Chicago: Oak Park’s Frank Lloyd Wright and “Papa” Hemingway

I believe in God, only I spell it Nature.
– Frank Lloyd Wright, American architect and interior designer, Truth Against the World: Frank Lloyd Wright Speaks for an Organic Architecture

The front of Frank Lloyd Wright's first home and studio.

The front of Frank Lloyd Wright’s first home and studio.

When traveling with children, adults have to find the balance between visiting sites that children will enjoy and doing things they will enjoy. On our third day of our Chicago vacation from last week, it was our turn: We took the train to Oak Park, which is 10 miles west of the Chicago Loop, to tour Frank Lloyd Wright’s first home and studio and the other homes that he designed. While our kids weren’t thrilled to walk to 20 sites, they retained some of the information from the audio portion of the tour, which I consider a small victory.

Exterior detail of Wright's home.

Exterior detail of Wright’s home.

Oak Park became a destination for Chicagoans who fled for wide open spaces after the Great Chicago Fire of 1871, which killed hundreds and destroyed more than three miles of the city. So just in case the house next door went up in flames, one’s property line would be far enough away to be safe from catching fire. Our touring day could not have been any better – warm but pleasant, with low humidity and a slight breeze. Led by a guide, we saw his home and attached studio first, which had beautiful stained-glass and leaded-glass windows, built-ins, interesting ceiling lines, and sconces that showed off a house wired for electricity.

The beautiful children's room.

The beautiful children’s room.

Wright’s mother, to whom he was very close and who bought the house next door to his home, knew he was going to become a famous architect. His mother, who was a teacher, fostered this belief by hanging photos of buildings around his crib. The top floor of his home features a very large open room that was called the children’s room. He didn’t believe that children should be seen and not heard – the prevailing Victorian attitude. An interesting piece of information: His mother and wife developed the concept of kindergarten – no doubt in that great room – by letting their children play with building blocks, which was the foundation for the kindergarten curriculum. In addition, Wright’s son created Lincoln Logs.

The Frank Thomas House, 1901, 210 Forest Avenue.

The Frank Thomas House, 1901, 210 Forest Avenue, Oak Park.

Wright had to borrow money from his mentor and boss, Louis Sullivan, whom he called Lieber Meister for beloved master, in order to build the house for his wife and growing family. Sullivan helped shape Wright’s career and influenced what became known as the Prairie School of Architecture. They parted ways when Sullivan discovered that Wright had designed a number of homes on the side, which was a violation of his contract. The many homes we saw on the tour were in fact Wright’s early bootleg homes. They all represented the Prairie School of Architecture’s philosophy of being close to Nature. The style is characterized by earthy interior and exterior colors, horizontal lines, obscured front doors, rows of vertical windows, and integration with the landscape. The massive Unity Church was an artistic breakthrough for Wright, who realized while designing and building this church that “the reality of the building is the space within” – in other words, the walls and roof don’t define the building.

The Frederick C. Robie house in Chicago.

The Frederick C. Robie house in Chicago.

We also toured the Robie House (5757 South Woodlawn Avenue, Chicago, 312.994.4000), which is a U.S. National Historic Landmark located on the campus of the University of Chicago in the Hyde Park neighborhood. Wright considered this house the crowning achievement of the Prairie style and ultimately the structure that he cared about the most in terms of preservation. Designed and built between 1908 and 1911 for Frederick Robie, a successful businessman, and his family, the house cost nearly $60,000, which is the equivalent to approximately $1.3 million today. Interestingly enough, the built-in dining room cabinets are made of plywood, which at the time was a new technologically advanced building material.

The Nathan G. Moore House, 1895/1923, 333 Forest Avenue.

The Nathan G. Moore House, 1895/1923, 333 Forest Avenue, Oak Park.

Robie only lived there for a little over a year; he was forced to sell to pay off his father’s debts when his father passed away and his wife divorced him after finding out about his mistress and his frequent trips to brothels. Two more families lived in the house, with the last family selling it to a seminary, which turned it into a dormitory for married students. Two plans to demolish the house were defeated, with the last attempt in 1957 bringing out Wright, at age 90, to protest via a press conference. The house was saved and donated to the University of Chicago in 1963, and has been undergoing restoration since 1997 by the Frank Lloyd Wright Preservation Trust. There is still much to be done before the house is returned to its former glory, but historians have been working painstakingly to ensure that the house reflects its original state.

Hills-DeCaro House, 1896/1906, 313 Forest Avenue.

Hills-DeCaro House, 1896/1906, 313 Forest Avenue, Oak Park.

I have long been a fan of Arts and Crafts, Art Deco, and Frank Lloyd Wright architecture, mostly for their devotion to simplicity and attention to detail. Seeing the intricate patterns in the stained-glass windows and rugs and lighting fixtures, the murals in his first house, and the built-ins was definitely a spiritual moment for me and a very moving experience – you truly feel close to Nature. If you’re ever in Chicago, touring Oak Park and the architectural buildings in the City is a must to fully appreciate the history of this great area.

Hemingway’s legacy in Oak Park
As a writer, you should not judge, you should understand.
– Ernest Hemingway, American author and journalist

Paying homage to "Papa" Hemingway in front of the house of his birth.

Paying homage to “Papa” Hemingway.

By the time we finished up our Frank Lloyd Wright tour and walked to Ernest Hemingway’s birthplace (339 N Oak Park Avenue, Oak Park, IL 60302, 708.848.2222), I only had an hour to do either the tour of his birthplace home or the museum. I could not do both. I stole a glance around the first floor of the three-story Victorian house, which was decorated in period style. When I was told by the guides that the tour focused on the first six years of his life in his grandfather’s house (his family moved afterwards to a house that his mother designed and had built) and that the museum, which is located in the Oak Park Arts Center (200 N Oak Park Avenue) a few blocks away, was comprehensive and focused on his writing career, I opted for the museum – while the kids grabbed a bite to eat. My appetite was literary.

The Oak Park Center, which houses the Hemingway Museum.

The Oak Park Center, which houses the Hemingway Museum.

I wish I could have done both, but the museum was a treasure trove of Hemingway memorabilia and had numerous artifacts that required more than an hour of one’s time to see and read everything, including two videotapes that were running in a loop. Hemingway was born on July 21, 1899, and went to school through high school in Oak Park.

I took a seminar on Hemingway when I was an undergrad at UC Davis, and I loved reading his novels and short stories, sharing and discussing what was going on in his stories, and examining the structure and rhythm of his sentences and the choice of his words. One of the best pieces of advice Hemingway has given to other writers is his famous theory of omission, from Death in the Afternoon: If a writer of prose knows enough of what he is writing about he may omit things that he knows and the reader, if the writer is writing truly enough, will have a feeling of those things as strongly as though the writer had stated them. The dignity of movement of an ice-berg is due to only one-eighth of it being above water. A writer who omits things because he does not know them only makes hollow places in his writing. He also wrote, “Never confuse movement with action,” which is another great lesson for writers.

The crowded room that housed myriad photos and other memorabilia from Hemingway's life.

The crowded room that housed myriad photos and other memorabilia from Hemingway’s life.

I knew that he was an ambulance driver during WWI and was injured by trench mortar and machine gun fire while passing out supplies to soldiers in Italy in 1918. I knew that he fell in love with one of the nurses who cared for him and that she eventually gave in to his advances, but when he returned to the States, she wrote him a Dear John letter. It was fascinating to read Agnes Von Kurowsky’s letter. Little did she know that her letter would be displayed in a museum for all to read!

Some interesting things I learned: His high school teachers gave him a solid foundation for his writing. One teacher in particular had her pupils imitate the writing styles of well-known authors, which I think is a great exercise. Instead of going to college, Hemingway became a cub reporter for the Kansas City Star newspaper, which taught him to be the writer that he best known for: short sentences, short first paragraphs, and vigorous English. There were so many things to see and read that I could not get through in an hour. Another trip to Chicago warrants another trip to Oak Park, which is also a quaint, bucolic town by itself. After leaving the museum, I felt inspired and look forward to rereading some of Hemingway’s classic novels and short stories.

I leave you with this Hemingway quote: “My aim is to put down on paper what I see and what I feel in the best and simplest way.”

The Simpson Dunlop House, 1896 by E. E. Roberts, 417 Kenilworth Avenue. Not a Wright design, but just another beautiful home in Oak Park.

The Simpson Dunlop House, 1896 by E. E. Roberts, 417 Kenilworth Avenue. Not a Wright design, but just another beautiful home in Oak Park.

Chicago: Wrigley Field tour, rain delay, and a Cubs win

Hello again, everybody. It’s a bee-yoo-tiful day for baseball.
– Harry Caray, American baseball broadcaster

The iconic red sign.

The iconic red sign.

We celebrated Jacob’s 13th birthday last Friday by taking the Wrigley Field Tour in the morning, enduring a three-hour rain delay, and watching the Chicago Cubs beat the Houston Astros, 3-1 – all runs scored by solo shots. All told, we were there almost 11 hours, much to the chagrin of our 10-year-old daughter who claims that she hates baseball (clearly not her mother’s daughter).

The hand-turned scoreboard doesn't include all the teams in order to retain its original form.

The hand-turned scoreboard doesn’t include all the teams in order to retain its original form.

After touring Fenway Park in Boston three summers ago, we definitely had to tour Wrigley Field, which is the second-oldest ballpark next to Fenway in all of Major League Baseball (MLB) and oldest National League ballpark. Wrigley Field was once a seminary, but when the train ran past it and it was no longer a quiet place to meditate, Charles Weeghman bought it, named the park after himself, and was home to the Chicago Whales as part of the Chicago Federal League. Weeghman Park held its first game in April 1914. The financially troubled league folded the following year, but Weeghman purchased the Cubs and moved the National League team to the 14,000-seat park to play its first game in April 1916. The Wrigley family purchased the team from Weeghman in 1920 and in 1926 it was renamed Wrigley Field after owner William Wrigley Jr., who was a chewing gum magnate. (Side story: Wrigley sold laundry detergent and other cleaning products and attached chewing gum on the bottles as a perk; when people started buying his products just for the chewing gum, he ditched the products and stuck to selling chewing gum. Smart businessman!)

Enjoying Astros infield practice.

Enjoying Astros infield practice.

In 1937, the bleachers and original, hand-turned scoreboard were constructed when the outfield was renovated to accommodate more seating. The park had no fence in the early days; Cubs fans held a rope that they lowered when the Cubs were up at bat and held it up higher and farther back when the opposing team came to the plate. MLB banned that practice, and the Cubs built a wooden fence, with ivy – which is original to this day – planted in three days in 1937. If a baseball lands in the ivy, the outfielder holds up his hands and the ball is a ground-rule double. If the outfielder decides to go after the ball in the ivy, the ball is live and he’d better know where that ball is. It’s not unusual for two balls to pop out of the ivy – as many balls are hit there during batting practice – at which time the ball is live. When the wind blows across the ivy wall, the leaves change color as they ripple in the wind; it’s a poetic and beautiful moment.

Wrigley rooftop seats across the park before game time.

Wrigley rooftop seats across the park before game time.

Because Wrigley Field is smack dab in a residential area, games were played during the day. The neighborhood opposed night games because of fear of mayhem at night but agreed to have lights installed in 1988 when the Cubs threatened to leave Wrigley Field. MLB would not allow the Cubs to play in their own park for post-season games because night games commanded more television telecast revenue. However, only 30 out of the 80 home games are played in the evenings, which was a compromise to residents. People used to watch the games from the rooftops on the outfield side of the park until the Cubs and MLB complained, citing safety reasons, but, of course, they also weren’t able to charge admission for those viewers. Local bar owners worked with the building owners to reinforce the buildings to support bleachers, which incited further anger from the Cubs because they still weren’t getting ticket receipts from the fans in those bleachers, which look quite nice from afar. After the Cubs installed opaque strips to the outer nets to obscure viewing, the bar and building owners came to an agreement with the Cubs, which allowed the team to receive a percentage of the rooftop bleacher ticket revenues.

Filling up with fans.

Filling up with fans and a view of the iconic ivy walls.

Posing with Hall-of-Famer Ernie Banks, who dubbed Wrigley Field "the Friendly Confines."

Posing with Hall-of-Famer Ernie Banks, who dubbed Wrigley Field “the Friendly Confines.”

Wrigley kept the team in the family for more than six decades but the latest heir sold it to the Chicago Tribune for $21 million in 1981, which turned around and sold the team and the field to the Ricketts family, whose father began Ameritrade, for $900 million in 2009. Our tour guide put the cost of owning a Major League baseball team in perspective: Second baseman Ryne Sandberg’s contract in the 1980s was approximately $24 million – more than what the Wrigley family sold the team for just years earlier. The latest dispute with the Cubs owner and neighbors is over erecting a Jumbotron in left field, which would obstruct the view and erase the old-time feel of the park, which currently has approximately 41,000 seats. At first blush, you don’t get an immediate sense – like you do at Fenway – that the park is old, but the exposed steel structure and the columns, which were constructed in 1927 to uphold the upper decks and as a result obstruct the view of some seats, and the original manually operated scoreboard, ivy wall, and minimal electronic signage retain the charm of an old ballpark.

Wind and rain descend delaying the game for three hours.

Wind and rain descend, delaying the game for three hours.

Rain delay, then let’s play ball
I’ve never experienced a rain delay of a ballgame, having gone to many Oakland A’s and SF Giants games for years. Amazingly, after a quick nap, the time didn’t drag, even for Isabella. We spent the tour panting in the heat and humidity, and then donned our sweaters and jackets when we got to our seats after watching the Astros infield practice and the temps dipped and the wind whipped. Thankfully, we were under the overhang in Section 209 in left field. We observed the 30-man crew roll out the tarp, listened to the organist play song after song, people watched, and then cheered along with the rest of the approximately 33,000 people in attendance as the crew came out, peeled away the tarp, and raked and chalked the infield.

A little rain doesn't stop the fans from waiting it out.

A little rain doesn’t stop the fans from waiting for the first pitch – three hours later.

Play ball!

Play ball!

The Cubs lost 101 games last year, but they were still 10th in the majors in home attendance. This year they are 15 games out of first place in the National League Central division, tied with the Milwaukee Brewers for cellar honors, and their average home attendance is 11th in the majors. Go figure, but good for them. Too bad the Oakland A’s fans aren’t coming out to support their fabulous team. As fate would have it, the Cubs hosted the Houston Astros, who are also in the cellar of the American League Western division. Despite both pitchers having ERAs close to 5, it was a pitchers’ dual. We witnessed a ball lost in the ivy for a ground-rule double, and all four runs were scored by solo home runs. The food fare was minimal, I’m assuming in keeping with the old-time feel. Because of the rain delay, we ended up eating hot dogs for both lunch and dinner!

Beautiful Lakeview district with its turn-of-the-century triplexes.

Beautiful Lakeview district with its turn-of-the-century triplexes.

Lakeview district and Julius Meinl
Afterwards, we met up with my friend, Maria Diecidue, whom I wrote a profile about her volunteer work in India. Maria lives three blocks from Wrigley Field. Although the neighborhood is also known as Wrigleyville, the district is called Lakeview. It’s a beautiful area that has a Brooklyn vibe to it – unique shops, lots of restaurants and bars, neighborhood feel to every corner, and wonderful architecture from the turn of the century. Many triplexes have been turned into single-family homes, but most, if not all, still retain their architectural integrity.

A taste of Vienna: Tea with chocolate mousse cake and carrot cake.

A taste of Vienna: Tea with chocolate mousse cake and carrot cake.

Maria took us to Julius Meinl (3601 North Southport Avenue, 773.883.1862), a Viennese-style coffee and pastry shop, a few blocks away. We were serenaded by a violin and bass duet. I had ginger tea with my carrot cake, while David enjoyed a mousse-like chocolate cake. It was the perfect way to erase our hot dog fest. We had a nice if short visit with Maria, which culminated in a quick tour of Lakeview. So, I have found yet another place I wouldn’t mind living. I will have to check out Chicago in January and stay for a while….

A violin and bass duet at Julius Meinl.

A violin and bass duet at Julius Meinl.

June 12, 1898: Philippine Independence Day declared

The price of freedom is eternal vigilance.
 – John Philpot Curran, Irish lawyer and politician

An outfit that reminds me a little of traditional Filipina fashion - the embroidered flowered blouse with stiff sleeves and scalloped edges.

An outfit reminiscent of traditional Filipina fashion – the embroidered flowered blouse with stiff sleeves.

Today is Independence Day in the Philippines. On this day in 1898, Filipino revolutionary Emilio Aguinaldo declared independence from 300 years of Spanish rule during the Spanish-American War. The Americans came to the islands to expel the Spaniards, but turned around to become the Filipinos’ next colonial ruler and exporter of the island country’s rich natural resources. Despite the declaration of independence, Filipino rebels fought for their country in 1899, in what was to become the Philippine-American War, with which few Americans are familiar. In the Treaty of Paris, Spain ceded the Philippines to the U.S. for $20 million. It was not until after World War II that the Philippines finally gained their independence.

Floral accessories for an embroidered blouse with scalloped edges.

Floral accessories for an embroidered blouse with scalloped edges.

I first read about the little-known Philippine-American War when I was researching the history of the Philippines for my first novel-in-progress, A Village in the Fields. My main character, Filipino farm worker Fausto Empleo, left his homeland to come to America to “change his luck,” which is what my father wanted to do when he left his coastal hometown of San Esteban, Ilocos Sur, in the early 1920s. The turn of the century in the Philippines was and still is an incredibly fascinating time. The exhilaration of freedom was soon stamped out by shock and betrayal. This was a war that was not acknowledged, an unofficial war. It was a war that helped determine the 1900 presidential election of incumbent William McKinley and anti-imperialist William Jennings Bryan. It has been later called the first Vietnam War for the torture that American soldiers inflicted on innocent civilians. It is a war that I will be returning to in my fiction writing.

Colors of the Pacific Ocean.

Colors of the Pacific Ocean.

In honor of Philippine Independence Day, here is an excerpt from Chapter 2, “What was left behind,” of A Village in the Fields:

When Fausto reached the second floor, he saw a candle glowing in his lelang‘s bedroom. She was usually asleep by this time. He hesitated before pulling the crocheted curtain aside, but she was sitting up, waiting for him. He sat on her bed, inhaling the musty, bitter scent of betel nut mixed with lime from her lips and red-stained teeth.

“Lelang Purificacion,” he said, “Pa will not give me his blessing.”

“If he did not love you, he would let you go without a care. You should be honored by the burden of his love,” she said, and sighing, stared out her window, the capiz-shell shutters wide open. “When you are in America, you must remember him and forgive him. Better to be hurt by his love than to be all alone with nothing.”

“What about you, Lelang? Will you try to change my mind?”

She pursed her lips as if she had swallowed something more bitter than betel nut juice. Tiny wrinkles fanned out from her mouth. “I have a story to tell you. It is not my intent to change your mind. I tell you this now because I do not want you to be ignorant.”

He laughed. “Lelang, I am going to America to gain knowledge.”

She kneaded her fingers. Veins, like thick twine wrapped around her fist, warped the shape of her hands. “Do you know the date June twelfth, eighteen ninety-eight?”

“Independence Day,” Fausto answered. “The Americans helped us defeat the Spaniards. Miss Arnold taught me about the Americans’ involvement.”

She pulled her shawl over her shoulders. “There was another war after the Spaniards were removed, but you will not find it in any American history books. Your father was too young to know what was happening in the lower provinces and on the other islands – we do not talk of the bad times – but I told him years later, when he could understand. He never forgot, but now you will make him think of it all the time.”

“Remember what?” Fausto’s voice was as taut as the woven mat stretched across his lelang‘s bed.

“The war with the Americans,” she said softly. “I had received word that my parents and sisters and brothers were being sent to a detention camp set up by American troops in our hometown of Batangas. We thought the news was false, but your lelong, Cirilo, went down there to bring them here. When he left, your father was only ten years old. More than a year and a half passed before your lelong came back alone. He had lost so much weight. He would not say what became of my family. The day he came back was the day my family ceased to exist. It was also the day your lelong ceased to exist.”

Fausto’s Lelong Cirilo, who before his long absence had welcomed the removal of the Spanish government from the Philippines, kept his sons from attending the American schools that were cropping up across the islands and swore under his breath at the American soldiers who passed through town. Two American Negroes arrived one day and settled in San Esteban. He befriended them, welcoming them into his home for meals and accepting their dinner invitations. When he returned late one evening, he confided to Purificacion that they were American soldiers who had deserted the army. “They will never return to the States. They said they are freer in our country than in their own,” he insisted, though she didn’t believe him. He told her the white American soldiers had called him “nigger” and “savage,” words that they also hurled at the Negroes. “My friends call me brother, and there is great truth to that,” he said.

Fausto had no recollection of visits to their house by Negro soldiers, though he remembered seeing two Negro men at his lelong‘s funeral. When his lelang died, he looked older than his sixty years. He always had snowy white hair as far as Fausto could recall. Each year had separated him farther from Batangas, but keeping a secret from his family for so many years had aged him, kept the memories fresh.

When Fausto’s lelong was dying, he took his wife’s hand and said, “Forgive me, Purificacion, for burdening you with silence and now the truth about your family.”

He spoke as if he’d just arrived amid the makeshift detention camps in Batangas. He was labeled an insurrecto, an insurgent, by American soldiers who found him outside the hastily drawn boundaries. Everywhere soldiers confiscated possessions and destroyed crops, torched houses and rice-filled granaries. Black clouds blotted out the sun, and rolling green fields turned to gray as ash rained down on the camp. Ash clung to their hair and eyelashes, their bare arms and legs. Cirilo tasted smoke in the rotten mangos they were being fed. Exhausted and starving, he fell asleep to the squeal of pigs that were being slaughtered nightly and left to rot in their pens. When Cirilo asked what they had done wrong, an American commander accused the villagers of being guerrilla supporters. It was necessary, the commander said, to “depopulate” the islands.

Unrest plagued the camps. Men, propelled by the hope of either being released or spared death, turned on each other by identifying alleged rebels – regardless of whether the accused were guilty or innocent. Those singled out were held down on the ground, arms pinned behind their heads or tied behind their backs, mouths pried open, beneath the running faucet of a large water tank. “Water cure,” Cirilo called it. The American soldiers in their cowboy hats shoved the butts of their rifles or their boots into the prisoners’ bloated stomachs for several minutes while a native interpreter repeated the word over and over again, “kumpisal” in Tagalog to the prisoner and “confess” in English for the Americans’ sake. But many of the prisoners drowned.

The detention camps were overcrowded, with little food or clothing to go around. Malaria, beriberi, and dengue fever raged. American doctors treated the soldiers who fell ill, but neglected the sick prisoners. Everyone in Purificacion’s family died of disease. Cirilo didn’t know if anger or grief had kept him alive. He escaped with two prisoners one night, but not without having to grab the patrolman’s bayonet and smashing his skull. On his journey back to Ilocos Sur, he heard similar stories of detention camps and ruined villages. Some said the Americans were angry because the natives were ungrateful for their help in liberating them from Spain. Instead of welcoming them as heroes, the Americans complained, the natives were betraying them, hurling their bolos and hacking to pieces American soldiers who stepped beyond the towns they had pacified. They used spears, darts, and stones, but they were sticks compared to the American bayonets. The guerrillas were easily flushed out by the American soldiers like quails in a shoot.

Cirilo met a compatriot who had fled his hometown of Balangiga on the island of Samar. He told Cirilo that the American soldiers had rounded up the townspeople and crowded them so tightly into open pens that they could not move. They slept upright, leaning against one another. The American Navy fired on his village from their gunboats before they landed to invade. “They are turning our lovely islands into a howling wilderness. They cry out, ‘Kill and burn’ everyone and everything in their path,” he said. Another man who had escaped ruin in his hometown recited an order – like a drinking song, a motto – that he said had been handed down from an American general to all his soldiers in the field: “Everything over ten” would not be spared. Everything over ten.

“This is your America,” Fausto’s lelang told him, and slumped against the scarred wooden headboard of her bed.

“Things have changed.” Fausto’s voice faltered. “When I was in school—”

“Poor boy!” She sat up, spittle flecked on her lips. “Those kind American women in those American schools were not teachers. They were just another soldier, telling you what to do. How could I tell you then? Miss Arnold opened up the world for you. Education is good. But they came here for a darker purpose.”

“Lelang, Miss Arnold is not evil.”

“You are not listening!” She shook her head, her gray hair brushing her shoulders like a stiff mantilla. “You will never be accepted by the Americans because they will always treat us different. The Negroes in America have been there for hundreds of years, but they are still treated like criminals. Why go there with this knowledge?” The flame hissed as the melted wax pooled around the short wick. Her dark eyes were wet in the candlelight. “You think your father is ignorant, but he is not. American education made you smarter, but their schools erased our past, just as the Spaniards did.”

“Lelang, I am not ignorant.” Fausto got up from her bed, but suddenly felt weightless, unanchored. He held on to one of the thick, carved bedposts.

“I told this story only once before, to your father after your lelong passed away.” Her fingers kneaded her pliant cheek, skin shattered by deep wrinkles. She whispered, “Until that time, Emiliano never knew why his own father was so untouchable.”

“I am sorry for your loss.” Fausto’s words, his whole body was stiff. He pulled down the mosquito net from the four posters of her bed until she was encased in white gauze. She seemed so far away from him as she blew out the candle.

“We must make use of the bad times,” she called out.

He unhooked the curtain from her bedroom entryway and let it fall in front of him. “It will make me stronger, Lelang,” he said. He waited to hear her voice again. In the moonlight, wisps of smoke rose and disappeared.

The Mob Museum in Las Vegas: You’d better like it or else

The Mob Museum is housed in a historic building.

The Mob Museum is housed in a historic building, the site of a famous mob hearing.

There are always two sides of
the story.

– The Mob Museum slogan

More than a year ago I celebrated my 50th birthday in Las Vegas. So it’s only fitting that I return to the scene of the crime. Last year, while I was at my conference, David took the kids to The Mob Museum: The National Museum of Organized Crime and Law Enforcement (300 E. Stewart Avenue, 702.229.2734), after I told him my cabbie suggested I see the newly opened museum, which received very favorable reviews. They only lasted an hour because Isabella was too disturbed by the images. This after one of the women who worked there told David in a raspy voice, “Some of the exhibits in the museum are inappropriate for children.” To this day, we will refer to certain things as “inappropriate for children” in a raspy voice.

I couldn't help not smiling while in the police lineup.

I couldn’t help not smiling while in the police lineup.

David claimed you could easily spend three hours in the museum, which is located in downtown Las Vegas and housed in the city’s historic federal courthouse and U.S. Post Office. (One of its courtrooms was recreated to bring to life the Senate committee hearings on organized crime.) The museum people told me to allot an hour per floor and they are correct. Unfortunately, I didn’t have three hours to spare and had to rush through some of the rooms. At first and at times throughout, I felt overwhelmed by all of the artifacts, captions, and photos. It’s more like too much of a good thing. I wanted to read all the captions, look at every single photograph, and sit down for every audiovisual presentation. You get to see both the genesis and life cycle of the mob and the very late response by law enforcement. The lateness in responding had everything to do with corruption at the top on down to the police officers on the street. Bribes, for instance, forced officers to turn a blind eye to tax evasion, gambling, prostitution, and whiskey runs during Prohibition.

This display showcases G Man (slang for FBI agent or Government Man) artifacts from the 1930s through the 1950s.

This display showcases G Man (slang for FBI agent or Government Man) artifacts from the 1930s through the 1950s.

There are so many rooms and exhibits; it’s not unlike a maze, and each room is packed with artifacts and each floor has multiple audiovisual exhibits. One of my favorite rooms is the Hollywood Room, which has plush round seating couches facing a big screen showing famous mob movies. The Godfather and The Godfather II remain my all-time favorite mob movies. I wouldn’t mind coming back and taking a more leisurely pace to get to everything I rushed through and those things that I missed. But there’s no mistaking the biggest takeaway from the Mob Museum, no matter how much time you spend there: Crime doesn’t pay.

The Wynn's courtyard garden just inside the entrance boasts huge globes of flowers.

The Wynn’s courtyard garden just inside the entrance boasts huge globes of flowers.

A Room with a view at the Wynn.

My Room with a View at the Wynn.

Beyond the seven-year plan

I never made one of my discoveries through the process of rational thinking.
– Albert Einstein, theoretical physicist

Now that the weather's warm, unabashedly throw lace and flowers together.

Now that the weather’s warm, unabashedly throw lace and flowers together.

The other night I was thinking about what I would blog about for Friday’s entry. I have several irons in the fire, so to speak, but none fully formed to post. I told myself that I can always “go fishing” again if I wasn’t inspired. And then my sister Heidi called yesterday morning, and in our conversation she marveled at the fact that three months ago she would have scoffed if someone had told her she would be spending her retirement from elementary school teaching, at age 53, investing and working on new business ventures. We were talking about what we had planned to do and what things we stumbled into. It got me to thinking about my “seven-year plan,” which I had never told her about but shared with her on our call.

When I was a senior in high school, my two older sisters were already in college. My mother told all of us that she and my father, retired since I was 10 years old, could not afford to send any of us to a four-year university. We had to attend the junior college in the next town over for two years and then transfer to a university. Fair enough. I held a 20-hour-a-week job at a dry-cleaner shop and loaded up on classes every semester. There was not much to do in either my hometown of Terra Bella or the next town over, Porterville, but I was bound to be productive. And I was bound to get over my painful shyness and introversion, and bust out of my small town. I dreamed big and developed this seven-year plan, which commanded that after graduating from Porterville College, I would attend UC Davis, join the Peace Corps for two years, work for a year to earn money since I wouldn’t have any after volunteering, and then go to a creative writing program (see my Welcome to the Dress at 50 page).

Trying out my vintage dance card pencil pin with reclaimed vintage button ring, and vintage Weiss earrings.

Trying out my vintage dance card pencil pin with reclaimed vintage button ring, and vintage Weiss earrings.

I ended up staying in school three years at Davis, working a year at the UCD law library the year after graduating, and going to Alaska and then San Francisco for my two years of volunteering with the Jesuit Volunteer Corp. instead of Africa with the Peace Corps. Minor adjustments. But I would stick to my plan of attending a creative writing program, which I did. I had met my first husband while a JVC volunteer in San Francisco. Our organization, a prisoners’ rights union run by a Jesuit priest, worked with my husband’s criminal justice nonprofit, and I very much admired his passion and commitment to social justice. His family was from Syracuse, and I chose Syracuse’s creative writing program because of a certain well-known writer in residence and the fact that the university paid my way via a teaching assistantship. The location ended up being central to cementing the relationship, as I grew very close to his parents.

Navy and orange go well together. Think Syracuse! A nude Mad Men pump ties it all together.

Navy and orange go well together. Think Syracuse! A nude Mad Men pump ties it all together.

After graduation, I returned to San Francisco. It was the natural thing to do. But it was also the end of my seven-year plan. I did not have goals or concrete plans after that very precise list of things to accomplish. I assumed I would get married, get a job, buy a house, and raise a family. Indeed, on the cross-country drive home, my husband proposed to me. I have asked myself a number of times long ago – and then recently while on the phone with Heidi – why I slipped into the pattern of get married, get a job, buy a house, and raise a family. It was a comforting life plan, and perhaps I didn’t trust myself enough at the time to think I could really succeed as a writer. Sure, I could write stories in an undergraduate fiction class or get into a creative writing program. That wasn’t hard, and at times it didn’t seem like “the real world.” It seemed, at least or me at times, that we were just pretending to be writers in this artificial environment. But could I get published? Could I be bold enough to say, I am a writer, and really mean it? Did I have the perseverance and patience?

You can make lace on lace work by mixing the colors.

You can make lace on lace work by mixing the colors.

The short answer was no. I was too much of an amateur. I didn’t trust myself or have confidence in myself, especially after being told in my last semester by a cantankerous poet and professor that I didn’t know how to write. This manifested itself in my not writing at all. I remembered the nervous laughter my fiction-writing friends and I exchanged when we told one another to keep writing after leaving Syracuse. Of course, we would. More nervous laughter.

Another way to break up lace on lace is with accessories: The Edwardian-era purse and mottled brown (animal print) bring more texture and interest in vintage and contemporary.

Another way to break up lace on lace is with accessories: The Edwardian-era purse and mottled brown (animal print) bring more texture and interest in vintage and contemporary.

There is a certain comfort, after going bold, in burrowing in a secure place. What if I had stopped myself and said, this is not where I should be going. When I told my co-worker – at her wedding reception, no less – that my husband and I had separated, all she could say was, “Oh, Patty!” in a forlorn yet knowing voice that deflated me. Months later, she brought up a time during my wedding planning when we were riding up an escalator at the Union Square Macy’s during our lunch break. I had looked off into space and said to no one in particular, “Is this all there is?” My heart broke when she told me. Soon other co-workers reminded me of the many times I showed up to work in the mornings with red eyes and a swollen face from crying. We were not compatible in marriage and indeed had different ideas of marriage. I was unhappy, stunted in every aspect of my life, and I did not know what to do.

I remember scoffing at my husband at the time of our separation when he concluded that one of the problems was that I had married too young, had only been in two serious relationships, and had never really lived on my own. I was 29 years old at the time; how could that be too young? But he was right. I should not have stopped at seven years with my dreams. I should not have entered a place that I wasn’t ready to be. In fact, I had retreated to this place.

A bejeweled collar ties together a striped pink and cream casual blouse and green faux ostrich handbag.

A bejeweled collar ties together a striped pink and cream casual blouse and green faux ostrich handbag.

To be clear, I am not advocating not getting married or having a family. I am advocating getting married because you and your partner love one another very much and want to spend the rest of your lives together, learning, exploring, sharing dreams big and small, and helping each other achieve those individual and combined dreams. And if one of those dreams is to buy a house and raise a family, that’s fantastic. But at the same time, job, marriage, home ownership, and family should not be taken on because that’s what people do, that’s what our parents did. Or because at the time it was safe and comfortable. All of those things should not blunt who you are or want to be.

The dreams, the goals, of becoming the person we are meant to be should never end. Don’t stop at a certain timeframe. First and foremost, take time to bloom as a person – the other stuff will either happen or not. But don’t force it. Instead, focus your energies on dreaming big. Go bold. Never give up. It’s never too late, no matter your age, so long as you are young in spirit.

A close-up of the bejeweled collar (Anthropologie) and Carmela Rose bird and sphere earrings.

A close-up of the bejeweled collar (Anthropologie) and Carmela Rose bird and sphere earrings.

March is National Women’s History Month

My idea of feminism is self-determination, and it’s very open-ended: Every woman has the right to become herself, and do whatever she needs to do.
– Ani DiFranco, American singer and songwriter

Cream and black, linen and lace for a beautiful spring day. Vintage handbag from Secondi (Washington, D.C.).

Cream and black, linen and lace for a beautiful spring day. Vintage handbag from Secondi (Washington, D.C.).

When I first started my lifestyle blog, The Dress at 50, I envisioned it to embody its tagline – “live the creative life.” I still follow that maxim. Striving to live the creative life touches on every aspect of my life – marriage, parenthood, friendship, career, fiction writing, blogging, fashion and interior styling – and my topics have covered that wide range. I’ve also focused on women, regardless of where they are in their lives, and their creative endeavors.

Since the launch, I’ve become fascinated by women entrepreneurs – why and how they got to where they are today with their businesses. Creativity definitely factors into many of their decisions and choices. As I’ve interviewed women whose shops I patronize, I’ve found an interesting theme of going from one career to the one of their calling – hence the category Transitions and Transformations. The one thing I’ve learned from all of these women is to truly follow your heart, taking risks along the way. And for this former non-risk taker, it is a lesson I’m still learning. But their stories are so inspiring, I come away invigorated and ready to welcome opportunities and the chance to open new doors.

Accessorizing creamy lace with a Gorgeous and Green statement reclaimed vintage necklace (Berkeley, CA), End of Century cicada ring (NYC), Alkemie scarab cuff (Los Angeles), and Paz Sintes textile earrings (Spain).

Accessorizing creamy lace with a Gorgeous and Green statement reclaimed vintage necklace (Berkeley, CA), End of Century cicada ring (NYC), Alkemie scarab cuff (Los Angeles), and Paz Sintes textile earrings (Spain).

I’ve also realized I want to celebrate women who have done amazing and courageous things in their lives. I have already met two incredible women – very close friends for more than 30 years – whose story will inspire you to stretch your boundaries of giving and living life to the fullest. Peggy and Tenny’s story will be posted this Friday, March 22nd.

March is Women’s History Month. It seems appropriate at this time to reiterate the focus of my lifestyle blog as the celebration of women at any stage of their lives who are living a full, creative life and making a difference in their communities, both local and global. I looked up the provenance of Women’s History Month: In 1987, after being petitioned by the National Women’s History Project, Congress designated the month of March as Women’s History Month. Since then, every year Congress has passed resolutions requesting and authorizing the President to proclaim March as Women’s History Month, which continues to be done.

Mixing linen and lace with carpet-bag floral and textile, reclaimed vintage, and vintage-inspired jewelry.

Mixing linen and lace with carpet-bag floral and textile, reclaimed vintage, and vintage-inspired jewelry.

The 2013 National Women’s History Month theme, Women Inspiring Innovation through Imagination, honors “women who throughout American history have used their intelligence, imagination, sense of wonder, and tenacity to make extraordinary contributions to the STEM (Science, Technology, Engineering, and Mathematics) fields.” Certainly this year, I hope to feature women who have made contributions in this area, and have lived fully and creatively along the way.

My mother – as an immigrant mother who sacrificed her life to ensure that her daughters were participants in the American Dream – was a role model to me for her perseverance and her unconditional love. When I look back at my formative years, I can’t recall other female role models who influenced my life or remember studying in school women in history who made an impact on me. Whatever the reason or reasons, it matters little now. At any age, women can adopt female role models and become role models themselves.

Confidently put on that new dress and be a role model for your kids, your family and friends, and your community. And live the creative, meaningful, and full life!

Confidently put on that new dress and be a role model for your kids, your family and friends, and your community. And live the creative, meaningful, and full life!