Category Archives: History

Honoring and understanding your history

Philadelphia’s ‘historic square mile’

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Either write something worth reading or do something worth writing.
– Benjamin Franklin, writer, philosopher, scientist, politician, patriot, Founding Father, inventor, and publisher

Majestic Independence Hall.

Majestic Independence Hall.

One of the main reasons I wanted our family to visit Philadelphia was to touch and feel our country’s history. We spent every day of the Philly portion of our trip in what is called Philadelphia’s most “historic square mile.” The first recommended stop is the Independence Visitor Center (1 North Independence Mall W, Philadelphia, PA 19106, 800.537.7676), which opened in 2001. This destination is where you purchase tickets to museums, carriage rides, walking tours, and events. Two theaters and exhibits provide more historical context, and the information center, gift shop, bathrooms, cell-phone charging stations, and cafe fulfill the rest of your needs.

Independence Hall and Liberty Bell
Both exhibits are free, but you have to get tickets to get in. Independence Hall (520 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106, 215.965.2305), which is across the street from the visitor center, is called the centerpiece of the Independence National Historical Park and the birthplace of the United States. Here is where the Declaration of Independence was adopted and the Constitution was debated – over which George Washington oversaw – drafted, and signed. A nice stretch of lawn runs the length of the hall to the National Constitution Center, providing a place for people to hang out and protest and to take photos. Construction of the Georgian-style Pennsylvania State House began in 1732, but the building wasn’t completed until 1753. We walked through the hall, learning about the different branches of government (congress was upstairs and the senate was downstairs).

The room where the Declaration of Independence was signed.

The room where the Declaration of Independence was signed.

The original House of Representatives room.

The original House of Representatives room.

Liberty Bell, not too crowded but with feet!

Liberty Bell, not too crowded but with feet!

As impressive as Independence Hall was, I thought the Liberty Bell was more meaningful for me, likely because it was right there before my eyes (though we couldn’t touch it, of course) and its symbol of freedom rang across time. I thought I knew the history of the Liberty Bell, but I really didn’t. Our Benjamin Franklin walking tour guide told us that he was giving a tour and happened to be near some German tourists who had exited from a short film about the Liberty Bell. He said he was surprised to see one of the men crying and he later came to the realization that he associated the country’s two dark moments in history – slavery and the Holocaust – and the Liberty Bell, with its crack, was a reminder that we came face to face with that ugly truth and keep the symbol front and center so as never to forget. Indeed, it is called an “international symbol of freedom.” The bell was hung in the State House in 1753 and served as summons for the Pennsylvania Assembly to work. It cracked in 1846. It was in the 1830s, however, that anti-slavery groups named it the Liberty Bell. The exhibit that leads you to the bell chronicles the different stories and times where liberty was fought for, including the issues of slavery, voting, even Apartheid.

Site of the first White House.

Site of the first White House.

Foundation of the first White House.

Foundation of the first White House.

President’s House Site
The most interesting thing I learned from the Benjamin Franklin walking tour called “Franklin’s Footsteps” (215.389.8687) was the story of the building of the visitor center. About eight years ago, the site of the first President’s House was discovered when the grounds were being torn up. Further excavation revealed the foundation of the home. But the most astounding discovery was documents and artifacts that exposed the enslavement of at least nine Africans during President Washington’s stay there. At the time, Pennsylvania was a free state and it was decreed that any slave brought into the state had to be freed after the sixth month. Washington skirted the law by sending the slaves back to Mount Vernon and exchanging them for new slaves. An outdoor exhibit features a glassed area exposing the foundation, flat-screen monitors of dramatizations of slaves living at the White House, and detailed timelines and storyboards.

Carpenters' Hall hosted the First Continental Congress in 1774 and home to Franklin's Library Company.

Carpenters’ Hall hosted the First Continental Congress in 1774 and home to Franklin’s Library Company.

The National Constitution Center
The National Constitution Center (Independence Mall, 525 Arch Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106, 215.409.6600), otherwise known as The Museum of We the People. It is the first and only institution in the country established by Congress (and signed by President Reagan) to “disseminate information about the United States Constitution on a non-partisan basis in order to increase the awareness and understanding of the Constitution among the American people.” The “Freedom Rising” theatrical presentation introduces the birth of the Constitution and precedes the interactive and largest part of the center.

The National Constitution Center with the Mendoza Molar, our dentist and friend's Flat Stanley contest to take a summer vacation photo with the molar.

The National Constitution Center with the Mendoza Molar, our dentist and friend’s Flat Stanley contest to take a summer vacation photo with the molar.

The exhibit, The Story of We the People, is utterly fascinating, if overwhelming. This exhibit surrounds the centralized theater 360 degrees. A future exhibit on President Obama was currently under construction. The interactive stations provided background on issues that led to the Constitutional articles and amendments being drafted. This can easily take up an entire afternoon, if not day. It’s a lot of information to digest, but if you do deep dives on a handful of issues, you begin to appreciate the power of not only the Constitution but the notion of self-government. Again, I must say that I figured this was another museum where we would power through, but I found myself drawn to various stations, learning things about this precious document. I also couldn’t get the tune from Schoolhouse Rock about the Constitution….

“Slavery at Jefferson’s Monticello” is a sobering exhibit (through October 19th) focusing on, as the guide who greeted us said, a part of history that isn’t typically highlighted in a museum. But, he went on, it is an important part of our history that we all need to know – the disturbing paradox of Thomas Jefferson, who espoused liberty but remained a slave owner his entire adult life. This exhibit is a narrative of six slave families who lived at Jefferson’s plantation. Sally Hemings is the most well-known, but we also learned about the Fossett, Granger, Gillette, Hern, and Hubbard families and the stories of how their descendants fought to bring those stories to bear. Nearly 300 artifacts bring to life the world of these six families and their trades.

Carriage ride of the historic square mile over cloudy skies.

Carriage ride of the historic square mile over cloudy skies.

‘Franklin’s Footsteps’ walking and horse-drawn carriage tours
As I mentioned earlier, we took one of the several walking tours available. Our guide, Clark, was quite the character, and that’s not because he dressed the part. We were reminded of Benjamin Franklin’s greatness pretty much everywhere we turned. We toured the first post office, which he established. And a park dedicated in his name with a bust made of keys that were donated by the children of Philadelphia.

Benjamin Franklin bust made of house keys donated by children at a small open-space park, one of many in the city.

Benjamin Franklin bust made of house keys donated by children at a small open-space park, one of many in the city.

Christ Church against blue skies and billowy clouds.

Christ Church against blue skies and billowy clouds.

Christ Church Burial Ground where Franklin is interred.

Christ Church Burial Ground where Franklin is interred.

Christ Church and Burial Ground (5th and 6th Arch Streets) is a recommended destination point because it is the final resting place for Benjamin Franklin, five signers of the Declaration of Independence, 10 Philadelphia mayors, early medical pioneers, Revolutionary and Civil War heroes, victims of Yellow Fever, and Christ Church members into modern times. The cemetery was established in 1719 and more than 4,000 people are buried in its two acres. Only 1,300 markers remain, with some marble markers with illegible wording accompanied by plaques with original inscriptions. In 1864, Edward L. Clark, the warden of Christ Church, was thinking of posterity when he compiled a book of the inscriptions. From afar, the thin tablets look like ancient teeth. Because of the rain that fell that one day during our vacation, we had the burial ground almost to ourselves. By the way, grave rubbings are not allowed.

Trees tower above the soft marble tombstones.

Trees tower above the soft marble tombstones.

Quiet stroll in the rain.

Quiet stroll in the rain.

On our carriage ride, we were treated views to Washington’s Square, a six-acre open-space park. Before the Revolution, the park served as a burial ground for the African-American community and after the Revolution, it was the final resting place for victims of Yellow Fever epidemics. A monument to Revolutionary soldiers and sailors was dedicated in the mid-1950s. The Tomb of the Unknown Revolutionary War Soldier features a bronze statue of Washington and an eternal flame. It is not known whether the soldier was British or Colonial. It’s reported that an unknown number of bodies still remain buried not only in the square but in the area, which makes for interesting findings during construction and maintenance projects!

Washington Square's monument to the unknown Revolutionary soldier.

Washington Square’s monument to the unknown Revolutionary soldier.

The house where Jefferson penned the Declaration of Independence.

The house where Jefferson penned the Declaration of Independence.

Our carriage took us by the house in which Thomas Jefferson penned the Declaration of Independence, which is a very narrow but tall brick structure. Our carriage guide informed us that fees were assessed by how wide your property was – but not how tall. Also, many of the charming colonial homes’ three stories represented the Holy Trinity. Many brick homes boasted window boxes overflowing with flowers and plants, brightly painted doors, basement doors in the front, and metal signs indicating that they were insured for fire damage. William Penn and his surveyor Thomas Holme designed the grid system and strategically placed public squares with wide streets. Penn had witnessed the damages to the London fires and wanted to ensure that Philadelphia, which means in Greek “brotherly love,” did not share a similar fate in case of fire.

Alas, we bypassed going into Betsy Ross’s house. Our guide told us that her son began telling stories about his mother, leading all to hear that she designed the country’s first flag. On the contrary, our guide noted, Betsy Ross sewed the first flag but did not design it. Somehow that was the deciding factor in just taking a photo of her house from the inside, especially when we had to decide what sites we could reasonably see in our time here.

Betsy Ross's house.

Betsy Ross’s house.

Our zany guide, Clark.

Our zany guide, Clark.

We learned so much I’m sure I’ve not retained as much as I can remember. I leave you with this one funny story that our guide, John, told us. Atop City Hall is an enormous statue of William Penn, whom King George granted 45,000 acres in the New World for 16,000 pounds to retire a debt to his father. Penn didn’t want to name the colony after his father, but King George demanded him of it. At 548 feet, City Hall and statue combined was the tallest habitable building in the world from 1901 to 1908. Penn’s statue alone is 37 feet. A gentlemen’s agreement forbidding the Philadelphia Art Commission from approving any skyscraper to exceed the height of City Hall was defied when One Liberty Place went up in 1987. Up until that time, the City had enjoyed numerous championships by the Phillies, Flyers, and Eagles. However, after the agreement was broken – called the Curse of Billy Penn – all three teams experienced years of failure. In June 2007, a small statue of Penn, along with a miniature American flag and evergreen tree, were placed atop the newly built Comcast building, which then became the tallest building in the City. And in October 2008, the Philadelphia Phillies won the World Series – many players of whom we saw play just a few evenings before.

The 700-room City Hall with William Penn watching over the city.

The 700-room City Hall with William Penn watching over the city.

 

Take me out to a ballgame – or two: Phillies and Orioles

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I see great things in baseball.
– Walt Whitman, American poet, essayist, journalist, and humanist

Approaching Oriole Park in downtown Baltimore.

Approaching Oriole Park in downtown Baltimore. You can see various homages to great players from their storied past.

When we were planning our summer vacation, it was a foregone conclusion that Citizens Bank Park for a Phillies game would be a prime destination. As I looked at the map of Pennsylvania, I wistfully eyed Pittsburgh and dared to envision seeing a game at PNC Park, with its beautiful bridge and skyline view beyond the outfield, but we couldn’t justify adding three-plus hours of driving to get there – specifically for a baseball game. We could have thrown in a Washington Nationals game at Nationals Park, which by a Californian’s driving standards wasn’t far away. Going all out, we could also have caught both New York teams, also an hour or so away but in the opposite direction. While three out of four of us would have been in baseball heaven, we begrudgingly acknowledged Isabella’s dislike for the sport and understood that she couldn’t pack an entire library to read during the games, so we settled for two, back-to-back night games, in Baltimore and Philadelphia.

Beautiful park with a skyline view.

Beautiful park with a skyline view.

Oriole Park at Camden Yards
For knowledgeable baseball fans out there, you know that being at an Orioles game for an Oakland A’s fan is akin to entering enemy territory, that is, Oriole Park at Camden Yards, or simply Camden Yards. But I had to see the first retro-style baseball stadium (333 W Camden Street, Baltimore, MD 21201, 410.685.9800), opened in 1992, that had become the rage of all new ballparks – state of the art and yet old-fashioned and quaint in feel and design, tucked within a historical neighborhood.

Once inside, the actual ballpark is gated. But until the gates are opened, you can enjoy the shops, restaurants, food carts. The brick façade gives the illusion of strolling downtown from an earlier era.

Our seats and view.

Our seats and view.

Okay, I was envious. The park, which seats 45,971, is beautiful. The images on the HD jumbo screen were sharp and huge. We were high up behind home plate, not quite nose-bleed seats. When we got to our section, our usher led us down the row and sprayed and wiped down our seats. Such customer service! We splurged on the soft-shelled crab sandwich, crab roll, and waffle fries, which was only fitting in Baltimore. The game itself was not that exciting, unless you’re an Orioles fan. Baltimore hit six home runs, winning 12-2 against the lifeless St. Louis Cardinals. The O’s Chris Tillman pretty much dominated over Justin Masterson. I much more prefer a balanced game, a pitchers’ duel, spectacular defense, a win for the home team and a loss for the rivals.

When in Baltimore, you must order the crab.

When in Baltimore, you must order the crab.

I had to get used to different forms of entertainment. Instead of the dot race I’m accustomed to at O.co, the Orioles have a hot dog race. When we were at Fenway in 2010, I was pleasantly surprised to discover the 8th inning tradition of singing Sweet Caroline as Neil Diamond’s voice blasted out of the speakers. At Camden Yards? It was John Denver’s Thank God I’m a Country Boy. Seriously. I thought for a second I was in a Midwest ballpark. But the two older men next to us explained that the Orioles have been playing that song since the early 1970s and it stuck, and during the 1979 World Series, John Denver made a surprise appearance. The crowd was really into it, and hey, so was I.

60th Celebration - the Orioles don't mess around with throwing parties.

60th Celebration – the Orioles don’t mess around with throwing parties.

Fireworks, fireworks, and more fireworks - oh, and lots of laser lights in the field, too.

Fireworks, fireworks, and more fireworks – oh, and lots of laser lights in the field, too.

How fortunate were we to take in a game in which the Orioles were celebrating their 60 years of existence? After the game, we were treated to a star-studded program, which included a very loud fireworks and laser light show. I was in awe of the big names who were being honored, including Cal Ripken, Jr., Eddie Murray, Jim Palmer, Brooks Robinson, Frank Robinson, Boog Powell, Ken Singleton, Brady Anderson, Rick Dempsey, and (former Oakland A) Mike Bordick. Many were from my youth when I watched baseball games on TV with my dad and oftentimes with the whole family. I’m glad we got to experience Camden Yards and see the Orioles in their house. Who knows if they’ll be in the play-offs and we may see them again….

Citizens Bank Park as you come out of SEPTA train station.

Citizens Bank Park as you come out of SEPTA train station.

Citizens Bank Park, Philadelphia
The Phillies’ ballpark is not downtown, but in the naval shipyard area, or the South Philadelphia Sports Complex, which also boasts the stadiums for the professional football and basketball teams (note that I don’t know the names of either team). Citizens Bank Park (1 Citizens Bank Way, Philadelphia, PA 19148, 215.436.1000), which seats 43,647, opened in April 2004, just four years before the Phillies won their last World Series. The stadium was well designed, sporting a wide concourse between the seats and the concession stands, enabling easy foot traffic and avoiding the bottlenecks that we typically experience at the Oakland Coliseum.

Just another family portrait with a baseball diamond behind us, much to Isabella's chagrin.

Just another family portrait with a baseball diamond behind us, much to Isabella’s chagrin.

We sat between first base and right field, but the way the ballpark was designed, we had a great view, and I felt like I was much closer than I actually was. The plays to right field were right in front of me. We were expecting sticky August temps – hence getting tickets for night games as opposed to day games – but we lucked out with mild temperatures, which made for very pleasant baseball watching weather.

Our view to the left.

Our view to the left.

At the time, the Phillies were battling the New York Mets for the cellar. It was a classic pitching duel with outstanding defensive catches and driving stops that robbed hitters of hits. The Phillies’ Cole Hamels pitched as expected, while the Mets’ Dillon Gee played unexpectedly well. What a treat we had. The game ended up going into extra innings, but the Mets broke up the 1-1 tie in the top of the 11th and held on for the win. While the fans filled the stadium, we realized they had come for a pre-game celebration. Once the game was tied, however, they left in droves. Good thing the stadium was built for easy in and out! Our Benjamin Franklin walking tour guide later told us that Phillies fans are famous for scorning other fans for leaving games early. They were spoiled with a WS championship in 2008, signed the team to big, long-term contracts, and now sport a bunch of aging players who have lost their luster. In other words, they have a right to exit early.

Our view to left center.

Our view to our center.

I again had big-screen envy with their HD Phanavision. While they didn’t have a tradition of playing an 8th-inning famous song like Fenway Park and Oriole Park, Citizens Bank Park had the standard between-innings games such as the “find the ball under the ice cream cup” game. I enjoyed the kissing cam and especially the karaoke cam, which featured lyrics in case you didn’t know the words. I guess that’s the Filipino in me. I’d love for O.co to adopt the karaoke cam.

Our view to the right.

Our view to the right.

We were lucky to witness another MLB team celebration, the second night in a row. The Phillies were inducting into their own Hall of Fame former manager Charlie Manuel. Some of the former stars who were on hand for the long program were John Kruk, Darren Dalton, Steve Carlton, and Mike Schmidt – all players that I used to watch in my youth, so that was fun to see. Who would imagine that I’d see so many great players from the past in two back-to-back games! That was a treat!

Former Phillies manager Charlie Manuel is right in your face with this crystal-clear HD jumbo screen.

Former Phillies manager Charlie Manuel is up-close and personal on this crystal-clear HD jumbo screen.

A whole lot of star power at the Phillies Hall of Fame induction ceremony.

A whole lot of star power at the Phillies Hall of Fame induction ceremony.

Lancaster, PA: return to Amish country

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Doing what’s right today means no regrets tomorrow.
– Amish proverb

A horse-and-buggy cruising down a busy road.

A horse-and-buggy cruising down a busy road.

When I was a grad student at Syracuse, my friend Laurel Kallenbach and I ventured to Amish country in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, for the Labor Day weekend in 1989. I was taken by the simple lifestyle and the beautiful carpentry, quilts, and other handiwork, and when I made my way back to California, I hoped to one day return. I was excited to have that opportunity come up not only for me but for my two children. I wanted them to see another part of our country and appreciate a different culture and religious denomination.

When not walking or riding in a horse and buggy, the Amish use these really cool scooters. This shop had them in rainbow colors.

When not walking or riding in a horse and buggy, the Amish use these really cool scooters. This shop had them in rainbow colors.

My one mistake in planning our trip was to book two nights at a Days Inn in Lancaster –  a serviceable, inexpensive hotel chain. It never occurred to me to look up B&Bs, which dotted the region with inviting red-brick homes and charming front-yard gardens. Furthermore, it never occurred to me to seek out an Amish B&B. We ended up doing the Amish buggy farm tour the morning that we were leaving for Baltimore, which was when we met Ben, our driver, who runs a B&B with his wife. He invited us to have a simple Amish dinner that night. Drat! If only Ben were at Aaron and Jessica’s Buggy Rides (3121 Old Philadelphia Pike, Ronks, PA 17572, 717.768.8828) when we swung by the evening before but missed the last round of wagons and buggies hitting the road.

Isabella gets to know one of the horses before our buggy ride.

Isabella gets to know one of the horses before our buggy ride.

Ben was a wonderful guide and he tortured us with what could have been. Had we stayed at their B&B, Isabella could have ridden his horse, collected eggs from the hen-house, helped milk the cows, and play with the goats. This experience alone would have made me, the mom, ecstatic for my daughter. Alas, we talked about sending Isabella next summer for a week – well, it sounded promising at the time. If you are interested, you can call the Amish Homestead (231 Turtle Hill Road, Ephrata, PA 17522, 717.859.2403, Ext. 0), run by Ben and Emma.

Ben, our wonderful guide.

Ben, our wonderful guide.

We chose the private, hour-long farm tour as opposed to the wagon ride, which would have crammed us in with other groups of people. Ben was born and lived his entire life in the Lancaster area and happy to answer questions. I’m sure for some Amish people tourists are nuisances, but Ben was really happy to share his world and let us catch a glimpse of the Amish lifestyle and the Pennsylvania Dutch country.

Getting a glimpse
To date, some 50,000 Amish live in the Lancaster area, while there are approximately 250,000 living in the U.S. Lancaster boasts the largest concentration of Amish, which is a Protestant denomination – closely related to the Mennonites. They are descendants of immigrants who left Switzerland in the 18th century, following a schism within the Anabaptists. The Amish follow the teachings of Jacob Ammann, a 17th century Swiss citizen. One of the main distinctions of the Amish is that they do not use modern technology. If you see a house with simple clothes strung on a line and no car in sight, it is no doubt an Amish house. While Ben said they can use solar power, they don’t use electricity and don’t have phones. The men usually have beards and males often wear hats. The women wear a white cap and simple dresses that are fastened with straight pins instead of buttons. I’ve read that they do not take oaths, vote, or serve in the military.

Our horse at rest while we tour an Amish farm.

Our horse at rest while we tour an Amish farm.

We learned more on our tour, which included stopping at an Amish farm and being treated to homemade cookies and homemade lemonade and root beer. Amish homes are built to scale to accommodate large families, weddings, funerals, and Sunday services, which are rotated among the community. The youngest son inherits the farm and the grown children take care of their elderly parents, who live in an addition to the original house.

Pregnant cows are kept separate from the rest o the herd.

Pregnant cows are kept separate from the rest o the herd.

Amish schools consist of one room and one teacher for all students up until the eighth grade, which is when schooling ends. Afterwards, if they don’t become farmers, which Ben told us is a difficult calling because of stiff competition from agribusiness, they take up an apprenticeship and hone a trade, including landscape designers and carpenters.

Examining the bones of this old 19th century barn on the property.

Examining the bones of this old 19th century barn on the property, which are held together by wooden pins instead of nails.

Our hour passed by all too quickly. We were Baltimore-bound, but we managed to squeeze time driving from Lancaster to Bird-in-Hand to Intercourse and stopping at will if we saw some shops to browse. We unwittingly stumbled into Kitchen Kettle Village (W. Newport Road, Intercourse, PA 17529, 800.732.3538), an open-air mall of Pennsylvania Dutch Country specialty shops featuring homemade foods, activities, and tours. It was a bit touristy, but we found fantastic furniture shops, including one I remembered from my time in Syracuse. Old Road Furniture Company‘s shop (3457 Old Philadelphia Pike, Intercourse, PA 17534, 717.768.0478) featured exquisite custom-designed dining room tables, chairs, cupboards, beds, and more. Our favorites were the tables of maple, walnut, and cherry slabs atop vintage, industrial bases. One of these days.

As usual, we could have stayed another day, but after noshing on pretzels, we hopped back into our rental car, bid adieu to our Amish experience and headed on to the next leg of our trip – Baltimore. I leave you with another Amish proverb, which sounds like it belongs in a cult movie rather than a book of Amish proverbs – “Remember that wherever you go, there you are.”

The Amish are known for their furniture-making. Saying good-bye to this awesome shop at Kettle Kitchen Village.

The Amish are known for their furniture-making. Saying good-bye to this awesome shop at Kitchen Kettle Village.

 

Gettysburg National Military Park: stepping back to ‘three days in July’

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The world will little note nor long remember what we say here, but it can never forget what they did here.
– Abraham Lincoln, 16th President, from The Gettysburg Address

In early August, our family went to Philadelphia for our summer vacation. Back in February when we discussed destinations, my son, Jacob, had returned from his eighth grade 76’er trip to Washington, D.C. As predicted, he had a wonderful time, enjoying the traveling with friends and the freedom that goes with it, and learning and appreciating U.S. history. I presented two choices. The first choice was Moab, Utah, and the state and national parks in the region (Arches, Canyonlands, and Bryce National Parks and Dead Horse Point State Park) – gorgeous places I visited briefly when returning to California after getting my MA from Syracuse University way back when. The other choice I offered to Jacob and Isabella was Philadelphia for a further deep dive into U.S. history. (My goal is to give them a taste of major cities and national parks in the U.S. before they leave the nest.)

My first trip to Philadelphia was in June 2011 when women’s clothing retailer Anthropologie sent me and other members of a year-long consumer focus group to its headquarters. I spent three fun days with wonderful like-minded women and great hosts, but while a smaller group of us had a whole day to tool around Old City, I didn’t get to any museums or historical sites. I had an incentive to return. While there in 2011, we were referred to a great area of Old City with fabulous vintage and unique shops, so count that as the second incentive. Lucky for me, both kids voted for Philly. Our itinerary comprised a visit to Gettysburg and Amish Country (Lancaster, Bird-in-Hand, and Intercourse), Baltimore’s Inner Harbor and a game at Oriole Park at Camden Yards, and then on to Philadelphia and its historical sites and a Phillies game at Citizens Bank Park. Characteristic of our family vacations, we packed in a lot in nine days.

Greeted by a statue of Lincoln at the entrance of the Gettysburg National Military Park Museum and Visitor Center.

Greeted by a statue of Lincoln at the entrance of the Gettysburg National Military Park Museum and Visitor Center.

‘Three days in July’
David went to Gettysburg in 1989 while on a 2-month work project outside of Philadelphia. Upon his return this summer, he noted that the national military park was nothing like it is today. For starters, the Gettysburg Museum and Visitor Center (1195 Baltimore Pike, Route 97, Baltimore, MD 17325, 717.338.1243) was erected just seven years ago. It’s a beautiful 22,000-square-foot building that houses the museum, two theaters, a resource and education center, bookstore and refreshment saloon.

The 12-gallery museum houses numerous Civil War artifacts, interactive displays, and films that provide an enlightening glimpse into the three-day battle. We viewed the Cyclorama, a massive 377-foot-wide-by-42-foot-high oil painting by French artist Paul Philippoteaux, who spent months researching the battle to depict Pickett’s Charge, the Confederacy’s infantry assault against Major General George G. Meade’s Union positions on Cemetery Ridge on July 3, 1863, the third and final day of the battle. Philippoteaux and his team of assistants took a year to complete the painting in the late 1880s. Confederate General Robert E. Lee’s attack failed and it cost him more than 5,000 soldiers in one hour. Our guide pointed out that Philippoteaux had included Lincoln’s body being carried by two men – mirroring the president being removed from Ford’s Theater after his assassination.

The Cyclorama Painting is a 360-degree experience, with a diorama in the foreground, blending into the painting.

The Cyclorama Painting is a 360-degree experience, with a diorama in the foreground, blending into the painting.

A close-up in which Lincoln is symbolically inserted into the painting.

A close-up in which Lincoln is symbolically inserted into the painting.

We missed out on the battlefield tour with a licensed guide, instead opting for a two-hour bus tour. We made a handful of stops along the expansive battlefield, including the Eternal Light Peace Memorial, the North Carolina Memorial (states who sent their men to battle erected memorials where the men were stationed), and Little Round Top. States tried to outdo one another in the size of their memorials. Tennessee erected the last monument in 1982. The monument at the Eternal Light Peace Memorial features stone in the upper portion hailing from Maine and stone at the foundation from Alabama, symbolizing the reunification of the country. The dedication ceremony in 1937 was attended by Civil War vets who were in their 90s and 100s.

The battlefield is filled with monuments, cannons, and costumed guides.

The battlefield is filled with monuments, cannons, and costumed guides.

Interesting stories
We had an excellent bus guide who provided us with more information than we could absorb. Here are some things I remembered. Despite the 51,000 casualties piled up on both sides, Gettysburg lost only one civilian to the battle: a young woman who was struck by a stray bullet while making bread in her kitchen. Our guide told us that parents of a 13-year-old boy who was watching the battle from his upstairs bedroom window yelled at him to get away. As he was heading downstairs, a bullet shot through the window he had just left. An effective cautionary tale for parents to share with their kids at opportune moments! Lee’s retreat was 17 miles long, mostly comprising his wounded soldiers. We didn’t take the Eisenhower home tour, which was nearby. Eisenhower retired to a farm and later died there.

Little Round Top - where Brig. Gen. Gouverneur K. Warren alerted Union officers to the Confederate threat and brought Federal reinforcements to defend this position.

Little Round Top – where Brig. Gen. Gouverneur K. Warren alerted Union officers to the Confederate threat and brought Federal reinforcements to defend this critical position.

New York State monument at Little Round Top.

New York State monument at Little Round Top.

By unfortunate chance, Gettysburg was the meeting point between Lee, who was marching his Army of Northern Virginia westward from Fredericksburg, VA, and the Union Army of the Potomac under Major General Joseph Hooker, who was following Lee. Because Lee’s cavalry, under Major General J.E.B. Stuart, was detained with a raid around the Federal Forces, Lee did not know Hooker’s whereabouts. The main battle began on July 1st. Although outnumbered, the Federal forces held their position until they were driven back south of Gettysburg. Overnight, the main body of the Union army, commanded by Major General George G. Meade, arrived to bolster their comrades.

On July 3rd, Lee’s artillery opened a two-hour “thundering” bombardment of the Union army on Cemetery Ridge on Cemetery Hill. The Union army held their ground. Lee ordered some 12,000 Confederate soldiers to advance across the open fields in the ill-fated Picket’s Charge. The battle was over, with, as I mentioned before, Lee losing more than 5,000 of his men within an hour. Our guide painted a gruesome picture of having to dispose of the bodies, many of whom could not be identified (they didn’t have dog tags back in the day), in mass graves and unmarked graves. Pennsylvania Governor Andrew Curtin got land commissioned for a proper burial ground for the reinterred Union dead. Within four months of the battle, 17 acres became the Gettysburg National Cemetery.

The national cemetery.

The national cemetery.

Lincoln gave his famous speech when the cemetery was dedicated on November 19th, 1863. Edward Everett, the principal speaker, droned on for more than two hours. Lincoln’s 272-word speech took two minutes to deliver. Everett later told Lincoln: “I should be glad if I … came as near to the central idea of the occasion, in two hours, as you did in two minutes.” Eventually 3,500 Union soldiers came to rest in the cemetery.

Monument honoring the spot where Lincoln gave his famous speech.

Monument honoring the spot where Lincoln gave his famous speech.

I must admit that I looked upon this part of our trip as a parental obligation to contribute to our kids’ history lesson. I figured that we would stay a couple of hours and hastily tour the museum and battlefield. We were there for nearly seven hours and we could have stayed longer. I was impressed by the museum and the presentation of information. The monuments were as sobering as they were majestic. The stories were vivid and stirring, allowing us to transport ourselves to the past, as we stared across the vast expanse of land. It was one of the highlights of our family vacation for Jacob, and I admit it was for me, too.

The massive Pennsylvania monument can be seen for miles, towering the many monuments scattered throughout the park.

The massive Pennsylvania monument can be seen for miles, towering the many monuments scattered throughout the park.

Another look - one last look - at Gettysburg.

Another look – one last look – at Gettysburg.

A Tiny, mighty change: 8th grade graduations and promotions

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True life is lived when tiny changes occur.
– Leo Tolstoy, Russian novelist and short story writer

Pre-ceremony moment with Number 1 son.

Pre-ceremony moment with Number 1 son.

Prior to Jacob’s 8th grade promotion ceremony last night, all week I had been adrift in reminiscing. I remembered my own 8th grade graduation as I rejoiced and also felt bittersweet about his minor rite of passage, with the swift feet of time luring him away from me. I couldn’t find any photos of my graduation, but I distinctly remembered details so vivid it startled me. My Auntie Leonora, my mom’s sister-in-law, sewed my maxi dress of tiny blue flowers against a cream background, with the bodice trimmed with lace and petite luminous blue buttons. June 8, 1976. As we were getting ready for the event after dinner, my mother made her way to the bathroom with a fish bone stuck in her throat. I ran down the hallway, panicked that she was choking to death. She was fine after coughing up the bone, but I realized at that moment how much she meant to me – despite our cultural and generational differences at the time. My mother meted out tough love but only because she wanted me to work hard and succeed.Mr. Vangsness, our choral teacher, conducted us as we sang Morris Albert’s “Feelings,” a popular 1975 song, and a dog understandably howled in the background. Nobody snickered or laughed out loud, but I was embarrassed nonetheless. [Don’t ask why an elementary school choir would sing a song about a heartbroken man at an 8th grade graduation.]

Some of my mementos from elementary school - awards, a cassette from honor choir, hand-drawn "photos" and handmade letters for my cheerleading sweatshirt - I know, even my own son was surprised at this revelation.

Mementos from elementary school – awards, honor choir cassette(!), hand-drawn “photos” and handmade letters for my cheerleading sweatshirt – I know, even my own son was surprised at this revelation.

Spurred by my memories, I took to the attic and dug into the big plastic tub that holds my journals and mementos of my life up to college. I’ve sifted through this tub before to flip through my journals and other writings, but I haven’t gone through the letters, my certificates of perfect attendance and scholarship, report cards, school reports, my overwrought prose from my English assignments in years. I was astonished to find that I still have my 8th graduation program, which is in pristine condition.

Terra Bella, my hometown and home to my K-8 elementary school, wasn’t big enough to warrant having a high school. There were two high schools in the next town over, Porterville, and where you lived relative to the train tracks determined which school you attended. Mostly everyone attended Porterville High School because a greater percentage of the town’s population lived on one side of the tracks. I chose to follow my two sisters, who were going to the newer high school. But that meant I would be separated from all my friends. It meant I would be a lone wolf until I made new friends. Another girl from my school ended up going, but we weren’t close and didn’t hang out in elementary school. I sheepishly asked my middle sister, a junior, if I could hang out with her. She begrudgingly agreed, though I had to walk behind her and her group of friends, no doubt because she had been telling people since she got to high school that she was an only child.

Four bouquets from our garden for Portola's 8th grade promotion ceremony.

Four bouquets from our garden for Portola’s 8th grade promotion ceremony.

Styling the dress before the big haircut.

Styling the dress before the big haircut.

I was scared of high school, though I had outgrown being at the same rural school for nine years and being with the same kids for almost a decade. At the same time, I was curious and excited. I had the rare opportunity early in life to reinvent myself in a new environment. Nobody knew me. There’s a certain freedom in anonymity, in not being encumbered by complicated friendships and loyalties. I was ready to bust out of my little hometown. I was ready for a bigger school, a variety of classes – I had a thirst for pure knowledge and learning – new friends, and new experiences and adventures. The proverbial bigger pond.

This stunner of a dress only needs simple yet elegant accessories: equally stunning Personal Pizazz drop earrings (Berkeley, CA), Elizabeth Ng antique button ring (Abacus, Portland, ME), and vintage bracelet (eBay).

This stunner of a dress only needs simple yet elegant accessories: equally stunning Ben Amun drop earrings (Personal Pizazz, Berkeley, CA), Elizabeth Ng antique button ring (Abacus, Portland, ME), and vintage bracelet (eBay).

Graduating from my elementary school, really, was the beginning of the journey for me. With each step, graduating from Monache High School, Porterville Junior College, UC Davis, and Syracuse University, along with my two years as a Jesuit Volunteer in Alaska and San Francisco, the world continued to grow bigger and bigger. As I, as an 8th grader, walked across the concrete stage to accept my diploma in front of the grassy area filled with families of immigrant workers and farmers on a warm June evening, my excitement was palpable. Life was opening up.

And so it will for Jacob. Happy 8th grade promotion. Tolstoy nailed it: we experience tiny changes, necessary changes, on the way to a true life.

Close-up: beautiful details, including sequined clutch complementing the dress and jewelry.

Close-up: beautiful details, including sequined clutch complementing the dress and jewelry.

Celebrating Jacob's tiny, mighty change.

Celebrating Jacob’s tiny, mighty change. Now to go confidently into this world!

Teacher magic: reflections on engagement and inspiration

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There are two kinds of teachers: the kind that fills you up with so much quail shot that you can’t move, and the kind that just gives you a little prod behind and you jump to the skies.
– Robert Frost, American poet

My most recent photo of Jacob, at an Oakland A's game on Mother's Day, of course.

My most recent photo of Jacob, at an Oakland A’s game on Mother’s Day, of course.

My son, Jacob, is finishing up eighth grade and will be promoted this Thursday evening. As I ponder the past two years of his middle school life, I am – first of all – amazed at how quickly the time has whizzed by. I think of how much he has grown in his 13th year – physically mostly, but also emotionally. While I’d like to take credit for the good stuff as a parent, I realize that his phenomenal academic year has a lot to do with the growth I’ve had the pleasure and astonishment to witness. I should say more specifically, the two teachers who have made the biggest impact on his academics thus far.

I appointed myself to put together a drive for cards, letters, and donations for our history and English teachers because I wanted us as a parent community to thank them for inspiring our kids. Throughout the year, I have had conversations with numerous parents who have also witnessed the pleasure of their kids being engaged in American history and reading and writing in their English class.

As I wrote my separate letters to the teachers (Jacob wrote out his cards without the usual pushback when I ask that thank you cards be written), I thought about the two teachers who inspired me when I attended my K-8 school.

Sixth grade: unconditional love
Everybody loved Miss Rossow, my sixth grade teacher. Those who were “stuck” in the other class envied those of us who were lucky enough to have been assigned to her class. Miss Rossow was energetic and creative. She nurtured her students and was always positive, which gave us the freedom to do our best and to overextend ourselves. We clamored to please her with our work and our behavior. I remember her reading to us Roald Dahl’s Charlie and the Chocolate Factory in an animated voice and handing out Wonka chocolate bars when she finished the book. For me, she opened up the world of books and imagination.

My 6th grade class picture, with Miss Rossow in the bottom let. I'm in the top row, in the middle.

My 6th grade class picture, with Miss Rossow in the bottom let. I’m in the top row, in the middle.

We knew we had a good thing going, but many times it isn’t until something is taken away that you fully realize what you had. After Christmas break, Miss Rossow didn’t return. We cried. We were sorrowful. We didn’t know what had happened. She wrote the class a letter, letting us know that she had moved to Washington state and was going to get married. She said she would write to us, but she never responded to our stream of letters, which we eventually stopped writing when we realized she had a new life without us. We felt justified in refusing to cooperate with the long-term substitute teacher, and tried very hard to ignore the taunts from the kids in the other class. I remember the long-term sub calling me in during recess and letting me know that she understood that we were giving her a hard time because we were hurt by the sudden departure of our beloved teacher. She acknowledged that she could never rise to such vaunted heights. As one of the “good students,” I was asked to behave and set an example to the other students. I begrudgingly agreed. The rest of the year lost its magic, but I continued to nurture my love of books. [An aside, it wasn’t until years later that I put the pieces together. Miss Rossow had gotten pregnant, which led to a hasty wedding and move. This was, after all, 1973.] I don’t remember what her married name became or in what city in Washington state she settled, but I am forever indebted to her bringing magic into the classroom.

My 8th grade school picture, fall 1975.

My 8th grade school picture, fall 1975.

On becoming a writer
When I was in eighth grade, Miss Lerda was my home-room teacher, but we switched out for language arts and social studies, which was taught by Mrs. Bone. The latter, who wore pants and pantsuits, was unconventional to the point of being hip back in 1975-1976. She was tall and thin, with cropped bleached blonde hair and a pointed nose and a distinctive nasal voice – I can still hear it in my head. She crossed disciplines with her assignments long before it was de rigueur with academic standards. I kept many of her writing assignments. We read about such historical events as the French and Indian War, and then wrote fictional first-person accounts, with students choosing the character to represent. I chose a young American woman living in Schenectady who was about to be married and worried about her beloved soldier. Admittedly, it was very heavy handed and smarmy, but Mrs. Bone applauded me for my imagination and suggested that I become a Gothic romance writer.

The end of school means summer dressing and cool colors - like a silk shift.

The end of school means summer dressing and cool colors – like a silk shift.

We read a lot of Mark Twain, whom I grew to appreciate. We were always reading and writing, and I couldn’t get enough of either. I credit Mrs. Bone for leading me down the path of majoring in English and wanting to be a writer. Love what you do. She was certainly following her passion. My cousin Janet, who is also a teacher, knew Mrs. Bone as a colleague for many years. Mrs. Bone retired within this past decade, leaving behind a robust legacy of having inspired decades of her students.

I realized many years later, as I thought about what I wanted to write in Jacob’s two teachers’ thank-you cards, that I “only” had two teachers who stood out in my K-8 years who truly made a difference in my life – in the classroom and beyond. Perhaps it’s not uncommon to have just a few teachers who have been inspirational. Most of my K-8 teachers were serviceable; I paid attention and did the work, and I was rewarded for my diligence. From a child’s perspective, I couldn’t tell if I had a “bad” teacher – one who didn’t teach what he or she was supposed to teach in that year. How would a child know what was covered in the curriculum? I was unaffected by the few yellers I had as teachers – mostly because I was an obedient student and didn’t think any yelling was directed toward me.

Impacting the rest of your life
When you get those inspirational teachers, however, makes a big difference. Whereas Miss Rossow instilled in me a love of books and opening up my imagination, Mrs. Bone set me up, so to speak, for high school, where you hope you begin the process of critical reading, thinking, and writing. And this is where I believe Jacob got very lucky. His English and history teachers have helped build that foundation in preparation for high school.

Cool accessories for summer: Antique document holder turned necklace (Kate Peterson Designs, El Cerrito, CA), Neeru Goel chalecedony earrings (India), Sundance ring, and KPD sterling silver bangles (El Cerrito, CA).

Cool accessories for summer: Antique document holder turned necklace (Kate Peterson Designs, El Cerrito, CA), Neeru Goel chalecedony earrings, Sundance ring, and KPD sterling silver bangles (El Cerrito, CA).

Last year – I’m forgetting the circumstances for the confessional – Jacob reluctantly admitted to me that he didn’t like to read or write. You can imagine how his words were akin to arrows not only piercing my skin but lodging in major organs in my body. He had no good enough reason other than just not liking either. I wrung my hands. I was confident in his math and science abilities, though he can be lackadaisical in both subjects, but I worried that he wouldn’t have the reading and writing skills required in not only high school and college, but in life, really.

David and I attended Back-to-School Night last September and visited Mr. Aloi’s history classroom and Mr. McCormick’s English classroom. In their presentations, they both outlined what they would cover, what books they were assigning, and what competencies our kids would develop upon completion of the school year. Whereas Mr. Aloi, who is a veteran teacher, was “salty” in tongue and a little goofy, he presented history not as the memorization of people, dates, and events but as stories that uncover human desire and motivation. The kids would learn how to take notes and write coherent papers. If he was as entertaining in his teaching as he was giving his presentation, we knew he had the ability to engage the students. And he did.

Cool silver accessories against muted colors.

Cool silver accessories against muted colors.

Jacob animatedly told many Mr. Aloi stories over family dinners. As one parent told us at our last band concert of the school year, we ought to get the kids T-shirts that say, “Mr. Aloi says….” because they so enthusiastically relate his stories to us parents and families. He gained their trust and he earned his street cred. At Back-to-School Night, he also told us that his classroom was always open. He understood how difficult middle school years are, and he offered his room as a haven for shy kids, for kids who didn’t have any friends. And many kids did hang out in his classroom because they enjoyed being around him. For all that, I say, thank you, Mr. Aloi, for engaging my son and his classmates, and for his new-found appreciation for American history and for him wanting to put in the extra effort on his writing assignments because of that enthusiasm and engagement.

Mr. McCormick, whose half-way rolled-down shirt sleeves partially hid tattooed arms, introduced himself at Back-to-School Night as a former marketing writer for Clorox who went back to school to get his teaching credential. He enthusiastically told us about his love of teaching and astounded us with his desire to teach middle-school age kids. This is his third year of teaching and he was deservedly awarded Teacher of the Year for the district. Throughout the year, unprompted, Jacob would tell me about the books he enjoyed reading, in particular, Lois Lawry’s The Giver. I watched him put effort into his English assignments and he took pride in his grades. Not too far into the school year, he told me that history and English were his favorite subjects. I was shocked by this revelation, coming from a kid who hated reading and writing. Only a great teacher could coax such a statement from a reluctant student. Mr. McCormick seems to have the rare gift of understanding and being patient with middle-school kids, and to boot have the ability to engage them with the subject and his assignments. As a result, he commands their respect.

Inspiration and engagement equals happiness and meaningful fulfillment.

Inspiration and engagement equals happiness and meaningful fulfillment.

While Jacob is ready to move on to high school – albeit mixed with fear of being with older kids and a much bigger campus with more students – there’s a part of him that he admitted to me that will miss his middle school. He had a good year, he related to me wistfully. I know why, and for that, I am extremely grateful.

As parents we have such a big influence on our kids. Teachers and coaches, I read in an article, are the next tier of people who impact our kids. As we enter the last week of school for my son, as we prepare for his eighth grade promotion ceremony on Thursday, I step back to acknowledge my gratitude. I’m grateful for his two teachers for making such a big impression on him – both in the classroom and beyond – and me.