Family vacation in France: Day 11 from Bayeux to Mont St.-Michel, Part 1

Lieutenant Welsh remembered walking around among the sleeping men, and thinking to himself that ‘they had looked at and smelled death all around them all day but never even dreamed of applying the term to themselves.’ They hadn’t come here to fear. They hadn’t come to die. They had come to win.
– Stephen E. Ambrose, Band of Brothers: E Company, 506th Regiment, 101st Airborne

Last view of Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux from our apartment window.

We didn’t get to see everything we wanted in Bayeux (still didn’t when all is said and done), so we decided that we’d go back to the Visitors Center at the WWII Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial and also see the Overlord Museum before heading out to Mont St.-Michel, our next destination. But first a last look at our quaint AirBnB apartment, which is an old building that includes a wonderful charming painting and textiles shop on the ground floor and is next to a stream with a water wheel.

What you see when you first walk up the very steep staircase to our apartment. It is decorated with a poppy theme.

The other side of the living and dining area of our apartment in Bayeux.

The red couch is adorned with poppy pillowcases from the charming shop below us. And poppy paintings adorn the walls.

Our serviceable kitchen in our Bayeux second-floor AirBnB apartment.

A little alcove between the kitchen and the bathroom and main bedroom of our Bayeux apartment.

Our bedroom was very light and bright and tastefully decorated, Bayeux apartment.

Isabella slept in her own bed in our bedroom, Bayeux apartment.

Last look at the shop below our Bayeux apartment.

Another reason we stayed is to go to this antique shop in Bayeux that we perused on our first day here. Jacob saw some WWII souvenirs there, and while he was interested, he wanted to check out other such shops at our stay in Bayeux. We didn’t see any other antique shops, so we had to wait until it opened on our last day since it was closed on Sunday. A British woman ran the shop, and she was knowledgeable about many of the items. I was interested in vintage and antique pins. I ended up getting two – one is a French pin from the turn of the century from a social club and the other is a sterling silver “sweetheart” pin, which is what a person in the armed services gave to either his wife or girlfriend. This sweetheart pin represents the service of the man. I thought they were a nice find.

The antique shop on the main street in Bayeux.

The display of pins in the front window of the antique shop in Bayeux.

More pins! Most of them were authentic WWII pins and metals, Bayeux antique shop.

More pins and other WWII souvenirs, Bayeux antique shop.

My Bayeux vintage pins. The one on top is French social club pin for music from the turn of the century. The bottom pin is a WWII “sweetheart” pin from an American serviceman.

When we first arrived in Bayeux and passed by this building, I thought of the setting of Lord Farquaad’s kingdom in Shrek. Now I bid this beautiful little town adieu.

As we leave the main roundabout in Bayeux, we say adieu to the knights on topiary horses.

We went to the Overlord Museum, or should I say, David and Jacob ventured inside. At that point, I felt I’d seen more than my share of D-Day museums in such a short period of time! The Overlord Museum holds a collection of WWII-era vehicles, with exhibits covering American, British, and German vehicles. Next up on our last morning was the Visitors Center, but our GPS had difficulty getting us there. I was afraid we were going to give up trying to find it as we looped around and around. Ironically, the entrance to the cemetery and visitors center was across the street from the Overlord Museum.

Entrance to the WWII Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial, Colleville-sur-Mer, France.

I’m so glad we returned to the Visitors Center, located in Colleville-sur-Mer. The cemetery is is managed by the American Battle Monuments Commission, a small independent agency under the U.S. federal government that maintains overseas American cemeteries. France granted the U.S. a perpetual concession to the land occupied by the cemetery. Luckily, it wasn’t crowded when we got there. We didn’t check out the computer terminals, which contain the Roll of Honor database – the names and stories of every U.S. service person whose remains are buried in Europe – on the ground level. The underground level’s exhibit is extensive, and I wish we’d had more time to read every panel. We watched the video Letters in the theater, which focused on a handful of men who lie in the cemetery. One story told of a doctor who didn’t tell his wife that he volunteered to go into combat, though he did write to a friend of the news. She didn’t know until she saw the letter to the friend. This film and other videos put a face to the names we saw, to the thousands of soldiers – 25,000 Americans died in the battle for Normandy – who gave their lives for freedom. I was quite moved. We didn’t have enough time to read all the panels, which included a detailed timeline of the important events from September 1939 to June 5, 1944. The panels for June 6, 1944, highlight the landings in three-hour increments.

The infinity pool just outside the full-length glass windows and doors of the Visitors Center, WWII Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial, Colleville-sur-Mer, France. You can see a map of the landings.

Just outside of the Visitors Center is a peaceful infinity pool that invites you to walk through a park surrounded by Kentucky bluegrass to the bluff overlooking Omaha Beach. It’s a beautiful view, one that can’t be reconciled with what happened on D-Day. This would be our last view of Omaha Beach. And so we left Normandy after lunch, with me telling Jacob that upon his return he could check out the other beaches we missed and linger longer, and go up north to Dunkirk. In my mind, I was thinking I would do the same sometime in the future.

A view of Omaha Beach from the bluff overlooking the beach.

Panoramic view of Omaha Beach from the bluff. Breathtaking.

A cute dog at the restaurant where we ate our last Normandy meal. He laid down at our table by my backpack, hoping for some crumbs.

Family vacation in France: Day 9 in Bayeux

This operation is not being planned with any alternatives. This operation is planned as a victory, and that’s the way it’s going to be. We’re going down there, and we’re throwing everything we have into it, and we’re going to make it a success.
– Dwight D. Eisenhower, American army general, statesman, and 34th President of the United States.

Picturesque Bayeux, France.

We left Rouen in the morning, but not without drama, courtesy of the tight parking spot and lane leading out the hotel underground garage! We didn’t think we needed a code to get out, but we did. The problem was, we didn’t have a code. So as we scrambled to figure out if David should call the front desk or I should go to the front desk, the car with a German couple came up behind us, making a tense situation even more stressful. The man kindly gave us the code. I got out of the car and at the entrance of the garage exit to help guide David out of the lane. But David had trouble with the stick shift, and the garage door came down. While I stood outside, I heard the car rev up and then a bang. I thought, oh no, the car backfired and hit the German couple’s car! The next thing I know, the garage door goes up and our rental car comes out, with the German man having driven it out! He said our car merely tapped his car and took off. With a sigh of relief, we took off and said au revoir to Rouen!

Water wheel and stream in Bayeux, France. Our AirBnB apartment is the building on the left with the poppies at the window sills.

As I mentioned in my first blog of our France vacation, the whole reason we came to France was because Jacob, our WWII buff, wanted to visit Normandy. So here was the crowning jewel of the trip for him. We were going to stay in Bayeux for two nights and explore the various sites of Normandy and D-Day. Before we checked into our AirBnB, we stopped off at the Musee Memorial 1944 Bataille de Normandie. This museum is dedicated to the Battle of Normandy, so lots of tanks and weapons, mannequins in various uniforms, military maps, timelines, and dioramas, and historical panels and videos. This is for the hardcore WWII military buff, which meant this was not Isabella’s cup of tea. But we were indulging Jacob, our graduate. Isabella will get her turn in three years.

Museum of the Battle of Normandy, Bayeux, France.

Display in the Battle of Normandy Museum, Bayeux, France.

One of the many tanks at the Battle of Normandy Museum, Bayeux, France.

Adjacent to the museum is the Monument to Reporters (Le Mémorial des Reporters), a beautiful garden and memorial to all the reporters who have died in the line of service, reporting on wars and other conflicts around the world since WWII to the present. The grassy walkway through this green garden with white roses bushes wends its way among standing stone tablets that list the names of those fallen, categorized by year. The monument was inaugurated on October 7, 2006. According to the Bayeux Award for War Correspondents, “in 2015, 110 journalists have perished because of their profession or in dubious circumstances. Reporters Without Borders assures that of those 110, 67 have been killed for the sole reason of being journalists. In total, 787 journalists have been killed on the job since 2005. To that number, 27 netizens and 7 media associates can be added. This worrisome situation can be explained by the peak of violence against journalists in the last decade. They are now deliberately targeted and all the efforts put toward their safety have failed so far.” We noticed that some years bore a long list of names, and we tried to match the conflict to the year. At any rate, this was a very moving tribute.

The very moving Monument to Reporters, Bayeux, France.

A shady part of the Monument to Reporters, Bayeux, France.

After lunch, we settled in our very cute apartment above a local artist’s shop and next to a stream and waterwheel. What’s more, we had a view of Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, which is yet another beautiful cathedral and as big as Paris’s Notre-Dame. Miraculously, Bayeux was spared any bombing and its cathedral and buildings remained intact, which is a gift not to just the town and France, but to all of us visiting. The cathedral is a mix of Romanesque (ground floor) and Gothic (upper floors) architecture. The high central window above the altar contains rare 13th-century stained-glass pieces.

Approaching the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Another view of the imposing Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

The entrance of the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Outside details of the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France. Note the flags of France and Great Britain flying at the top.

Stained-glass window in the upper part of the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Statue detail in the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Stained-glass windows on the ground floor of the Notre-Dame Cathedral in Bayeux, France.

Light filtering through the windows on the stairs and columns, Notre-Dame Cathedral in Bayeux, France. And no tourists!

Jacob and Isabella goofing off in front of the timeline, Notre-Dame Cathedral in Bayeux, France.

Upper-floor windows and ceilings of Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Beautiful stained-glass windows in the upper floors, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Ground-floor stained-glass windows, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

The altar, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Close-up of the altar, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Curves and light, columns like folds of heavy cloth, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

More stained-glass windows, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

The other side of the steps – light and shadows and no tourists, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

Gargoyle detail, Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

The Tapisserie de Bayeux Museum was steps from our apartment. You can’t take any pictures of the actual tapestry, which was made in the 11th century, but I can share its history and story. Once believed to have been displayed in the cathedral’s nave, the tapestry, which spans 70 yards, is made of wool embroidered onto a linen cloth. A historical document meant to inform the largely illiterate citizenry, the tapestry tells the story of William the Conqueror’s journey from duke of Normandy to king of England. William successfully battled England’s King Harold at the Battle of Hastings in 1066.

The Bayeux Tapestry museum is literally a stone’s throw from our apartment in Bayeux, France.

The tapestry is housed in this enormous building in Bayeux, France.

Today was a nice introduction to Bayeux and set us up for our big half-day tour of Normandy for tomorrow.

The kids by the oft-photographed water wheel and stream, which runs alongside our apartment in Bayeux, France.

A very cute shop operated by an artist who painted many of the poppy and other designs on canvas and textiles is the ground floor of our two-story apartment in Bayeux, France.

A room with our view: Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France.

The view of Notre-Dame Cathedral of Bayeux, France, at night.

Second home in summer – Portland Maine

We sat bathed in luscious darkness, Casco Bay’s thousand islands spread out before us like a diamond quilt. ‘I don’t get enough of this,’ she said.
– Mike Bond, novelist, environmental activist, poet, war and human rights correspondent, and international energy expert

Every summer, I am treated to a week in Maine, thanks to the fact that my company is based in Portland, Maine. Every summer, I fly into Portland, and I immediately fall in love all over again. The bay, the islands with the homes dotting the shore, the billowy clouds floating across a brilliant blue sky, the fresh air, the fantastic restaurants, the cute shops. I gush about moving to Maine. Or at least summer in Maine.

This year, the out-of-towners at my company got to stay at the Press Hotel, which is a boutique hotel that was once home to the Portland Press-Herald newspaper. But not only is the building an historic building, but the owners got it right by decorating the interior of the hotel with a newspaper theme. The sales team at my company, who are just great to work with and for, thanked me for my service to them in a very sweet call-out before my boss’s presentation on our department. And they presented me with two Press Hotel mugs and ceramic tray, which now sit on my desk to remind me of my stay there and the wonderful memories from this year.

My picture of the building didn’t turn out because the sun wasn’t on my back. But here’s info on the history of the newspaper and building.

In the lobby, one of the walls displays typewriters from all eras.

In the lobby, an old-fashioned typewriter and complimentary stationery.

Mod carpeting and tables with enlarged old newspaper clippings.

In the hallways, the wall paper is taken from actual headlines found in old microfiche (yes, look up that word).

The room across the hall from me. I love the detail of the room number being illuminated.

The chair and its quote in my room.

My last night at the Press Hotel: lobster rolls and homemade potato chips.

My Press Hotel gifts and souvenirs….

Meals for the week! Portland is well known for its great restaurants. And I was lucky to hit a number of places. Some new, some welcomed me back.

Marcy’s Diner, if you want a hearty meal, with my colleague Julie.

Boats pointing to Casco Bay.

DeMillo’s on the Bay, Portland.

Branzino at Scales, with a great view of the Bay.

The tradition for dinner the last evening of our summer sales summit is taking the ferry to Peak’s Island and having a lobster dinner. Fun was had by all. And, of course, my colleague and partner in crime, Deb, accompanied me as we shopped in Old Port, the old part of town.

One of my favorite shops in Maine. From jewelry to unique clocks and other furniture to whimsy decorations like these bookish birdhouses.

I read about Flea-for-All in the local magazine in my hotel room. What a fun place to browse. This is where I discovered Michelle Estell jewelry.

Beautifully curated Flea-for-All on Congress Street.

The interior of Flea-for-All.

Maine Potters Market in Old Port has beautiful pottery made by artists from Maine.

Selfies on the ferry ride to Peak’s Island – with Erin and Claretha.

A mix of sales and editorial staff – with Jane, Kelly, Gus, Julie, and Deb.

Claretha and I bonded last summer with our love for big earrings. The pair that I’m wearing was given to me by Claretha on the first day of summer summit.

Peak’s Island lobster – a tradition.

On the way back to the ferry – a familiar sight of colorful hanging lobster floats.

Farewell, Peak’s Island!

After the summer sales summit concluded for me, I spent the weekend with my good friend Jack and his wife, Fay, and their daughter, Camille. But first, we walked around Portland, as I discovered for the first time since I’ve been coming here, that Henry Wadsworth-Longfellow lived here and his home is an historic landmark. We walked around the gardens.

Longfellow’s statue in Portland.

The lush Longfellow’s Garden.

Tranquil setting.

Vibrant greenery.

Colorful bouquet.

At the Portland Hunt and Alpine Club for drinks with Eric and Jack. Love the simple green bouquets on the table. This place is all scarred wood, clear glass, greenery, and old-time maps. And good drinks!

Still bad at doing selfies, but I guess that’s a good thing. With Eric and Jack.

First time at Empire – one of the favorites, Peking duck buns. To. Die. For. If you ever go to Portland, you must eat here. The hour wait is worth every second.

Jack and his family moved to Brunswick in 2015, but since we went directly from Portland to Stonington Island, where they have a home there, I never spent time in their new abode until this year. Brunswick is lovely, and I had a relaxing time exploring the historic town.

The picturesque Brunswick Inn, in the main street of town.

This is a great shop, though pricey and questionable customer service. But still a great place to browse.

Wyler’s of Brunswick, a charming shop with jewelry, clothes, housewares, toys, locally crafted gifts, and accessories. You can spend a lot of time browsing here.

Hatch on Maine is a cute vintage and antique shop. There are a few vintage/antique shops on the main street. This one was a favorite of mine.

The shores of Brunswick.

The Frank J. Wood Bridge, which spans the Androscoggin River between Topsham and Brunswick, at twilight.

Contemplating life, Fay and Jack overlook the Androscoggin River.

Can’t get enough of the clouds here.

Brunswick is home to Bowdoin College, a lovely private liberal arts college established in 1794 when Maine was still part of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts.

Bowdoin College Chapel.

Inside the chapel.

Hubbard Hall.

Lovely white hydrangeas all over the campus.

The second majestic lion.

Illuminated clouds.

Along the way, we walked through the local cemetery, in which Joseph Chamberlain, hometown hero of the Civil War, is laid to rest.

Walking through the Brunswick cemetery.

Something about headstones in a cemetery that draws me, especially when the cemetery is an old one.

Joseph Chamberlain’s headstone.

A row of headstones.

A family of headstones like rows of old teeth.

Knowing that I love gardens, Jack took me to the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens, where I took upwards of 200 photos at least. Here are just a few, though it was tough to narrow them down.

Adirondack chairs await visitors at the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens.

A view of the Back River.

A field of daisies with monarch butterflies, if you look more closely.

Charlie’s bench.

Daisy.

One of the more inventive interpretations from a visitor to the Fairy House Village.

Gaillardia.

Rabbit sculpture by Lisa Becu.

Lush lime green greenery.

Petunias.

Slater Forest Pond.

Vayo Meditation Garden pool.

Close-up of the Basin sculpture by David Holmes.

Hostas.

Wind Orchard by George Sherwood.

Colorful hostas.

Windsound by Val Bertoia from Bertoia Studios.

Echinacea.

Ethereal plants.

I had another great time in Portland and Brunswick. Thanks to my great friends and hosts, Jack and Fay. Looking forward to next year!

It looks like I’m wrestling with Holly, the Beaudoin Family dog, but I’m really awkwardly trying to do a selfie with her.

Last meal in Maine in Portland at, of course, Empire.

Fay and me at Empire.

Brunswick architecture. Love the homes here in Brunswick, in Maine.

My last attempt at a selfie with Jack and Fay in front of their lovely Brunswick home.

Love, Portland and Stonington, Maine

In the life of each of us there is a place remote and islanded, and given to endless regret or secret happiness.
– Sarah Orne Jewett, an American novelist and short story writer, best known for her local color works set in or near South Berwick, Maine, from The Country of the Pointed Firs and Other Stories

Outside of Scales Restaurant, 68 Commercial Street, Portland.

Outside of Scales Restaurant, 68 Commercial Street, Portland.

Happily and luckily, I’ve been coming to Maine for a week in the summer for the last 10 years. The company that I work for – HIMSS Media – was originally MedTech Publishing, which was co-founded by my good friend, Jack Beaudoin in 2003. He and his business partner, Neil Rouda, lived and still live in Maine, which is why the Summer Summits were based there. Every first week of August, the remote workers – I was a freelance writer until I became an FTE in 2010 – would descend upon the company headquarters in New Gloucester and have editorial and sales and marketing meetings. While the out-of-towners stayed at the beautiful Merrill Farmhouse on Pineland Farms, I stayed with Jack’s family. We had wonderful employee-bonding activities such as geocaching (the non-technology kind) and cheese and wine tasting on the Pineland grounds and having a lobster bake on Peak’s Island, a ferry ride away from Portland.

After a cross-country red-eye flight, nothing better than to have Sunday brunch with old coworker Eric Wickland at Sonny's Restaurant, 83 Exchange Street, Portland. Eggs, potatoes, and grilled cornbread.

After a cross-country red-eye flight, nothing better than to have Sunday brunch with old coworker Eric Wickland at Sonny’s Restaurant (83 Exchange Street, Portland). Eggs, potatoes, and grilled cornbread.

The whole company took the ferry to Peak's Island to enjoy the sunset, play deck games, and drink and eat.

The whole company took the ferry to Peak’s Island to enjoy the sunset, play deck games, and drink and eat.

In time, the company was renamed MedTech Media and then sold to minority owner HIMSS and later became HIMSS Media. Jack moved on, and the Summer Summits ceased in 2013. Thankfully, I still return to Maine, but as part of the Summer Sales Meetings, which are now held in July. Every time I return, I am reminded of my initial wonderment when my plane first descended into Portland and I saw these quaint cottages and summer mansions perched on the banks of the many islands off of Casco Bay. And how I fell in love with the land and the lifestyle. It gets me every time.

My sixth-floor room with a view at the Hyatt Place, overlooking Casco Bay.

My sixth-floor room with a view at the Hyatt Place, overlooking Casco Bay.

Sunday evening dinner with the sales team: What's for dinner at Scales Restaurant? Lobster, of course.

Sunday evening dinner with the sales team: What’s for dinner at Scales Restaurant? Lobster, of course.

I’m told that Portland boasts more restaurants per capita than any other city in the United States. I will take it. There are wonderful restaurants around every corner. And there are great little shops all clustered together, which makes for a great Sunday afternoon of wandering around and checking out local and state artisan goods. Love, Portland.

Looks like I found someone at HIMSS Media, my coworker Claretha, who also loves statement earrings, at Tica's on Commercial Street.

Looks like I found someone at HIMSS Media, my coworker Claretha, who also loves statement earrings, at Tica’s on Commercial Street.

Penthouse deck views from The Press Hotel at 119 Exchange Street. Formerly headquarters of The Press Herald newspaper, it's now a boutique hotel with a very distinct journalism aesthetic. No, the seagull did not photo bomb me; he just wouldn't get out of the way.

Penthouse deck views from The Press Hotel (119 Exchange Street). Formerly headquarters of The Press Herald newspaper, it’s now a boutique hotel with a very distinct journalist aesthetic. No, the seagull did not photo bomb me; he just wouldn’t get out of the way.

Last meal in Portland at Solo Italiano, 100 Commercial Street - very good pasta.

Last meal in Portland at Solo Italiano (100 Commercial Street) – very good pasta.

After a very packed Summer Sales Meeting week, I met up with Jack and family dog, Holly, and we set out for a three-hour drive northeast to their second home in Stonington, a quaint and beautiful town on a bridged island in Penobscot Bay. The road to Stonington, once we got off the highway, is not really winding as it is up and down, which didn’t sit well with my stomach. Let’s just say that Jack drove much more slowly and cautiously than he’d normally drive, and taking Dramamine on the return trip to Portland eliminated my motion sickness.

Jack and Fay's lovely home in Stonington, complete with a white-picket fence.

Jack and Fay’s lovely home in Stonington, complete with a white-picket fence.

The attic, which has been converted to Jack's writing room, which was a perfect place for me to "work" on a Friday.

The attic, which has been converted to Jack’s writing room and was a perfect place for me to “work” on a Friday.

Jack tells the story of how he and Fay would rent a house in Stonington for vacation early in their marriage. They fell in love with the town and a few years ago bought the home of the former town librarian, who is still alive at the young age of 104 years. They have been slowly and lovingly remodeling the house, which is a stone’s throw from the popular Friday farmer’s market, the downtown area, and the coast. Fay did a beautiful job with the landscaping – everything looks lush and healthy. She has a great eye and is an avid gardener.

Five minutes away to the Friday Farmer's Market, where local crafts and artisan goods, wildflower bouquets, and artisan foods are on display.

Five minutes away to the Friday Farmer’s Market, where local crafts and artisan goods, wildflower bouquets, and artisan foods are on display.

One of the things I really enjoyed about Stonington is that it is a destination for true rest and relaxation. Like my hometown and our visits with my cousin Janet and her husband, Tim, when I am there, I forget about yesterday and tomorrow. I am in the moment, and I take deep breaths and immerse myself in enjoy mode. So it was with Stonington. What I very much appreciated was staying up late Friday evening and Saturday afternoon talking about novels and writing with Jack. Talking shop, as he called it. I don’t have a writing group back home. Most people I trust are the ones with whom I spent two years in Syracuse, who know me and my writing, and who have my best interest at heart. But they are all dispersed. When I was at Syracuse, I was, really, just learning how to write, so I looked up to my more worldly, wiser classmates. But there were only a few writers whose class discussions about craft I listened to with rapt attention and took plenty of notes. Jack was one of them. I valued his commentary on my short stories because he cared and wanted you to do right by your stories and characters. And that’s because Jack is a wonderful writer whose prose is beautiful and precise and whose human insights are startling and real. He believes in the beauty, power, and integrity of story, of fiction. One who has such a writer for a mentor and a friend is twice blessed.

At any rate, here, to have that time talking about, say, structural issues with our current work and discussing how our favorite authors have handled plot or character was magical and so very instructional. I appreciated the immediacy of talking one on one versus communicating via email. So thank you for that, Jack. It made me want to read more and get back to my novel-in-progress.

The inviting view from the kitchen door.

The inviting view from the kitchen door.

I love wraparound porches for their welcoming you to sit and enjoy the view and talk about writing and novels.

I love wraparound porches for their natural ability to welcome you to sit and enjoy the garden and view beyond, and talk about writing and novels.

Just a little bit about the town of Stonington. The lobster and fishing industry support the economy of Stonington and the nearby town of Deer Isle. Many of the fishermen revert to being carpenters or contractors in the off-season. I’m told that these two towns lead Maine in pound and dollar value of lobster landings. The two towns’ waters support some 300 lobster boats during the season. The island is also known for its granite quarries, which go back to the late 1800s and are still being mined today. The granite from John F. Kennedy’s memorial at Arlington National Cemetery was supplied by Stonington’s quarry.

Along the bay is a statue honoring the men who work in the granite quarries.

Along the bay is a statue honoring the men who work in the granite quarries.

In many a front yard of a home in Stonington, you will find stacks of lobster traps and buoys, which mark the lobster fisherman's territory in the bay. Colorful that.

In many of the front yards of homes in Stonington, you will find stacks of lobster traps and colorful buoys, which mark the lobster fisherman’s territory in the bay.

More lobster? Yes, please!

More lobster for dinner on a Friday evening? Yes, please!

One never gets tired of lobster while in Maine.

One never gets tired of lobster while in Maine.

One of the things I loved about our walk to the downtown was the historic homes that bore the names of their original owners. Some were weathered, giving way to their age. Others were happily restored to a gleaming white, which blazed in the July sun, and stood out against the blue sky, blue bay, and green hills. There were B&Bs, a wine shop, art houses and galleries, little shops, and the historic Stonington Opera House. But there were no touristy shops – the shop that did sell t-shirts and the like was low-key and, I dare say, dignified.

On the walk from Jack and Fay's house to the waterfront, there is a wonderful art installation of a weathered window and two Adirondack chairs positioned in front of the window. Brilliant.

On the walk from Jack and Fay’s house to the waterfront, there is a wonderful art installation of a free-standing weathered window and two Adirondack chairs positioned in front of the window. Brilliant.

The other side of the window and two chairs, with a beautiful spacious white house in the background.

The other side of the window and two chairs, with a beautiful spacious white house in the background.

A view of the bay, which, when coming around the bend, takes your breath away.

A view of the bay, which, when coming around the bend, takes your breath away.

I think this is a B&B set back from the road. Beautiful, isn't it? Imagine the bay views from the bedrooms and front porch!

I think this is a B&B set back from the road. Beautiful, isn’t it? Imagine the bay views from the front bedrooms and porch!

Colorful flowers everywhere.

Colorful flowers everywhere.

A home with an art studio.

A home with an art studio.

A “Mini Village” is nestled beneath a pine tree downtown. The sign on the tree tells of its origins: “Stonington’s Mini Village set up in this little park area was the creation of Everett Knowlton (b. April 7, 1901, d. March 17, 1978) who began building the houses in 1947 as a hobby. He continued to build them at a rate of one a year and slowly grew his ‘perfect peaceful village’ portrayed in these old pictures and portrayed in its original entirety at the Knowlton homestead. After Everett’s death, the new owner of his home donated to the town the Mini Village where each year residents take home the little houses for the winter and bring them back in spring for people to enjoy.”

Part of the "Mini Village."

Part of the “Mini Village.”

On Saturday, we timed the low tide so we could walk to one of the islands. It was a beautiful day, if a tad bit warm. We traversed a woody and ferny path of tangled roots and spongy soil, breathing in every now and then the smell of aromatic pine, before reaching the sand bar that led us to the island. The cloud formations were spectacular, especially against the blue skies and waters. This was quintessential Maine. The water was cold, the island rocky, the pines plentiful. Breathtaking. I’ll let the photos speak for themselves.

A woody walk to the island.

A woody walk to the island.

Rock, water, pine, sky and clouds.

Rock, water, pine, sky and clouds.

Walking across the sand bar to the island.

Walking across the sand bar to the island.

Those clouds! They are mesmerizing.

Those clouds! They are mesmerizing.

Heaven.

Heaven.

Can't get enough of these views.

Can’t get enough of these views.

On the way back, a peek at the shoreline.

On the way back, a peek at the shoreline.

On my last night, Jack, Fay, and their daughter Genny treated me to dinner at Aragosta (27 Main Street, Stonginton), the farm-to-table restaurant overlooking Stonington Harbor whose chef, Devin Finigan, is Vermont born and raised. Aragosta is cozy inside – wide-plank wooden floors, sofa seating along the walls, white-washed wooden walls – with a stunning view and a walk-down expansive outdoor deck. Stonington lobster ravioli was calling my name. As I took in the views, savored every bite, and enjoyed relaxing dinner conversation, I kept thinking how David would have loved this restaurant, to say nothing of the views. Aragosta, by the way, is the Italian word for lobster. Of course.

Twilight on the bay, on the walk to Aragosta.

Twilight on the bay, on the walk to Aragosta.

Oysters and salad.

Oysters and salad.

My very delicious lobster ravioli.

My very delicious lobster ravioli.

Fay and me after dinner - happy and sated.

Fay and me after dinner – happy and sated.

Jack and his talented daughter Genny, actress, playwright, singer, musician, songwriter. We know where she got her artistic talent! Dad is a wonderful writer whose prose is beautiful and precise and human insights are startling and real.

Jack and his talented daughter Genny, actress, playwright, singer, musician, songwriter. We know where she got her artistic talent! Is that Jack’s author pose? Methinks it is!

Okay, twist my arm. I'll order dessert - a strawberry tart with strawberry ice cream.

Okay, twist my arm. I’ll order dessert – a strawberry tart with strawberry ice cream.

I will admit that photos are a poor substitute for being there. Photos can’t let you hear the lively rain at night or the early morning shower that gently wakes you up. They can’t let you breathe in the lavender in the garden and the pine all over the island. What they can do is make you say: This is where I want to go next. And come back to again and again. Thank you, Jack and Fay, for the beauty, the shop talk, the meals, the rest and relaxation I craved and received with open arms.

Last night on the waterfront in Stonington.

Last night on the waterfront in Stonington.

Ghostly ships on a gray foggy Sunday morning.

Ghostly ships moored in the bay on a gray foggy Sunday morning.

A little fog and rain, grassy hills, and a view of the bay.

A slightly different view: a little fog and rain, grassy hills, and the bay dotted with ships.

Crossing the bridge on our way out of Stonington.

Crossing the bridge on our way out of Stonington.

Early morning Sunday: a quiet pond after the rain. Goodbye, Stonington.

Early morning Sunday: a quiet pond after the rain. Goodbye, Stonington.

New York, New York: Guggenheim Museum, Grand Central Terminal, & walking Broadway

And New York is the most beautiful city in the world? It is not far from it. No urban night is like the night there…. Squares after squares of flame, set up and cut into the aether. Here is our poetry, for we have pulled down the stars to our will.
 – Ezra Pound, expatriate American poet and critic

On our fourth day in New York, we changed our itinerary when we found out that our friends Jack and Fay Beaudoin, who live in Maine, were in town for the premier of their daughter’s play. More on that later. So we opted to see the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum (1071 Fifth Avenue), on the Upper East Side neighborhood of Manhattan. The Guggenheim Museum, which was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, is home to a growing collection of Impressionist, Post-Impressionist, early Modern, and contemporary  as it rises to the top of its ceiling skylight – is meant to convey “the temple of the spirit.” When you walk into the atrium, you are immediately taken by the lightness, the sun through the skylight, and the spiraling whiteness that seems to lift you up as you begin your journey.

When you first walk in and look up....

When you first walk in and look up…. (photo by David).

More curves (photo by David).

More curves (photo by David).

Like strands of a modern necklace.

Like strands of a modern necklace.

The skylight ceiling (photo by David).

The skylight ceiling (photo by David).

Close-up of the skylight ceiling (photo by David).

Close-up of the skylight ceiling (photo by David).

Looking straight up at the triangular-shaped stairs.

Looking straight up at the triangular-shaped stairs.

Ascending the triangular-shaped stairs (photo by David).

Ascending the triangular-shaped stairs (photo by David).

All the way up, looking down (photo by David).

All the way up, looking down (photo by David).

Coming down, another view of the entrance with pool (photo by David).

Coming down, another view of the entrance with pool (photo by David).

The museum’s namesake belonged to a wealthy mining family and collected traditional works from the old masters going back to the 1890s. When he met artist Hilla von Rebay in 1926, she introduced him to European avant-garde art, he changed his aesthetic. When his collection outgrew his Plaza Hotel apartment, he established the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation in 1937 to “foster the appreciation for modern art.” We took the audio tour, and I have to admit that many of the interpretations struck me as pretentious. I’m not what you would consider a true art aficionado; I like what I see, which is the way our artist friend Gary Stutler told us many years ago we ought to view art. At any rate, I recognized many famous artists, including Constantin Brancusi, Marc Chagall, Vasily Kandinsky, and Piet Mondrian. At least I could appreciate them, thanks to my college art history class. At any rate, here are photos of interesting paintings and exhibits.

Red Cross Train Passing a Village (oil on canvas), 1915, by Gino Severini (photo by David).

Red Cross Train Passing a Village (oil on canvas), 1915, by Gino Severini (photo by David).

Painting with White Border (oil on canvas), 1913, Vasily Kandinsky.

Painting with White Border (oil on canvas), 1913, by Vasily Kandinsky.

Woman Ironing (oil on canvas), 1904, by Pablo Picasso.

Woman Ironing (oil on canvas), 1904, by Pablo Picasso.

Composition 8 (oil on canvas), 1914, by Piet Mondrian.

Composition 8 (oil on canvas), 1914, by Piet Mondrian.

Peasant with Hoe (oil on canvas), 1882, by Georges Seurat.

Peasant with Hoe (oil on canvas), 1882, by Georges Seurat. A favorite for obvious reasons.

Dancers with Green and Yellow (pastel and charcoal on several pieces of tracing paper, mounted to paperboard), 1903, by Edgar Degas.

Dancers with Green and Yellow (pastel and charcoal on several pieces of tracing paper, mounted to paperboard), 1903, by Edgar Degas.

And now for the more recent art installation pieces. Two exhibits struck me deep. Untitled (Ghardaïa) by Kader Attia, who was born in France but works in Algiers, Berlin, and Paris, was installed in 2009. According to the information on the piece, “Attia sculpted a model of the Algerian city of the title in couscous, a regional culinary staple. The fragile and ephemeral structure is accompanied by two prints portraying foundational Western modern architects Le Corbusier and Fernand Pouillon, and by a copy of a UNESCO certificate that officially designates the city of Ghardaïa a World Heritage Site. Attia’s work calls attention to the fact that both designers borrowed from and reworked the Mozabite architecture native to the city of Ghardaïa, and to the ancient Mzab region, without acknowledging their inspiration, itself derived from France’s 19th century colonization of Algeria and subsequent exploitation of its resources.” Wow, what a powerful statement that resonates in today’s dangerous and sad world.

Untitled (Ghardaia) (Couscous, two inkjet prints, and five photocopy prints), 2009, by Kader Attia.

Untitled (Ghardaia) (Couscous, two inkjet prints, and five photocopy prints), 2009, by Kader Attia.

Close-up of the buildings made of couscous.

Close-up of the buildings made of couscous.

The other exhibit that really caught my attention was Flying Carpets by Tunisian artist Nadia Kaabi-Linke. The following is background information on her inspiration for this stainless steel and rubber artwork: “Illegal street vendors – primarily of African, Arab, and South Asian origin – often congregate at Il Ponte del Sepolcro in Venice to sell counterfeit goods to tourists. To avoid unwanted encounters with authorities, they are often required to scoop up their wares in the rugs that they use for display and flee across the bridge. This journey to temporary safety is not only physical but also metaphorical insofar as it encapsulates both the whimsical orientalist fantasy of the flying carpet and the harsh realities experienced by undocumented immigrants who cross the Mediterranean in search of better lives. The proportions of Kaabi-Linke’s sculptural meditation on this scenario – a complex assembly of suspended grids – come directly from those of the vendors’ rugs.” After having read the backstory, I saw her installation – at a glance, just steel and rubber – transform before me and take on a deeper meaning that is, again, so relevant and heartbreaking in today’s world.

Flying Carpets (stainless steel and rubber), 2011, by Nadia Kaabi-Linke (photo by David).

Flying Carpets (stainless steel and rubber), 2011, by Nadia Kaabi-Linke. You can see the multiple shapes of rugs created by the hanging installation and reflected on the walls and polished wooden floor. The overlapping “rugs” gives it a claustrophobic feel (photo by David).

Another view of Flying Carpets (photo by David).

Another view of Flying Carpets (photo by David).

Different shapes and spaces occupied by Flying Carpets (photo by David).

Different shapes and spaces occupied by Flying Carpets (photo by David).

Close-up of Flying Carpets (photo by David).

Close-up of Flying Carpets (photo by David).

We decided against eating museum food and instead hopped on the subway to get to the Grand Central Terminal (the out-of-towners say Grand Central Station) (89 East 42nd Street) and take pictures of the famous station. The terminal was built in 1903 in the Beaux Arts architectural style and is made primarily of granite. According to a 2013 article in World Nuclear Association, because the building is made with so much granite it actually emits relatively high levels of radiation. Good thing we are only passing through! In 2013, 21.9 million visitors passed through the terminal, making it one of the world’s most visited tourist attractions. Grand Central Terminal covers 48 acres and has 44 platforms – more than any other railway station in the world. The other interesting fact about the terminal is that the Metropolitan Transportation Authority does not own it – private firm Midtown TDR Ventures.

Next stop....

Next stop…. (photo by David).

Grand Central Terminal was built in 1903 (photo by David).

Grand Central Terminal was built in 1903 (photo by David).

I believe the flag was raised in the terminal after 9/11 (photo by David).

The American flag was raised in the terminal a few days after 9/11 (photo by David).

The other side of the main concourse.

The other side of the main concourse.

Letter box detail (photo by David).

Letter box detail (photo by David).

Checking out the departures board (photo by David).

Checking out the departures board (photo by David).

Photo op at Grand Central Terminal.

The grandness of Grand Central Terminal.

Heading out, one can get lost in the many tunnels of the terminal (photo by David).

Heading out, one can get lost in the many tunnels of the terminal (photo by David).

We were also advised by a number of friends to eat at the famous Oyster Bar. Instead of sitting down at the bar, which resembled a 1950s luncheon counter, we opted to eat in the restaurant. The food was good, reminding us of Spenger’s Fresh Fish Grotto in Berkeley, which has a 1950s ambiance to its decor. Let’s just say that this was the most expensive meal we had in New York! But our seafood was fresh!

Just follow the signs.

Just follow the signs.

The very retro interior of the Oyster Bar. I kept waiting for the Godfather to walk in....

The very retro interior of the Oyster Bar. I kept waiting for the Godfather to walk in….

Pony up!

Pony up!

My big scallops.

My big scallops.

Jacob and Isabella each ordered their own plate of soft-shell crabs.

Jacob and Isabella each ordered their own plate of soft-shell crabs.

David orders some kind of fish.

David orders some kind of fish.

Still getting along on our vacation on day four.

Still getting along on our vacation on day four.

We coulda eaten at the counter!

We could have eaten at the counter!

After our late lunch, we decided to take a leisurely walk to where we were going to meet Jack and Fay. First, we headed to the New York Public Library (5th Avenue at 42nd Street), which is a grand building. Founded in 1895, the NYPL is the largest public library system in the country, comprising 88 neighborhood branches and four scholarly research centers. With 51 million holdings, including books, e-books, DVDs, and important research collections, NYPL serves more than 17 million patrons yearly, and millions via online access. Behind the library is Bryant Park, home to Project Runway’s runway finale. From there, we hiked to Times Square for a brief sprint, just so the kids could see where everyone gathers on New Year’s Eve. Time Square, which is located in Midtown Manhattan, begins at Broadway and Seventh Avenue and spans out from 42nd Street to 47th Street. We couldn’t get away fast enough. It was a hot day and there were too many people and cars in the area.

Walking up the steps of the majestic New York Public Library (photo by David).

Walking up the steps of the majestic New York Public Library, which was designed in the Beaux-Arts style (photo by David).

Either Patience or Fortitude, one half of the pair of famous marble lions, which was a part of the Beaux-Arts-style building when it was dedicated on May 23, 1911 (photo by David).

Sunning itself on a hot Saturday afternoon is either Patience or Fortitude, one half of the pair of famous marble lions, which were a part of the Library when it was dedicated on May 23, 1911 (photo by David).

Detail of the NYPL building (photo by David).

Detail of the NYPL building (photo by David).

Looking up once you reach the top of the stairs of the NYPL.

Looking up once you reach the top of the stairs of the NYPL.

Stairs leading to the upper floors of NYPL (photo by David).

Stairs leading to the upper floors of NYPL (photo by David).

An enterprising writer sets up shop in front of the NYPL. What a great idea!

An enterprising writer sets up shop in front of the NYPL. Meet the author, indeed! What a great idea!

David and the kids hemmed in by Times Square, people, and a sea of taxis behind them.

David and the kids hemmed in by Times Square, people, and a sea of taxis behind them.

We kept walking downtown on Broadway, taking note of how the neighborhood was changing from the glitz of Times Square to some gritty areas. At any rate, one of the points of destination was the Flatiron Building (174 5th Avenue), which David and I had seen in 2008 but did not have a picture of since we didn’t bring a camera on that trip. At the time it opened in 1902, the 22-floor, steel-framed triangular-shaped building was considered to be a groundbreaking skyscraper. We took a little respite at Madison Square Park (at the intersection of 5th Avenue, Broadway, and 23rd Street), a.k.a. a nap, before continuing on our walk.

The majestic Flatiron Building (photo by David).

The majestic Flatiron Building (photo by David).

We met up with Jack and Fay, daughters Camille and Genny, and Genny’s friend, for drinks at Narcissa Restaurant (25 Cooper Square). We had a great time, marveling at the fact that we could end up in New York City at the same time and being able to get together.

The Beaudoin and the Enrado-Rossi clans.

The Beaudoin and the Enrado-Rossi clans.

Afterwards, since we were already downtown or in  Lower Manhattan, we walked all the way back to Little Italy. I can assure you that we easily logged ten thousand or more steps that day. Our friend Sandy recommended The Egg Shop (151 Elizabeth Street, 646.666.0810) since it was in our neighborhood. Her mother, who had recently visited New York, had gone to and liked The Egg Shop. So we had a late dinner at this cute little café that serves – you guessed it – all kinds of dishes, especially creatively concocted sandwiches, made with organic and locally sourced eggs. It was a quiet way to end another packed day of walking and touring.

David’s El Guapo, slow-cooked pork shoulder, honeyed spaghetti squash, tomatillos and pumpkin seeds in achiote cola mole with egg white queso fresco, served with blue corn tortillas.

David’s El Guapo, slow-cooked pork shoulder, honeyed spaghetti squash, tomatillos and pumpkin seeds in achiote cola mole with egg white queso fresco, served with blue corn tortillas.

My tasty Bec Burger and fries comprised a beef burger, sunny-up egg, white cheddar, black forest bacon, tomato jam, fresh pickled jalapeno on a panini roll.

Jacob’s hearty BEC Burger and fries comprised a beef burger, sunny-up egg, white cheddar, black forest bacon, tomato jam, fresh pickled jalapeno on a panini roll.

My B.E.C., which is basically the same as Jacob's dish but instead of a beef burger, mine was just a broke yoke. And it was still very filling!

My Egg Shop B.E.C., which is basically the same as Jacob’s dish but instead of a beef burger, mine was just a broke yoke. And it was still very filling!

A nice homey feel to the Egg Shop.

A nice homey feel to the Egg Shop.

Green Apple Books: reunion time

When I visit a new bookstore, I demand cleanliness, computer monitors, and rigorous alphabetization. When I visit a secondhand bookstore, I prefer indifferent housekeeping, sleeping cats, and sufficient organizational chaos . . .
― Anne Fadiman, American essayist and reporter, from Ex Libras: Confessions of a Common Reader

For weeks I was stressed out about my book reading event at Green Apple Books (506 Clement Street, San Francisco, CA 94118, 415.387.2272). Would enough people show up? At a certain point, after numerous local media listings, FB posts, and tweets and retweets from family friends, I told myself to go and have fun. And I did.

My old neighborhood indie bookstore in the Inner Richmond district in San Francisco.

My old neighborhood indie bookstore in the Inner Richmond district in San Francisco.

We met our dear friends Alex and Victor for dinner at King’s Thai Cuisine a block away from the bookstore in the Inner Richmond district. That put me at ease. When we walked into Green Apple Books, which I haven’t set foot in since I lived in the neighborhood after returning from grad school in Syracuse 25 years ago, I felt as if the shop hadn’t changed at all ― the scarred, uneven hardwood floors. Shelves bursting with books. The tight staircase leading us to the second floor and then around the corner to a tiny room, the reading room. The room was wallpapered with shelves of books.

Isn't this a great little room? Books, books, and more books!

Isn’t this a great little room? Books, books, and more books!

Reading in a cozy reading room.

Reading in a cozy reading room.

The room was cozy enough that the 18 people there, including Green Apple Books’s Ray, who introduced me, made the reading a full house. But if I had to pick 18 people to the reading in San Francisco, everyone who was there would have been on that list. Stephen from the American Friends Service Committee (AFSC), which is a Quaker organization that promotes peace and justice, was already there with his partner. AFSC supported the farm workers during the strike in the 1960s, and in the late 1990s and early 2000s, Stephen helped me with some research. So it was great to finally meet him. There was a time when he sent me an email out of the blue a number of years after helping me, asking me if my novel had been published. Um, no, I had to tell him back then. But when my novel was accepted to be published, he was one of the first ones I reached out to so I could share the news.

Reading close-up.

Reading close-up.

Ali, my Jesuit Volunteer Corps. mentor, when I was a Jesuit Volunteer in San Francisco from 1987-88, also came. Though she stayed in the City after her JVC service, I haven’t seen Ali in more than 20 years. I saw her slip in while I was reading, and I was so thrilled and couldn’t wait to catch up with her after the reading.

My JVC mentor Ali!

My JVC mentor Ali!

Andy, who was on the same dorm floor ― Struve II ― as I at the University of California at Davis, arrived just before the evening program started, and he looks the same. I haven’t seen Andy in more than 15 years, so it was great to see him.

Signing books for my college friend Andy.

Signing books for my college friend Andy.

My cousin Daniel came, which was sweet because he was at my book launch a few week earlier at Eastwind Books of Berkeley. One couple came, with the woman telling me that she is Filipino and grew up in Watsonville. She told me later that everything I’d read rang true to her, as she had grown up in the fields. David’s old structural engineering co-workers from a previous company also came, and we haven’t seen them in several years, either. So it was a reunion of sorts, not only with old friends but with my old neighborhood indie bookstore too.

Goodnight, Green Apple Books!

Goodnight, Green Apple Books!