Family vacation in France: Day 5 in Paris

The last time I saw Paris.
Her heart was warm and gay.
– Oscar Hammerstein II, American writer, theatrical producer, and theatre director of musicals

On Tuesday, we ventured to nearby Saint-Chapelle, a Gothic church built between 1242 and 1248 for King Louis IX – the only French king who is now a saint. Saint-Chapelle has the most amazing stained glass ever. Words can’t describe what photos can just barely do justice. The first floor, or basement, was built for staff and commoners. The ceiling is painted with fleurs-de-lis.

The Gothic architecture of Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

Detail of Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

When you first walk into Saint-Chapelle, you are enchanted.

Assuming this is Saint Louis? At Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

Then you climb the spiral staircase to the Chapelle Haute and you are overwhelmed by the 15 separate panels of stained glass. According to Rick Steves, there are 6,500 square feet of stained glass, which is about two thirds of its 13th-century original. More than 1,100 Biblical scenes are depicted, from Creation in Genesis to the end of the world. Taken together, you really have to sit back and take it all in, after taking all those pictures!

Once you come up to the main floor, you will be floored by the stained glass.

More stained glass beauty at Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

Another view of the stained glass, Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

One of the 15 panels, Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

Another awesome view, Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

Close-up of the stained glass center, Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

Detail of a stained-glass panel, Saint-Chapelle, Paris.

After taking our fill of Saint-Chapelle, we walked quite a ways to the Musée Picasso (Picasso Museum), which houses the largest collection of his work in the world. We are talking some 400 paintings, sculptures, sketches, and ceramics. The day that we came, however, a strike in the City kept only a part of the museum open. We saw what we could, which included several studies of Guernica (1937), Picasso’s famous painting of a Spanish town experiencing an air raid during the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939). We saw the original Guernica painting in Madrid, but we appreciated all the studies that Picasso had done leading up to the painting. He painted the original in Paris. Picasso stayed in Paris for the duration of the Nazi occupation of France.

A study of Guernica by Pablo Picasso, Picasso Museum, Paris.

Study of a horse and bull for Guernica, Picasso Museum, Paris.

Another sketch for Guernica, Picasso Museum, Paris.

Painting and study of woman weeping for Guernica, Picasso Museum, Paris.

Another study for Guernica, Picasso Museum, Paris.

After a leisurely outdoor lunch at Le Trés Or bistro (9 rue du Trésor, 75004 Paris), near the Picasso Museum, we trekked back to the Paris Archeological Crypt to learn about the Roman ruins from Emperor Augustus’ reign, the medieval village plans, and diagrams of early Paris. It was quite fascinating, especially the touchscreen interactive displays.

Lunch at Le Trés Or bistro , near the Picasso Museum.

Whatever it was, it was good! At Le Trés Or bistro.

Enjoying the trees at lunchtime.

Family selfie time after going to the Paris Archaeological Crypt, which is near Notre-Dame Cathedral.

For some reason, we indulged in Jacob’s search for the Eiffel Tower Lego set. We did not see it at the museum store. So we walked for a really long time to get to the Lego store in Paris. David calls it the Lego death march, which was exacerbated by my foot pain. My right foot was perfectly fine fit in my Dansko sandals, but the thick strap bothered a bone on top of my left foot, hence the discomfort on this long trek. As fate would have it, they did not have the Eiffel Tower, but they ironically had the Statue of Liberty – perhaps it wasn’t so ironic after all. Jacob purchased it, and we began the long walk back to our apartment.

Appreciating all the fountains I come across in Paris. Trying to remember if this is the one at the park where I had to rest my feet on our long walk to the Lego store, where we discovered that they did not have the Lego Eiffel Tower but they did have the Statue of Liberty. Go figure!

We walked this wooden footbridge over the Seine many times during our stay in Paris.

After such a brutal late afternoon, at least we knew we were in for a treat for dinner. Taking up on another one of Laura’s excellent restaurant recommendation, we dined at Le Caveau de l’Isle (36, rue Saint Louis en L’Isle, 75004 Paris) on Saint Louis Isle, in what has become one of my favorite areas in Paris. Another great recommendation!