Eiffel Tower
Aviary of the world
Sing Sing
Chimes of Paris
– Vicente Huidobro, Chilean poet, from “Eiffel Tower,” The Cubist Poets in Paris: An Anthology
Today was another day of giving the ghost Fitbit a workout. Given that we didn’t get tickets ahead of our jaunt to the Eiffel Tower, we got up early Monday morning and took a cab to the Eiffel Tower. How many pictures can a family take of one of the most iconic monuments in the world? A lot, especially if two of us have an artistic eye, with David’s leaning toward the architectural appreciation of this famous structure.
Just a short history on the Eiffel Tower. Architect, bridge builder, and metals expert Gustave Eiffel and his company built the monument for the 1889 World’s Fair or Exposition Universelle to mark the 100th anniversary of the French Revolution. I’m not surprised that it is the most visited paid tourist attraction in the world – an estimated 7 million visitors per year – although at the time Parisians considered it an eyesore. The structure was intended to be temporary, and it was almost torn down in 1909. City officials intervened, recognizing its value as a radiotelegraph station. During WWI, the Eiffel Tower was used to intercept enemy radio communications, relay zeppelin alerts, and help dispatch emergency troop reinforcements. During WWII, Hitler initially ordered demolition of the tower, but the order was never carried out. In addition, during the German occupation of Paris, French resistance fighters cut the tower’s elevator cables so the Nazis were forced to climb the stairs.
Of course, it rained lightly and was windy that morning. We were freezing, but as the day wore on, the sun came out here and there. We would return later to catch the Eiffel Tower at night. Once we exhausted our picture-taking and looking at the city from the summit (I admit that I was nervous going to the top, as I have fear of heights, I realized as we ascended!), we began our trek across the Seine River. We walked through the plaza of the Architecture and Monuments Museum. Every time we turned around, we had great views of the Eiffel Tower, so more photos were snapped.
We walked down the Champs-Elysées, stopping at Café Belloy (37 Avenue Kléber, 75116 Paris) for lunch, on our way to the Arc de Triomphe. There I had my first confit de canard (duck confit) with potatoes au gratin. Tender duck and fluffy potatoes. Isabella was sold after taking a bite. She and I would order it at various restaurants to compare which restaurant had the best duck confit. Sometimes the first time is the best. Our waiter knew limited English, which was actually a good sign. Also, many business people were dining there, so we knew we weren’t at a tourist place, another good sign. After our hearty lunch, we made our way to the Arc de Triomphe.
We climbed the 284 steps to the observation deck of the Arc de Triomphe. The height wasn’t as great as the Eiffel Tower, but we got great views of the Eiffel Tower. You can also see all the way down the Champs-Elysées A word about this other iconic monument: Napoleon had the Arc de Triomphe commissioned to commemorate his victory at the battle of Austerlitz in 1805. The Arc has seen a lot in its day – the funeral of Napoleon, the occupation by the Nazis, and the triumphant return of Charles de Gaulle after the Allies liberated France. The tomb of the Unknown Soldier is also buried here.
From there, we walked the Champs- Elysées all the way to the Place de la Concorde, past the Orangerie Museum, to the beautiful and never-ending Tuileries Garden, home to fountains, pools, statues, flower gardens, and plenty of my favorite green park chairs.
All that walking meant that we had to find one of my friend’s favorite patisseries – Au Petit Versailles du Marais (27 Rue Francois Miron, 75004 Paris). Laura has given five-star recommendations for us in Paris. Her favorite dessert is the religieuse, so David and I had to try it, even though it looked very big and filling. However, it was light and fluffy, so that made it okay to eat every last crumb. Satiated, we walked all the way back to our apartment. Good thing I had sturdy, comfortable shoes with me. We rested up before heading out for dinner.
One of David’s colleagues who used to live in Paris recommended a restaurant, Brasserie Balzar (49, rue des Ecoles, 75005 Paris), that was a short walk from our apartment. As you can see, it was a delicious meal. Another full day with lots of sightseeing under our belt, monuments crossed off our bucket list (the kids said that the Eiffel Tower was one of the highlights of their France vacation), and good food consumed along the way.
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