Philadelphia eats: getting our fill

Posted on September 5, 2014 by Patty

A cheese steak is a long, crusty roll filled with thinly sliced sautéed steak and melted cheese. generally, the cheese of choice is Cheez Whiz, but American and provolone are common substitutions. The art of cheese steak preparation lies in the balance of flavors, textures and what is often referred to as the ‘drip’ factor. Other toppings may include fried onions, sautéed mushrooms, ketchup and hot or sweet peppers.
– About the Philly cheese steak, from the Philly Way

One of the anticipated indulgences – at least for David and me – of family vacation is tasting the local fare. If we have time before our trip, we look up what Top Chef chef owns a local restaurant or we ask for recommendations, which is why I’m writing about our culinary exploits. I’m always game for trying out restaurants by word of mouth, and I hope my reviews are useful for others. We took advantage of the complimentary continental breakfasts at our Lancaster and Baltimore hotels, and the only restaurant chain we allowed ourselves to frequent was Starbucks for breakfast.

Lancaster’s local charm
As I mentioned in my blog post about Amish country, we missed out on staying at the Amish Homestead (Ben and Emma, 231 Turtle Hill Road, Ephrata, PA 17522, 717.859.2403, Ext. 0) and experiencing a home-cooked Amish meal, which greatly pained me. Not that our two dinners in the Lancaster area were terrible, but we lost an opportunity to fully experience and embrace the Amish world and to provide Isabella with memories that would have made her summer vacation one of the best of her life. Despite being in Pennsylvania Dutch Country, one thing that our family did pass on was a slice of shoo-fly pie, as nobody was interested in its main ingredient – molasses.

Cozy, earthy-toned atmosphere at Aussie and the Fox.

A downtown antique and vintage mall clerk happily referred us to Aussie and the Fox (38 W. King Street, Lancaster, PA 17603, 717.826.4040) for the first dinner of our vacation. The restaurant, which is celebrating its first anniversary this month, serves a blend of Australian and American cuisine, focusing on local, fresh ingredients and offering vegetarian and vegan options. Wondering about the name? In 2011, Lancaster-native Julia Garber and her Australian-born partner, Colin Morrell, partnered with Frank Fox, to make good on their dream of opening up a restaurant. “By blending the two identities of the playful, modern Aussie and the timeless sophistication of the Fox, a unique dining concept was born,” according to the restaurant. “The Aussie and the Fox embodies these two distinct personalities and their contrast influences every detail.”

Heirloom grains.

The kids loved their appetizers as entrees, which included inkers (fresh calamari, fresno chili butter, basil, and preserved lemon) and peel & eat shrimp (a pile of chilled poached shrimp tossed in seasoning, served with chili remoulade & smoked tomato jam for some dipping). David gave his orecchietta pasta of pork sausage ragout, caramelized leek and arugula pesto, grilled zucchini, sweet peas, and shaved goat pecorino a low score because the pasta came from box. My heirloom grains and fresh veggies from local farmers’ fields was mixed with Thai basil, sprouts, and honey-ginger peanut sauce, giving it a nutty texture and lots of savory flavor. The décor of Aussie and the Fox was a mix of earthy and charming Alice in Wonderland, which is the total opposite of the old-world, Colonial brick, Norman Rockwell kind of vibe downtown Lancaster exudes.

The second night we drove around nearby Strasburg, looking for a small-town, old-fashioned dining experience. We got that at the Strasburg Creamery and Deli, which also includes its Country Store and Candy Kitchen (1 West Main Street, Strasburg, PA 17579, 717.687.0766). The shop sells candy and other gifts – and displays busy bees working in their glass-enclosed honeycomb – while the creamery and deli serve up homemade ice cream and waffle cones, deli sandwiches, and fountain drinks. The place was hopping; long lines of locals strolled in to satisfy their sweet tooth on a warm August evening.

Downtown Strasburg and the local deli and creamery.

Baltimore: get the blue crab
We didn’t allot ourselves as much time as we’d hoped while in Baltimore. David had spent some time in the area for work several years ago and was looking forward to blue crab. Instead of dining at nearby Inner Harbor, which reminded me of Pier 39 in San Francisco in terms of tourist attraction, we took our crab at Oriole Park in Camden Yards – the Chesapeake crab roll and crab waffle fries for me and the beer-battered soft-shelled crab sandwich for David. We proved that you cannot have too much crab, even if it is expensive.

Crab, crab, and more crab.

Philadelphia: cheese steak, Asian influence, farm-to-table, and Cuban
Philadelphia has a growing reputation for culinary excellence and many of its chefs have rung up James Beard Awards nominations. Iron Chef Morimoto’s Morimoto Restaurant (723 Chestnut St, Philadelphia, PA 19106, 215.413.9070) and Iron Chef Jose Garces’s Rosa Blanca (707 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106, 215.925.5555) are certainly two of the city’s more famous restaurants. But alas, they were out of our price range.

We checked out the posted menu for Farmicia Food and Tonics (15 S. 3rd Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106, 215.627.6274), which is in Old City District, so within walking distance of many of our destination points. Farmicia’s concept is to “capture the pleasures of simply crafted food and excellent beverages served in a relaxed yet lively environment. The emphasis is on great tasting food and beverages crafted from local, organic, and artisanal producers.” Isabella was content with a BLT with French fries, while Jacob ordered the rosemary-roasted lamb tenderloin with green beans (he gave a thumbs up), roasted root vegetables, and yogurt-lemon sauce. David struck out with a dry duck breast with crisped skin, wild rice pilaf, sugar snap peas, and tart cherry glaze. I lucked out with the yellow fin tuna grilled in lemon/olive oil and served with tarragon-caper aioli with green beans and red potatoes. Our overall impression was lukewarm. Sending back a dish that is not prepared correctly, however, should enhance one’s dining experience.

Philly cheese steak and homemade chips at the Independence Mall Café.

We had to try the Philly cheese steak, and we did so at two different places – the National Constitution Center café and the Independence Mall Café. The version at the former was too salty, although the meat itself was tender, while the version at the latter café was dry but well seasoned. A little history of the cheese steak is in order: The cheese steak made its official debut in 1930. Pat Olivieri was a South Philadelphia hot dog vendor who decided to put some beef from the butcher on his grill. A taxicab driver noticed the aroma and asked for his own steak sandwich. The next day, as the story goes, rumor of the delicious lunch had spread, and cabbies around the city came to Olivieri demanding steak sandwiches. Soon after, Olivieri opened up a shop on 9th Street and Passyunk Avenue, Pat’s King of Steaks, to sell his new creation. Eventually, according to legend, he added cheese to the recipe. Today, Pat’s grills, which I learned about after our trip, are “sizzling 24 hours a day.”

On our first day in Philadelphia, we had time to go to the Visitors Center to become familiar with the area before heading out to Citizens Bank Ballpark for the Phillies game. We knew our dinner was going to be ballpark food, of course, so we tried to hold off eating. While in the Old City District, we stumbled upon Old City Frozen Yogurt and Crepes (229 Market Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106, 215.625.0500). I’ve become quite the frozen yogurt fiend, and since they had my favorite flavor and combo, Euro tart with fresh strawberries, I couldn’t resist. We were famished and for under eight bucks each, we indulged in their crepes, favoring savory over sweet with smoked Salmon, fresh tomatoes, cream cheese, capers, dill and lemon, and slow-cooked turkey, honey mustard and toasted almonds. That satisfied us at the time, but the frozen yogurt shop lured us back every evening for dessert for the rest of our trip.

Night-life dining in Old City District.

When David accompanied me on a business trip to New York in the fall of 2008, we ventured to Buddakan, a family-style, modern Asian cuisine restaurant, and I can still say that I had the best meal of my life there. When we discovered that Buddakan (325 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106, 215.574.9440) was also in Philadelphia, we immediately made reservations. We ordered Asian Cesar salad with spicy cashews, pork pot stickers with Chinese red vinegar dipping sauce, lobster fried rice with saffron and Thai basil, wasabi mashed potatoes with wasabi crème fraiche and chives, barbecue pork tenderloin with Chinese broccoli and giant panko onion rings, and miso black cod with bok choy, shitake musrooms, and unagi sauce. Our experience in New York, unfortunately, was not replicated in Philadelphia. The lobster fried rice and miso black cod – tender and melted in our mouths – were memorable on the palate, but everything else was just okay. Still, it might be a matter of making curated selections in order to meet our high expectations.

Empanadas at Cuba Libre.

Happily, on our last night in Philadelphia we celebrated our great family vacation with a wonderfully flavorful dinner. The Sugarcube shop owner recommended Continental, but it didn’t seem like a family-friendly restaurant. We walked around that part of Old City District and came upon Cuba Libre Restaurant & Bar (10 South 2nd Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106, 215.627.0666), which is billed as being dedicated to a “continued exploration of Cuban heritage, art, music, flavors, and traditions.” The tropical décor was complemented by upbeat Latin music, and concept chef/partner, Guillermo Pernot, created a savory menu of “Nuevo Cubano” dishes or tapas.

Honey-glazed short ribs.

Everything looked great and we knew any tapas we ordered would deliver an explosion of flavor. We opted for crispy plantain chips dipped into the Guacamole Cubano (avocado, grilled golden pineapple, roasted jalapeños, fresh lime juice, and extra virgin olive oil). Isabella’s favorite was the steamed Prince Edward Island mussels poached in lobster broth and roasted garlic. The Berkshire pork belly, which was slow roasted in a honey-soy glaze for 12 hours, was nestled in caramelized onions, steamed kale, and slow-roasted tomatoes. The popular Cuban staple, yuca root, not a favorite among us, was prepared as yuca fries with cilantro-caper aioli. The guava-glazed BBQ ribs came with jicama-sambal slaw. Our waiter recommended Mama Amelia’s empanadas of hand-chopped chicken, corn, and Jack cheese with aji-sour cream dipping sauce, which did not disappoint. We adults washed the food down with red sangria, a hearty mix of Porton Pisco, Malbec, blood orange puree, and seasonal fruit. I’ll be trying out Cuban cuisine in my backyard, now that I know how good it can be.

The food we eat on our vacation is an part of our experience and memories. It connects us to the places we want to learn about and embrace. If you ever stop by one of these restaurants, let me know what you thought – and pass it on.

Yuca fries and aioli dipping sauce.

Interacting with Philly’s hands-on museums

Posted on September 3, 2014 by Patty

Equipped with his five senses, man explores the universe around him and calls the adventure science.
– Edwin Powell Hubble, American astronomer and one of the most important observational cosmologists of the 20th century

When going on a family vacation to a major city, we seek science and natural science museums, mostly for the kids’ entertainment, and in Philadelphia we visited some great interactive venues.

The entrance to the Franklin Institute.

The Franklin Institute: ‘having fun down to a science’
The Franklin Institute (222 North 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103, 215.448.1200), opened in 1825, is one of the oldest centers of science education and development in the U.S. Newly expanded, it has 12 permanent exhibit galleries, including a flight simulator, which David and Jacob gamely took on. The Circus! exhibit featured a look at how biology and physics enabled circus performers to swallow swords and fly from cannons; neither kid, however, ventured to check out the trapeze or cannon exhibits. The Ocean Soul by National Geographic featured renowned photographer Brian Skerry and his up-close-and-personal, bursting-with-color photographs of the deep sea and its creatures. Other exhibits included learning about how the brain and heart work and understanding the physics in sports.

A big statue of the institute’s namesake graces the rotunda.

Philadelphia History Museum: hometown history begins here
Not a science museum, but the Philadelphia History Museum at the Atwater Kent (15 South 7th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106, 215.685.4830) feels somewhat interactive because visitors are surrounded by more than 100,000 historical objects, art, and artifacts of Philadelphia residents past and present in this very intimate museum. Founded in 1938 and reopened in 2012 after a three-year renovation, it was set up to be the city’s history museum, chronicling its time from the 1680s to present day. Face to Facebook is an interesting exhibit featuring portraits of Philadelphians from the 17th to the 21st centuries and how they viewed themselves. The main gallery of the eight-gallery museum consists of a large map of the city and surrounding suburbs. The museum is also actively collecting stories from residents to further capture the history of this vibrant city.

Checking out the room-sized map of the city at the Philadelphia History Museum.

The Academy of Natural Sciences of Drexel University: ‘where science runs wild’
The Academy of Natural Sciences (1900 Benjamin Franklin Parkway, Philadelphia, PA 19103, 215.299.1000) of Drexel University was founded in 1812 and is the oldest natural science research institution and museum in the New World. This leading natural history museum is dedicated to advancing research, education, and public engagement in biodiversity and environmental science. Hands-down, this was one of the kids and our (adults) favorite museums in Philadelphia. Dinosaurs have been a love of the kids since they were toddlers, so the Dinosaur Hall, housed in the first floor, was the natural first stop.

Academy of Natural Sciences of Drexel University.

We love butterflies, so we hung out at the top floor, which housed the winged creatures’ exhibit, and spent quite a bit of time patiently photographing them (and jostling for position with other photographers, as well). Complementing the butterfly exhibit, which is permanent, is the Pinned: Insect Art, Insect Science exhibit in the Art of Science Gallery. Artist Christopher Marley created intricate mosaics of insect specimens paired up with specimens from the Academy’s Entomology Collection.

We were obsessed with the butterflies.

The Academy boasts 37 dioramas, which seem archaic in our technology-driven world. While most of them were put together from the 1930s to the 1950s, they still haunt, intrigue, and instill wonder. A fascinating video and side exhibit demonstrated how these dioramas were created. While many feature familiar animals such as lions, zebras, gorillas, antelope, and other animals from Africa and Asia, the extinct passenger pigeon diorama is a sobering reminder of how fragile our ecosystem is.

More butterflies.

One of our favorite exhibits was the Birds of Paradise: Amazing Avian Evolution, co-developed by the National Geographic and the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, which ran from May through Labor Day Weekend. The exhibit, which highlighted the groundbreaking research of photographer Tim Laman and Cornell ornithologist Edwin Scholes, transported us to the rainforests of New Guinea, where they painstakingly recorded, vividly photographed, and filmed the many different birds-of-paradise in their habitat, capturing such wondrous sights as their courtship dances. Laman and Scholes are passionate about educating the public about conserving the rainforests, home of these amazing birds, and the exhibit did a great job of teaching our kids the importance of protecting habitats such as rainforests and their inhabitants all over the world.

We didn’t catch every single museum in Philadelphia, but we sure did try. And enjoyed and educated ourselves along the way.

Another beautiful butterfly.

Philly museums: Rodin, fine art, and Dr. Albert Barnes

Posted on September 1, 2014 by Patty

Living with and studying good paintings offers greater interest, variety, and satisfaction than any other pleasure known to man.
– Albert C. Barnes, physician, chemist, businessman, art collector, writer, educator, and founder of the Barnes Foundation

A trip to any city is not complete without exploring its fine art museums. Philadelphia is blessed with many, and we were fortunate to view and admire the many famous paintings, sculptures, and other objets d’art housed within the city’s museums.

Looking at the front of the Barnes Museum from the side.

The Barnes Foundation
We weren’t allowed to take pictures inside the Barnes Foundation, which was established in 1922 to “promote the appreciation of the fine arts.” Founder Dr. Albert C. Barnes (1872-1951) grew up poor in working-class Philadelphia. He eventually earned his medical degree in at the University of Pennsylvania and made his money partnering to set up a pharmaceutical manufacturer. In 1908, he bought out his partner and launched the A.C. Barnes Company. His company produced Argyrol, an antiseptic silver compound that was used to treat gonorrhea and served as a preventative of gonorrheal blindness in newborns. Argyrol preceded the advent of antibiotics. The pharmaceutical company made him rich, and he sold his company months before the crash of 1929 to focus on his art collection and educational activities.

David catches us reflecting before entering the Barnes Foundation.

He began seriously buying art in 1912, relying on former schoolmate, painter William J. Glackens, to advise him and purchase artwork in Paris on his behalf. Barnes educated his factory workers, setting up reading and discussion programs on topics that included aesthetics and art criticism. With encouragement from his friend John Dewey at Columbia University, he established his foundation. He collected one of the world’s most important holdings of post-impressionist and early modern paintings, including works by Cezanne, Matisse, Picasso, and Renoir, and snagged major works by van Gogh, Rousseau, and Modigliani. He also purchased African sculpture, Pennsylvania German furniture, Native American ceramics, jewelry, and textiles, American paintings, Mediterranean and Asian antiquities, and wrought iron objects from Europe and the United States. He presented his collection as ensembles, carefully and purposefully arranged across several galleries.

Trees scattered around the Barnes Foundation.

Rows of trees bordering the Barnes Foundation.

The original site of the Barnes Foundation was at the Merion campus, where in 1922 Barnes commissioned Paul Philippe Cret to design the gallery, administration building, and residence amid a 12-acre arboretum. The current museum is at 2025 Benjamin Franklin Parkway (215.278.7100). Barnes’s collection was incredible, and I’m thankful that my local Philly friends recommended that I put it on our itinerary. The building itself is beautiful and it’s on the way to the Rodin Museum and the Philadelphia Museum of Art. My sister Heidi recommended the documentary, The Art of the Steal (2009), which chronicles the battle for the control of Barnes’s $25 billion collection. After his death, despite his will stipulating that his art not be divided and sold off, the Philadelphia Museum of Art took control of part of his collection.

The entrance to the Rodin Museum.

The Thinker at the museum’s front gate.

Another outdoor sculpture gracing the garden.

The Gates of Hell sculpture at the entrance of the museum. Many of Rodin’s standalone sculptures are modeled after the figures in these gates.

The Rodin Museum
Hailed as “the greatest collection of sculpture by August Rodin (1840-1917) outside of Paris,” the Rodin Museum (2154 Benjamin Franklin Parkway, Philadelphia, PA 19130, 215.763.8100), designed by French architect Paul Cret (1876-1945), opened in 1929. The “intimately scaled” museum, which has been newly restored, boasts Beaux-Arts architecture and is surrounded by French landscape designer Jacques Greber’s (1882-1962) formal French garden. Philadelphia native Jules E. Mastbaum, who was an entrepreneur and philanthropist, gifted his Rodin collection and founded the museum. The City responded, with more than 390,000 visitors its first year, enjoying Rodin’s sculptures both inside the museum and in the gardens. This is a beautiful museum all the way around – manageable and not overwhelming, with Rodin’s work nicely displayed.

The main gallery shows off the museum’s Beaux-Arts architecture.

Assemblage of Heads of "The Burghers of Calais," plaster 1926.

Assemblage of Heads of “The Burghers of Calais,” in plaster, 1926.

Andromeda, in marble, 1886.

Philadelphia Museum of Art
The Philadelphia Museum of Art is among the largest museums in the country, with more than 2,000 years of more than 227,000 paintings, sculptures, works on paper, photography, decorative arts, textiles, and architectural settings from Asia, Europe, Latin America, and the U.S. Rocky Balboa, from the movie Rocky made the steps leading up to the museum famous with his spirited sprint to the top and fist-waving before the view of the City. The museum is massive and we tried to see as many galleries as we could.

Outside the Greek Revival-style Philadelphia Museum of Art.

Detail from the Washington Monument at Eakins Oval, in front of the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

A special exhibit on Frank Gehry's vision for the museum.

The kids check out the special exhibit on Frank Gehry’s vision for the museum.

Today, actually, is the last day of special exhibit “Making a Classic Modern: Frank Gehry’s Master Plan for the Philadelphia Museum of Art,” which highlights internationally celebrated architect Frank Gehry’s vision for the renewal and expansion of the museum. Gehry is known for his “expressive sculptural forms of buildings,” including the Guggenheim Museum in Balboa, Spain. The exhibit includes a video of Gehry talking about his vision and large-scale models showing cross sections of the reimagined museum, which he and his team have been working on since 2006. The museum is currently raising funds to build it, which could take years.

Prestidigitator (Conjuring Trick), 1927, oil and watercolor on fabric, Paul Klee (Swiss, 1879-1940).

The Kiss (1916, limestone) by Constantin Brancusi (French, born Romania, 1876-1957).

The Kiss, 1916, limestone, by Constantin Brancusi (French, born in Romania, 1876-1957).

Portrait (Dulcinea), 1911, oil on canvas, Marcel Duchamp (American, born France, 1887-1968).

Portrait (Dulcinea), 1911, oil on canvas, Marcel Duchamp (American, born in France, 1887-1968).

The view from the top of the stairs of the museum, looking at City Hall from one end of Benjamin Franklin Parkway to the other.

Old City District shops: ‘independent by design’

Posted on August 29, 2014 by Patty

The neighborhood has been named one of the top 12 ArtSpaces in the U.S., ranked one of the hottest neighborhoods in Center City by fellow Philadelphians, and included in a list of top 10 “Undercover Stylish Neighborhoods” in the USA.
– Old City District website

Vintage shops dot N. Third Street and other nearby streets in Old City District.

My first trip to Philadelphia was in June 2011 as part of a women’s clothing retailer’s consumer focus group. We were flown in for a two-day event at the company’s headquarters, with a handful of us from the West Coast arriving a day earlier than the rest of the women. Our hosts treated us to brunch and then set us free to roam the city, supplying us with a pamphlet of recommended places to go in Philly, including shops, restaurants, spas, and art and culture destinations. The women were not interested in historical sites, although we were in the neighborhood called Old City District, ground zero for America’s “most historic mile.” Instead, we zeroed in on shops.

More than three years later, knowing that we were covering museums and historical sites on our family vacation, I was looking forward to returning to the neighborhood and these shops. As you all know, whenever I travel to a city I like to check out one or more vintage shops and shops unique to the area. While we packed our itinerary with all things historical, science, and art related, we carved out time for vintage shopping, many of which were nestled in Old City District.

Colorful storefront displays reflect back old architecture and architectural details.

I’ll admit that I checked out a couple of places new to me that were highly touted but ended up being somewhat disappointing. Described as a “whimsical boutique and gift shop,” NeverTooSpoiled (106-108 N. Second Street, Philadelphia, PA, 215.928.0167) was south of shabby chic, with nothing really special about its wares. Barbara Blau Collectables (29 N. Second Street, 215.923.3625) was hard to find because a shop selling old books, records, and other items was the storefront. Turns out that the shop is in the back, but the owner was at a vintage show and wouldn’t be returning until end of the week, when I’d be long gone.

Find the glowing Sugarcube.

Inviting storefront.

Scattered storefronts along N. Third Street were empty, and a shopkeeper told me they didn’t survive the tough economic times just a few years earlier. Happily, I found two places still thriving. I had gotten a circa 1960s articulated owl pendant from Sugarcube (124 N. Third Street, 215.238.0825), a rustic shop that features American and international fashion, jewelry, and accessories with an eye toward timeless vintage. Besides its own private label, Sugarcube also features independent designers and microbrands, celebrating both established and emerging designers.

Indie brands at Sugarcube.

Shiny red motorcycle parked next to a vintage wooden ironing board. Of course.

Showcase dripping with jewelry.

I met both co-owners on separate days and chatted away with them while admiring the design of the interior and, of course, the jewelry, which is what usually catches my eye (and is easier to pack when on a trip). This time around I rediscovered Michael Hickey, whose reclaimed-vintage jewelry I had first stumbled upon at Feathers Boutique, a vintage shop in Austin, last year. He melds vintage rosary beads and found objects – horns, crosses, silverware, charms, keys, and so on – together to create jewelry that you could describe as hipster. Sugarcube is celebrating its 10th anniversary, a sign that they’ve been a stronghold in the neighborhood and survived a brutal economic downturn, which I was happy to see.

Fifty shades of shades.

Found it!

The other shop I remember and happily was reunited with was Lost + Found (133 N. Third Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106, 215.928.1311), where I ironically bought Jan Michael jewelry. While focusing on local artisans, I came away with jewelry from a San Francisco-based designer. This time around, while I spied more of her wares, I opted for practical reading glasses – cool plastic frames with a faux wood finish.

I didn’t have any time to check out vintage shops outside of Old City District. You could spend days in this historic mile and get your fill of art, vintage, and history. And they’re all compressed together. In trying to find one of the earlier stores, I turned a corner and there before me was Christ Church, an old active Episcopal church that was founded in 1695 and the place of worship for many Revolution Era leaders. One hopes that in time more storefronts will fill these old buildings. But in the meantime, support these local independent shops!

More Michael Hickey reclaimed-vintage necklaces.

Reading glasses of faux wood.

Philly architecture

Posted on August 27, 2014 by Patty

Among the most noted public institutions… is [the] Public Buildings [City Hall], we have told but little of the gigantic marble pile itself bearing this designation. It is, in truth, Philadelphia’s modern architectural moment – the largest edifice for municipal purposes in the world. Its tower, when completed, will rank as the third highest edifice in the world, the Washington Monument and the Eiffel Tower at Paris being the other and taller structures. Certainly no city in the United States has anything to show in comparison with it.
– regarding the first stone of the foundation of City Hall, laid on August 12, 1872, from Illustrated Philadelphia, Its Wealth and Industries, 2nd ed. (1889), pp. 96-97

Cloud, sky, and National Mechanics building on S. Third Street, Old City District.

The first settlers arrived in the Philadelphia area in the 17th century and lived in log dwellings. By the 18th century, bricks replaced logs as building materials. Georgian architecture – boxy, 1-2 stories, symmetrical, paneled front door in the center of the building, multi-paned rectangular windows, and decorative moldings – became the norm. But it shared the cityscape with Federal style, which is characterized by plain, smooth, and flat surfaces and rarely used pilasters.

The front of the National Mechanics Building.

Thomas Jefferson introduced Greek Revival to the U.S., and its influence was seen in buildings built in the beginning of the 19th century. As its name implies, Greek Revival imitated Greek designs and ornamented details. Majestic facades, porticoes, and heavy pilasters graced buildings of this time period. In the latter half of the 19th century, Victorian architecture prevailed.

Column detail.

David and I enjoy taking note of the different types of architecture that we see when we visit other cities and other parts of the country. We both like to photograph them as we wander around the city. I found the city’s architecture charming and I loved turning a corner in the Old City District and seeing a historic building or a row of older homes. Here’s a little sample of favorite architectural photos.

Another detail over a door of the National Mechanics Building.

Iron decoration on a fire escape.

Statue detail from Swann Memorial Fountain in Logan Circle.

City Hall with bronze statue of William Penn on top.

Detail from a column inside City Hall.

Detail from the Corn Exchange Bank.

Door detail on the Corn Exchange Bank.

Commercial building on Market Street with signage from the past.

Lit Brothers department store building on Market Street with signage from the past.

Window detail of Lit Brothers department store.

Façade of Lit Brothers department store.

Philadelphia boasts many statues and sculptures. This sculpture was made famous in the 1970s.

Appropriately, a flag shop is across from Betsy Ross’s house.

A row of Colonial homes.

One of many murals off Market Street, with lawn games for businesspeople and others to play after work.

Old Christ Church at night.

Market Street night life in Old City District, mixing historic with modern.

Philadelphia’s ‘historic square mile’

Posted on August 25, 2014 by Patty

Either write something worth reading or do something worth writing.
– Benjamin Franklin, writer, philosopher, scientist, politician, patriot, Founding Father, inventor, and publisher

Majestic Independence Hall.

One of the main reasons I wanted our family to visit Philadelphia was to touch and feel our country’s history. We spent every day of the Philly portion of our trip in what is called Philadelphia’s most “historic square mile.” The first recommended stop is the Independence Visitor Center (1 North Independence Mall W, Philadelphia, PA 19106, 800.537.7676), which opened in 2001. This destination is where you purchase tickets to museums, carriage rides, walking tours, and events. Two theaters and exhibits provide more historical context, and the information center, gift shop, bathrooms, cell-phone charging stations, and cafe fulfill the rest of your needs.

Independence Hall and Liberty Bell
Both exhibits are free, but you have to get tickets to get in. Independence Hall (520 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106, 215.965.2305), which is across the street from the visitor center, is called the centerpiece of the Independence National Historical Park and the birthplace of the United States. Here is where the Declaration of Independence was adopted and the Constitution was debated – over which George Washington oversaw – drafted, and signed. A nice stretch of lawn runs the length of the hall to the National Constitution Center, providing a place for people to hang out and protest and to take photos. Construction of the Georgian-style Pennsylvania State House began in 1732, but the building wasn’t completed until 1753. We walked through the hall, learning about the different branches of government (congress was upstairs and the senate was downstairs).

The room where the Declaration of Independence was signed.

The original House of Representatives room.

Liberty Bell, not too crowded but with feet!

As impressive as Independence Hall was, I thought the Liberty Bell was more meaningful for me, likely because it was right there before my eyes (though we couldn’t touch it, of course) and its symbol of freedom rang across time. I thought I knew the history of the Liberty Bell, but I really didn’t. Our Benjamin Franklin walking tour guide told us that he was giving a tour and happened to be near some German tourists who had exited from a short film about the Liberty Bell. He said he was surprised to see one of the men crying and he later came to the realization that he associated the country’s two dark moments in history – slavery and the Holocaust – and the Liberty Bell, with its crack, was a reminder that we came face to face with that ugly truth and keep the symbol front and center so as never to forget. Indeed, it is called an “international symbol of freedom.” The bell was hung in the State House in 1753 and served as summons for the Pennsylvania Assembly to work. It cracked in 1846. It was in the 1830s, however, that anti-slavery groups named it the Liberty Bell. The exhibit that leads you to the bell chronicles the different stories and times where liberty was fought for, including the issues of slavery, voting, even Apartheid.

Site of the first White House.

Foundation of the first White House.

President’s House Site
The most interesting thing I learned from the Benjamin Franklin walking tour called “Franklin’s Footsteps” (215.389.8687) was the story of the building of the visitor center. About eight years ago, the site of the first President’s House was discovered when the grounds were being torn up. Further excavation revealed the foundation of the home. But the most astounding discovery was documents and artifacts that exposed the enslavement of at least nine Africans during President Washington’s stay there. At the time, Pennsylvania was a free state and it was decreed that any slave brought into the state had to be freed after the sixth month. Washington skirted the law by sending the slaves back to Mount Vernon and exchanging them for new slaves. An outdoor exhibit features a glassed area exposing the foundation, flat-screen monitors of dramatizations of slaves living at the White House, and detailed timelines and storyboards.

Carpenters’ Hall hosted the First Continental Congress in 1774 and home to Franklin’s Library Company.

The National Constitution Center
The National Constitution Center (Independence Mall, 525 Arch Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106, 215.409.6600), otherwise known as The Museum of We the People. It is the first and only institution in the country established by Congress (and signed by President Reagan) to “disseminate information about the United States Constitution on a non-partisan basis in order to increase the awareness and understanding of the Constitution among the American people.” The “Freedom Rising” theatrical presentation introduces the birth of the Constitution and precedes the interactive and largest part of the center.

The National Constitution Center with the Mendoza Molar, our dentist and friend’s Flat Stanley contest to take a summer vacation photo with the molar.

The exhibit, The Story of We the People, is utterly fascinating, if overwhelming. This exhibit surrounds the centralized theater 360 degrees. A future exhibit on President Obama was currently under construction. The interactive stations provided background on issues that led to the Constitutional articles and amendments being drafted. This can easily take up an entire afternoon, if not day. It’s a lot of information to digest, but if you do deep dives on a handful of issues, you begin to appreciate the power of not only the Constitution but the notion of self-government. Again, I must say that I figured this was another museum where we would power through, but I found myself drawn to various stations, learning things about this precious document. I also couldn’t get the tune from Schoolhouse Rock about the Constitution….

“Slavery at Jefferson’s Monticello” is a sobering exhibit (through October 19th) focusing on, as the guide who greeted us said, a part of history that isn’t typically highlighted in a museum. But, he went on, it is an important part of our history that we all need to know – the disturbing paradox of Thomas Jefferson, who espoused liberty but remained a slave owner his entire adult life. This exhibit is a narrative of six slave families who lived at Jefferson’s plantation. Sally Hemings is the most well-known, but we also learned about the Fossett, Granger, Gillette, Hern, and Hubbard families and the stories of how their descendants fought to bring those stories to bear. Nearly 300 artifacts bring to life the world of these six families and their trades.

Carriage ride of the historic square mile over cloudy skies.

‘Franklin’s Footsteps’ walking and horse-drawn carriage tours
As I mentioned earlier, we took one of the several walking tours available. Our guide, Clark, was quite the character, and that’s not because he dressed the part. We were reminded of Benjamin Franklin’s greatness pretty much everywhere we turned. We toured the first post office, which he established. And a park dedicated in his name with a bust made of keys that were donated by the children of Philadelphia.

Benjamin Franklin bust made of house keys donated by children at a small open-space park, one of many in the city.

Christ Church against blue skies and billowy clouds.

Christ Church Burial Ground where Franklin is interred.

Christ Church and Burial Ground (5th and 6th Arch Streets) is a recommended destination point because it is the final resting place for Benjamin Franklin, five signers of the Declaration of Independence, 10 Philadelphia mayors, early medical pioneers, Revolutionary and Civil War heroes, victims of Yellow Fever, and Christ Church members into modern times. The cemetery was established in 1719 and more than 4,000 people are buried in its two acres. Only 1,300 markers remain, with some marble markers with illegible wording accompanied by plaques with original inscriptions. In 1864, Edward L. Clark, the warden of Christ Church, was thinking of posterity when he compiled a book of the inscriptions. From afar, the thin tablets look like ancient teeth. Because of the rain that fell that one day during our vacation, we had the burial ground almost to ourselves. By the way, grave rubbings are not allowed.

Trees tower above the soft marble tombstones.

Quiet stroll in the rain.

On our carriage ride, we were treated views to Washington’s Square, a six-acre open-space park. Before the Revolution, the park served as a burial ground for the African-American community and after the Revolution, it was the final resting place for victims of Yellow Fever epidemics. A monument to Revolutionary soldiers and sailors was dedicated in the mid-1950s. The Tomb of the Unknown Revolutionary War Soldier features a bronze statue of Washington and an eternal flame. It is not known whether the soldier was British or Colonial. It’s reported that an unknown number of bodies still remain buried not only in the square but in the area, which makes for interesting findings during construction and maintenance projects!

Washington Square’s monument to the unknown Revolutionary soldier.

The house where Jefferson penned the Declaration of Independence.

Our carriage took us by the house in which Thomas Jefferson penned the Declaration of Independence, which is a very narrow but tall brick structure. Our carriage guide informed us that fees were assessed by how wide your property was – but not how tall. Also, many of the charming colonial homes’ three stories represented the Holy Trinity. Many brick homes boasted window boxes overflowing with flowers and plants, brightly painted doors, basement doors in the front, and metal signs indicating that they were insured for fire damage. William Penn and his surveyor Thomas Holme designed the grid system and strategically placed public squares with wide streets. Penn had witnessed the damages to the London fires and wanted to ensure that Philadelphia, which means in Greek “brotherly love,” did not share a similar fate in case of fire.

Alas, we bypassed going into Betsy Ross’s house. Our guide told us that her son began telling stories about his mother, leading all to hear that she designed the country’s first flag. On the contrary, our guide noted, Betsy Ross sewed the first flag but did not design it. Somehow that was the deciding factor in just taking a photo of her house from the inside, especially when we had to decide what sites we could reasonably see in our time here.

Betsy Ross’s house.

Our zany guide, Clark.

We learned so much I’m sure I’ve not retained as much as I can remember. I leave you with this one funny story that our guide, John, told us. Atop City Hall is an enormous statue of William Penn, whom King George granted 45,000 acres in the New World for 16,000 pounds to retire a debt to his father. Penn didn’t want to name the colony after his father, but King George demanded him of it. At 548 feet, City Hall and statue combined was the tallest habitable building in the world from 1901 to 1908. Penn’s statue alone is 37 feet. A gentlemen’s agreement forbidding the Philadelphia Art Commission from approving any skyscraper to exceed the height of City Hall was defied when One Liberty Place went up in 1987. Up until that time, the City had enjoyed numerous championships by the Phillies, Flyers, and Eagles. However, after the agreement was broken – called the Curse of Billy Penn – all three teams experienced years of failure. In June 2007, a small statue of Penn, along with a miniature American flag and evergreen tree, were placed atop the newly built Comcast building, which then became the tallest building in the City. And in October 2008, the Philadelphia Phillies won the World Series – many players of whom we saw play just a few evenings before.

The 700-room City Hall with William Penn watching over the city.

The Dress at 50

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Category Archives: Places to See

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