Roma day 4: the Vatican, Sistine Chapel, and St. Peter’s Basilica

Our common home is Creation and this common home is being ruined to everyone’s detriment but especially that of the poor. I therefore call for responsibility on the basis of the role God gave us when he created the earth – to preserve and cultivate its garden.
– Pope Francis, St. Peter’s Square, 17 June 15

We were told that Pope Francis comes out on Wednesday mornings and addresses pilgrims and the general audience, although we were slated to take a tour of the Vatican, Sistine Chapel, and St. Peter’s Basilica the following day on Thursday. We missed his speech, a prelude to his upcoming encyclical, his first major teaching letter on climate change and its effect on the planet’s poor. But we did visit his home.

The old entrance to the Vatican Museum.

The old entrance to the Vatican Museum.

The dome of Saint Peter's Basilica rises before us.

The dome of Saint Peter’s Basilica rises before us.

David’s brother Michael had taken a tour of Rome a few years back given by a local tour company called Enchanting Tours (561.401.0182 or locally +39 347 256 1664, info@enchantingrome.com) and recommended them to us. There are several tours to choose from, but we decided on the Early Morning Vatican tour. We arrived across the street from the entrance to the Vatican at 7:30am after a brisk walk from our apartment, and were met by our incredibly knowledgeable and passionate tour guide Nicolas.

Our Enchanted Rome tour guide NIcolas was our very gracious host.

Our Enchanted Rome tour guide Nicolas, a very gracious host, explains the backstory of the Sistine Chapel’s fresco paintings by Michelangelo.

The courtyard before entering the Vatican Museum.

The courtyard before entering the Vatican Museum.

David and I had gone through the Vatican Museum on our first trip to Rome, but having a guide give backstory on the many things we saw enriched our visit. The tour lasted 3.5 hours, and there was so much information to process. One of the amazing things I learned is that the Vatican is the second smallest country and yet it is the fourth richest country. Ahem. Perhaps the progressive Pope Francis can do something about that. Politics aside, here are some photos of our tour.

Tapestry depicting King Herod's killing of all children under the age of two.

Tapestry depicting King Herod’s killing of all children under the age of two.

Intricate ceiling detail in the Room of Maps.

Intricate ceiling detail in the Room of Maps.

Country map of the boot that is Italy. Nicolas told us that the mapmakers back in the day drew maps that were 85 percent accurate, which is quite a feat.

Country map of the boot that is Italy. Nicolas told us that the mapmakers back in the day drew maps that were 85 percent accurate, which is quite a feat.

The famous painting depicting all the great minds of the day.

The famous painting, the title of which I’m drawing a blank, depicting all the great minds of the day.

La Pieta, taking everyone's breath away.

La Pieta, taking everyone’s breath away.

Inside Saint Peter's Basilica, an enormous church by any standard.

Inside Saint Peter’s Basilica, an enormous church by any standard.

A colorful Swiss guard keeping watch over the Vatican.

A colorful Swiss guard keeping watch over the Vatican.

The end of the tour, in front of Saint Peter's Basilica.

The end of the tour, in front of Saint Peter’s Basilica.

Strolling the Trastevere neighborhood
We walked along the Tiber River to get to the Trastevere neighborhood, known for its bohemian and artsy shops. Along the way, we encountered colorful graffiti and a long line of white tents that looked to be the start of some summer celebration along the river that would be happening after our departure. While the neighborhood seemed a little rundown and not at all as I remembered it to be, David nonetheless took some great photographs.

Strolling the riverside was very scenic and calming.

Strolling the riverside was very scenic and calming.

Taking a break on the steps, watching ducklings being swept by a river with a deceptive current.

Taking a break on the steps, watching ducklings being swept by a river with a deceptive current. Isabella’s skirt matches the color graffiti.

Detail of the front of a residence in the Trastevere neighborhood.

Detail of the front of a residence in the Trastevere neighborhood.

Lots of graffiti in Trastevere.

Lots of graffiti in Trastevere.

Yes, David gave change to this homeless man to take his photograph by colorful graffiti.

Yes, David gave change to this homeless man to take his photograph by a garage decorated with graffiti.

Roma in the mirror of a vespa.

Roma in the mirror of a vespa.

Medallions adorning one home back in the Piazza Navona area.

Medallions adorning one home back in the Piazza Navona area.

Two-seater bicycle parked between a pizzeria and a kitchen shop.

Two-seater bicycle parked between a pizzeria and a kitchen shop.

David, taking candid photographs of us all, catches me off guard.

David, taking candid photographs of us all, catches me off guard.

Our last meals in Roma
The other day, our very nice jewelry shop clerk Alexandra at Achilli Gioielli recommended her husband’s restaurant La Zanzara (Via Crescenzio 84, 39 06 68392227) for dinner. We weren’t able to make a reservation in time, so we opted to go to this restaurant for lunch following our Vatican tour. It was close to the Vatican, although we took a circuitous route trying to find it on our way back to the apartment. What a beautiful and charming restaurant it is. It reminds me of a French bistro. We ate rather early for lunch, and David was able to snap some serene photographs, but by the time we left, the place was packed and boisterous.

La Zanzara on Via Crescenzio, near the Vatican.

La Zanzara on Via Crescenzio, near the Vatican.

Quiet before the lunchtime crowd spills in.

Quiet before the lunchtime crowd spills in.

The bar at La Zanzara when you first walk in.

The bar at La Zanzara when you first walk in.

What a delight! While I can’t remember the name of the dish I ordered, my pasta was fresh with strong, bold flavors. The dolci was amazing. I didn’t write the name down and the menu can’t be downloaded. Just trust the photographs to entice you. If I gain 10 pounds on this trip, it will be worth it for all the great food we are consuming.

My pasta with fish, capers, olives, and lemon.

My pasta with fish, capers, olives, and lemon.

A latte and creamy dessert with flakey pastry.

A latte and creamy dessert with flakey pastry.

Latte and chocolate dessert with fruit dusted in sugar.

Latte and chocolate dessert with fruit dusted in sugar.

For our late dinner in Roma, we walked three minutes from our great neighborhood to Il Belli (Via Giuseppe Gioacchino Bello 33, 06 3221031)  and sat outdoors to enjoy the warm evening. My ravioli was flavorful, as was the escarole that we shared. After chocolate lava cake and perfetto dessert, our host poured everyone a shot of chocolate for the kids and a shot of chocolate and rum for us adults. Now that is a fitting way to say good-bye to Roma! If we must say good-bye to Roma….

Ravioli, escarole, and a good bottle of red.

Ravioli, escarole, and a good bottle of red.

Just another sinfully rich dessert - perfitto.

Just another sinfully rich dessert – perfitterole.

 

I eyed Isabella's chocolate lava cake....

I eyed Isabella’s chocolate lava cake….

I will definitely miss and already miss our spacious apartment in Roma. The next time I come back, I hope to be able to stay here again. The place itself and the neighborhood were ideal. I can’t imagine staying anyplace else in this beautiful city. But onwards we go to Naples.

The painting we woke up to every morning in Roma.

The painting we woke up to every morning in Roma.

The living room painting by Tommaso C, cousin of our apartment owner Alberto.

The living room painting by Tommaso Cascella, cousin of our apartment owner Alberto.

 

Roma day 3: return to the Coliseum and Forum

While stands the Coliseum, Rome shall stand; when falls the Coliseum, Rome shall fall, and when Rome falls, the world.
– Lord Byron, English poet and leading figure of the Romantic Movement

I remember 18 years ago when we landed in Rome in the morning and we followed advice to stay awake the entire day so as not to prolong jet lag. Our first stop was the Coliseum and the Forum. And I remember vividly my awe as I approached the Coliseum and looked up at one of the great wonders of the world.

In all its glory, the Coliseum.

In all its glory, the Coliseum in panoramic view.

This time around, we weren’t a couple on the verge of becoming engaged. We were a family of four traveling with good friends, another family of four. We took two taxis and promptly wondered how we would communicate, given that we didn’t have Internet access. I remember the crowds, but somehow this time around the crowds were more intrusive. This is probably due to the influx of selfie sticks, which I now roundly condemn. No longer do people communicate with strangers and ask them to take their picture. Now we have single people or couples who don’t take into consideration who is behind them or in front of them, as they become self-absorbed in taking their photographs. But enough said of this phenomenon!

Arches just inside the entrance.

Arches just inside the entrance.

Family portrait with the Coliseum in the background.

Family portrait with the Coliseum in the background.

As before, I was in awe of the monuments. We took a guided tour, which was a mixed bag of having to deal with a crowd within a crowd and missing a lot of what our tour guide in training was saying because it was hard to decipher his words via the speakers. One thing we all agreed to hearing was how the word “vomit” came to be. Passage ways in the Coliseum were built below or behind the seats so that people could disperse quickly upon completion of the event or in an emergency evacuation. The Latin word “vomitoria” means rapid discharge. The English took that word to mean what we know it as today.

A panoramic view of the interior of the Coliseum.

A panoramic view of the interior of the Coliseum.

One other thing that I remember our tour guide telling us was the argument among archaeologists about whether to rebuild the Coliseum or to let it continue to crumble, showing the passage of time. I saw sections of the Coliseum that had been rebuilt with newer brick. After comparing them side by side, I have to agree with the archaeologists who believe that it should not be rebuilt. It just doesn’t look the same. Perhaps it can be rebuilt elsewhere, but the ruins remain as is. I agree that after all is said and done, you can’t renovate a masterpiece. It becomes part of antiquity and future generations can read books and see photographs – and perhaps see a rebuilt version on other grounds.

The gang's all here for a group shot in the Coliseum.

The gang’s all here for a group shot in the Coliseum.

After the Coliseum tour, we ate our first mediocre meal of our trip, which we figured would be the case, given its proximity to the Coliseum and our understanding that many of these nearby dining establishments cater to tourists. That was planned because after lunch we then went to the Forum, an enormous rectangular piazza filled with wondrous ancient ruins.

The arch before entering the Forum.

The massive Arch of Constantine before entering the Forum.

Detail from the Arch of Constantine.

Detail from the Arch of Constantine.

Detail of a broken piece on the grounds of the Forum.

Detail of a broken piece on the grounds of the Forum.

A view of the Arch

A view of the Arch of Septimus Severus, which is at one end of the Forum.

A long view of the Forum facing the entrance to the Forum.

A long view of the Forum facing the entrance to the Forum.

A grouping of ruins.

A grouping of ruins.

Columns facing a cloudy sky.

Columns facing a cloudy sky.

The one ruin I was especially looking forward to revisiting was the Vestal of Virgins. David had taken a series of black-and-white photographs of this row of statues 18 years ago. After walking around, we thought perhaps they were behind sections that were cordoned off for refurbishing. Thank goodness, to my delight, the last section we entered was the famed ruin. It did not disappoint. Neither did David’s new set of photographs.

My favorite area of the Forum - the Vestal Virgins.

My favorite area of the Forum – the Vestal Virgins.

A lone virgin.

A lone virgin.

The Vestal Virgins and backdrop.

The Vestal Virgins and backdrop.

While we were walking around the grounds of the Vestal of Virgins, the promised thunderstorm that was lurking behind gathering clouds early afternoon finally came down with mighty force. We were prepared with our rain jackets and umbrellas. As Sofia, Raissa and Mike’s daughter, dutifully held the umbrella to protect David’s camera, David took this amazing photograph:

The Forum during a thunderstorm.

The Forum during a thunderstorm.

One thing David and I didn’t do when we were here 18 years ago was go to the top of the gardens and overlook the Forum. We were in for a breathtaking treat, which was a fitting way to conclude our visit to the Forum.

Amazing clouds over a glorious sweep of the Forum.

Amazing clouds over a glorious sweep of the Forum.

A view from the top of the Forum looking toward the entrance.

A view from the top of the Forum looking toward the entrance.

To the far left of the Forum from the top of the gardens.

A view of the far left of the Forum from the top of the gardens.

A panoramic view of the Forum.

A panoramic view of the Forum.

Our last stop of the day was to see Michelangelo’s statue of Moses (with horns) at San Pietro in Vincoli (Saint Peter in Chains). The famous marble statue was commissioned in 1505 by Pope Julius II for his tomb. Michelangelo worked on it from 1513 to 1515. The church also contains the chains of Peter, which were used to bound Saint Peter when he was imprisoned in Jerusalem.

Seeing Michelangelo's Moses the second time around is not any less impressive than seeing it for the first time.

Seeing Michelangelo’s Moses the second time around is not any less impressive than seeing it for the first time.

We concluded our evening with our last dinner at the Grotta Azzura, two doors down. And went to bed with our red birds safely watching over us in our Roma apartment.

I'm going to miss waking up in this amazing four-poster bed with red birds in flight above me.

I’m going to miss waking up in this amazing four-poster bed with red birds in flight above me.

Rome: street scenes and hidden treasures on day 2

Veni, vedi, vici.
– Caius Julius Caesar, Roman military and political leader

On Tuesday, we retraced our steps to the Pantheon, Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, and Piazza Navona with our friends. While they went back to the apartment with the kids to rest up in the afternoon, David and I remained to return to Piazza Navona and wander the streets on our way back to the apartment. It reminded me of when we first came to Rome 18 years ago. David took photographs while I poked in and out of quiet streets and the hidden treasures of local shops.

Lone rower on the Tiber River. On our way to Trevi Fountain.

Lone rower on the Tiber River. On our way to Trevi Fountain.

Rooftop garden of an apartment building on the way to the Spanish Steps.

Rooftop garden of an apartment building on the way to Piazza Navona.

Artists abound at Piazza Novena.

Artists abound at Piazza Navona.

An explosion of colorful flowers on a balcony along Piazza Navona - a common scene in Roma.

An explosion of colorful flowers on a balcony along Piazza Navona – a common scene in Roma.

We split up at the base of the Spanish Steps after ascending to the top and enjoying the view. From there, David was my able compass, although we deliberately meandered in and out of side streets. One of the shops that we ventured into was tucked in a corner of a quiet street. Achilli Giotelli (Via dei Prefetti, 44 – 00186, 06 68133661) is a compact jewelry shop. Alexandra, the shop clerk, was very nice and indulged me as I tried on different pairs of earrings by Disegno. I settled on a matte black pair.

Achilli Gioielli jewelry store, Via dei, 44.

Achilli Gioielli jewelry store, Via dei, 44.

Wearing my Disegno earrings while looking out of our Roma apartment living room window.

Wearing my Disegno earrings while looking out of our Roma apartment living room window.

Wearing the earrings in front of a painting by Tommaso Cascella, artist and cousin to the owner of the apartment we are renting.

Wearing the earrings in front of a painting by Tommaso Cascella, artist and cousin to the owner of the apartment we are renting.

Shuttered window on the way to the Pantheon.

Shuttered window on the way to the Pantheon.

Antique and art shops are tucked away on this quiet side street. David and I loved the fact that you could see a reflection of graffiti across the street in the window of this art shop.

Antique and art shops are tucked away on this quiet side street. David and I loved the fact that you could see a reflection of graffiti across the street in the window of this art shop.

Street sign on a quiet intersection.

Street sign on a quiet intersection.

I loved this little artisan chocolate shop.

I loved this little artisan chocolate shop.

When you get closer, you can see the craftsmanship and love put into each little piece of chocolate.

When you get closer, you can see the craftsmanship and love put into each little piece of chocolate.

Like little jewels and pretty wrapped presents.

Like little jewels and pretty wrapped presents.

Another street scene, with a gypsy woman walking along the vespas.

Another street scene, with a gypsy woman walking on one side lined with parked vespas.

Just one of many charming street scenes.

Just one of many charming street scenes.

Gelato shop - yes!

Gelato shop – yes!

Another charming shop along the way home to Via Cicerone.

Another charming shop along the way home to Via Cicerone.

Walking along a bridge over the Tiber River, with another bridge and the Vatican in the background.

Walking along a bridge over the Tiber River, with another bridge and the Vatican in the background.

Statue on the bridge over the Tiber River.

Statue on the Ponte Sant’ Angelo Bridge over the Tiber River.

On the other side of the Ponte Sant' Angelo Bridge.

On the other side of the Ponte Sant’ Angelo Bridge.

Our second night we ate at the Grotto Azzura, a ristorante – pizzeria located two doors from our apartment at Via Cicerone 62/A (Tel. 06 3234586). Jacob, Isabella, and I had a sinfully rich lasagna. We celebrated our first evening as two families with a bottle of sangiovese, which went well with our main course. But I still had room to put away a mamosa cake, which was a very moist yellow cake with lemon crème. It was so good that we ate dinner there the following evening. The owner recognized us and treated us like long-time patrons. At the end of our meal, he offered us limoncello, an apertif made with lemons, which we gratefully accepted. It’s this kind of experience that makes me feel at home in Roma. And I’d love to live here for another six months to a year. In this great apartment in a great neighborhood, and of course, in a wonderful city that is Roma.

David's flavorful ravioli.

David’s flavorful ravioli.

Mamosa cake to round out the delicious dinner.

Mamosa cake to round out the delicious dinner.

A favorite restaurant for both families - Grotta Azzurra.

A favorite restaurant for both families – Grotta Azzurra.

 

Roman holiday: return to Rome

I found Rome built of bricks. I have her clothed her in marble.
– Augustus, Roman emperor

We landed in Rome on Monday and we’ve concluded our second full day. I thought it easiest to do a pictorial and recap the highlights of our trip a day later. We are traveling with our friends Mike and Raissa and their two kids. We met with them the second day. On our first day, we checked into the apartment that Mike found for the first city’s stay. It’s a gorgeous four-bedroom, two-bath apartment in the heart of the city, near Piazza Cavour and the Tiber River. The owner’s cousin’s artwork – from abstract paintings to hand-welded beds (moon and stars, and birds) and nightstand – adorned the apartment, which is already graced with tall ceilings and gleaming hardwood floors.

Our bedroom in our apartment in Roma.

Our bedroom in our apartment in Roma.

The living room part of the great room that also includes the dining area.

The living room part of the great room, which also includes the dining area.

The dining area of the great room.

The dining area of the great room.

Here's the other bedroom featuring welding work by the owner's artist cousin. One of the other bedrooms has a loft and another bed below.

Here’s the other bedroom featuring welding work by the owner’s artist cousin. One of the other bedrooms has a loft and another bed below the loft, which is perfect for kids.

The first day we took the kids to Trevi Fountain, where David proposed to me 18 years ago. Thank goodness the fountain was flowing back then, as it is currently under construction. I’ll leave the symbolism of that to your imagination!

Eighteen years later, we return to where David proposed to me. Alas, under construction!

Eighteen years later, we return to where David proposed to me. Alas, under construction!

Still gorgeous, still overrun by tourists, Trevi Fountain is still a sight to behold - even under construction.

Still gorgeous, still overrun by tourists, Trevi Fountain is still a sight to behold – even under construction.

Eighteen years later, here are what we have to show for our amazing years together - Isabella and Jacob.

Eighteen years later, here is what we have to show for our amazing years together – Isabella and Jacob.

We also spent time at the Pantheon, the Spanish Steps, and Piazza Navona. We ended the evening with dinner at Mama’s, which was recommended by our apartment owner. The food was great, including my sea bass with basil, capers, and tomatoes with crispy potato chips. Of course, we indulged in gelato, not once or twice but thrice!

David and I return to one of our favorite ancient buildings in Roma, and it became Jacob's favorite part of the day.

David and I return to one of our favorite ancient buildings in Roma, and it became Jacob’s favorite attraction of Roma thus far and the best part of his day.

We used Isabella's selfie stick, which is a hot item being sold at all tourist attractions, by the way, to take this photo of us positioned under the Pantheon's occulus.

We used Isabella’s selfie stick, which is a hot item being sold at all tourist attractions, by the way, to take this photo of us positioned under the Pantheon’s occulus.

David got a new camera, a Nikon 5500 SLR, and what beautiful, crisp images it takes! This is a detail of a statue from one of the fountains at Piazza Novena, another favorite place that David and I were looking forward to return to. It did not disappoint - from the artists to the statues to the charming outdoor restaurants under colorful awnings.

David got a new camera, a Nikon 5500 SLR, and what beautiful, crisp images it takes! This is a detail of a statue from one of the fountains at Piazza Novena, another favorite place that David and I were looking forward to seeing again. It did not disappoint – from the artists to the statues to the charming outdoor restaurants under colorful awnings.

We have a photograph that David took of this statue 18 years ago, which hangs in our bedroom. Nice to revisit it.

We have a B&W photograph that David took of this statue 18 years ago, which hangs in our bedroom. Nice to revisit it in color.

More statue love from PIazza Novena.

More statue love from PIazza Novena.

The following day, our friends Mike and Raissa and their two kids arrived. We retraced our steps from our Monday tour. We had more leisurely time to take more pictures, capturing the architecture of the city, and enjoy this part of town. David and I were able to wander around on a photo tour and we had a really nice time in a jewelry shop, but all that is for tomorrow’s entry.

Dinner at Mama's our first night in Rome - tender sea bass under a bed of homemade thin potato chips.

Dinner at Mama’s our first night in Rome – tender sea bass under a bed of homemade thin potato chips.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Return to Chicago: ‘City of the Big Shoulders’

Come and show me another city with lifted head singing so proud to be alive and coarse and strong and singing…proud to be a Hog Butcher, Tool Maker, Stacker of Wheat, Player with Railroads and Freight Handler to the Nation.
– Carl Sandberg, American writer, poet, and editor

When I was still packing at 11pm on a Friday night, knowing that I had to get up at 3am the next morning to leave the house at 4am, I told myself that yes, it was worth leaving that early for my flight from Oakland International to Chicago. I was going to be working Sunday through Wednesday for my company’s annual conference, and the only day I had to explore the Windy City was Saturday afternoon. I slept on my flight, and by the time I was in the cab heading into the heart of Chicago, I knew I had made the right decision.

On my way to dinner my first evening in Chicago - a beautiful cityscape sunset on the Chicago River.

On my way to dinner to join my colleagues at the Stout on my first evening in Chicago – a beautiful cityscape sunset on the Chicago River.

If you're not going to get a room at the W City Center with a real view, you might as well have a view of fantastic architecture, the Marriott on N. Adams.

If you’re not going to get a room with a real view at the W City Center, you might as well have a view of fantastic architecture, in this instance the Marriott on N. Adams.

Armed with Google map on my iPhone, I found the Blue Line (actually by asking locals since I’m useless with north-south-east-west directions), got myself in the right direction, and was reunited with my favorite neighborhood of vintage goods – Wicker Park. For those keeping notes, that would be heading to Forest Park and getting off at Damen. I immediately found my way to Eskell (1509 N. Milwaukee Avenue, Chicago, 60622, 773.486.0830), where I first discovered Laura Lombardi’s industrial-vibe jewelry years earlier. Unfortunately, Eskell was out of stock of her jewelry, but they carry a wonderful collection of their own label earrings, necklaces, and bracelets. Better still, their label is reasonably priced. Surprisingly, the first thing that caught my eye was their selection of sunglasses. I tried on a pair that was part Western, part Hollywood, and it seemed destined to be worn by me, walking out of the store and into the warm late afternoon – with a very spring temperature in the upper 60s.

Eskell shop dog lounging in the same spot when I was here last - two years ago.

Eskell shop dog Goose lounging in the same spot when I was last here – two years ago.

It was a sunny spring afternoon in the Windy City - so shopping for sunglasses was appropriate.

It was a sunny spring afternoon in the Windy City – so shopping for sunglasses was appropriate.

I'll take these cool silver-tipped shades....

I’ll take these cool silver-tipped shades….

Eclectic shop design - keys and horns.

Eclectic shop design – vintage photographs, keys, and horns.

Eskell label delicate drop earrings with a sterling silver shell ring I got at Eskell on my last visit.

Eskell label delicate drop earrings with a sterling silver shell ring I got at Eskell on my last visit.

Eskell features its own inexpensive line of edgy jewelry.

Eskell features its own inexpensive line of edgy jewelry.

Vibes of Cleopatra in these geometric drop earrings.

Vibes of Cleopatra in these geometric drop earrings.

Vintage brass earrings designed by Eskell.

Vintage brass earrings designed by Eskell.

I didn’t have to go far to hit Vintage Underground (1507 N. Milwaukee Avenue, Chicago, 60622, 773.384.7880) and see if owner Carlos and his assistants, Ada and Ellen, were there that Saturday. Indeed, they were! I wasn’t sure if they would remember me, but with a little prodding and immediate recognition from Ellen, they did all remember. I told Carlos that my blog post about his borrowed paraphrased advice: “Plant a tree, write a book” was the most viewed blog post for me ever (not that I have legions of people following me or discovering my blog, but that blog post still reigns supreme). The full quote is “Plant a tree, have a child, write a book.” Since my last visit to the shop in December 2013, I learned that the original  Vintage Underground, which was housed in the basement of a building several blocks away, consolidated with its other shop on N. Milwaukee Avenue, which is now where you’ll find heaps upon heaps of vintage treasures.

Next door neighbor: Vintage Underground!

Next door neighbor to Eskell: Vintage Underground!

Dazzling vintage rhinestone jewelry.

Dazzling vintage rhinestone jewelry.

More vintage bling. The fun part was trying on the oversized ball earrings.

More vintage bling. The fun part was trying on the oversized ball earrings from the 1970s on the left of the top shelf.

As you can see, combining inventory of two locations results in a shop overflowing, dripping with treasures. I could have spent the rest of the day poring over the jewelry in the glass cabinets. I checked out the vintage rhinestone and crystal necklaces and earrings. I tried on the statement sterling silver necklaces. As Carlos rang up my purchase of a 1970s sterling silver necklace made in Mexico, I told him with a heavy heart that my parent company is no longer going to have its annual conference in Chicago. He mourned with me, but responded with a smile, “So you’ll have to come here just for pleasure.” Indeed.

Sterling silver necklace from Mexico. Better left unpolished.

Sterling silver necklace from Mexico. Advice from Ada: Better left unpolished for character.

The crew at Vintage Underground - Carlos and X and X.

The fabulous crew at Vintage Underground – from left to right, Ellen, Carlos, and Ada. This photo belongs in a fashion mag.

Wicker Park - retail shops take over old buildings, but you can still appreciate the architecture.

Wicker Park – retail shops take over old buildings, but you can still appreciate the architecture.

I had a lot of fun moderating a diverse panel of experts on the topic of population health management for one of our clients at their booth in the cavernous exhibit hall in the equally cavernous McCormack Place.

On Monday and Tuesday afternoon, I had a lot of fun moderating a diverse panel of experts on the topic of population health management for one of our clients at their booth in the cavernous exhibit hall in the equally cavernous McCormack Place. Give a Filipino a microphone and don’t be surprised if he or she breaks out in song.

I had a great, though grueling, conference, reuniting with my colleagues and getting to know our clients during dinners and events. But what I really enjoyed was walking around Chicago. Everywhere I turned, I found architectural gems. I think that is what I love the most about this city – its unique and abundant architecture and also the Chicago River.

Every block you turn, you get great architecture.

Every block you turn, you get great architecture.

Carl Sandburg called Chicago "City of the Big Shoulders" in his poem "Chicago."

Carl Sandburg called Chicago “City of the Big Shoulders” in his poem “Chicago.”

My "frolleague" Eric Wicklund and I walked from our Maggiano's dinner to the Magnificent Mile, marveling at the glowing cityscape and the mild spring evening.

My “frolleague” Eric Wicklund and I walked from our Maggiano’s dinner to the Magnificent Mile, marveling at the glowing cityscape and thoroughly enjoying the mild spring evening.

I don’t know when I’ll return to Chicago, but as it is one of my favorite cities, I know it won’t be too long a time in between. Only next time, I’ll be on vacation and spending my days and evenings soaking in all the Windy City has to offer.

I've been to the top of Willis Tower, which was two blocks from my hotel, but for our client dinner my last evening in Chicago, we were treated to dinner at the Metropolitan Club on the 67th Floor.

I’ve been to the top of Willis Tower, which was two blocks from my hotel, but for our client dinner my last evening in Chicago, we were treated to dinner at the Metropolitan Club on the 67th Floor, with an amazing top-of-the-world kind of view.

Carl Sandburg: "Come and show me another city with lifted head singing so proud to be alive and coarse and strong and cunning."

Surreal, mesmerizing view of skyscrapers – like toy building blocks crowded together.

Looking down on the Chicago Board of Trade Building with the statue of Ceres on top...and a reflection of the Metropolitan Club tables.

Night falls: Looking down on the Chicago Board of Trade Building with the statue of Ceres on top…and a reflection of the Metropolitan Club tables.

Goodnight, Chicago.

Goodnight, Chicago, from the Metropolitan Club. Last words from Carl Sandburg: “By night the skyscraper looms in the smoke and the stars and has a soul.”

Melody Shah: sharing ‘brain-shattering’ outdoor and classroom adventures

Wilderness is not a luxury but a necessity of the human spirit, and as vital to our lives as water and good bread. A civilization which destroys what little remains of the wild, the spare, the original, is cutting itself off from its origins and betraying the principle of civilization itself.
– Edward Abbey, American author and essayist

Melody at Snow Tongue Pass, Sierra High Route.

Melody at Snow Tongue Pass, Sierra High Route.

In the summer of 2014, Melody Shah, El Cerrito High School teacher and LUNAFEST East Bay Committee member, and her husband, Sati, spent two months hiking a 600-mile High loop in California’s High Sierra. They started south from Sonora on trails to Road’s End in King’s Canyon at the South Fork of the King’s River in the southern Sierra Nevada, and hiked cross-country on the Sierra High Route back to Twin Lakes in northern Yosemite. Their trip, specifically through the 195-mile Sierra High Route in King’s Canyon National Park, is the subject of their talk at the REI Berkeley store (1338 San Pablo Avenue, Berkeley, CA 94702, 510.527.4140) on Wednesday, March 18th, 7 to 8:30pm, and the REI San Francisco store (840 Brannan Street, San Francisco, CA 94103, 415.934.1938) on Wednesday, March 25th, 7 to 8:30pm. “I want to take our experiences and share them with a larger audience,” she said of her objective for the talks. With the Berkeley event sold out and on waitlist, and the San Francisco event almost sold out, Melody will definitely achieve her goal.

A beautiful view of the Swiss Alps.

A beautiful view of the Swiss Alps.

When the LUNAFEST East Bay committee convenes in the fall to begin preparations for our spring film festival “by, for, about women,” the 10 of us look forward to hearing about Melody’s spring break and summer backcountry explorations. When we meet in January, we get updates of winter holiday adventures. Just to give you an unfairly brief overview, in January 2013, Melody and Sati paraglided with friends in Yelapa, a small beach town in Cabo Corrientes, Jalisco, Mexico. In the summer later that same year, they lived in the Azores and paraglided off of volcanoes. She has also gone paragliding in Indonesia and British Columbia, and traversed the European Alps from west to east, which included flying, hiking, and backpacking across France, Switzerland, Austria, Italy, and Slovenia. On that latter paragliding trip, she launched off of flower-covered mountainsides and glided across valleys. “That perspective of these amazing landscapes is so freeing and other-worldly,” she told me. She’s canyoneered in California’s Sierra Nevada and throughout Southern Utah, including Zion National Park and Escalante National Monument, and toured the backcountry of Eastern Oregon’s Wallowa Mountains. And in 2005, she spent two months completing 700 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail through California’s high country.

Melody and Sati atop Mt. Whitney.

Melody and Sati atop Mt. Whitney.

I haven’t been camping in years and I confess I’m acrophobic, and that’s exactly why I am in awe of and inspired by, what I call, Melody’s acts of courage. Since 2004, she’s chronicled her adventures in her interweb, Range of Light!, which boasts some beautiful images of nature across the continents. When I marveled at how fearless she is, Melody interjected, saying, “I have a lot of fears, but in order to overcome them, I don’t deny fear.” When she first began preparing for her outdoor adventures, she admitted that she was “super terrified.” “I didn’t know I could do these things,” she confided. “But as I went through each adventure and gained strength, knowledge, and skills, my confidence grew. One of the most important goals of the experience for me is becoming more capable and then allowing fear to be a consideration and a way to analyze and strategically approach the risks. Fear keeps me smart and safe about the whole adventure.”

Melody, her two brothers, and her mom at Fundy National Park, New Brunswick, Canada, August 1984.

Melody, her two brothers, and her mom at Fundy National Park, New Brunswick, Canada, August 1984.

Roots: Love of the outdoors, love of design
Melody hails from Merrimac, MA, on the New Hampshire border. Her love of the outdoors can be traced to her mother, Joyce Audy Zarins, artist, sculptor, and children’s book author and illustrator. All of the family vacations taken when her mother was a single parent were outdoor trips, as were many of them after her mother remarried. Melody, her two siblings, her mother, and later, her stepfather camped, hiked, and canoed. “She wasn’t scared to take a bunch of us kids down a river for a few days,” Melody related, with a laugh.

Baiba, Melody, and her mom canoeing the Saco River in Maine, July 1984.

Baiba, Melody, and her mom canoeing the Saco River in Maine, July 1984.

She also inherited her mother’s artistic talents. Melody graduated from Syracuse University in 1995 with a Bachelor of Fine Arts degree in art media, with a focus on 3D modeling and animation. That summer, she helped put together an exhibit for the annual SIGGRAPH conference on computer graphics and design in Los Angeles. She ended up landing a job in the Bay Area, and she’s remained a California resident ever since.

When Melody began working for advertising agencies, the first Internet boom was ramping up. “Young people were the ones who knew about the Internet, so it was a great time to come out of college and find a job easily,” she explained. In her first job, she designed websites for public and private organizations – including the White House – at a time when websites were just emerging. When her work shifted to online advertising, something she didn’t want to do, she went back to school. At San Francisco State University, she studied lightweight composite design specifically for backcountry snowboarding gear, with the intent on being an outdoor gear designer. With her degree in industrial design, she planned to marry her love of the outdoors with her career.

Melody's students in the ITA at El Cerrito High School.

Melody’s students in the ITA at El Cerrito High School.

While in school, Melody taught college and adult classes at City College and CELLSpace (now Inner Mission), a community-based hub for artistic and cultural classes and events, both in San Francisco. She taught in the motion graphics department at Ex’pression College for Visual Arts in Emeryville. In 2007, she “answered the call” to teach at El Cerrito High School, and since then has been teaching digital art and design classes as the Lead Teacher of the Information Technology Academy (ITA) – one of the local beneficiaries of LUNAFEST’s fundraising efforts – and digital photography ROP classes and media classes within the Media Academy. “I love the idea of having a job where I can share the things that I’m passionate about with people and feel that I’m contributing to the community in a positive way,” Melody said.

Sati and Melody camping - 'home away from home.'

Sati and Melody camping – ‘home away from home.’

Opening up opportunities and the world
Teaching high school students is “a totally different world” versus teaching college students and adults, but Melody pointed out that the goal remains the same: give students an environment to collaborate, solve problems, and create art and design through technology in a way that is meaningful to them. “In the academy setting, I can foster this community within the bigger school and give kids a place of their own, and empower them with skills that help build their confidence and help them shape their identity,” she said. When companies hire ITA students upon completion of their internships because of the skills that the students learned and brought to the table, she enthused, “It’s really powerful and impactful and validating. Those moments are great.” Melody hears often from ITA graduates who are majoring in art and design in universities and colleges or are now in the workforce, working for companies such as Pixar.

Paragliding at Big Sur.

Paragliding at Big Sur.

She illustrates visual design concepts in the classroom leveraging content from her travels. In doing so, she shares her love of the outdoors and her traveling adventures with her students. “It introduces an element of fun, but the kids also appreciate and respect me because they see that I have these skills outside of the classroom,” she explained.

Melody has also engaged her ITA students to participate as volunteers at LUNAFEST. She became involved with the film festival when the East Bay Committee invited her to join four years ago while she was teaching a video class at the school. “I feel lucky to be part of that group, being a part of something positive for the community,” she said, referring to the committee members and their work, as well as fundraising for the ITA and the Breast Cancer Fund. “It’s also important for students to be exposed to positive messages,” she added.

Hiking the Sierra, with a stunning view before them (photo credit: Ki Hong).

Hiking the Sierra, with a stunning view before them (photo credit: Ki Hong).

She likes that the films selected for LUNAFEST offer such diverse viewpoints in storytelling. “I have a love for the telling of a story; a lot of my work with students is helping them articulate and tell their stories,” she said. ITA students who volunteer at the VIP event and the film festival are not only exposed to the good work being done around breast cancer prevention but are introduced to the filmmaking world – using video as the medium to tell a story. The message she imparts to kids about the film festival: It’s possible to have your story shared and celebrated via a platform such as LUNAFEST and become something meaningful to other people. Her students watch the films in class and Melody admitted that many of the films are “outside of the students’ comfort zone,” but she likes challenging them to widen their world and be open to other messages and styles. “They have responded well,” she reported. “They like being surprised.”

Backcountry skiing in the Sierras.

Backcountry skiing in the Sierras.

Teaching, Melody acknowledges, is a “funny job.” “There are some things that are very pragmatic and very black and white that you try to give to your kids, but skills are only part of it,” she revealed. “I hope the kids start to think of life as an adventure. I hope they know that they are empowered to advocate for themselves and communicate with confidence about the things that they can do or that they know how to do. I hope that they foster curiosity about the world outside their comfort zone and learn to recognize that being curious is going to open up opportunities that would be missed otherwise.” When her students adopt her enthusiasm for and philosophy of life – and her graduates are proof of that certainty – her hopes will indeed have been realized. And their worlds will open up like leopard lilies along the Pacific Crest Trail high up in the Sierras.

Launching at Chamonix, the French Alps.

Launching at Chamonix, the French Alps.