Family vacation in France: Day 7 in Paris

Posted on July 14, 2018 by Patty

Oh Paris
From red to green all the yellow dies away
Paris Vancouver Hyeres Maintenon New York and the Antilles
The window opens like an orange
The beautiful fruit of light
(“Windows”)”
― Guillaume Apollinaire, French poet, writer, art critic, from Zone

Today, Thursday, June 21^st, was our last full day in Paris. It was Summer Solstice, which means Paris celebrates with live music and revelry in the streets across the city. It was Jacob’s 18^th birthday, which means he can now vote and drink wine in France, which is something that he did on a regular basis the rest of our vacation here. We also met up with friends from El Cerrito who were also visiting Paris at the same time. It was a special last day in Paris and summer day period.

Happy Birthday to Jacob, who turned 18 atop Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris! What a memorable birthday for you!

We got up early and returned to the Paris Catacombs, and we successfully got in with the second wave of entrants. “The ossuary known as the Catacombs was created in the late 18^th century in abandoned underground quarries dating from the 15^th century in the locality of ‘Tombe-Issoire.’ The first bones were transferred here from what was the largest Parisian cemetery at the time, the Saints-Innocents Cemetery, located in the ‘Les Halles’ district. The cemetery was closed in 1780, at the request of the municipality, due to concerns for safety. The Quarry Department, created by a decree of the Royal Council on 4 April 1777 with the aim of protecting and fortifying the Parisian subsoil, was put in charge of choosing and developing the site for the ossuary. Little by little, these former limestone quarries began to house the bones from all the cemeteries of central Paris, particularly during the urban development work carried out by Prefect Haussmann, up until 1860. Beginning in the early 19^th century, the Catacombs were opened to the public, creating a wave of curiosity that attracted a growing number of visitors.”

The Paris Catacombs – enter at your own risk!

After a descent of stairs, we enter the depths of Paris and its series of pathways.

Apparently, something happened in 1859….

The organizers of the ossuary were very meticulous about stacking the bones and skulls. I was impressed!

And they were very creative in how they stacked the bones, too, in the Paris Catacombs!

Something happened in 1787, too, at the Paris Catacombs.

I can attest to the fact that this is a very popular attraction in Paris. The tour route is quite long. You access the galleries via a staircase of 130 steps leading to 20 meters underground. These long, narrow corridors follow the paths of the streets above ground. It was a fascinating tour, with only a handful of people being let in at a time, which greatly enhanced the experience of exploring the underground. I’m glad we went, as strange an experience as it was. It was literally like looking at the history of Paris as if they were layers of sediment, given the years listed for various events.

Clearly, we were enamored with the bones and especially the skulls, at the Paris Catacombs.

How many photos can one take of bones and skulls? Apparently a lot. I curated carefully, at the Paris Catacombs.

After we emerged from the underbelly of Paris, we walked back to Notre-Dame Cathedral and finally got a chance to ascend the towers to catch yet another view of the city from above. Isabella especially appreciated the ascent, given her affinity for The Hunchback of Notre Dame.

We’ve seen city views from the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe, and now Notre-Dame Cathedral. It never gets old.

Another view of the Seine River and one of the spires of Notre-Dame Cathedral, Paris.

The gargoyle’s view from atop Notre-Dame Cathedral Tower, Paris.

What these statues have witnessed through history! Notre-Dame Cathedral Tower, Paris.

The gargoyle atop Notre-Dame Cathedral, with the Seine River and the Eiffel Tower in the background, Paris.

One last sweeping view of Paris from atop the Notre-Dame Cathedral Tower, Paris.

We wandered around the Island of Saint Louis, which was fast becoming my favorite neighborhood of our time in Paris. The shops were so colorful and quaint.

Quaint street of shops on rue Saint Louis en l’Isle, Paris.

Sweet shop on rue Saint Louis en l’Isle, Paris.

More quaint shops along rue Saint Louis en l’Isle, Paris.

Puppet shop! On rue Saint Louis en l’Isle, Paris.

My friend Laura recommended this patisserie and ice cream shop. It was always closed when we came by. So now it’s open and we had to try to many flavors…. rue Saint Louis en l’Isle, Paris.

We chose well with our ice cream flavors! At rue Saint Louis en l’Isle, Paris.

Remember this beautiful shop, Galerie Kara. We would return on our last full day from Versailles to Paris to get my “butterfly” earrings, rue Saint Louis en l’Isle, Paris.

Our last day walking on the many bridges over the Seine River and enjoying the beautiful trees lining the banks.

For the most part, Isabella and Jacob got along really well. They were best buds on this vacation. Sharing one of many moments on the bridges overlooking the Seine River, Paris.

Artful photo of the Seine River and colorful tables on the banks, Paris.

We met up with our friends, Yoko and Bruce Keilin, and their kids. Our sons were on the same traveling baseball team for several years, and Bruce and David were part of the coaching crew for the Hornets. It was really nice to meet up with them for dinner at Le Caveau de l’Isle (36, rue Saint Louis en l’Isle, 75004 Paris), where we had eaten a few nights before.

Yoko Keilin and me on the Saint Louis Bridge over the Seine River, Paris. It was windy and cold!

Sharing good wine with friends at Le Caveau de l’Isle, Paris.

Taking a picture of Bruce and David. You can see Yoko and me in the mirror, Le Caveau de l’Isle, Paris.

This salad looks familiar – it was delicious the first time, so I ordered it again this time, at Le Caveau de l’Isle, Paris.

David’s meat and potatoes, Le Caveau de l’Isle, Paris.

My duck confit and potatoes. I was spoiled with duck confit at the other restaurants, but this one was good, at Le Caveau de l’Isle, Paris. Very artfully presented.

Afterwards, we walked around the neighborhood to hear the music and see the sites. It was freezing and windy, which was quite the opposite of the night before when it was hot late in the evening! We didn’t stay out late because we ill-dressed for this kind of weather! We also had to pack up, as we were heading out of Paris in the morning. We said good night to the Keilins and returned for one last night in our AirBnB apartment in such a wonderful neighborhood in Paris. I was really sad to be leaving this bustling, lively city. I can’t wait to return, but other parts of France beckoned to us. Happy Summer Solstice, Happy Birthday to Jacob!

A popular music act that we stayed and listened to on Summer Solstice, Paris.

A lively Summer Solstice celebration outside of Notre-Dame Cathedral with the Keilin and Enrado-Rossi families.

Family vacation in France: Day 6 in Paris

Posted on July 13, 2018 by Patty

It took me time to understand my waterlilies. I had planted them for the pleasure of it; I grew them without ever thinking of painting them.
– Claude Monet, French Impressionist painter

There are many day-trip destinations from Paris, depending upon how you create your itinerary – Versailles, Chartres, Giverny. We had planned an overnighter in Versailles, but no such trip planned for either Chartres or Giverny. We decided to take a bus tour to Giverny. In retrospect, I would have included an overnighter somehow to Giverny. The bus tour roundtrip was longer than our actual time in Giverny, especially with the traffic getting back into Paris, and I would have loved to have spent time in the town of Giverny, where Claude Monet is buried and the streets are lined with many shops, including antique shops. Next time!

The print shop where we purchased our etching of the Paris park chairs. That’s Jacob and Isabella, and I’m peering in the window again.

We didn’t have time to stand in line for the Catacombs in the morning because we were off to a late start, so we walked around the neighborhood. We wandered into F. Charbonnel, a shop for engravers, lithographers, and woodcut/linocut artists, because we saw an etching of the park chairs in the window. We purchased the etching, an “aquatinte,” titled “Aux Tuileries” by Corinne Lepeytre. Aquatinte is an intaglio printmaking technique, a variant of etching. In intaglio printmaking, the artist makes marks on the plate that are capable of holding ink.

From the bus window, a view of the French countryside outside of Paris.

A medieval bridge that was bombed out during WWII, right before the town of Giverny.

After a quick lunch near the Louvre, we boarded our tour bus to Giverny, which took about 1.5 to two hours for the 50-mile trek. We got there about three in the afternoon. Once we got into the garden, we were wall to wall with other tourists. It was also very hot. The crowds thinned out after an hour or so, and we were able to enjoy parts of Claude Monet’s enchanting home, beautiful garden, and surreal waterlily pond. In 1883, Monet, his wife Alice, and their blended family of eight children settled in the pink and green farmhouse, and he spent some 40 years at Giverny.

Every imaginable color of dahlia was in Monet’s Garden.

A cheerful bright dahlia in Monet’s Garden.

I think this is an onion. Whatever it is, I love it and have seen it all over Paris. I’d love to grow this in my garden.

The grand alley that splits Monet’s garden in two and leads to his farmhouse.

Commemorating my painting as an undergraduate of the grand alley with a photo of me beside it.

I’ve long admired Monet’s water lily paintings. Seeing them in person at the Orangerie Museum takes one’s breath away. And being in his beloved garden – especially for this gardener! – was magical (once the crowds thinned, of course). At every turn, we came upon different kinds and colors of lilies and dahlias and flowers I’d never seen before. The garden is symmetrically laid out in beds. A “grand alley” splits the garden in two and sports arches of iron trellises with climbing roses all the way down the alley. I had to take a picture of this. When I was at UC Davis and thought I was going to minor in art, I took a painting class taught by the famed painter, Wayne Thiebaud. Our last assignment was the “imitate a masterpiece.” I immediately thought of imitating an Impressionist painter because I thought it would be easy for me to do, given that painting was a major weakness of mine (drawing is another story). At any rate, I chose Monet’s entrance – the grand alley – to his Giverny farmhouse. Needless to say, it was a disaster and it was embarrassing to put it up against my classmates’ amazing imitation masterpieces. I put down my brushes and paints after that class and didn’t pursue the minor. But being at the entrance of the grand alley, I surely appreciated the beauty Monet saw and the desire to immortalize such beauty with his paintings.

Even the outside of the farmhouse is colorful!

Selfie with Isabella in front of the farmhouse.

The house is pretty amazing – colorful, full of paintings and his beloved Japanese prints, homey yet grand. I loved walking through the rooms. I loved the yellow dining room and the blue kitchen. I loved the warmth of the bedrooms, and his study where I picture reading books and writing and being creative.

One side of the dining room – the hearth and more Japanese prints.

The cheery yellow dining area.

Paintings in the study. The walls are full of paintings.

Another part of Monet’s study. It’s an enormous room.

One of the cozy bedrooms.

A view of Monet’s Garden from a bedroom on the second floor.

After touring the house and the gardens, we took the pedestrian tunnel under the main road to get to the Water Garden. I think we all took a million pictures of the Japanese bridges, the weeping willows, the pond full of life and water lilies. We actually got some pictures without tourists in it, no small feat. I could have stayed here for hours, just sitting and gazing at the colors, the light, the reflections in the water. It’s very peaceful. We didn’t have much time for the entire tour, but I’m glad we came. The town and the gardens demand another visit!

Monet’s Water Garden. Almost no tourists in this photo!

Weeping willows, lilies, and water lilies.

Close-up of the water lilies.

The Japanese bridge in the background from our vantage point of another bridge.

A burst of pink flowers amid the water lilies in Monet’s Water Garden.

No tourists in this picture of Monet’s Water Garden.

Reflections of a brilliant sky and clouds in Monet’s Water Garden.

More reflections in Monet’s Water Garden.

Isabella in Monet’s Water Garden.

When we arrived back in Paris, we got tickets for the Batobus water taxi, which does a loop on the Seine, stopping at all of the major monuments and museums. This was something Isabella wanted to do. We caught it at the Orsay Museum dock and sailed through Saint-Germain-Des Prés, Notre-Dame, Jardin des Planties,Cité de la Mode, Hotel de Ville, the Louvre, and then we got off at Champs-Elysées in search of dinner in that area. We ate dinner at Le Ponthieu (51 Avenue Franklin Roosevelt 75008, Paris) since we were going to walk to the Eiffel Tower to take night photos. Isabella and I had confit canard, which was very good. Our poor waiter, who apologized for knowing little English – and we apologized for our lack of French – was running around waiting on all the tables. We were burning up, despite having our table near the open patio. It must have been in the 80s at nine in the evening! We left him with a nice tip for trying to take care of us.

An excellent duck confit and the best, creamiest potatoes au gratin ever.

Approaching the Eiffel Tower as the sun goes down close to 10 in the evening.

So many people were out taking photos of the Eiffel Tower at night. We took some amazing pictures and left before eleven. The taxis were charging exorbitant prices for the straight shot back to our apartment, so we stubbornly said no and walked the entire way. We walked mostly along the Seine to avoid traffic, but also to enjoy the people who were dining picnic-style along the waterfront and those who were dancing and frolicking at riverside restaurants. As I walked on, I kept thinking how I would have loved to have lived this kind of carefree life in my twenties! My feet were tired by the time we reached the Orsay Museum. We stopped on the wooden foot bridge so David could take more amazing photos of the Eiffel Tower. It was midnight by the time we got back to our apartment. It had to have been the hottest night in Paris for us thus far. But such weather allowed us to enjoy the very long walk from the Eiffel Tower to close to Notre-Dame Cathedral. I need to find out the distance so I can see how many steps we took! At least such a walk is burning the calories from all that good food we are eating.

The Eiffel Tower at night, with the half moon on the right.

Another view of the Eiffel Tower and the moon.

Looking straight up at the Eiffel Tower all lit up.

And now the family selfie with the Eiffel Tower.

The graceful curve of the Eiffel Tower at night.

One last picture of the Eiffel Tower before we head back home.

Looking back at the Eiffel Tower, with the moon rising.

One last look at the Eiffel Tower from the wooden foot bridge over the Seine River.

On the other side of the wooden foot bridge over the Seine is the Orangerie Museum. Good night, Paris!

Family vacation in France: Day 5 in Paris

Posted on July 12, 2018 by Patty

The last time I saw Paris.
Her heart was warm and gay.
– Oscar Hammerstein II, American writer, theatrical producer, and theatre director of musicals

On Tuesday, we ventured to nearby Saint-Chapelle, a Gothic church built between 1242 and 1248 for King Louis IX – the only French king who is now a saint. Saint-Chapelle has the most amazing stained glass ever. Words can’t describe what photos can just barely do justice. The first floor, or basement, was built for staff and commoners. The ceiling is painted with fleurs-de-lis.

The Gothic architecture of Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

Detail of Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

When you first walk into Saint-Chapelle, you are enchanted.

Assuming this is Saint Louis? At Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

Then you climb the spiral staircase to the Chapelle Haute and you are overwhelmed by the 15 separate panels of stained glass. According to Rick Steves, there are 6,500 square feet of stained glass, which is about two thirds of its 13th-century original. More than 1,100 Biblical scenes are depicted, from Creation in Genesis to the end of the world. Taken together, you really have to sit back and take it all in, after taking all those pictures!

Once you come up to the main floor, you will be floored by the stained glass.

More stained glass beauty at Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

Another view of the stained glass, Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

One of the 15 panels, Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

Another awesome view, Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

Close-up of the stained glass center, Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

Detail of a stained-glass panel, Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

After taking our fill of Saint-Chapelle, we walked quite a ways to the Musée Picasso (Picasso Museum), which houses the largest collection of his work in the world. We are talking some 400 paintings, sculptures, sketches, and ceramics. The day that we came, however, a strike in the City kept only a part of the museum open. We saw what we could, which included several studies of Guernica (1937), Picasso’s famous painting of a Spanish town experiencing an air raid during the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939). We saw the original Guernica painting in Madrid, but we appreciated all the studies that Picasso had done leading up to the painting. He painted the original in Paris. Picasso stayed in Paris for the duration of the Nazi occupation of France.

A study of Guernica by Pablo Picasso, Picasso Museum, Paris.

Study of a horse and bull for Guernica, Picasso Museum, Paris.

Another sketch for Guernica, Picasso Museum, Paris.

Painting and study of woman weeping for Guernica, Picasso Museum, Paris.

Another study for Guernica, Picasso Museum, Paris.

After a leisurely outdoor lunch at Le Trés Or bistro (9 rue du Trésor, 75004 Paris), near the Picasso Museum, we trekked back to the Paris Archeological Crypt to learn about the Roman ruins from Emperor Augustus’ reign, the medieval village plans, and diagrams of early Paris. It was quite fascinating, especially the touchscreen interactive displays.

Lunch at Le Trés Or bistro , near the Picasso Museum.

Whatever it was, it was good! At Le Trés Or bistro.

Enjoying the trees at lunchtime.

Family selfie time after going to the Paris Archaeological Crypt, which is near Notre-Dame Cathedral.

For some reason, we indulged in Jacob’s search for the Eiffel Tower Lego set. We did not see it at the museum store. So we walked for a really long time to get to the Lego store in Paris. David calls it the Lego death march, which was exacerbated by my foot pain. My right foot was perfectly fine fit in my Dansko sandals, but the thick strap bothered a bone on top of my left foot, hence the discomfort on this long trek. As fate would have it, they did not have the Eiffel Tower, but they ironically had the Statue of Liberty – perhaps it wasn’t so ironic after all. Jacob purchased it, and we began the long walk back to our apartment.

Appreciating all the fountains I come across in Paris. Trying to remember if this is the one at the park where I had to rest my feet on our long walk to the Lego store, where we discovered that they did not have the Lego Eiffel Tower but they did have the Statue of Liberty. Go figure!

We walked this wooden footbridge over the Seine many times during our stay in Paris.

After such a brutal late afternoon, at least we knew we were in for a treat for dinner. Taking up on another one of Laura’s excellent restaurant recommendation, we dined at Le Caveau de l’Isle (36, rue Saint Louis en L’Isle, 75004 Paris) on Saint Louis Isle, in what has become one of my favorite areas in Paris. Another great recommendation!

A quaint street – rue Saint Louis en l’Isle.

Le Caveau de l’Isle, 36, rue Saint Louis en l’Isle, 75004 Paris.

Always start a meal with a good wine…. at Le Caveau de l’Isle, Paris.

My shrimp/avocado/hearts of palm artichoke salad, Le Caveau de l’Isle, Paris.

Main dish of duck with honey sauce, Le Caveau de l’Isle, Paris.

Pear with dark chocolate sauce, Le Caveau de l’Isle, Paris.

Chocolate lava cake with creme anglaise, Le Caveau de l’Isle, Paris.

A familiar sight – Notre-Dame Cathedral at twilight.

Family vacation in France: Day 4 in Paris

Posted on July 11, 2018 by Patty

Eiffel Tower
Aviary of the world
Sing Sing
Chimes of Paris
– Vicente Huidobro, Chilean poet, from “Eiffel Tower,” The Cubist Poets in Paris: An Anthology

Today was another day of giving the ghost Fitbit a workout. Given that we didn’t get tickets ahead of our jaunt to the Eiffel Tower, we got up early Monday morning and took a cab to the Eiffel Tower. How many pictures can a family take of one of the most iconic monuments in the world? A lot, especially if two of us have an artistic eye, with David’s leaning toward the architectural appreciation of this famous structure.

The Eiffel Tower from below, with Jacob.

David’s architectural shot of the Eiffel Tower.

Another artsy shot from David of the Eiffel Tower base.

David’s shot of one of the legs of the Eiffel Tower.

Just a short history on the Eiffel Tower. Architect, bridge builder, and metals expert Gustave Eiffel and his company built the monument for the 1889 World’s Fair or Exposition Universelle to mark the 100^th anniversary of the French Revolution. I’m not surprised that it is the most visited paid tourist attraction in the world – an estimated 7 million visitors per year – although at the time Parisians considered it an eyesore. The structure was intended to be temporary, and it was almost torn down in 1909. City officials intervened, recognizing its value as a radiotelegraph station. During WWI, the Eiffel Tower was used to intercept enemy radio communications, relay zeppelin alerts, and help dispatch emergency troop reinforcements. During WWII, Hitler initially ordered demolition of the tower, but the order was never carried out. In addition, during the German occupation of Paris, French resistance fighters cut the tower’s elevator cables so the Nazis were forced to climb the stairs.

A selfie with Isabella and me at the base of the Eiffel Tower.

Indulging myself because here we are laughing.

On our way to the sommet!

From the summit of the Eiffel Tower, a view of the Architecture and Monuments Museum across the Seine River.

Another view of Paris from the summit of the Eiffel Tower, with the Seine River in the background.

The other side of the summit, a view of the Ecole Militaire and more of Paris.

From the Eiffel Tower summit, a view of the Seine River and Paris.

Of course, it rained lightly and was windy that morning. We were freezing, but as the day wore on, the sun came out here and there. We would return later to catch the Eiffel Tower at night. Once we exhausted our picture-taking and looking at the city from the summit (I admit that I was nervous going to the top, as I have fear of heights, I realized as we ascended!), we began our trek across the Seine River. We walked through the plaza of the Architecture and Monuments Museum. Every time we turned around, we had great views of the Eiffel Tower, so more photos were snapped.

The Eiffel Tower across the Seine River, taken from the plaza of the Architecture and Monuments Museum.

Seriously, I don’t do many selfies, but I couldn’t resist with the Eiffel Tower behind me….

Family selfie with the Eiffel Tower across the Seine River.

We walked down the Champs-Elysées, stopping at Café Belloy (37 Avenue Kléber, 75116 Paris) for lunch, on our way to the Arc de Triomphe. There I had my first confit de canard (duck confit) with potatoes au gratin. Tender duck and fluffy potatoes. Isabella was sold after taking a bite. She and I would order it at various restaurants to compare which restaurant had the best duck confit. Sometimes the first time is the best. Our waiter knew limited English, which was actually a good sign. Also, many business people were dining there, so we knew we weren’t at a tourist place, another good sign. After our hearty lunch, we made our way to the Arc de Triomphe.

My first duck confit in Paris! The meat was melting off the bone.

We climbed the 284 steps to the observation deck of the Arc de Triomphe. The height wasn’t as great as the Eiffel Tower, but we got great views of the Eiffel Tower. You can also see all the way down the Champs-Elysées A word about this other iconic monument: Napoleon had the Arc de Triomphe commissioned to commemorate his victory at the battle of Austerlitz in 1805. The Arc has seen a lot in its day – the funeral of Napoleon, the occupation by the Nazis, and the triumphant return of Charles de Gaulle after the Allies liberated France. The tomb of the Unknown Soldier is also buried here.

Across the street from the Arc de Triomphe.

French flag waving over the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier beneath the Arc de Triomphe.

A sculpture on the Arc de Triomph: Le Départ de 1792 (or La Marseillaise), by François Rude. The sculptural group celebrates the cause of the French First Republic during the 10 August uprising. Above the volunteers is the winged personification of Liberty.

Another close-up of the same sculpture.

Another close-up of the same sculpture on the Arc de Triomphe.

View from the top of the Arc de Triomphe.

The Eiffel Tower from the top of the Arc de Triomphe.

Looking down on the Champs-Elysées from the top of the Arc de Triomphe.

The Champs-Elysées and the Eiffel Tower from the top of the Arc de Triomphe.

From there, we walked the Champs- Elysées all the way to the Place de la Concorde, past the Orangerie Museum, to the beautiful and never-ending Tuileries Garden, home to fountains, pools, statues, flower gardens, and plenty of my favorite green park chairs.

The Place de la Concorde near the Orangerie Museum.

A fountain at the Tuileries Garden.

Statues adorn Tuileries Garden.

Light through the trees at Tuileries Garden.

People enjoying the day at the pool at Tuileries Garden, reclining in my favorite green park chairs.

And here are those beloved chairs in Tuileries Garden. We ended up getting an etching by a local artist of these chairs to remember our time in Paris’s gardens.

Birds and statues go together, Tuileries Garden.

Statue in a manicured part of the Tuileries Garden.

Close-up of a statue in Tuileries Garden.

All that walking meant that we had to find one of my friend’s favorite patisseries – Au Petit Versailles du Marais (27 Rue Francois Miron, 75004 Paris). Laura has given five-star recommendations for us in Paris. Her favorite dessert is the religieuse, so David and I had to try it, even though it looked very big and filling. However, it was light and fluffy, so that made it okay to eat every last crumb. Satiated, we walked all the way back to our apartment. Good thing I had sturdy, comfortable shoes with me. We rested up before heading out for dinner.

Enjoying a well-earned dessert stop at Au Petit Versailles du Marais (27 rue Francois Miron, 75004 Paris).

Rainbow colors for dessert at Au Petit Versailles du Marais, Paris.

We chose the chocolate religieuse. Hard to believe, but it’s not as heavy as it looks!

One of David’s colleagues who used to live in Paris recommended a restaurant, Brasserie Balzar (49, rue des Ecoles, 75005 Paris), that was a short walk from our apartment. As you can see, it was a delicious meal. Another full day with lots of sightseeing under our belt, monuments crossed off our bucket list (the kids said that the Eiffel Tower was one of the highlights of their France vacation), and good food consumed along the way.

Brasserie Balzar, 49, rue des Ecoles, 75005 Paris.

Our seafood starter.

Everything is tasty with a good bottle of rosé!

My Bar Meuniere, a lightly floured sole sauteed in butter with a bowl of potatoes. Jacob had rum steak, in the background.

I don’t remember what I ordered for dessert, but it was good. Isabella got her usual fondant chocolate cake.

Family vacation in France: Day 3 in Paris

Posted on July 10, 2018 by Patty

I am only good at two things, and those are: gardening and painting.
– Claude Monet, French Impressionist painter

Statues and architecture at the Orsay Museum, Paris.

The expansive railway station-turned-museum, inside the Orsay Museum.

More statues and the ever-present clock at the Orsay Museum.

We reserved our Sunday for more museums – Musée d’Orsay, Musée de l’Orangerie, and the Musée Rodin. While the Louvre obviously is impressive, the three museums we visited today were my favorites, with the Orsay Museum being my absolute favorite. This museum, a former railway station which boasts Beaux Arts architecture, takes up where the Louvre’s art collection ends, namely the Impressionist era. I can imagine coming to this museum on a daily basis for a month or more, just to enjoy and savor every painting, every detail. This museum is full of Impressionist (including post-Impressionist) big names, the ones I’ve learned about when I took an art history class in college – Monet, Manet, Renoir, Van Gogh, Degas, Cézanne, Gauguin. There also a great many wonderful sculptures.

I love the rendering of the plaid textile in Renoir’s Jeune femme a la voilette (1870), Orsay Museum, Paris.

Manet’s Berthe Morisot a l’eventail (1872), Orsay Museum, Paris.

Henri Fantin-Latour’s Narcisses et tulipes (1862), Orsay Museum, Paris.

Monet’s Madame Louis Joachim (1868), Orsay Museum, Paris. Look at how luxurious the fabric is rendered.

Detail of a sculpture, Orsay Museum, Paris.

Close-up of sculpture, Orsay Museum, Paris.

Detail of Rodin’s Gates of Hell, Orsay Museum, Paris.

Another detail of Rodin’s The Gates of Hell, Orsay Museum, Paris.

But I also saw some painters whose names are new to me – Pierre Bonnard, Maurice Denis, Edouard Vuillard, Felix Vallotton – and whose paintings drew from me astonishment, delight, and great appreciation.

The Muses by Maurice Denis (1893), Orsay Museum, Paris.

I love the textiles in Pierre Bonnard’s paintings, including The Game of Croquet (1892), Orsay Museum, Paris.

Winslow Homer’s Summer Night (1890), Orsay Museum, Paris.

Alexander Harrison’s La Solitude (1893), Orsay Museum, Paris.

Le Dejeuner en famille by Edouard Vuillard (1899), Orsay Museum, Paris.

Baigneuse rose by Felix Vallotton (1893), Orsay Museum, Paris.

Femme se coiffant dit aussi interieur by Felix Vallotton (1900), Orsay Museum, Paris.

Interieur, femme et enfants by Pierre Bonnard (1899), Orsay Museum, Paris.

A current exhibit is called Ames sauvages: Le symbolisme dans les pays baltes, featuring artists from Estonia, Lithuania, and Latvia whose works dated back 100 years or so. These artists embraced the Symbolist movement at a time when the Russian Empire was faltering.

Princess with a Monkey (1913) by Janis Rozentals of Latvia, Orsay Museum, Paris.

Nu (1906) by Janis Rozentals of Latvia, Orsay Museum, Paris.

Close-up of Estonian painter Peet Aren’s Aupres du lit du malade (1920), Orsay Museum, Paris.

Hiver (1908) by Vilhelms Purvitis of Latvia, Orsay Museum, Paris.

The upper floor houses the greats, and you have to get there early to avoid the big crowds that surround each masterpiece. We got there at the beginning, but by the time we reached the top floor, we had to share the paintings with a mass of art enthusiasts.

Monet’s The Garden at Giverny, Orsay Museum, Paris.

Renoir’s Girls at the Piano, Orsay Museum, Paris.

Monet’s Notre-Dame Cathedral at Rouen, our next stop after Paris.

One of the most memorable paintings that I remember from my college art history class – Gustave Caillebotte’s Floor Planers (1875), Orsay Museum, Paris.

Renoir’s Dance at Le Moulin de la Galette (1876), Orsay Museum, Paris.

Isabella and Jacob deeply engrossed discussing Impressionism. Not. Orsay Museum, Paris.

The rooftop view of the Seine River from the Orsay Museum, Paris.

I was going to post a self-portrait or Starry Night, but I really liked this painting by Van Gogh of two farm workers taking a rest, Orsay Museum, Paris.

Gauguin’s Tahitian Women (1891), Orsay Museum, Paris.

After lunch at the Orsay cafe, which was behind the massive clock that you see in and outside of the museum, we continued our walk down to the Orangerie Museum. This museum is located in the Tuileries Garden. Monet’s Water Lilies rightfully dominate large sparse rooms. You have to just stand there and take in all that saturated color under natural light from the eight huge curved panels, which Monet worked on “obsessively” for 12 years (1914-1926). Then you work your way downstairs to a collection of paintings that include Cézanne, Matisse, Picasso, and Renoir. This is a very manageable museum, likely best appreciated early in the morning before the tourists come in.

Monet’s Setting Sun, 1914-1918, Orangerie Museum, Paris.

Monet’s Clouds, 1914-1918, Orangerie Museum, Paris.

Monet’s Green Reflections, 1914-1918, Orangerie Museum, Paris.

Jacob and Isabella with an incredible backdrop in the Orangerie Museum, Paris.

Monet’s Morning no. 2, 1914-1918, Orangerie Museum, Paris.

Monet’s Reflections of Trees, 1914-1918, Orangerie Museum, Paris.

Detail of Monet’s Morning, 1914-1918, Orangerie Museum, Paris.

One of my favorite photos from our France trip – with Jacob doing selfie duties at the Orangerie Museum, Paris.

Bouquet of flowers by Renoir, Orangerie Museum, Paris.

Monet’s Morning no. 1, 1914-1918, Orangerie Museum, Paris.

We reversed direction and headed to the Rodin Museum, which is a mansion with an outdoor sculpture garden. The museum’s permanent collections reside in the Hȏtel Biron, built in the early 18^th century, where Auguste Rodin lived as a tenant. The museum was created in 1916, a year before Rodin died, on his initiative when he donated his works, personal collections, and copyrights to the French state, and was inaugurated in 1919. The poet Rainer Maria Rilke first told Rodin about the estate. When Rodin saw the hotel, he rented four rooms on the ground floor in 1908. At that time, the writer Jean Cocteau, painter Henri Matisse, and dancer Isadora Duncan also rented, but from 1911 on, Rodin was the sole occupant.

Rodin’s The Thinker under a brilliant-blue sky with equally brilliant-white clouds, Rodin Museum, Paris.

Up close with an outdoor sculpture, Rodin Museum, Paris.

Rodin has a way with imbuing such strong emotions in his sculptures, Rodin Museum, Paris.

Rodin is one of my favorite sculptors, so I was excited to see his works in France, especially as I’d seen a very nice collection of Rodin sculptures in North Carolina a few years ago. We were not to be disappointed, with the likes of The Kiss, The Thinker, and The Gates of Hell on display.

Bust of Victor Hugo by Rodin, Rodin Museum, Paris.

Detail of The Gates of Hell, Rodin Museum, Paris.

An outdoor statue at the Rodin Museum, Paris.

We did a lot of walking that day. It was Father’s Day, and is usually the case (family joke), we had to find a bad dinner to celebrate David. Two years ago it was a Subway sandwich shop in New York City. This year, a bad creperie place. The tradition continues….

As dusk falls, Jacob in front of Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris.

Family vacation in France: Day 2 in Paris

Posted on July 9, 2018 by Patty

As an artist, a man has no home in Europe save in Paris.
– Friedrich Nietzsche, German philosopher

On our way to the Louvre Saturday morning, we look back on the Seine River and see the tip of Ille de la Cite, where Notre-Dame Cathedral sits.

Approaching the Louvre.

A view out of the Louvre, looking down.

Given the size of the Louvre, we dedicated our second full day in Paris to this museum. My experience in the Louvre was not unlike that at the Metropolitan Museum in New York and the Prado in Madrid – overwhelming! I tend to curl up when the floors and connecting rooms are endless. So we tried to see what the kids and we wanted to see and leave it at that. For the kids, it was all things Egyptian. For David and me, it was the major works such as the Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, and the Winged Victory of Samothrace. It’s one of those times where you tell yourself you will have to come back when there’s more time – and no kids – so you can fully enjoy it. The crowds weren’t too bad. We got up early and walked to the Louvre, and enjoyed some beautiful sights along the way.

I did a selfie with me and the Mona Lisa, but sparing everyone here my selfie. Just Mona Lisa her glorious self.

Everyone and their smartphone cameras capturing Winged Victory of Samothrace, Louvre.

Jacob and Isabella surrounded by wondrous statues.

A quiet corner of the Louvre with a statue of a woman in repose. No tourists!

The architecture in the Louvre is outstanding. Ceilings are great to photograph when there are too many tourists, too.

Close-up of an Egyptian mummy at the Louvre.

Isabella will agree that we had the best Nutella brioche at the Louvre café, and lunch wasn’t too bad. All in all, museum food was pretty good. We all agreed that New York museum food is the worst. At any rate, we enjoyed the Delacroix special exhibit. I can’t look at Liberty Leading the People by Eugéne Delacroix without thinking of Cold Play’s Viva La Vida cover. David and I managed to battle the tour groups to get decent, some unobstructed, shots of the Mona Lisa. We also admired the beautiful statues everywhere. The Louvre took up most of the day, as expected.

A refreshing salad with rosé.

Salmon with potatoes au gratin.

Dessert, anyone?

Liberty Leading the People by Delacroix.

I admired the folds and the light in the sheets by this painting by Delacroix.

Bouquet of flowers by Delacroix.

Afterwards, we walked to Jardin du Luxembourg, a beautiful 60-acre garden in the Left Bank. I was enamored of the fountains and especially the green metal chairs that were occupied by people who were in leisurely conversations with one another, having a picnic of wine, cheese, bread, and charcuterie, or reading intently. Few were glued to their smartphones! And how could you not fully take in the beautiful garden.

Beautiful pool at the Jardin du Luxembourg in Paris.

Statue in Jardin du Luxembourg, Paris.

A replica of the Statue of Liberty stands in this garden. Originally, Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi, designer of the original Statue of Liberty, created a smaller version for the Exposition Universelle of 1900 and was subsequently given to Musée du Luxembourg. In 1905, it was placed outside the museum in the garden. It stood there until 2014, when it was relocated to the entrance hall of the Musée d’Orsay. What is now in Jardin Luxembourgh is a replica of the original scaled-down model.