National Filipino-American History Month: exploring our diaspora

Men who had poetry in their soul come silently into the world and live quietly down the years, and yet when they are gone no moon in the sky is lucid enough to compare with the light they shed when they are among the living. – Carlos Bulosan, Filipino-American novelist and poet, Charlie Chan is Dead: An Anthology of Contemporary Asian American Fiction

I just finished watching a video celebrating the Asian American and Asian Diaspora Studies Program at the University of California at Berkeley, which I found while exploring the meaning of Asian and Pacific Islander diasporas. I’ve always been intrigued with the word “diaspora,” which I’d first come across many years ago in a flyer describing an independent film about displaced Africans. For me, what it boils down to is a search for identity when you are no longer home – whether you were forced out or felt you had to leave your homeland – but with the circumstances of your flight greatly informing the process of identification and the identity or identities you take on.

Diaspora literally means “Jews living outside Israel, the dispersion of Jews beyond Israel, the dispersion of any people from their original homeland.” It’s a state of disruptive being and one that is, of course, constantly evolving. I’ve been refining my query letter for my novel, A Village in the Fields, adding or deleting historical facts or descriptions of my novel as I personalize each query for the intended literary agent. But one description that I have kept throughout all of the queries is this:

“This novel encompasses more than the Filipino farm workers’ struggles in the fields. It also chronicles the Filipino community that my father and his cousins built in the farming town of Terra Bella in the Central Valley. Upon examining their lives, I found that as immigrants my father and his cousins were trying to determine what home is and who encompassed their concept of family when they were far away from home. I sought to answer those questions through my characters, in particular my protagonist, Fausto Empleo, whose story is at the heart of A Village in the Fields.”

Filipino immigrants leaving the ship that brought them to America (photo credit: everyculture.com).

Filipino immigrants leaving the ship that brought them to America (photo credit: everyculture.com).

October is National Filipino American month, and this year I’m celebrating it with yet another excerpt from my novel, with an eye toward diaspora. In this scene Fausto recounts to his nurse, Arturo, the boat ride that took him from Manila to Seattle in 1929:

Fausto took comfort in his cabin mates—four others besides Benny. Three had cousins or uncles waiting for them in America. Vermil Bienvenido spoke good English. He had worked in hotels in Manila and was counting on making more money in the American hotels. Ambo Ayson’s uncle had a restaurant job waiting for him in New York City. Arsenio Magsaysay hailed from Santa Maria, ten kilometers north of San Esteban. As he rolled cigarettes made from his family-grown tobacco for his cabin mates, he told them he expected his work in the fields would serve him well on American farms. Vermil and Arsenio were going to return home rich. Ambo wanted to remain in the States but visit his hometown, bringing gifts for his nine sisters, his parents, and grandparents. Everyone’s heart was still in the Philippines, except for Jun Villanueva.

Jun didn’t talk much, but one evening when Arsenio spoke longingly of his family’s land, Jun cut him off, blurting out that there was no future in his hometown of San Fernando. When Jun declared he would never return because he hated his country, his cabin mates wanted to fight him—even Fausto. It was as if he had spit on their mothers! Fausto calmed down and convinced the others to go up deck to cool their heads so he could talk to Jun. With just the two of them in the cabin, Jun complained that the rice they served on the ship had too much grit. His mother milled rice with a mortar and pestle, which made it taste more fragrant. Fausto told him the rice would be better once they got off the ship, but Jun said it would always taste bitter in his mouth. His family had lost their fields to harsh weather, which ruined their crops, and cheating agents who made it impossible to make a living off of the harvests. The new landlords overcharged, but his parents conceded just so they could stay on his lelong’s land.

“I told him he did not hate his country,” Fausto said to Arturo. “The people in power were dishonest. I told him he would realize that—maybe not now, but later—when he is in America and he grows homesick. I admitted I was already homesick.”

Fausto massaged his eyelids, bringing up an image of the teenaged boy who sat rigid in the bunk opposite him. Jun’s face and body were angular and hard. His eyes, mere slits, told everybody he trusted no one. The part in his hair was severe, a white streak. But when Fausto told him his homesickness was their secret, the hardness melted away. Jun yanked the bunk’s wool blanket over his head and began wailing.

“There is no shame in being scared or angry.” Fausto pulled the blanket down and locked his hand on Jun’s knee, which Jun had pulled up and tucked under his chin.

“If they had not taken our land, I would not be here!”

Astun, astun,” Fausto said softly. “You will get it back. You put your anger to hard work in America, eh? Then you return. But you are tired, you need to rest.”

“I cannot stay here. They all hate me.” Jun sat up, amid the empty bunks.

Fausto promised to talk to them; they would understand his family’s hardships. Jun lay down, crossing his arms, but when Fausto patted his hand, Jun grabbed it and held tight. Neither of them moved. As Fausto watched Jun sleep, he thought of what they had left behind. His life in San Esteban was not so bad after all. Homesickness gnawed a hole in his stomach, but he wove his fingers with Jun’s until they were entwined.

Benny and the others offered Jun extra bread and fruit that they had smuggled out of the kitchen, but Jun wouldn’t accept them. Fausto didn’t know what happened to him when they landed in Seattle and parted ways. When he was working near Stockton years later, a pinoy on his asparagus crew told him about a pinoy named Jun Villanueva. The two Villanuevas shared similar stories from back home. At the time he heard this story, the American government had passed a law giving pinoys free passage to return to the Philippines. Not many took it. Fausto later found out that if a pinoy accepted the offer, he could never return to America. This Villanueva had gotten into trouble up and down California, fighting with whites and pinoys alike and landing in jail. He took the free passage, bragging to anyone who would listen that he was glad to be leaving.

“You think it was the Jun from your ship?” Arturo was on his second cup of coffee.

“When I heard the story, I hoped it was not him,” Fausto said. “I did not want to think he had no place to call home. When we landed, he said he wanted to keep in touch. I gave him the address in Los Angeles where my cousins lived, but I never heard from him again.” Fausto stared into his cup, his watery black reflection now cold. “Last time I saw him he was walking off the pier. But he looked like any of us leaving the ship. He was all of us leaving the ship.”

Farm workers in an asparagus delta farm in California, circa early 1930s (photo credit: Frank Mancao).

Farm workers in an asparagus delta farm in California, circa early 1930s (photo credit: Frank Mancao).

The Gratitude Challenge: 7 days of thoughtful gratitude

Piglet noticed that even though he had a Very Small Heart, it could hold a rather large amount of Gratitude.
– A.A. Milne, English author and poet, from Winnie the Pooh

I got on Facebook to help promote my writing, but I soon discovered that it connected me with friends both near and far-flung, friends from my deep past to recent acquaintances. I rarely participate  in the chain-letter-type activities that make the rounds on Facebook. I read about the Gratitude Challenge being taken on by a number of friends and was soon nominated by my good friend Laurel Kallenbach. With my participation now concluded, I share my seven days of gratitude here on my blog.

Day 1 – baseball is life, life is baseball
Thank you, Laurel Kallenbach, for nominating me for the Gratitude Challenge. I was nominated to list 3 things I’m grateful for every day for a week and nominate 3 people each day to do the same. Today, September 21st, is my first day (baseball gratitude theme) and I nominate Jack Beaudoin, Kara De La Paz, and Cecie Uytingco Mendoza.

1. I am grateful for David, who told me to go ahead and go to the baseball game today and he would do the tons of laundry and cleaning today and watch Isabella and her friend Kelly.

2. I am grateful for Jacob, who said, “Mom, I want to go to the game with you.” (Because David and Isabella didn’t want to.) I’m grateful that he still wants to spend time with me, even though he’s a teenager, and that we have more meaningful conversations and discussions.

3. I am grateful that my last regular-season Oakland A’s game that I attended this year ended with a win, which allowed us to celebrate with the crazy right-field bleacher loyal fans. “Never Quit” and “Keep Fighting”

Spontaneous partners in crime: our friends Robert and his son, Sasha, join us in cheering the 10th-inning walk-off home run win.

Spontaneous partners in crime: our friends Robert and his son, Sasha, join us in the right-field bleachers. At the moment all seems glum, but soon we will be cheering the 10th-inning walk-off home run by Josh Donaldson, aka The Bringer of Rain (Photo credit: Mike DeMay – thanks, Mike!).

Day 2 – labor day
I was nominated to list 3 things I’m grateful for every day for a week and nominate 3 people each day to do the same. Today, September 22nd, is Day 2 (Work gratitude theme, appropriately for a Monday) and I nominate Gordon Hunt, Eric Wicklund, and Diana Manos for the Gratitude Challenge.

1. I’m grateful to have great, hardworking colleagues around me to get the job done. Even though I work remotely, I am part of a great team who appreciates and supports what I do.

2. I’m grateful to work at home and be there for my kids – like the time both had pneumonia two winters ago, separate times, of course, and both were out of school for two weeks each. Did not have to eat up vacation days. Working at home also allows me to walk Isabella to school every morning.

3. I’m especially grateful for my geriatric companion, Rex, who keeps me company in the nearby library. While he’s not a great personal assistant, at least he sleeps most of the day and lets me get my work done. I can’t imagine my work day without him.

Rex ready for a Monday morning.

Rex ready for a Monday morning.

Day 3 – supporting our public schools
I was nominated to list 3 things I’m grateful for every day for a week and nominate 3 people each day to do the same. Today, September 23rd, is Day 3 (school gratitude) and I nominate Juliet Jamsheed, Daniel Philippe, and Denise Portello Evans.

1. I attended my first Investing in Academic Excellence meeting at El Cerrito High School last night, and I’m really excited to help this important organization raise funds for various school initiatives. I am grateful for the ECHS families who are working really hard for the school – the new families I’m meeting and the good friends whom I’ve known for years and whose end of journey together is less than four years away. I’m grateful that Jacob is off to a great start as a freshman there and has some inspirational teachers and a solid principal.

2. I am grateful for the two years we concluded at Portola Middle School (Korematsu now). We had two really wonderful teachers who have made a lasting impression on Jacob and a hardworking principal. Looking forward to returning there next year, in the new campus.

3. We are finishing up 10 years at Harding Elementary School this year. While I’m excited about finally leaving elementary school, I am forever grateful for the inspirational teachers and the many wonderful families and friends I’ve met and worked with on behalf of the school. I’ve made life-long friends and I’ve watched some pretty special kids grow up with my kids.

A Harding tradition: getting families together for a potluck after the last day of school. Here with friends Tana and Lori after our kids finished up fifth grade, celebrating at Arlington Park.

A Harding Elementary School tradition: getting families together for a potluck after the last day of school. Here with friends Tana and Lori, watching our kids, who finished fifth grade, play at Arlington Park this past June.

Day 4 – or purpose in life: giving back
I was nominated to list 3 things I’m grateful for every day for a week and nominate 3 people each day to do the same. I just read an article on Melinda Gates and her work with the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation and was inspired by her desire to make the world better. Today, September 24th, is Day 4 (giving and helping others theme) and I nominate Anja Hakoshima, Kimi Ynigues, and Kathy Brackett.

1. I am grateful for the work that my friend Jane Fischberg and her colleagues do at Rubicon Programs, whose mission is to “prepare low-income people to achieve financial independence and to partner with people with mental illness on their journey of recovery.” Especially in this current political climate, supporting both groups is not very popular, making their work even more challenging. But my friend Jane has a big heart and strong resolve. In an interview with me, she said, “I really do believe in giving back and I feel like a life of not giving back is not fulfilling. I’ve always felt the reason for living is to be of service, so that informed what I’ve always done.”

2. I am grateful for the work that my friend Alissa Hauser and her colleagues do at The Pollination Project, whose mission is to “expand compassion to the planet, people, and animals.” The Pollination Project’s mission aligns with Alissa’s philosophy: “What I’m most committed to is creating more kindness and compassion in the world,” she said. “There are so many ways to do it; there are so many ways I have done it. But at the end of the day, I just want to be a person who inspires other people to be nice to one another, no matter who they are or what they’ve done.”

3. I am grateful for my daughter, Isabella, who also has a big heart. She and her friends have baked cookies and made lemonade to sell at various parks to raise money for the Milo Foundation. She talks about wanting to save endangered animals, rescuing dogs from being put down, saving the earth from the harm that we do to it, and more. I want to continue nurturing in her that desire of giving and helping others.

Isabella and her friends have been selling cookies and lemonade for the Milo Foundation.

Isabella and her friends have been selling cookies and lemonade for the Milo Foundation.

Day 5 – our Indian summer fall
I was nominated to list 3 things I’m grateful for every day for a week and nominate 3 people each day to do the same. Today, September 25th, is Day 5 (Nature theme) and I nominate Rose Cee, David Bruce-Casares, and Claire Richardson.

1. I am grateful for the rain that woke me up early this morning. While we have a long way to go to erase California’s drought, it’s a start, an early one at that.

2. I am grateful for the maple leaves changing color, announcing autumn’s return. The display is definitely not as spectacular as the leaves changing in the Northeast or other parts of the country, but all I need is a golden ginkgo and a flaming red and orange maple tree and I’m ready to celebrate one of my favorite seasons.

3. I am grateful for the small resurgence of my garden, which was stricken with powdery mildew in late July and pretty much petered out and left me with charred buds and dried-out sticks. However, with our Indian summer in full force, the carnations, fuschia, scabiosas, and poppies are bursting from their pots – a final send-off and blast of cream, purple, pink, red and white ripples.

Indian summer autumn bouquet.

Indian summer autumn bouquet.

Day 6 – TGIF
I was nominated to list 3 things I’m grateful for every day for a week and nominate 3 people each day to do the same. Today, September 26th, is Day 6 (TGIF theme) and I nominate John Buettner, Julie Redlin, and Maria Francesca.

1. I am grateful for my pumpkin-spiced chai latte that gets me through the mornings. My day starts on East coast time, so by the time I sit down to eat my breakfast and begin work again, I have already gone through my work e-mail and immediate, deadline-oriented work tasks, done my exercises and ridden my bike, walked Rex, and dropped off Isabella at school. The moment I settle into my office chair and sip my chai latte, I literally catch my second wind.

2. I am grateful for the mellow glass of red wine that will help me unwind in the evening. It’s something I look forward to when Friday evening hits and the work week is behind me.

3. I am grateful for a quiet Friday evening, watching the A’s win and now enjoying the rest of the fall evening with David and Isabella.

Even Rex is chillin' on an autumn Friday evening.

Even Rex is chillin’ on an autumn Friday evening.

Day 7 – a writer’s heart-felt thank you
I was nominated to list 3 things I’m grateful for every day for a week and nominate 3 people each day to do the same. Today, September 27th, is my last day, Day 7 (writer’s gratitude), and I nominate Yoko Morita, Alex Davis, and Nancy Donovan.

1. I am grateful for discovering and embracing the written word and the many gifts it brings – the sentence that dances, the character who enrages you, the places you can taste and touch, the moment created that brings you to a moment of truth in your past, the page that keeps you turning it, the book that leaves you bereft because the magic has ended.

2. I am grateful for the community of writers I have met throughout my life and call my friends, mentors, fellow writers, and careful readers – you know who you are, but a special shout out to Jack Beaudoin, Laurel Kallenbach, John Farrell, and Sands Hall.

3. I am grateful for my non-writer friends and family who have nurtured me in so many different ways – as careful readers, muses, emotional supporters, and more – you know who you are, too, but a special shout out to Kathy Brackett and David, always.

John, me, and Jack with our "author poses" at the Orange Grove, Syracuse University, 1990.

John, me, and Jack with our “author poses” at the Orange Grove, Syracuse University, 1990.

This exercise made me realize how many things, events, and people I am grateful for every day but oftentimes in the rush of the day I don’t reflect fully or give appropriate props. I’ll remember this challenge and remind myself every evening, during a quiet moment before I retire for the night, to look back on my day and give gratitude. Thanks again, Laurel, for the nomination!

In praise of a good story.

In praise of a good story – both reading one and writing one (door sign given to me by my college and good friend Susie Merrill many, many moons ago, which still holds a prominent place in my office).

September 8, 1965: 49th anniversary of the Delano grape strike walkout and an excerpt

September 8, 1965. That was when about 1,500 Filipinos went out on strike against the grape growers in Delano, California.
– Pete Velasco, Filipino-American activist and Treasurer of the United Farm Union

One of my aunts still picking grapes in her 60s, summer 2005.

One of my aunts picking grapes, summer 2005.

Today marks the 49th anniversary of the walkout of farm workers from the vineyards in Delano, California. It is a historic day not just for Filipino Americans – whose forefathers struck for better wages and working conditions – farm workers, and the labor movement, but it’s a historic day for every American. The day before, September 7th, members of the Agricultural Workers Organizing Committee (AWOC) took a vote to strike and in the early morning of September 8th, AWOC members sat down in the fields, walked out, or did not go to work.

In honor of that day, I offer an excerpt from my novel, A Village in the Fields, Chapter 11: Empty Fields, Empty House (Delano, September 1965-May 1966):

“Friends, come out of the fields! Join us in our struggle! We must all be together to succeed!” Fausto shouted from across the road. When the workers didn’t respond, he cupped his hands to his chapped lips and repeated in Ilocano, “Gagayem, rumuar kayo amin! Masapol nga agtitinulong tayo! Tapno makamtan tayo ti karang-ayan!”

Benny grabbed Fausto’s arm and squeezed it. Fausto imagined that his own face mirrored the mix of surprise and giddiness on his cousin’s face as they watched their fellow pinoys drop their clippers and slowly stream out of the fields. The sun was rising, though the air was cold and the sky tinted pink. Fausto stuffed his hands in his coat pockets. Benny stamped his feet to keep warm. By midday, the sun’s full strength would scorch the earth. When their countrymen crossed the road, Fausto and Benny threw their arms around them, congratulating them for their bravery, but the look in their eyes told them they were not yet convinced they were doing the right thing. None lived in the Cuculich camp or had attended any union meetings. Fausto recognized a handful as regulars at the pool halls and barbershops in Delano; they were local workers, some with families—not the migrant pinoys who had struck down south.

“You heard about the strike in Coachella, eh?” Fausto asked the group of men. “Our countrymen struck for ten days in the spring and the growers gave in. Some of these pinoys have come to Delano expecting the same wages. But the growers here are only paying a dollar ten. Is that fair to any of us?”

All eyes were on Fausto as they shook their heads.

“Then we must fight back!” Benny said. “We must strike for what is fair.”

“But what if the growers doan give in?” an elderly pinoy with milky eyes asked. “I seen what happen in the lettuce fields when nobody backs down.”

“The pinoys who struck down south don’t live here like we do,” another one said.

“Delano is our home. We don’t want our town mad at our families.”

“I have a wife and four kids,” a man in the back called out. With his gray hair, he looked to be the same age as Fausto and Benny. “We cannot feed on uncertainty.”

“Can you guarantee us the strike will end soon?” a stubbly faced pinoy demanded.

“We make sacrifices now to secure our future, manongs.” Fausto hoped that by using the term of respect manong to mean brother they would be more comfortable around him. “All we are asking for is decent wages and a union contract. If we can get all our brothers out of the fields—maybe a thousand today, two thousand tomorrow—then we have power. The strike cannot survive more than ten days. The growers cannot afford to lose their whole crop.” As the men looked at the vines thick with leaves, the ripe berries pulling down the branches, Fausto said, “Two years ago, these growers paid more than any other place in California. This year they are paying less. Do you have such short memories? They are paying less because they can, manongs. Ai, think with your heads!”

“We want the growers to sign contracts to guarantee us fair wages,” Benny said, when the men stared at Fausto in silence. “We are asking for one forty an hour and twenty-five cents a box. This is what you all deserve, manongs. Please listen to us.”

“Then what do we do now?”

“Where do we go?”

“My boss, Mr. Radic, will kick me out of camp,” the milky-eyed pinoy said.

“Manong, how many years do you have left in the fields?” Fausto asked in a gentle voice. When the old man shrugged his shoulders, he went on, “I heard Radic kicks out old pinoys when they can no longer work. He tells them his bunkhouses are not retirement homes or hospitals. He’s not keeping you in his bunkhouse out of charity! He has been overcharging you for years, making money off of you! Will it matter if he’s angry with you?” He couldn’t help but laugh. “Manong, Radic has deducted ten cents every hour you worked in his fields for how many decades now? You own that camp!”

The old man began to weep in his hands, the dirt on his fingers turning muddy. Fausto pulled out his handkerchief to wipe the old man’s eyes.

“I don’t live in Radic’s camp,” the man with the family spoke up, “and I got years of work ahead of me, but I cannot afford to have Radic mad at me.”

Fausto told them thirty farms were being picketed. “Go find work for the growers who are not on the list,” he said. “When the strike ends, then you can go back to Radic.”

So far, he and Benny had avoided scouting and picketing the Cuculich farm. As owner of one of the largest farms, Mr. Cuculich employed hundreds of workers. If all of them left, Larry Itliong told Fausto, the strike would end sooner. Fausto argued that Mr. Cuculich was not like John Depolo, who had a reputation for having the most workers suffer from heat exhaustion and heat stroke. But to Larry, all the growers were the same. Larry advised Fausto and the other pinoy AWOC members to picket the farms of other growers to avoid being punished by their long-time bosses once the strike ended.
The idle workers shifted their feet, hands deep in the pockets of their jeans, waiting for Fausto to speak. “With your help, the strike will end soon,” he assured them.

“Go! Go now!” Benny said, and waved his arms to shoo them away.

They herded them toward the small lot of cars by the shoulder of the road and stood there until everyone piled into their cars and the caravan drove away.

“Can it be this easy?” Benny said to Fausto, as the last of the red taillights disappeared around the corner of the road.

“Ai, nothing worth fighting for is easy. This will be a long journey,” Fausto said.

Down the road small bands of picketing AWOC members—all pinoys, including Prudencio, Ayong, and Fidel—hung around Frank Radic’s property, but Fausto wanted to head back to the Filipino Hall, AWOC’s headquarters. The morning of the strike, Ayong told them the hall was filled with veterans—elderly pinoys who had weathered strikes in the lettuce and asparagus fields since the nineteen-twenties—and farm workers, many with families, who had never engaged in strikes or other union activity. The newcomers were eager to help, but they needed to be educated. Even Fausto didn’t know what to do beyond picketing farms and getting his countrymen and strikebreakers out of the fields.

Benny slapped his palms together to warm them up. “Maybe later we’ll picket the packing sheds and the cold-storage plants along Glenwood Street.”

As they walked to the Bel-Air, a pickup truck veered onto the shoulder of the road and shuddered to a halt inches from Fausto, who stood with shaky legs. He recognized the man with sideburns who hopped out of the cab as one of Frank Radic’s sons. Benny stepped back as the man raised a shotgun above his head, but Fausto didn’t move.

“Get off my land!” Clifford said, pumping the shotgun like a dumbbell.

Fausto pointed to the vineyards across the street. “We are not on your land.”

“Don’t act like you know more than me!” Clifford said.

“All we are asking for is a decent wage,” Benny managed to say.

“You ought to be working like every red-blooded American in this country!” Clifford swallowed hard, his Adam’s apple bobbing up and down his skinny neck. “My great grandpa was a sharecropper, but he built this business from the ground up by himself. Now you’re trying to cheat our family without working hard yourself!”

“The government gives growers water for free and these farms live off the sweat of the braceros, Chicanos, Filipinos, blacks, Puerto Ricans, and Arabs.” Fausto spoke in a loud voice to drown out his thrashing heartbeat. “This is how these farms grew.”

Clifford worked his mouth open as if he hadn’t expected an old Filipino farm worker to know anything beyond picking grapes and pruning vines. “You don’t know what you’re talking about!” He raised the shotgun high in the air and pulled the trigger.

Fausto shook his head to stop his ears from ringing. Benny grabbed his arms and their eyes met, but Fausto brushed off Benny’s hands and the fear in his cousin’s face. As picketers rushed toward them, Clifford hurled the shotgun through the open window of the cab. He revved up the engine and spun the pickup truck around, spitting out dirt beneath the fat tires, before rocketing onto the blacktop and down the road.

“Are you okay?”

Fausto recognized Ayong’s voice, his friend’s knotty fingers on his shoulder. He nodded, though his numbed neck felt as if the Radic boy had aimed for his throat.

“This is not good,” Benny whispered.

“I’m going to cut off that sonavabeech’s balls off with a bolo!” Prudencio sliced the cold air with his straw hat, as other pinoys gathered around Fausto.

Fausto raised his hands. “They’re angry because they’re scared. If enough workers leave, they will lose the whole harvest. They will not risk such a loss.”

“But even if they raise our wages, they will still be angry and harm us somehow,” Benny said in a quiet voice. “I’m afraid.”

Fausto gave Benny a withering look. “If you are afraid, then don’t show it.”

“Listen to Fausto,” Fidel Europa said, leaning in.

“Listen to us all!” Prudencio clapped Benny’s shoulder. “They can break us if we are weak and scared. So be strong, manong. Let us all be strong.”

The pinoys, grim faced and silent, raised their fists above their heads as they retreated to their cars. Prudencio and Ayong were going back to the Cuculich camp to check up on their bunkmates, who had refused to leave camp for work. As Fausto and Benny left, they passed rows and rows of berries hung low on the vines. Like Mr. Cuculich, Frank Radic would not let his grapes be picked until they were sweet. Let them drop to the earth, Fausto entreated. Let them drop until the growers given in. Let the flies be more plentiful in the fields than the rotting grapes and the vanishing workers.

Ripe Ribier grapes in September - the jewels in the fields.

Ripe Ribier grapes in September – the jewels in the fields.

Interacting with Philly’s hands-on museums

Equipped with his five senses, man explores the universe around him and calls the adventure science.
– Edwin Powell Hubble, American astronomer and one of the most important observational cosmologists of the 20th century

When going on a family vacation to a major city, we seek science and natural science museums, mostly for the kids’ entertainment, and in Philadelphia we visited some great interactive venues.

The entrance to the Franklin Institute.

The entrance to the Franklin Institute.

The Franklin Institute: ‘having fun down to a science’
The Franklin Institute (222 North 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103, 215.448.1200), opened in 1825, is one of the oldest centers of science education and development in the U.S. Newly expanded, it has 12 permanent exhibit galleries, including a flight simulator, which David and Jacob gamely took on. The Circus! exhibit featured a look at how biology and physics enabled circus performers to swallow swords and fly from cannons; neither kid, however, ventured to check out the trapeze or cannon exhibits. The Ocean Soul by National Geographic featured renowned photographer Brian Skerry and his up-close-and-personal, bursting-with-color photographs of the deep sea and its creatures. Other exhibits included learning about how the brain and heart work and understanding the physics in sports.

A big statue of the institute's namesake graces the rotunda.

A big statue of the institute’s namesake graces the rotunda.

Philadelphia History Museum: hometown history begins here
Not a science museum, but the Philadelphia History Museum at the Atwater Kent (15 South 7th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106, 215.685.4830) feels somewhat interactive because visitors are surrounded by more than 100,000 historical objects, art, and artifacts of Philadelphia residents past and present in this very intimate museum. Founded in 1938 and reopened in 2012 after a three-year renovation, it was set up to be the city’s history museum, chronicling its time from the 1680s to present day. Face to Facebook is an interesting exhibit featuring portraits of Philadelphians from the 17th to the 21st centuries and how they viewed themselves. The main gallery of the eight-gallery museum consists of a large map of the city and surrounding suburbs. The museum is also actively collecting stories from residents to further capture the history of this vibrant city.

Checking out the room-sized map of the city at the Philadelphia History Museum.

Checking out the room-sized map of the city at the Philadelphia History Museum.

The Academy of Natural Sciences of Drexel University: ‘where science runs wild’
The Academy of Natural Sciences (1900 Benjamin Franklin Parkway, Philadelphia, PA 19103, 215.299.1000) of Drexel University was founded in 1812 and is the oldest natural science research institution and museum in the New World. This leading natural history museum is dedicated to advancing research, education, and public engagement in biodiversity and environmental science. Hands-down, this was one of the kids and our (adults) favorite museums in Philadelphia. Dinosaurs have been a love of the kids since they were toddlers, so the Dinosaur Hall, housed in the first floor, was the natural first stop.

Academy of Natural Sciences of Drexel University.

Academy of Natural Sciences of Drexel University.

We love butterflies, so we hung out at the top floor, which housed the winged creatures’ exhibit, and spent quite a bit of time patiently photographing them (and jostling for position with other photographers, as well). Complementing the butterfly exhibit, which is permanent, is the Pinned: Insect Art, Insect Science exhibit in the Art of Science Gallery. Artist Christopher Marley created intricate mosaics of insect specimens paired up with specimens from the Academy’s Entomology Collection.

We were obsessed with the butterflies.

We were obsessed with the butterflies.

The Academy boasts 37 dioramas, which seem archaic in our technology-driven world. While most of them were put together from the 1930s to the 1950s, they still haunt, intrigue, and instill wonder. A fascinating video and side exhibit demonstrated how these dioramas were created. While many feature familiar animals such as lions, zebras, gorillas, antelope, and other animals from Africa and Asia, the extinct passenger pigeon diorama is a sobering reminder of how fragile our ecosystem is.

More butterflies.

More butterflies.

One of our favorite exhibits was the Birds of Paradise: Amazing Avian Evolution, co-developed by the National Geographic and the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, which ran from May through Labor Day Weekend. The exhibit, which highlighted the groundbreaking research of photographer Tim Laman and Cornell ornithologist Edwin Scholes, transported us to the rainforests of New Guinea, where they painstakingly recorded, vividly photographed, and filmed the many different birds-of-paradise in their habitat, capturing such wondrous sights as their courtship dances. Laman and Scholes are passionate about educating the public about conserving the rainforests, home of these amazing birds, and the exhibit did a great job of teaching our kids the importance of protecting habitats such as rainforests and their inhabitants all over the world.

We didn’t catch every single museum in Philadelphia, but we sure did try. And enjoyed and educated ourselves along the way.

Another beautiful butterfly.

Another beautiful butterfly.

Philly museums: Rodin, fine art, and Dr. Albert Barnes

Living with and studying good paintings offers greater interest, variety, and satisfaction than any other pleasure known to man.
– Albert C. Barnes, physician, chemist, businessman, art collector, writer, educator, and founder of the Barnes Foundation

A trip to any city is not complete without exploring its fine art museums. Philadelphia is blessed with many, and we were fortunate to view and admire the many famous paintings, sculptures, and other objets d’art housed within the city’s museums.

The side of the Barnes Museum.

Looking at the front of the Barnes Museum from the side.

The Barnes Foundation
We weren’t allowed to take pictures inside the Barnes Foundation, which was established in 1922 to “promote the appreciation of the fine arts.” Founder Dr. Albert C. Barnes (1872-1951) grew up poor in working-class Philadelphia. He eventually earned his medical degree in at the University of Pennsylvania and made his money partnering to set up a pharmaceutical manufacturer. In 1908, he bought out his partner and launched the A.C. Barnes Company. His company produced Argyrol, an antiseptic silver compound that was used to treat gonorrhea and served as a preventative of gonorrheal blindness in newborns. Argyrol preceded the advent of antibiotics. The pharmaceutical company made him rich, and he sold his company months before the crash of 1929 to focus on his art collection and educational activities.

Reflecting before entering the Barnes Foundation.

David catches us reflecting before entering the Barnes Foundation.

He began seriously buying art in 1912, relying on former schoolmate, painter William J. Glackens, to advise him and purchase artwork in Paris on his behalf. Barnes educated his factory workers, setting up reading and discussion programs on topics that included aesthetics and art criticism. With encouragement from his friend John Dewey at Columbia University, he established his foundation. He collected one of the world’s most important holdings of post-impressionist and early modern paintings, including works by Cezanne, Matisse, Picasso, and Renoir, and snagged major works by van Gogh, Rousseau, and Modigliani. He also purchased African sculpture, Pennsylvania German furniture, Native American ceramics, jewelry, and textiles, American paintings, Mediterranean and Asian antiquities, and wrought iron objects from Europe and the United States. He presented his collection as ensembles, carefully and purposefully arranged across several galleries.

Trees scattered around the Barnes Foundation.

Rows of trees bordering the Barnes Foundation.

The original site of the Barnes Foundation was at the Merion campus, where in 1922 Barnes commissioned Paul Philippe Cret to design the gallery, administration building, and residence amid a 12-acre arboretum. The current museum is at 2025 Benjamin Franklin Parkway (215.278.7100). Barnes’s collection was incredible, and I’m thankful that my local Philly friends recommended that I put it on our itinerary. The building itself is beautiful and it’s on the way to the Rodin Museum and the Philadelphia Museum of Art. My sister Heidi recommended the documentary, The Art of the Steal (2009), which chronicles the battle for the control of Barnes’s $25 billion collection. After his death, despite his will stipulating that his art not be divided and sold off, the Philadelphia Museum of Art took control of part of his collection.

The entrance to the Rodin Museum.

The entrance to the Rodin Museum.

The Thinker at the museum's front gate.

The Thinker at the museum’s front gate.

Another outdoor sculpture gracing the garden.

Another outdoor sculpture gracing the garden.

The Gates of Hell sculpture at the entrance of the museum. Many of Rodin's standalone sculptures are modeled after the figures in these gates.

The Gates of Hell sculpture at the entrance of the museum. Many of Rodin’s standalone sculptures are modeled after the figures in these gates.

The Rodin Museum
Hailed as “the greatest collection of sculpture by August Rodin (1840-1917) outside of Paris,” the Rodin Museum (2154 Benjamin Franklin Parkway, Philadelphia, PA 19130, 215.763.8100), designed by French architect Paul Cret (1876-1945), opened in 1929. The “intimately scaled” museum, which has been newly restored, boasts Beaux-Arts architecture and is surrounded by French landscape designer Jacques Greber’s (1882-1962) formal French garden. Philadelphia native Jules E. Mastbaum, who was an entrepreneur and philanthropist, gifted his Rodin collection and founded the museum. The City responded, with more than 390,000 visitors its first year, enjoying Rodin’s sculptures both inside the museum and in the gardens. This is a beautiful museum all the way around – manageable and not overwhelming, with Rodin’s work nicely displayed.

The main gallery shows off the museum's Beaux-Arts architecture.

The main gallery shows off the museum’s Beaux-Arts architecture.

Assemblage of Heads of "The Burghers of Calais," plaster 1926.

Assemblage of Heads of “The Burghers of Calais,” in plaster, 1926.

Andromeda, marble 1886.

Andromeda, in marble, 1886.

Philadelphia Museum of Art
The Philadelphia Museum of Art is among the largest museums in the country, with more than 2,000 years of more than 227,000 paintings, sculptures, works on paper, photography, decorative arts, textiles, and architectural settings from Asia, Europe, Latin America, and the U.S. Rocky Balboa, from the movie Rocky made the steps leading up to the museum famous with his spirited sprint to the top and fist-waving before the view of the City. The museum is massive and we tried to see as many galleries as we could.

Outside the Greek Revival-style Philadelphia Museum of Art.

Outside the Greek Revival-style Philadelphia Museum of Art.

Detail from the Washington Monument at Eakins Oval, in front of the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

Detail from the Washington Monument at Eakins Oval, in front of the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

A special exhibit on Frank Gehry's vision  for the museum.

The kids check out the special exhibit on Frank Gehry’s vision for the museum.

Today, actually, is the last day of special exhibit “Making a Classic Modern: Frank Gehry’s Master Plan for the Philadelphia Museum of Art,” which highlights internationally celebrated architect Frank Gehry’s vision for the renewal and expansion of the museum. Gehry is known for his “expressive sculptural forms of buildings,” including the Guggenheim Museum in Balboa, Spain. The exhibit includes a video of Gehry talking about his vision and large-scale models showing cross sections of the reimagined museum, which he and his team have been working on since 2006. The museum is currently raising funds to build it, which could take years.

Prestidigitator (Conjuring Trick), 1927, oil and watercolor on fabric, Paul Klee (Swiss, 1879-1940).

Prestidigitator (Conjuring Trick), 1927, oil and watercolor on fabric, Paul Klee (Swiss, 1879-1940).

The Kiss (1916, limestone) by Constantin Brancusi (French, born Romania, 1876-1957).

The Kiss, 1916, limestone, by Constantin Brancusi (French, born in Romania, 1876-1957).

Portrait (Dulcinea), 1911, oil on canvas, Marcel Duchamp (American, born France, 1887-1968).

Portrait (Dulcinea), 1911, oil on canvas, Marcel Duchamp (American, born in France, 1887-1968).

The view from the top of the stairs of the museum, looking at City Hall from one end of Benjamin Franklin Parkway to the other.

The view from the top of the stairs of the museum, looking at City Hall from one end of Benjamin Franklin Parkway to the other.

Philly architecture

Among the most noted public institutions… is [the] Public Buildings [City Hall], we have told but little of the gigantic marble pile itself bearing this designation. It is, in truth, Philadelphia’s modern architectural moment – the largest edifice for municipal purposes in the world. Its tower, when completed, will rank as the third highest edifice in the world, the Washington Monument and the Eiffel Tower at Paris being the other and taller structures. Certainly no city in the United States has anything to show in comparison with it.
– regarding the first stone of the foundation of City Hall, laid on August 12, 1872, from Illustrated Philadelphia, Its Wealth and Industries, 2nd ed. (1889), pp. 96-97

Cloud, sky, and National Mechanics building on S. Third Street, Old City District.

Cloud, sky, and National Mechanics building on S. Third Street, Old City District.

The first settlers arrived in the Philadelphia area in the 17th century and lived in log dwellings. By the 18th century, bricks replaced logs as building materials. Georgian architecture – boxy, 1-2 stories, symmetrical, paneled front door in the center of the building, multi-paned rectangular windows, and decorative moldings – became the norm. But it shared the cityscape with Federal style, which is characterized by plain, smooth, and flat surfaces and rarely used pilasters.

The front of the National Mechanics Building.

The front of the National Mechanics Building.

Thomas Jefferson introduced Greek Revival to the U.S., and its influence was seen in buildings built in the beginning of the 19th century. As its name implies, Greek Revival imitated Greek designs and ornamented details. Majestic facades, porticoes, and heavy pilasters graced buildings of this time period. In the latter half of the 19th century, Victorian architecture prevailed.

Column detail.

Column detail.

David and I enjoy taking note of the different types of architecture that we see when we visit other cities and other parts of the country. We both like to photograph them as we wander around the city. I found the city’s architecture charming and I loved turning a corner in the Old City District and seeing a historic building or a row of older homes. Here’s a little sample of favorite architectural photos.

Another detail over a door of the National Mechanics Building.

Another detail over a door of the National Mechanics Building.

Iron decoration on a fire escape.

Iron decoration on a fire escape.

Statue detail from Swann Memorial Fountain in Logan Circle.

Statue detail from Swann Memorial Fountain in Logan Circle.

City Hall with bronze statue of William Penn on top.

City Hall with bronze statue of William Penn on top.

Detail from a column inside City Hall.

Detail from a column inside City Hall.

Detail from the Corn Exchange Bank.

Detail from the Corn Exchange Bank.

Door detail on the Corn Exchange Bank.

Door detail on the Corn Exchange Bank.

Commercial building on Market Street with signage from the past.

Lit Brothers department store building on Market Street with signage from the past.

Window detail.

Window detail of Lit Brothers department store.

Façade of Lit Brothers department store.

Façade of Lit Brothers department store.

Philadelphia boasts many statues and sculptures. This sculpture was made famous in the 1970s.

Philadelphia boasts many statues and sculptures. This sculpture was made famous in the 1970s.

Appropriately, a flag shop is across from Betsy Ross's house.

Appropriately, a flag shop is across from Betsy Ross’s house.

A row of Colonial homes.

A row of Colonial homes.

One of many murals off Market Street.

One of many murals off Market Street, with lawn games for businesspeople and others to play after work.

Old Christ Church at night.

Old Christ Church at night.

Market Street night life in Old City District, mixing historic with modern.

Market Street night life in Old City District, mixing historic with modern.