Category Archives: The Examined Life

The unexamined life is not worth living.

The views from our shelter-in-place walks

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I only went out for a walk and finally concluded to stay out till sundown, for going out, I found, was really going in.
– John Muir, influential Scottish-American naturalist, author, environmental philosopher, botanist, zoologist, glaciologist, and early advocate for the preservation of wilderness in the United States of America

When the county issued a shelter-in-place order on March 16, 2020, I was finishing up working out at our local gym. We were told the order would last for three weeks. Without a structure in place, especially for someone who is so reliant on routine, I fell off of my exercise regimen. Soon, suffering from cabin fever, I started looking for a different form of cardio exercise. We decided to go on long walks with our dog, Sammy. First it was a threesome with my husband, David, and my daughter, then it became just David and me. In the beginning we walked to Memorial Grove in El Cerrito, but the downhill walk was a little treacherous with the gravelly and pebbly path.

We started our walks after our work day, and we headed up a long, uphill road and took meandering streets to get back to our house in the flats. It was about 3.5 miles, which took us a little over an hour. Sometimes we walked all the way up Moeser Avenue to Arlington, which wound its way through the towns of Kensington and Berkeley, and then to El Cerrito. That walk often took 2.5 hours. This walk was mostly with my daughter and me, which was a really peaceful and leisurely time for us to connect. Soon we developed a routine when my daughter stopped walking the rigorous uphill climb. At one point, we timed the uphill climb to 11 minutes and 55 seconds in June, but we haven’t been able to beat that time.

Along the way, we saw some great views, fauna, and flora. I knew at some point, wherever we were with shelter in place and the pandemic, I would put together a collage of photos from our walks. With autumn here and daylight savings looming a month away, our routine will once again change, but for now, here are memories of what I call our “shelter-in-place” walks. Enjoy!

Black birds on a bare tree in March.
A late end to our walk results in a beautiful sunset.
At the top of Memorial Grove, a view of the bay, San Francisco, the Golden Gate Bridge, and Marin.
A closer view of the City.
Tangled tree branches at Memorial Grove.
This is a closeup of a tree at Memorial Grove. This reminds me of a Georgia O’Keefe painting.
Another closeup view of the tree. This is more O’Keefe!
A field of poppies.
A majestic cloud, like a bust, in shadow and light, near our house at the start of our walk.
A blustery March view at the top of Memorial Grove of San Francisco Bay.
Looking upward at the trees at Memorial Grove.
Another view of a Memorial Grove tree.
An iris near the high school.
I need to download the app that identifies plants and flowers on your phone. This bloom looks like a bouquet of tiny flowers.
April sunset from behind Sunset Cemetery.
Another view of the sunset.
The sinking sun at Sunset Cemetery.
We are all familiar with the turkeys that rule El Cerrito and the hills. This is up Stockton Street.
On the longer walk along Arlington Avenue, I recognized this house that I had seen years before and admired for its beautiful landscaping and details, and the traditional Colonial-style house, of course.
A closeup of the house.
A delicate bloom in a garden along Colusa Avenue.
The ferny bush and blooms.
Tangled tree branches dark against the green leaves at Memorial Grove.
Another view of the tree branches and leaves.
Closeup of a giant succulent.
A very plump turkey.
This turkey is strutting in style – belongs in a fashion magazine for turkeys.
Birds on a wire and tree branches.
Is this a monkey flower?
A May view of the City from afar, along Terrace Avenue.
A very elegant raven posed for me on rocks, iron benches, amid poppies. Surely, it deserves four photos!
Strike a pose, Raven!
Another shot of the raven.
The last raven photo.
I’d love to know what this beautiful flower is!
David spotted this hawk in a tall tree along Terrace Avenue.
A crane seen along Moeser Avenue.
A mid-May view of the City along Terrace Avenue.
A beautiful May late afternoon of the San Francisco Bay.
This is an otherworldly plant and its blooms.
A small park along Arlington Avenue.
A deer in someone’s yard along Arlington Avenue.
Turkeys rule the front yard of this home in early June.

An amazing bloom of an unidentified plant in late July.
A bucolic front yard with a steel bird bath at a house along Arlington Avenue.
This has been a terrible firestorm season and we’ve had some really bad bouts of heat waves, which all point to the impact of climate change. The one day where the sun didn’t come out, it was completely dark outside, and when the sun did show up it was an eerily orange disc, it felt horrifically Apocalyptic. I didn’t take any pictures, although I’ve seen many that have captured what it felt like that day. Instead, I’m going to end with two photos of the view from Terrace Avenue in El Cerrito of San Francisco Bay and the City. So clear on that Friday late afternoon. This is my home.
I leave you with this one image showing both the City and the Golden Gate Bridge on a sunny and very clear day, a rarity this summer and fall. Had we not gone through shelter in place, I don’t think we would have taken this walk for our daily exercise and seen this gorgeous view. Once daylight savings hits, we’ll be limited in taking the walk up Moeser and winding down Terrace on weekends and fair weather, but we have these great photos and memories to keep this view in our hearts. May some good come out of your shelter in place.

Family vacation in France: Day 16 in Chantilly and Senlis

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Whoever does not visit Paris regularly will never really be elegant.
 – Honoré de Balzac, French novelist and playwright

It’s difficult to enjoy Day 16 of a family vacation when Day 16 is the last day. It was on my mind when I woke up in Versailles that morning and throughout the day, though I did my best to live in the moment. We were originally slated to drive from Versailles to Senlis, where we were going to spend the night because it was only 15 miles from Charles de Gaulle Airport, where we needed to drop off the Hertz rental car and would be flying out of. But I was hoping I could somehow get to Paris and get these “butterfly” earrings that I was coveting our last night in Paris (but the shop was closed before its listed close time). After a “discussion,” David said we’d drive through Paris to Senlis, which is something he didn’t want to suffer through – Paris traffic. But that’s what we did. It was not without drama, as on the way into Paris, a road-raged motorcyclist tried to speed ahead of our car as David merged. He slapped the side-view mirror on David’s side of the car before speeding off, but then we saw him slow down in our lane and force the two cars ahead of us to pass him. To my horror, he slowed down to my side of the car and slammed the side-view mirror in. Thankfully, he drove off. At any rate, we drove to the shop in Île Saint-Louis, I hopped out in front of the shop and purchased the earrings, and we drove off.

From Paris, after a difficult time getting out of Paris, thanks to our GPS’s bad directions, we drove straight to Domaine de Chantilly. This would be our seventh and final château to visit, if you’re counting Versailles as a château and not a palace – and the Château de Chantilly was a fitting end to our run of French châteaux.

Château de Chantilly from the entrance.

Impressive statue, but I don’t know who this is. Perhaps the Duke of Aumale? Château de Chantilly.

A panoramic view of the Château de Chantilly.

The French-style garden, Château de Chantilly.

Château de Chantilly, which was built during the Middle Ages by various owners, is a beautiful castle. “Anne de Montmorency, constable of king François I, inherited the Château de Chantilly and transformed the building, located on a rocky outcrop, into a Renaissance-style château. The Condé dynasty subsequently extended the domain, commissioned the French-style garden from Le Nôtre, had the Great Stables built, and made the domain a place of cultural and gastronimcal festivity.”

Hunting dogs statue, Château de Chantilly.

Corner of Château de Chantilly.

A view of Château de Chantilly coming from the Great Stables.

A view of Château de Chantilly surrounded by water.

Château de Chantilly was destroyed during the Revolution. Henri d’Orléans Duke of Aumale, who was heir of the last of the Condés and son of king Louis-Philippe, the last of the French kings, spent 23 years in exile in England, where he acquired a massive collection of paintings, furniture, books, manuscripts, and decorative arts. When he returned to France, he rebuilt the château to house his collections. The duke has a singular vision that ruled his life – to “embellish and restore Chantilly.” He created the Condé museum within the heart of the château specifically for his treasures. The museum houses 550 works presented on dark red walls. There are three Raphael paintings and a Delacroix painting in this collection. The library and reading room house nearly 19,000 works, including 1,500 manuscripts.

The most impressive and dramatic room in Château de Chantilly for me was the Gallery of Painting.

A Delacroix painting, Château de Chantilly.

One of three Raphael paintings, Château de Chantilly.

Luminous Française painting, Château de Chantilly.

A Pompeii mosaic on the floor of the Rotunda in the Gallery of Painting, Château de Chantilly.

Ceiling painting in the Rotunda in the Gallery of Painting, Château de Chantilly.

Painting and sculpture, the Gallery of Painting, Château de Chantilly.

I’m envious of the Reading Room. Look at all those books and manuscripts on two levels! Château de Chantilly.

Close-up of the protected stacks of books in the Reading Room, Château de Chantilly.

Detail of a stained-glass panel, one of many telling Biblical stories, Château de Chantilly.

“With no direct heir, he decided to bequeath the Domaine de Chantilly and its treasures to the Institut de France, which groups the five Academies, in his 1884 testament.” His will stated that his paintings – hanging on several levels in the 19th century fashion – had to be maintained and could not be loaned out of Chantilly. “He sought to make the Domaine de Chantilly a place of exception open to the public.”

The Duke of Aumale’s paintings remain hung the way he wished – 19th-century style of hanging on several levels on a wall, Château de Chantilly.

Paintings in the appropriately named Gallery of Painting, Château de Chantilly.

Elaborately decorated cabinet, Château de Chantilly.

Detail of a painting in the corner of a ceiling, Château de Chantilly.

Another Pompeii mosaic but hanging over a mantle, Château de Chantilly.

Staircase looking up to where the Chapel is located, Château de Chantilly.

Staircase detail, Château de Chantilly.

The Chapel, Château de Chantilly.

Detail of statue in the Chapel, Château de Chantilly.

A cabinet full of beautiful, detailed fans, Château de Chantilly.

Looking out into the courtyard from inside, with a screen providing texture, Château de Chantilly.

Before we ventured out on the very warm day, we had lunch outdoors in the château’s La Capitainerie Restaurant. I savored my last glass of wine with lunch and my last French lunch.

Gazpacho on a hot day, yes, La Capitainerie Restaurant, Château de Chantilly.

My dish of fish, La Capitainerie Restaurant, Château de Chantilly.

David’s steak, La Capitainerie Restaurant, Château de Chantilly.

Getting punchy on our last day in France, La Capitainerie Restaurant, Château de Chantilly.

After lunch, we ventured to some of the gardens, but we missed much of the sprawling grounds. We did not step down past the château to the French-style garden, which is somewhat reminiscent of the garden at Château de Chambord and designed by André Le Nôtre,  French landscape architect and the principal gardener of King Louis XIV. We missed the numerous fountains, water features, and collection of statues. We also missed the Anglo-Chinese garden, which was designed in 1773, and the Petit Parc, which was created in the early 18th century.

Fountain in the 19th century English Garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

The Temple of Venus from afar, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

The château from the English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Bust, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Stopping for duck watching, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Isabella contemplating her reflection in the stream, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Bench and stream, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Stream reflecting the sky and clouds, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Bridge over stream, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

We did venture to the English garden, which sits on a plot that was left vacant from a part of Le Nôtre’s gardens that were destroyed during the Revolution. There were quaint bridges, park benches by the stream, fountains, and ponds thick with water lilies. As we made our way across this garden, we captured beautiful photographs of Château de Chantilly with the water in the foreground. I have to say that there were so many memorable views of the château.

Apologies for four straight photographs of the château from the English garden, but it was difficult to curate such a beautiful view, Domaine de Chantilly. This one is from far away, with the château framed by reflective stream, trees and grasses, and the glorious sky and clouds.

Coming around the bend, a little closer view of the château from the English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Closer still to the château from the English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

My lone entrant of the château bordered by nature, Domaine de Chantilly.

The lush and peaceful English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Stream and trees, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

On the Island of Love, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Great Men’s Bridge, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Water lilies, stream, sky, and clouds, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

We made our way to the Great Stables, which were built in the 18th century and were considered a horses’ palace. Originally dedicated to hunting, they were converted to barracks during the Revolution. They were converted back to stables in 1815. Isabella was in heaven going through the Museum of the Horse, which was inaugurated in 2013 in the 15 rooms of the Cour des Remises in the Great Stables. She got to see some beautiful horses and we bought her a pair of stirrup earrings to commemorate her time at Domaine de Chantilly.

Detail of the entrance to the Great Stables, Domaine de Chantilly.

Angry carousel horse, Museum of the Horse, the Great Stables, Domaine de Chantilly.

Isabella with horse sculpture, the Great Stables, Domaine de Chantilly.

One of many horses in the Great Stables, Domaine de Chantilly.

The Great Stables from afar, Domaine de Chantilly.

As we made our way back to our car, we savored our walk around the château and more views of this beautiful estate. Three different wedding parties were having their photography session on the grounds. I couldn’t think of a grander place for such an event. While tourists roamed the grounds, the château was never crowded, and we made our way without encountering any congestion.

Another view of the memorable Château de Chantilly.

We drove to Senlis and had another challenging drive to our hotel for our last night. La Villa Camille is a charming rustic hotel, but the road it was on was under construction, so we were stuck and David had to back out on the very narrow roads. We ended up calling our host and he came out to direct us where to park. Then we encountered another problem – his booking streams weren’t synched up, and he had not room for us. But he came up with a solution, and we ended up with his room in the attic. It’s a very roomy attic with beds for everyone. We had a lovely view of Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Senlis, which was constructed beginning in 1153.

Our room with a view, Notre-Dame Cathedral de Senlis, La Villa Camille, Senlis.

Quaint cat and sign, La Villa Camille, Senlis.

The courtyard garden, with orange horse and a reclining Jacob, La Villa Camille, Senlis.

Our attic room, La Villa Camille, Senlis.

Sitting area off of the bathroom in our room, La Villa Camille, Senlis.

The kids’ side of the attic room, La Villa Camille, Senlis.

The view of Notre-Dame Cathedral de Senlis from La Villa Camille’s courtyard garden, Senlis.

Feeling bad about the mix-up, though in the end everything was fine, our host at La Villa Camille made reservations for us for dinner at La Scaramouche (4 Place Notre Dame, 60300 Senlis), which is across from Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Senlis. It was a Saturday evening, a wedding had taken place, and so we didn’t get an outdoor table. We ate inside, and though the food was magical, we were sweating inside because it was so warm and the restaurant had no air conditioning! But would I trade our evening for just any restaurant with air conditioning? Non! The wine was heavenly, the food gastronomically satisfying, and the dessert sinful. Fitting for our last meal in France. It was also Jacob’s last glass of French wine. Sigh.

Notre-Dame Cathedral de Senlis, which was across from La Scaramouche.

Cocktails, please, La Scaramouche, Senlis.

Bread and charcuterie, La Scaramouche, Senlis.

Delicious crostini with goat cheese, La Scaramouche, Senlis.

Jacob’s potatoes and chicken, La Scaramouche, Senlis.

My last French meal of duck, canard, La Scaramouche, Senlis.

David’s tuna, La Scaramouche, Senlis.

Isabella’s duck, La Scaramouche, Senlis.

The front of La Scaramouche, Senlis, where we wished we were seated!

By the time we finished our dinner, Notre-Dame Cathedral de Senlis was all lit up.

After dinner, we stayed up for a drink with our La Villa Camille host in the hotel’s whimsical garden. We talked politics, similarities between France and California (our host felt there were similarities), and his family history (he showed us framed letters that his forebears received from Napoleon and WWII dignitaries). His home was decorated with so much family history. I wish we had more time to appreciate La Villa Camille. We would have loved to have stayed longer, but repacking beckoned us, as well as a very early departure. It was nice, however, to have spent our last night with a drink and congenial conversation. Bonne nuit and au revoir!

Notre-Dame Cathedral de Senlis early in the morning of our departure from our window of our room, La Villa Camille, Senlis.

Family vacation in France: Day 12 from Mont St-Michel to Amboise

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Beauty perishes in life, but is immortal in art.
– Leonardo da Vinci

My bales of hay, Brittany countryside, France.

A picture of David taking a picture of the bales of hay so you can appreciate the scale, Brittany countryside, France.

We left Mont St-Michel early in the morning after breakfast. We drove for the longest part of our travels – about three-ish hours – to the Loire Valley. Our destination was the town of Amboise. The Loire River, stretching east to west, separates northern and southern France. Historically, the river and its fertile valley have been significant, as the Moors leveraged the Loire as they marched from Morocco into Europe. We arrived midday and ate lunch at La Scala along Amboise’s main street, Quai du Général de Gaulle, before meeting our host and getting situated in our AirBnB house. We stayed in a delightful three-story Medieval-style house with a deck not too far away, about a 10-minute walk, from the Château d’Amboise.

My seafood pasta lunch at La Scala, Amboise.

Our Amboise AirBnB house, named La Tortue (the turtle) on Rue Victor Hugo.

The patio/entry area of our AirBnB house in Amboise, Loire Valley.

To the left of the entry is the ground-floor bedroom where Isabella and Jacob stayed. They had their own bathroom, and we had a washing machine. The only complaint from the kids was the house centipedes that crawled on their feet when they were in the bathroom!

The ground-floor level has a spiral staircase that takes you to the second floor of our AirBnB house in Amboise.

The second floor of our AirBnB house in Amboise comprises the dining, kitchen, living areas, plus the deck.

Our AirBnB house’s kitchen on the second floor, Amboise.

The living area of our Amboise AirBnB house. Jacob and Isabella pounced on the directions for connecting to the Wi-Fi.

The deck, off of the dining area on the second floor, that faces the stone walls for privacy at our Amboise abode.

Ascend the second-floor stairs to get to the top floor in our Amboise house.

The little sitting area of our master bedroom on the third floor of our Amboise house.

On the right side of our bed is a door leading to a sheltered view of greenery and stone mountain.

To the right is the master bathroom. Note the Medieval wood bracing throughout this beautiful house!

The beautiful wood staircase in our Amboise house.

Aside from its wines and agricultural bounty, especially apples or pommes, the Loire Valley is famous for the more than a thousand castles and palaces that are situated on its beautiful land. It became fashionable for Sixteenth-century royalty, especially those who loved to hunt, to ditched medieval castles for rich Renaissance palaces. According to Rick Steves, “Old-time aristocratic château-owners, struggling with the cost of upkeep, enjoy financial assistance from the government if they open their mansions to the public.” Given that Amboise is on the east side of the valley versus the west side, we were going to concentrate on seeing châteaux in this area.

Château d’Amboise, Loire Valley.

The Orléans-Penthièvre study houses a succession of late 18th century portraits showing the maternal grandfather and parents of the future French King Louis Philippe 1er, Château d’Amboise.

Soaring ceilings at Château d’Amboise.

The great part of Château d’Amboise was built in the late 15th century and was Charles VIII’s favorite royal residence in the Loire. Other residents included Louis XII and François I, who is responsible for bringing Leonardo da Vinci to Amboise in 1516. More on this later. The château has been open to the public since the 19th century. Visitors enter “the interior of the Royal Château of Ambois via the former foot soldiers’ passage, which was originally defended by a draw-bridge and portcullis. The gallery is decorated with the coats and arms of the château’s successive owners, from the 11th to the 19th centuries.” From the top of the castle – its Tour Garçonnnet – as well as from the edge of the gardens, you can appreciate the Loire River.

From the Tour Garçonnnet, Château d’Amboise.

To the left of the Tour Garçonnnet, you can see the Loire River and the roads and town of Amboise.

To the right of the Tour des Minimes of Château d’Amboise are homes along the Loire River. You can see the remains of a bridge that was bombed out during WWII.

From the Tour des Minimes of the Château d’Amboise, you can see the Naples Terrace gardens.

A close-up view of the Naples Terrace garden from the Tour des Minimes, Château d’Amboise.

“During the Renaissance, the king made a palace out of this château. It was a symbol of his power, center for political, economic, and artistic activity. It also stands in memory of an historical turning point, when different styles and trends from Flanders and Italy mixed. Italy, coveted by France during the entire first half of the 16th century, was also admired for its artistic vitality. Monarchs thus invited to Amboise many Italian artists and writers whose influence blended with French tastes to create the original style of the “Early French Renaissance.”

In the Cupbearer’s room, a tapestry of Queen Esther’s banquet, Aubusson Royal manufacture, 17th century, and bust, Château d’Amboise. “This room recalls the customs of the King’s table, where cupbearers served drinks. Medieval trestles were replaced with “Italian-style” tables. They were richly decorated and could be extended. The art of dining evolved slowly with the timid use of two-pronged forks (knives and spoons remained more popular until the time of Henri III).

This room, the bedchamber of King François 1er and his son Henri II, was occupied by his wife Catherine de Medici who, after his tragic death, played an active role in the affairs of the kingdom during her sons’ successive reigns. The room’s interior illustrates the introduction of perspective into 16th century decorative arts, Château d’Amboise.

The footlights along the pathway to exit of Château d’Amboise is both ghostly and ethereal.

In 1516, Leonardo da Vinci accepted the position of engineer, architect, and painter to France’s Renaissance king, François I. Allegedly, the king, who was only 22 years old at the time, brought the then-65-year-old artist and inventor to Amboise so he could “enjoy is intellectual company,” according to Rick Steve. Leonardo da Vinci is buried in the Gothic chapel, St Hubert Chapel, named in honor of the patron saint of hunters and constructed in 1493. Leonardo da Vinci dictated in his last will and testament on 23 April 1519 that he wanted to be entombed in the St Florentin church, Amboise. Upon his death on 2 May 1519, he was thus buried. His remains were exhumed and transferred to St Hubert Chapel in 1871.

The Gothic-style St Hubert Chapel, Château d’Amboise.

The stained-glass windows and ceiling of St Hubert Chapel, Château d’Amboise.

Stepping back to get a bigger picture of the interior of St Hubert Chapel, Château d’Amboise.

Light hitting the stained-glass window, St Hubert Chapel, Château d’Amboise.

The burial site of Leonardo da Vinci, St Hubert Chapel, Château d’Amboise.

Stained-glass window’s colorful reflection in the afternoon light against the stone walls, St Hubert Chapel, Château d’Amboise.

More reflections of stained-glass windows at St Hubert Chapel, Château d’Amboise.

Straight-up view of a stained-glass window, St Hubert Chapel, Château d’Amboise.

Leonardo da Vinci’s bust graces an area outside of the formal landscaped gardens. The bust marks the spot where Leonardo da Vinci was initially buried, on the spot of the St Florentin Collegiate (an 11th century Roman building). It was a very warm day we arrived, but we appreciated the symmetry and beauty of the gardens.

Bust of Leonardo da Vinci, Château d’Amboise.

The formal landscaped gardens of Château d’Amboise.

View of the Loire River from the terrace of the landscaped gardens, Château d’Amboise.

Picture frames to ponder what you see from various angles, at the top of the formal gardens, Château d’Amboise.

Another picture frame of Château d’Amboise and its formal gardens.

The Loire River from the formal gardens of Château d’Amboise.

Perfectly coiffed double row of trees at the formal gardens of Château d’Amboise.

Château d’Amboise from across the Loire River on the other side of Amboise.

We also walked around town to orient ourselves but also to enjoy our new surroundings. We were too tired to find a restaurant for dinner by the time we finished our walk. Having found the grocery store, the trusty Carrefour City, we picked up inexpensive but fantastic wine (under €9, euros) and all kinds of cheese (€2), pommes (apples), grapes, charcuterie, and voila, we had a wonderful meal at our beautiful abode. One châteaux down, four to go in the Loire Valley.

Beautiful flower I’ve never seen before along the main street of Amboise.

Bon appétit! Eating at home tonight in Amboise.

The next morning – our view of Amboise from our window.

Family vacation in France: Day 11 from Bayeux to Mont St.-Michel, Part 1

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Lieutenant Welsh remembered walking around among the sleeping men, and thinking to himself that ‘they had looked at and smelled death all around them all day but never even dreamed of applying the term to themselves.’ They hadn’t come here to fear. They hadn’t come to die. They had come to win.
– Stephen E. Ambrose, Band of Brothers: E Company, 506th Regiment, 101st Airborne

Last view of Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux from our apartment window.

We didn’t get to see everything we wanted in Bayeux (still didn’t when all is said and done), so we decided that we’d go back to the Visitors Center at the WWII Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial and also see the Overlord Museum before heading out to Mont St.-Michel, our next destination. But first a last look at our quaint AirBnB apartment, which is an old building that includes a wonderful charming painting and textiles shop on the ground floor and is next to a stream with a water wheel.

What you see when you first walk up the very steep staircase to our apartment. It is decorated with a poppy theme.

The other side of the living and dining area of our apartment in Bayeux.

The red couch is adorned with poppy pillowcases from the charming shop below us. And poppy paintings adorn the walls.

Our serviceable kitchen in our Bayeux second-floor AirBnB apartment.

A little alcove between the kitchen and the bathroom and main bedroom of our Bayeux apartment.

Our bedroom was very light and bright and tastefully decorated, Bayeux apartment.

Isabella slept in her own bed in our bedroom, Bayeux apartment.

Last look at the shop below our Bayeux apartment.

Another reason we stayed is to go to this antique shop in Bayeux that we perused on our first day here. Jacob saw some WWII souvenirs there, and while he was interested, he wanted to check out other such shops at our stay in Bayeux. We didn’t see any other antique shops, so we had to wait until it opened on our last day since it was closed on Sunday. A British woman ran the shop, and she was knowledgeable about many of the items. I was interested in vintage and antique pins. I ended up getting two – one is a French pin from the turn of the century from a social club and the other is a sterling silver “sweetheart” pin, which is what a person in the armed services gave to either his wife or girlfriend. This sweetheart pin represents the service of the man. I thought they were a nice find.

The antique shop on the main street in Bayeux.

The display of pins in the front window of the antique shop in Bayeux.

More pins! Most of them were authentic WWII pins and metals, Bayeux antique shop.

More pins and other WWII souvenirs, Bayeux antique shop.

My Bayeux vintage pins. The one on top is French social club pin for music from the turn of the century. The bottom pin is a WWII “sweetheart” pin from an American serviceman.

When we first arrived in Bayeux and passed by this building, I thought of the setting of Lord Farquaad’s kingdom in Shrek. Now I bid this beautiful little town adieu.

As we leave the main roundabout in Bayeux, we say adieu to the knights on topiary horses.

We went to the Overlord Museum, or should I say, David and Jacob ventured inside. At that point, I felt I’d seen more than my share of D-Day museums in such a short period of time! The Overlord Museum holds a collection of WWII-era vehicles, with exhibits covering American, British, and German vehicles. Next up on our last morning was the Visitors Center, but our GPS had difficulty getting us there. I was afraid we were going to give up trying to find it as we looped around and around. Ironically, the entrance to the cemetery and visitors center was across the street from the Overlord Museum.

Entrance to the WWII Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial, Colleville-sur-Mer, France.

I’m so glad we returned to the Visitors Center, located in Colleville-sur-Mer. The cemetery is is managed by the American Battle Monuments Commission, a small independent agency under the U.S. federal government that maintains overseas American cemeteries. France granted the U.S. a perpetual concession to the land occupied by the cemetery. Luckily, it wasn’t crowded when we got there. We didn’t check out the computer terminals, which contain the Roll of Honor database – the names and stories of every U.S. service person whose remains are buried in Europe – on the ground level. The underground level’s exhibit is extensive, and I wish we’d had more time to read every panel. We watched the video Letters in the theater, which focused on a handful of men who lie in the cemetery. One story told of a doctor who didn’t tell his wife that he volunteered to go into combat, though he did write to a friend of the news. She didn’t know until she saw the letter to the friend. This film and other videos put a face to the names we saw, to the thousands of soldiers – 25,000 Americans died in the battle for Normandy – who gave their lives for freedom. I was quite moved. We didn’t have enough time to read all the panels, which included a detailed timeline of the important events from September 1939 to June 5, 1944. The panels for June 6, 1944, highlight the landings in three-hour increments.

The infinity pool just outside the full-length glass windows and doors of the Visitors Center, WWII Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial, Colleville-sur-Mer, France. You can see a map of the landings.

Just outside of the Visitors Center is a peaceful infinity pool that invites you to walk through a park surrounded by Kentucky bluegrass to the bluff overlooking Omaha Beach. It’s a beautiful view, one that can’t be reconciled with what happened on D-Day. This would be our last view of Omaha Beach. And so we left Normandy after lunch, with me telling Jacob that upon his return he could check out the other beaches we missed and linger longer, and go up north to Dunkirk. In my mind, I was thinking I would do the same sometime in the future.

A view of Omaha Beach from the bluff overlooking the beach.

Panoramic view of Omaha Beach from the bluff. Breathtaking.

A cute dog at the restaurant where we ate our last Normandy meal. He laid down at our table by my backpack, hoping for some crumbs.

Family vacation in France: Day 10 in Bayeux

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There’s a graveyard in northern France where all the dead boys from D-Day are buried. The white crosses reach from one horizon to the other. I remember looking it over and thinking it was a forest of graves. But the rows were like this, dizzying, diagonal, perfectly straight, so after all it wasn’t a forest but an orchard of graves. Nothing to do with nature, unless you count human nature.
– Barbara Kingsolver, American novelist

On our way to our first tour stop, we encountered a cow crossing, outside of Bayeux, Normandy, France.

We got up early in the morning for our personal tour of Normandy, particularly Gold Beach (the D-Day Museum at Arromanches), Longues-Sur-Mer (the German fortifications from the Atlantic Wall), Omaha Beach (including a visit of the Military Cemetery Memorial and the Landing Beach), and Pointe du Hoc (the Ranger’s Memorial and the cliffs they had to scale). The tour was all morning. In the afternoon, we were on our own, so we added Utah Beach D-Day Museum in the town of Sainte Marie du Mont and went back to Omaha Beach to explore further. There was so much to see and so much information to let wash over us, we decided to go back to the Military Cemetery’s Visitor’s Center, since we didn’t go there in the morning, and the Overlord Museum, on our way out of Bayeux to our next destination.

The cliffs along the Utah and Omaha Beaches.

Another view of the cliffs near Omaha Beach.

It is difficult to put into words what we experienced. I’d seen the WWII movies and thought it would be an interesting history lesson, but the more details and depth we absorbed from what happened in Normandy during WWII, I grew to appreciate just what was at stake here – life, liberty, freedom – and what was sacrificed. I was so moved by my experience in Normandy. As David said when we were watching the 4th of July fireworks at the Oakland A’s game the day before July 4th and listening to the patriotic songs, he felt a depth of gratitude that he’d not fully appreciated before. I felt the same way.

The barbed wire that the Germans ran along the bluff still remains.

We were led by our guide, Antoine, who was a nice but serious fellow. Our first stop was Pointe du Hoc Ranger Monument, situated on a bluff overlooking the beaches. The Germans heavily fortified this area along the Utah and Omaha beaches. Interestingly, the cliffs are so steep that the Germans were not expecting the Allied forces to scale the cliffs, and so, they turned their guns in the opposite direction for an inland attack. The U.S. Army Rangers had other ideas. The 225 hand-picked rangers scaled the cliffs with the task of disabling the German gun battery, a move that was necessary in order for the landing of Allied forces on the beaches to be successful. Only 90 survived. Ponte du Hoc is full of eroded bunkers and craters created by 10 kilotons of bombs that were dropped within a span of seven weeks. We stood at the top of the bluff and looked in awe at the cliffs that the Rangers scaled. Amazing. The German gun battery included more than a mile of tunnels connecting its battlements. It held six 155mm guns that were capable of firing as far away as 13 miles, reaching both Omaha and Utah beaches. Despite the heavy bombing, which commenced in April 1944 until June 6th, the bunkers survived.

A bombed-out gun battery, Pointe du Hoc.

A viewing platform above one of the bunkers, Pointe du Hoc.

Inside a bombed-out bunker, Pointe du Hoc.

Plaque in one of the bunkers honoring the U.S. Rangers who gave their lives to the cause, Pointe du Hoc.

Antoine provides background as we walk the path to the Pointe du Hoc Ranger Monument, near Omaha Beach.

The Dagger Memorial represents the Dagger the Rangers used to get them up the cliffs. We walked in and out of the observation bunker, which housed the officers and enlisted soldiers’ quarters, and command room. The Rangers only had 30 minutes to get off the beach because of the rising tide. Upon reaching the bluff, they discovered that the Germans had moved and hidden the guns a half-mile inland, but the Rangers eventually found the guns and destroyed them.

The Dagger Memorial, Pointe du Hoc.

There were many informational panels along the walkway of the Pointe du Hoc Ranger Monument. Here is one: “Sacrifice: The Price of Freedom: Of the 350,000 Allied personnel who took part in the D-Day invasion, including 156,000 troops who landed on Normandy’s beaches, approximately 9,000 were casualties on June 6. By the end of the campaign for Normandy, the Allies suffered more than 200,000 casualties, including over 50,000 killed.” On the French side, “more than 90,000 French soldiers died defending France in 1939-40. Another 58,000 soldiers and approximately 20,000 members of the French Resistance died fighting alongside the Allies from 1940 through 1945. The famed French 2nd Armored Division came ashore on nearby Utah Beach and suffered more than 1,000 casualties spearheading the Allied drive into Paris. Although thousands of French civilians died during the Normandy fighting, the population continued to welcome and assist Allied troops.”

More barbed wire and treacherous cliffs, Pointe du Hoc.

Next we visited Omaha Beach. My touchstone was the film Saving Private Ryan. Standing there, where people were peacefully walking on the beach or frolicking in the water, I couldn’t comprehend what had happened here that day June 6, 1944. It’s unfathomable. Nearly half of all D-Day casualties occurred at Omaha Beach, which was nicknamed “Bloody Omaha.” We saw the metal memorial, entitled Le Braves, which was sculpted by the Parisian artist, Anilore Banon, and erected for the 60th Anniversary of the D-Day Landings. The sculpture honors the liberators, symbolizing “the rise of freedom on the wings of hope.” The sculpture was only to be displayed temporarily, but supporters rallied to keep it still standing, and so it still stands.

The Braves, 2004, the metal statue at the center of Omaha Beach.

Family portrait with The Braves, Omaha Beach.

Eight nations’ flags fly here, representing the countries who took part in the invasion, though only two American assault units landed in Omaha Beach, namely the 1st Infantry Division and the 29th Infantry Division (a National Guard citizen army unit with, understandably so, little combat experience). The mission was ill-fated for these men. Despite heavy Allied bombing before the invasion, the heavily armed Germans surrounded the four-mile-long beach above the cliffs on three sides. The 500 German soldiers and their 1 gun nests picked off the American soldiers as they disembarked the landing ships. The troops kept coming, and by the end of the day, 34,000 soldiers had landed. The Germans were eventually pushed inland. Still, it was not without great sacrifices, which were not lost on us as we stood surveying the beach.

Paragliders over Omaha Beach makes for a surreal scene.

Two bronze soldiers, commemorating the Bedford Boys. The small town of Bedford, Virginia, sent 35 men to the landing forces. Of the 35 men, 19 were killed.

Next, we visited the WWII Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial. As we approached the green grass and the rows of white crosses, I kept thinking of Saving Private Ryan, my only touchpoint for this place. How moving was standing at the edge of the grass and surveying the lines of marble tombstones – 9,386 of them. Overlooking the cemetery is a memorial with a pool and a rising statue representing the spirit of American youth. The statue is surrounded on either side by two walls depicting two enormous reliefs of the Battle of Normandy and the Battle of Europe. Behind the that memorial is the semicircular Garden of the Missing, which includes the names of 1,557 soldiers who died but whose remains were never recovered. Among the soldiers buried here are the Niland brothers, who inspired Saving Private Ryan. Other facts: Among those buried, 33 pairs are brothers lying next to one another, a father and son, 149 African Americans, 149 Jewish Americans, and four women.

The line of white, marble tombstones is a sobering sight at the WWII Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial.

A close-up of the tombstones, WWII Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial.

Another view of the crosses. I was mesmerized by them. WWII Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial.

The reflecting pool and Memorial from a distance, WWII Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial.

One wall of the Memorial depicts the Battle of Europe.

The other wall of the Memorial depicts the Battle of Normandy.

On the other side of the Memorial is the semicircular Garden of the Missing.

A close-up of the wall with the names of the soldiers whose bodies were never found.

One last look at the tombstones as they gleam and recede in the background.

The last stop of the tour, within the town of Arromanches, was Gold Beach, where the British troops landed. What’s fascinating here is that the Allies built their own port rather than try to seize a German port. In an engineering feat, within 12 days – in the midst of battle – the Allies built Port Winston, which served as the base in Normandy that aided in the liberation of France, the push to Berlin, and the end of WWII. We visited the D-Day Landing Museum (Musée du Débarquement) in Arromanches and saw dioramas, models, photographs, and videos of how the artificial harbor was built. Pretty remarkable.

Musée du Débarquement, Gold Beach.

Remnants of the man-made harbor at Gold Beach.

Eight country flags flying over Gold Beach.

That concluded our private tour. After lunch in Bayeux, we plotted our free afternoon. We hopped into our rental car and took off for other sites and returned to Omaha Beach. Along the way, we stopped for photos of the beautiful countryside.

My fascination of bales of hay in the Italian countryside carried over to France.

Queen Anne’s lace grows wild along the roadside. We ended up getting a decorative pillowcase with this beautiful flower.

Artsy photo of bales of hay with fence post and grains in the foreground, Normandy, France.

Bales of hay with French road sign, Normandy.

Stopping by an old cemetery to take photographs, Normandy.

Close-up of three tombstones in an old cemetery, Normandy.

Next stop was to the town of Saint Marie du Mont, specifically Utah Beach, a campaign that Eisenhower added late in the game. Two U.S. paratrooper units, the 82nd and the 101st Airborne Divisions, parachuted behind enemy lines the night before D-Day. Unfortunately, many landed off-target. The Germans had flooded the farmlands in the area to make a push up the peninsula to the port city of Cherbourg difficult. Tragically, many paratroopers landed in the swamps and drowned. In fact, more than 1,000 paratroopers sacrificed their lives in order to clear the way for the actual beach landing. Still, Utah Beach was overtaken within 45 minutes, with 194 American soldiers perishing, thanks to the fact that the beach was defended by conscripted Czechs, Poles, and Russians who had no skin in the game. It took three weeks, however, before the troops overtook Cherbourg.

The Germans scattered Czech hedgehogs on the beaches to keep landing crafts and tanks from penetrating the German line of defense. The hedgehogs are scattered around the Utah Beach museum.

The Utah Beach Landing Museum (Musée du Débarquement).

There are a lot of museums on D-Day scattered throughout Normandy, but the most memorable museum for me was the Utah Beach Landing Museum (Musée du Débarquement) because it highlighted the human element, the faces of the French townspeople and American soldiers, and their stories. Indeed, in 1962, Michel de Vallavieille, the mayor of Saint Marie du Mont, began his campaign to build the Utah Beach D-Day Museum as “a living expression of the town’s appreciation and gratitude for the Allies’ sacrifices.” Vallavieille, a boy during WWII, was injured by Allied bombs on his family’s farm, but he held no ill will, understanding that the bombing was necessary to liberate France and bring an end to WWII. The museum includes many panels of American soldiers and French residents sharing their stories of D-Day and their mutual support and friendship.

A statue of soldiers disembarking from their Higgins landing craft outside of the Utah Beach Landing Museum.

Inside the Utah Beach Landing Museum, a wooden Higgins landing craft.

 

The museum underwent two major extensions. Its third major extension includes a fascinating story stemming from a visit by two American brothers on June 6, 2007: “With an interest in the Second World War, David and Gene Dewhurst visit the Utah Beach D-Day Museum on a family trip. In an exhibit, they recognize a photo of their father, Major David Dewhurst, posing at the foot of his B-26 Marauder with his crew and learn that he was a decorated squadron commander, who courageously led the final bombing run on the German stronghold WN5, moments before the Allied landing at Utah Beach. The two brothers are stunned by their discovery, as their father, Major David Dewhurst, had died when they were very young, and they knew very little about him. Inspired by their visit, the brothers decide to spearhead the major renovation and expansion project that had been under review for several years. They go on to finance over a third of this ambitious project.” Four years later, in 2011, the museum reopened with 23,000-square feet of gallery space. This is an amazing museum – the best of the lot. The images stayed with me long after we left.

The B26-Martin Marauder “Dinah Might” was the U.S. Army’s high-speed medium bomber. Major David Dewhurst was the commanding officer of the squadron assigned to drop bombs on Utah Beach.

You are now entering Utah Beach.

Picking up shells for Isabella along Utah Beach.

The tide is out at Utah Beach. It’s difficult to imagine what happened here 74 years ago.

There was so much to see in one day. We breezed through some of it in order to see as much as we could. We could have stayed an extra day and it still would not have been enough to see everything. We didn’t even make it to two other beaches, Juno and Sword, which were fought by Canadian, and British and Canadian troops, respectively, let alone Dunkirk, which is farther up north. I told Jacob he’d have to return. And so must we.

At the end of the long pier at Omaha Beach, Jacob and Isabella stare out into the English Channel.

Family vacation in France: Day 9 in Bayeux

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This operation is not being planned with any alternatives. This operation is planned as a victory, and that’s the way it’s going to be. We’re going down there, and we’re throwing everything we have into it, and we’re going to make it a success.
– Dwight D. Eisenhower, American army general, statesman, and 34th President of the United States.

Picturesque Bayeux, France.

We left Rouen in the morning, but not without drama, courtesy of the tight parking spot and lane leading out the hotel underground garage! We didn’t think we needed a code to get out, but we did. The problem was, we didn’t have a code. So as we scrambled to figure out if David should call the front desk or I should go to the front desk, the car with a German couple came up behind us, making a tense situation even more stressful. The man kindly gave us the code. I got out of the car and at the entrance of the garage exit to help guide David out of the lane. But David had trouble with the stick shift, and the garage door came down. While I stood outside, I heard the car rev up and then a bang. I thought, oh no, the car backfired and hit the German couple’s car! The next thing I know, the garage door goes up and our rental car comes out, with the German man having driven it out! He said our car merely tapped his car and took off. With a sigh of relief, we took off and said au revoir to Rouen!

Water wheel and stream in Bayeux, France. Our AirBnB apartment is the building on the left with the poppies at the window sills.

As I mentioned in my first blog of our France vacation, the whole reason we came to France was because Jacob, our WWII buff, wanted to visit Normandy. So here was the crowning jewel of the trip for him. We were going to stay in Bayeux for two nights and explore the various sites of Normandy and D-Day. Before we checked into our AirBnB, we stopped off at the Musee Memorial 1944 Bataille de Normandie. This museum is dedicated to the Battle of Normandy, so lots of tanks and weapons, mannequins in various uniforms, military maps, timelines, and dioramas, and historical panels and videos. This is for the hardcore WWII military buff, which meant this was not Isabella’s cup of tea. But we were indulging Jacob, our graduate. Isabella will get her turn in three years.

Museum of the Battle of Normandy, Bayeux, France.

Display in the Battle of Normandy Museum, Bayeux, France.

One of the many tanks at the Battle of Normandy Museum, Bayeux, France.

Adjacent to the museum is the Monument to Reporters (Le Mémorial des Reporters), a beautiful garden and memorial to all the reporters who have died in the line of service, reporting on wars and other conflicts around the world since WWII to the present. The grassy walkway through this green garden with white roses bushes wends its way among standing stone tablets that list the names of those fallen, categorized by year. The monument was inaugurated on October 7, 2006. According to the Bayeux Award for War Correspondents, “in 2015, 110 journalists have perished because of their profession or in dubious circumstances. Reporters Without Borders assures that of those 110, 67 have been killed for the sole reason of being journalists. In total, 787 journalists have been killed on the job since 2005. To that number, 27 netizens and 7 media associates can be added. This worrisome situation can be explained by the peak of violence against journalists in the last decade. They are now deliberately targeted and all the efforts put toward their safety have failed so far.” We noticed that some years bore a long list of names, and we tried to match the conflict to the year. At any rate, this was a very moving tribute.

The very moving Monument to Reporters, Bayeux, France.

A shady part of the Monument to Reporters, Bayeux, France.

After lunch, we settled in our very cute apartment above a local artist’s shop and next to a stream and waterwheel. What’s more, we had a view of Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, which is yet another beautiful cathedral and as big as Paris’s Notre-Dame. Miraculously, Bayeux was spared any bombing and its cathedral and buildings remained intact, which is a gift not to just the town and France, but to all of us visiting. The cathedral is a mix of Romanesque (ground floor) and Gothic (upper floors) architecture. The high central window above the altar contains rare 13th-century stained-glass pieces.

Approaching the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Another view of the imposing Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

The entrance of the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Outside details of the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France. Note the flags of France and Great Britain flying at the top.

Stained-glass window in the upper part of the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Statue detail in the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Stained-glass windows on the ground floor of the Notre-Dame Cathedral in Bayeux, France.

Light filtering through the windows on the stairs and columns, Notre-Dame Cathedral in Bayeux, France. And no tourists!

Jacob and Isabella goofing off in front of the timeline, Notre-Dame Cathedral in Bayeux, France.

Upper-floor windows and ceilings of Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Beautiful stained-glass windows in the upper floors, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Ground-floor stained-glass windows, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

The altar, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Close-up of the altar, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Curves and light, columns like folds of heavy cloth, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

More stained-glass windows, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

The other side of the steps – light and shadows and no tourists, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Gargoyle detail, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

The Tapisserie de Bayeux Museum was steps from our apartment. You can’t take any pictures of the actual tapestry, which was made in the 11th century, but I can share its history and story. Once believed to have been displayed in the cathedral’s nave, the tapestry, which spans 70 yards, is made of wool embroidered onto a linen cloth. A historical document meant to inform the largely illiterate citizenry, the tapestry tells the story of William the Conqueror’s journey from duke of Normandy to king of England. William successfully battled England’s King Harold at the Battle of Hastings in 1066.

The Bayeux Tapestry museum is literally a stone’s throw from our apartment in Bayeux, France.

The tapestry is housed in this enormous building in Bayeux, France.

Today was a nice introduction to Bayeux and set us up for our big half-day tour of Normandy for tomorrow.

The kids by the oft-photographed water wheel and stream, which runs alongside our apartment in Bayeux, France.

A very cute shop operated by an artist who painted many of the poppy and other designs on canvas and textiles is the ground floor of our two-story apartment in Bayeux, France.

A room with our view: Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

The view of Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France, at night.