child, Rouen.

The main reason we came to Rouen was to see the Notre-Dame Cathedral, which was made famous by the many different studies Claude Monet painted of the Gothic façade at different times of the day. Constructed between the 12^th and 14^th centuries, the cathedral endured lightning strikes and wars. In fact, the cathedral was bombed in WWII required extensive rebuilding. It’s a gorgeous cathedral. No wonder Monet painted it several times.

Notre-Dame Cathedral of Rouen. Hold your breath!

A close-up of a the frilly Gothic architecture of Notre-Dame Cathedral, Rouen.

Another view of the facade of the Notre-Dame Cathedral at Rouen.

Even closer, a detail of Notre-Dame Cathedral, Rouen.

Statues on the facade of Notre-Dame Cathedral, Rouen.

Stepping into Notre-Dame Cathedral at Rouen.

The ceiling of Notre-Dame Cathedral, Rouen.

A quiet, reflective moment at Notre-Dame Cathedral at Rouen.

David’s view of the light hitting the stairs, Notre-Dame Cathedral at Rouen.

In a twist on Who Wore It Best?, my version of the same stairs, Notre-Dame Cathedral, Rouen.

Statues at Notre-Dame Cathedral, Rouen.

Statues in light and shadows, Notre-Dame Cathedral, Rouen.

We dined at La Petite Auberge (164 rue Martainville), which is a Rick Steves recommendation. It’s nearby the equally impressive St. Maclou Church (Eglise St. Maclou). Isabella surprised us all by eating a whole big bowl of mussels. We ate outdoors, and while it was a cool Normandy evening, the wind died down enough for us to enjoy our meal. We only stayed one night in Rouen. Traffic in Paris ate up our hours. It may be one of the times when you say, we’ll return and stay a while.

Our restaurant, La Petite Auberge, was right around the corner from St. Maclou Church, Rouen.

Somebody was being funny. Jacob had his first glass of wine our first night at Galerie Kitchen Bistro, but once he turned 18, he started drinking wine with us during meals. He is getting used to it, trying to discern the change in taste when you pair wine with food.

Salmon salad, served two ways for David, La Petite Auberge, Rouen.

Goat cheese salad for me, La Petite Auberge, Rouen.

Isabella’s goat cheese and crouton salad, La Petite Auberge, Rouen.

David’s steak with cheese sauce and mushrooms, La Petite Auberge, Rouen.

My zucchini lasagna was a little overdone, but still worthy, La Petite Auberge, Rouen.

Isabella’s mussels! At La Petite Auberge, Rouen. She ate the whole thing.

Isabella’s chocolate fondant with creme anglaise, La Petite Auberge, Rouen.

It got dark after 10pm, which is when we finished our only dinner in Rouen at La Petite Auberge.

Family vacation in France: Day 6 in Paris

Posted on July 13, 2018 by Patty

It took me time to understand my waterlilies. I had planted them for the pleasure of it; I grew them without ever thinking of painting them.
– Claude Monet, French Impressionist painter

There are many day-trip destinations from Paris, depending upon how you create your itinerary – Versailles, Chartres, Giverny. We had planned an overnighter in Versailles, but no such trip planned for either Chartres or Giverny. We decided to take a bus tour to Giverny. In retrospect, I would have included an overnighter somehow to Giverny. The bus tour roundtrip was longer than our actual time in Giverny, especially with the traffic getting back into Paris, and I would have loved to have spent time in the town of Giverny, where Claude Monet is buried and the streets are lined with many shops, including antique shops. Next time!

The print shop where we purchased our etching of the Paris park chairs. That’s Jacob and Isabella, and I’m peering in the window again.

We didn’t have time to stand in line for the Catacombs in the morning because we were off to a late start, so we walked around the neighborhood. We wandered into F. Charbonnel, a shop for engravers, lithographers, and woodcut/linocut artists, because we saw an etching of the park chairs in the window. We purchased the etching, an “aquatinte,” titled “Aux Tuileries” by Corinne Lepeytre. Aquatinte is an intaglio printmaking technique, a variant of etching. In intaglio printmaking, the artist makes marks on the plate that are capable of holding ink.

From the bus window, a view of the French countryside outside of Paris.

A medieval bridge that was bombed out during WWII, right before the town of Giverny.

After a quick lunch near the Louvre, we boarded our tour bus to Giverny, which took about 1.5 to two hours for the 50-mile trek. We got there about three in the afternoon. Once we got into the garden, we were wall to wall with other tourists. It was also very hot. The crowds thinned out after an hour or so, and we were able to enjoy parts of Claude Monet’s enchanting home, beautiful garden, and surreal waterlily pond. In 1883, Monet, his wife Alice, and their blended family of eight children settled in the pink and green farmhouse, and he spent some 40 years at Giverny.

Every imaginable color of dahlia was in Monet’s Garden.

A cheerful bright dahlia in Monet’s Garden.

I think this is an onion. Whatever it is, I love it and have seen it all over Paris. I’d love to grow this in my garden.

The grand alley that splits Monet’s garden in two and leads to his farmhouse.

Commemorating my painting as an undergraduate of the grand alley with a photo of me beside it.

I’ve long admired Monet’s water lily paintings. Seeing them in person at the Orangerie Museum takes one’s breath away. And being in his beloved garden – especially for this gardener! – was magical (once the crowds thinned, of course). At every turn, we came upon different kinds and colors of lilies and dahlias and flowers I’d never seen before. The garden is symmetrically laid out in beds. A “grand alley” splits the garden in two and sports arches of iron trellises with climbing roses all the way down the alley. I had to take a picture of this. When I was at UC Davis and thought I was going to minor in art, I took a painting class taught by the famed painter, Wayne Thiebaud. Our last assignment was the “imitate a masterpiece.” I immediately thought of imitating an Impressionist painter because I thought it would be easy for me to do, given that painting was a major weakness of mine (drawing is another story). At any rate, I chose Monet’s entrance – the grand alley – to his Giverny farmhouse. Needless to say, it was a disaster and it was embarrassing to put it up against my classmates’ amazing imitation masterpieces. I put down my brushes and paints after that class and didn’t pursue the minor. But being at the entrance of the grand alley, I surely appreciated the beauty Monet saw and the desire to immortalize such beauty with his paintings.

Even the outside of the farmhouse is colorful!

Selfie with Isabella in front of the farmhouse.

The house is pretty amazing – colorful, full of paintings and his beloved Japanese prints, homey yet grand. I loved walking through the rooms. I loved the yellow dining room and the blue kitchen. I loved the warmth of the bedrooms, and his study where I picture reading books and writing and being creative.

One side of the dining room – the hearth and more Japanese prints.

The cheery yellow dining area.

Paintings in the study. The walls are full of paintings.

Another part of Monet’s study. It’s an enormous room.

One of the cozy bedrooms.

A view of Monet’s Garden from a bedroom on the second floor.

After touring the house and the gardens, we took the pedestrian tunnel under the main road to get to the Water Garden. I think we all took a million pictures of the Japanese bridges, the weeping willows, the pond full of life and water lilies. We actually got some pictures without tourists in it, no small feat. I could have stayed here for hours, just sitting and gazing at the colors, the light, the reflections in the water. It’s very peaceful. We didn’t have much time for the entire tour, but I’m glad we came. The town and the gardens demand another visit!

Monet’s Water Garden. Almost no tourists in this photo!

Weeping willows, lilies, and water lilies.

Close-up of the water lilies.

The Japanese bridge in the background from our vantage point of another bridge.

A burst of pink flowers amid the water lilies in Monet’s Water Garden.

No tourists in this picture of Monet’s Water Garden.

Reflections of a brilliant sky and clouds in Monet’s Water Garden.

More reflections in Monet’s Water Garden.

Isabella in Monet’s Water Garden.

When we arrived back in Paris, we got tickets for the Batobus water taxi, which does a loop on the Seine, stopping at all of the major monuments and museums. This was something Isabella wanted to do. We caught it at the Orsay Museum dock and sailed through Saint-Germain-Des Prés, Notre-Dame, Jardin des Planties,Cité de la Mode, Hotel de Ville, the Louvre, and then we got off at Champs-Elysées in search of dinner in that area. We ate dinner at Le Ponthieu (51 Avenue Franklin Roosevelt 75008, Paris) since we were going to walk to the Eiffel Tower to take night photos. Isabella and I had confit canard, which was very good. Our poor waiter, who apologized for knowing little English – and we apologized for our lack of French – was running around waiting on all the tables. We were burning up, despite having our table near the open patio. It must have been in the 80s at nine in the evening! We left him with a nice tip for trying to take care of us.

An excellent duck confit and the best, creamiest potatoes au gratin ever.

Approaching the Eiffel Tower as the sun goes down close to 10 in the evening.

So many people were out taking photos of the Eiffel Tower at night. We took some amazing pictures and left before eleven. The taxis were charging exorbitant prices for the straight shot back to our apartment, so we stubbornly said no and walked the entire way. We walked mostly along the Seine to avoid traffic, but also to enjoy the people who were dining picnic-style along the waterfront and those who were dancing and frolicking at riverside restaurants. As I walked on, I kept thinking how I would have loved to have lived this kind of carefree life in my twenties! My feet were tired by the time we reached the Orsay Museum. We stopped on the wooden foot bridge so David could take more amazing photos of the Eiffel Tower. It was midnight by the time we got back to our apartment. It had to have been the hottest night in Paris for us thus far. But such weather allowed us to enjoy the very long walk from the Eiffel Tower to close to Notre-Dame Cathedral. I need to find out the distance so I can see how many steps we took! At least such a walk is burning the calories from all that good food we are eating.

The Eiffel Tower at night, with the half moon on the right.

Another view of the Eiffel Tower and the moon.

Looking straight up at the Eiffel Tower all lit up.

And now the family selfie with the Eiffel Tower.

The graceful curve of the Eiffel Tower at night.

One last picture of the Eiffel Tower before we head back home.

Looking back at the Eiffel Tower, with the moon rising.

One last look at the Eiffel Tower from the wooden foot bridge over the Seine River.

On the other side of the wooden foot bridge over the Seine is the Orangerie Museum. Good night, Paris!

Family vacation in France: Day 5 in Paris

Posted on July 12, 2018 by Patty

The last time I saw Paris.
Her heart was warm and gay.
– Oscar Hammerstein II, American writer, theatrical producer, and theatre director of musicals

On Tuesday, we ventured to nearby Saint-Chapelle, a Gothic church built between 1242 and 1248 for King Louis IX – the only French king who is now a saint. Saint-Chapelle has the most amazing stained glass ever. Words can’t describe what photos can just barely do justice. The first floor, or basement, was built for staff and commoners. The ceiling is painted with fleurs-de-lis.

The Gothic architecture of Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

Detail of Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

When you first walk into Saint-Chapelle, you are enchanted.

Assuming this is Saint Louis? At Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

Then you climb the spiral staircase to the Chapelle Haute and you are overwhelmed by the 15 separate panels of stained glass. According to Rick Steves, there are 6,500 square feet of stained glass, which is about two thirds of its 13th-century original. More than 1,100 Biblical scenes are depicted, from Creation in Genesis to the end of the world. Taken together, you really have to sit back and take it all in, after taking all those pictures!

Once you come up to the main floor, you will be floored by the stained glass.

More stained glass beauty at Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

Another view of the stained glass, Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

One of the 15 panels, Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

Another awesome view, Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

Close-up of the stained glass center, Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

Detail of a stained-glass panel, Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

After taking our fill of Saint-Chapelle, we walked quite a ways to the Musée Picasso (Picasso Museum), which houses the largest collection of his work in the world. We are talking some 400 paintings, sculptures, sketches, and ceramics. The day that we came, however, a strike in the City kept only a part of the museum open. We saw what we could, which included several studies of Guernica (1937), Picasso’s famous painting of a Spanish town experiencing an air raid during the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939). We saw the original Guernica painting in Madrid, but we appreciated all the studies that Picasso had done leading up to the painting. He painted the original in Paris. Picasso stayed in Paris for the duration of the Nazi occupation of France.

A study of Guernica by Pablo Picasso, Picasso Museum, Paris.

Study of a horse and bull for Guernica, Picasso Museum, Paris.

Another sketch for Guernica, Picasso Museum, Paris.

Painting and study of woman weeping for Guernica, Picasso Museum, Paris.

Another study for Guernica, Picasso Museum, Paris.

After a leisurely outdoor lunch at Le Trés Or bistro (9 rue du Trésor, 75004 Paris), near the Picasso Museum, we trekked back to the Paris Archeological Crypt to learn about the Roman ruins from Emperor Augustus’ reign, the medieval village plans, and diagrams of early Paris. It was quite fascinating, especially the touchscreen interactive displays.

Lunch at Le Trés Or bistro , near the Picasso Museum.

Whatever it was, it was good! At Le Trés Or bistro.

Enjoying the trees at lunchtime.

Family selfie time after going to the Paris Archaeological Crypt, which is near Notre-Dame Cathedral.

For some reason, we indulged in Jacob’s search for the Eiffel Tower Lego set. We did not see it at the museum store. So we walked for a really long time to get to the Lego store in Paris. David calls it the Lego death march, which was exacerbated by my foot pain. My right foot was perfectly fine fit in my Dansko sandals, but the thick strap bothered a bone on top of my left foot, hence the discomfort on this long trek. As fate would have it, they did not have the Eiffel Tower, but they ironically had the Statue of Liberty – perhaps it wasn’t so ironic after all. Jacob purchased it, and we began the long walk back to our apartment.

Appreciating all the fountains I come across in Paris. Trying to remember if this is the one at the park where I had to rest my feet on our long walk to the Lego store, where we discovered that they did not have the Lego Eiffel Tower but they did have the Statue of Liberty. Go figure!

We walked this wooden footbridge over the Seine many times during our stay in Paris.

After such a brutal late afternoon, at least we knew we were in for a treat for dinner. Taking up on another one of Laura’s excellent restaurant recommendation, we dined at Le Caveau de l’Isle (36, rue Saint Louis en L’Isle, 75004 Paris) on Saint Louis Isle, in what has become one of my favorite areas in Paris. Another great recommendation!